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The HOTEL BUTCHER, 

GARDE MANGER 

and CARVER 

By FRANK RIVERS 



w 



Suggestions for the Buying, Handling, Sale, 

and Service of Meats, Poultry and Fish for 

Hotels, Restaurants, Clubs, and Institutions 

An Expression of the Practical Experience of 
One Who has Spent Thirty Years in All 
Branches of Kitchen, Pantry and Store- 
room Work; Also as Steward and Buyer. 

The Book Supplemented with Gleanings from 
the pages of THE HOTEL MONTHLY. 

Copyright 1916, by Frank Rivers 







PUBLISHED BY THE HOTEL MONTHLY PRESS 
443 SOUTH DEARBORN STREET, CHICAGO, ILL. 



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To the Reader: 

If we are to work well, we must think well. 

This book may not accomplish all the prac- 
tical ends possible, but it is hoped it will help 
the reader to think and work along right lines. 

Those who think right may be best trusted to 
do right. 

I wish to thank and acknowledge my indebt- 
edness for information and courtesies received 
by me in compiling this book from the following 
firms and persons: 

The Morris Packing Co., Chicago. 

The Sherman Hotel Co., Chicago. 

The Hotel Monthly, Chicago. 

Mr. John Tellman, St. Louis. 

Albert Pick & Co., Chicago. 

W. M. Walker & Co., fish dealers, Chicago. 

Armour Packing Co., Chicago. 

Magner-Winslow Provision Co., Chicago. 

Irwin Bros., meat dealers, Chicago. 

Mr. L. Wilson, Harvey system, Chicago. 

J. L. Oxley & Co., veal and poultry, Chicago. 

Cohen & Co., Chicago. 

John G. Neumeister Co., Chicago. 

Frank Rivers. 



JAN 31 1917 

Ot A 455393 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER 8 CARVER 

SUGGESTIONS FOR THE BUYING, HANDLING, SALE, AND SERVICE OF MEATS 
FOR HOTELS, RESTAURANTS, CLUBS AND INSTITUTIONS— by Frank Rivers 



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INTRODUCTORY REMARKS 
I have made a life-time study of meats and 
the service of meat foods in hotels, restaurants 
and clubs, and have attained a degree of profi- 
ciency which has been commented upon favor- 
ably by my employers. I have been asked to 
write for The Hotel Monthly a series of arti- 
cles on this subject, to the end that my experi- 
ence may be of benefit to others. 

I have undertaken this task with considerable 
hesitation, for I realize that it is not easy to 
impart one's knowledge thru the medium of the 
printed page. It is much easier to give a 
practical demonstration in the butcher shop, 
so that all the senses of sight, smell, touch, and 
taste may be brought into play in imparting 
information. However, I will do my best, and 
hope, with the aid of drawings and photographs, 
to make my meaning plain. 

I ask the indulgence of my readers to pardon 
the lack of literary style. I shall write as I 
speak, and, to the best of my ability, in the 
language of the kitchen, so as to be more easily 
understood. I would say that I do not claim 
to "know it all." There are those who will 
differ from me along certain lines; but I am 
writing of things as my own judgment dic- 
tates—of how I have observed the work of 
many others, and selected as my way what ap- 
peared to be the best of their ways, supple- 
mented, of course, by my own initiative where 
I thought I could see a way to improve. 

No part of the chef's work is more important 
than the meat cutting and carving, yet it is the 
worst executed and least understood. Butcher- 
ing really is a part of the cook's work. Never- 
theless it is apart from it in many respects. In 
the large establishments they have a butcher 
shop with a butcher and assistants, and they 
do all the meat cutting, help with the carving, 
and the garde-manger work, in some instances, 
and prepare the poultry and fish. But this is 
only in the big hotels and cities, as a rule. 
In the great majority of places they have no 
butcher, and the work is done by the cook. 



Generally the chef does the butchering in hotels 
that do not employ a professional butcher; or 
he will have it done by one of his cooks that 
has a special fitness or knowledge of the work. 
But there is where the trouble lies. The aver- 
age cook has no special training or knowledge 
of the meat cutting art. 

To begin with the chef: Probably not one 
chef in ten (of American training) ever held 
a position as butcher. It is more than likely 
he started in as an assistant in the garde- 
manger department, or as an assistant fry- 
cook, or fireman, and worked his way up grad- 
ually to head fry cook; from that to roast 
cook or broiler, as those departments pay more ; 
and then as second cook; after which he has 
offered himself to the employer as a chef; or, 
as it often happens, he has been promoted to 
the place of chef, and has had himself so 
established. Now, you will notice, I have not 
credited him with any butchering work. That 
is because he has never had any special train- 
ing in that part of the work; and that is why 
butchering is largely apart from cooking. 

So it is, very few cooks have had any special 
training in meat cutting. He is a fry cook, a 
roast cook, or a second cook. The butchering 
is anybody's and everybody's work. But, in 
the majority of cases, it falls to the lot of the 
chef to do the meat cutting, and, as you may 
judge from the above recital, the landlord suf- 
fers a serious loss in consequence. 

Now in Europe they do things better. They 
have a system of apprenticeship from which are 
graduated cooks and chefs, and everything is 
taken into account. They apprentice to meat 
cutting and carving as well as broiling, frying, 
and the other branches. The profession is more 
highly appreciated in most European countries. 
There a father is glad to have his son appren- 
ticed to the bakers', confectioners', or cooks' 
calling, for which he pays a premium to learn, 
and gets value received. In America the aver- 
age cook has to learn meat cutting "on the 
fly." Occasionally there is an unusually am- 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



bitious and intelligent pupil, and he sees for 
himself that he serves a reasonable time as 
butcher in his efforts to become a chef. But 
he is the exception and not the rule. Every- 
thing considered, there is a crying need for an 
educational work on the subject I have under- 
taken to write upon. 

3|fr 3ft V 

As time advances, and conditions change, 
more is expected and demanded of the chefs. 
The last few years have witnessed a great 
change in the kitchens. The old-style American 
plan hotel is almost obsolete. New conditions 
prevail, and the cook mast meet and master 
the situation if he is to succeed. 

The present high cost of provisions will not 
permit of any waste on the cook's part; and 
the chef that cannot handle his meat supplies 
so as to obtain the maximum of returns and 



profits is carrying a big handicap that will lose 
him the race for preferment and success. 

You can have no better assistance than a good 
book of instructions. In writing this series of 
articles my object will be to increase your effi- 
ciency in meat cutting, and carving, and to 
explain the most correct and economical ways 

of handling the different meats. 

* * * 

With the advent of the European plan hotel, 
catering has become a more exact science, and 
the steward or employer is keeping a strict 
tale on the cook's work. It is so arranged 
that, by comparison of the different days' rec- 
ords, an accurate account is kept of the dif- 
ferent departments; and woe betide the chef 
that has been inefficient in the handling of his 
supplies. And, of course, in the meat cutting 
and carving' is where he can lose the most. 



BEEF 




CARCASS BEEF IN SMALL CUTS 



X X Knuckles Off. 
OOOO Lombar and Kidney Fat Out. 
A Four Vertebrae Off. 





Per cent Pr 


ice 


Amount 


1 Hind Shanks for Soup 


03.82 © 


.03 


= 11.46 


2 Rumps for Roast 


03.83 © 


.07 


= 26.81 


3 Rounds for Steak 


15 . 46 © 


.11 


= 170.06 


4 Sirloin Steaks 


09.00 © 


.13 


= 117.00 


5 Porter House Steaks 


08.50© 


.20 


= 170.00 


6 Flank Steaks 


01.00® 


.17 


= 17.00 


7 Flanks for Boiling 


04.10® 


.08 


= 32.80 


8 Short Ribs for Roast 


04.00© 


.08 


= 32.00 


9 Navel Flanks for Boiling 


4.47 © 


.06 


= 26.82 


10 Rib Roast 


03.50 © 


.11 


= 38.50 


11 Rib Steaks 


05.60 © 


.14 


= 78.40 


12 Chuck Steaks 


13.00© 


.11 


= 143.00 


13 Chuck Roasts 


10.00© 


.07 


= 70.00 


14 Briskets for Boiling 


06.00© 


.09 


= 54.00 


15 Shanks for Soup 


04.00® 


.04 


= 16.00 


Shrinkage 


03.72 







100.00% 



10.03.85 



CARCASS BEEF IN MARKET CUTS 

Per cent Price Amount 

Ribs 09.10 © 12.85 =116.93 

Loins 17.50 © 16.40 =287.00 

Rounds 23.11 © 9.02 =208.45 

Flanks 05.10 © 

Nav. End 08.47© 

Chucks 33.00 © 

Shkge 03.72 



9.79 = 49.92 
6.95 = 58.86 
8.58 =283.14 



100.00% 



10.04.30 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



BEEF HIND QUARTERS IN SMALL CUTS 





Per cenl 


: Price 


Amount 


Hind Shanks for Soup 


03.82 


@ 


.03 


= 11.46 


Rumps for Roast 


03.82 


© 


.07 


= 26.81 


Rounds for Steak 


15.46 


@ 


.11 


= 170.06 


Sirloin Steaks 


09.00 


@ 


.13 


= 117.00 


Porter House Steaks 


08.50 


@ 


.20 


= 170.00 


Flank Steaks 


01.00 


© 


.17 


= 17.00 


Flanks for Boiling 


04.10 


@ 


.08 


= 32.80 


Shrinkage 


02.72 









48.43% 



5.45.13 



BEEF FORE QUARTERS IN SMALL CUTS 





Per cent 


Price 


Amount 


Short Ribs for Roast 


04.00 


@ 


.08 


= 32.00 


Nav. Flanks for Boiling 


04.47 


@ 


.06 


= 26.82 


Rib Roasts 


03.50 


@ 


.11 


= 38.50 


Rib Steaks 


05.60 


@ 


.14 


= 78.40 


Chuck Steaks 


13.00 


© 


.11 


= 143.00 


Chuck Roasts 


10.00 


© 


.07 


= 70.00 


Briskets for Boiling 


06.00 


© 


.09 


= 54.00 


Shanks for Soups 


04.00 


© 


.04 


= 16.00 


Shrinkage 


01.00 












51.57% 



4.58.72 



Hind Quarters 
Fore Quarters 



Per cent Price Amount 

48.43 © 10.90 =527.88 
51.57 © 9.17 =472.89 



100.00% 10.00.77 

[The figures following the "key to carcass" 

figures are based on a carcass weighing 1,000 

pounds, and the "amount" figures can be read 

either for the percentages in pounds weight, or 

price per hundred pounds.] 

* * * 

Above we have a cut and test example of the 
beef in carcass and of hind quarters and fore 
quarters made for the United States Army 
department by Morris & Co., Chicago packers. 
It is worthy of close study, as it reveals all the 
different cuts and possibilities of a beef carcass. 
It may suggest to you new and profitable uses 

of beef. 

* * * 

Make it an object to lead the diners away 
from the low profit paying loins and ribs by 
selling to them the cheaper and more profitable 
cuts of beef. To accomplish this, you should 
be thoroly familiar with all parts of the carcass. 

A majority of the diners call for beef dishes. 
It is like "bread, butter and potatoes" in the 
respect that you may eat beef three hundred 
and sixty-five days in the year and not tire of 
it. You cannot say that for any other kind 
of meat. The chef that is posted on the dif- 
ferent cuts of beef has an advantage. He will 
have dishes that the unposted man knows noth- 




A RIB ROAST: 

"V indicates loin end, cut or slice. 

"2" The shaded part at the end of the rib indicates 
the coloring, which is a distinguishing feature of the 
steer. 

[The artist took liberties with this joint for the 
purpose of showing the color indications at different 
ages: thus, "2" represents at two years old; "3", 
at three years old; "4", at four to five years old, 
and "5" indicates that the coloring identification has 
practically disappeared after about four and a half 
years.] 

"6", cut severing bones (made by butcher). 

"7" indicates the button or gristly end of the ribs, 
which is a distinguishing feature of the steer, and 
is not prominent in the heifer. 

The joint rests on its butt end. 

ing of, thus giving him the added advantage 
of greater variety, which is an important con- 
sideration when you take the comparative abil- 
ity of cooks into consideration. So, if you 
hope to establish a good reputation for your- 
self, don't overlook the importance of initia- 
tive, originality, and variety. Don't wait for 
some one else to show you the way. Think and 
do for yourself. Every dish had to have an 

originator. 

* * * 

It is important that any one interested in 
the purchase of supplies should be a good judge 
of meats. This subject should interest the pro- 
prietor and manager as much as the steward 
and chef. Of course the stewards and well 
trained chefs are apt to know the fine points 
and methods of judging meats; but many of 
them do not possess the knowledge, and but a 
small per cent of proprietors and managers 
are competent judges of meat. Yet much of 
the buying in these days is done by the pro- 
prietor or manager, so that explanatory in- 



8 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




A STEER LOIN, showing vertebrae severed, and the "buttons" at the rib ends. The color markings 
and buttons on the loin are identical with those in the rib roast joint, but not so pronounced. (See illustra- 
tion of rib roast.) 



formation of this kind should be of benefit to 
them. 

Of all the meats used, beef requires the 
most attention and ability on the part of the 
buyer. There are well defined lines by which 
to judge loins and ribs, their age, sex, etc. The 
expert beef judge gets his information from 
the bone, mostly. It is true that the quality 
of a loin or rib is more or less self-evident: 
its size, grain, weight, and color show plainly 
its quality; but the ordinary buyer wants more 
conclusive evidence, and he finds it in the 
bones. 

In the process of cutting the loin and ribs 
the vertebrae have been exposed— split down 
the center— so that one-half of the vertebrae is 
left to one loin and ribs, and the other half 
to the other, and it is by being able to read 
the bones of the vertebrae that you can most 
surely determine whether it is a steer or a 
heifer, or a cow, and whether it is two years, 
three years, four years, or up to four and a 
half and five years of age. After that the age 
markings have mostly disappeared; but prac- 
tically no steer passes that age; only the cow, 
and you have no difficulty in placing her. 

In the steer loin there should be what is 
known in butchers' parlance as the "button"; 
that is, a white, gristly growth that forms on 
the end of the short-rib bones that extend from 
the vertebrae column at regular intervals, and 
forms what is known as the backbone. In 
genuine steer loins and ribs this distinguishing 
mark is much in evidence and readily distin- 
guished. With a little study you soon become 
familiar with the "button." In the heifer 
there is little or no button as we find it in the 
steer; and that is the Bafesl and best way to 
determine the sex. 



In judging age you depend on the same bones 
and reach your decision by the color markings 
of the split backbone. The heifer has little or 
no color markings on these bones, but is white, 
brittle, and glassy, and in splitting the loins 
apart the bone cut will not be smooth and even 
as it will be in the steer loin. You can readily 
notice a marked difference in this respect. 

The color markings in the steer loin are quite 
prominent and pronounced. The color is a red- 
dish brown, and varies in extent with the age 
of the animal from which the loin or rib was 
cut. In two-year-old loins the reddish color 
extends nearly the full length of the split 
backbone. When three years old the color will 
extend to about one-third the length of the 
backbone; and when it has attained the age of 
four years it is just barely discernible at the 
bottom of the button; and in its fifth year this 
marking will have disappeared, and the button, 
too, will have changed in all but outline. The 
above are infallible tests, and are employed by 
experienced meat dealers generally. 

In judging loins and ribs by the manner here 
given, you will learn the ribs are more promi- 
nently marked, and the markings remain one 
year longer in the rib than in the loin. In 
the rib the button is much more fully devel- 
oped, so it is in the rib that you will get your 
best and fullest impression of the button; and 
the same superiority is found in the color mark- 
ings of the rib over the loin. 

Another feature to be considered in the choice 
of your loins and ribs is that grain fed cows 
have a tendency to run to fat secretions (about 
twice as much in the cow as in the steer), and 
that fact has an important bearing on the 
quality of the steak or roast beef. It is owing 
much to this that the steer meat is so much 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Illustration of Loin Cuts, showing full cut, flat-bone and pin-bone cuts. (Oftentimes the retail butcher 
gets his porterhouse from the butt, shown in the illustration, extending from the pin-bone line to hip end. 
The genuine porterhouse steaks are cut from the section to the left of the pin-bone line, toward rib-end 
of the loin.) 



more juicy and palatable than that of the cow. 
Many judges give first consideration to the 
color of the fat in judging quality; and that 
is a good plan. Steer fat has a rich white 
creamy look, while in cows it tends to yellow, 
excepting in high grade pedigreed stock such 
as polled Angus, Herefords, and shorthorns. 
In such cattle there is not much difference • of 
fat color between the steer and the heifer. 

Prominent and distinguishing features of 
the cow loin is a comparatively high hip bone 
and the hollow. The hollow is a depression 
in the loin right over the sirloin strip. It is 
sometimes found in the steer loin also, but 

it indicates inferiority wherever found. 

* * * 

BEEF CUTS 

Of all the supplies used in the kitchen beef 
is the one that gives the proprietor the greatest 
concern. Many times I have heard the pro- 
prietor, manager, or steward say that the more 
beef served the more money lost. And that is 
founded very much on fact. Various causes 
contribute to this condition, primarily, faulty 
butchering and bill of fare prices. 

Another important consideration is that an 
overwhelming proportion of orders are for beef 
dishes; so it is incumbent on the responsible 
parties to exercise great care in the handling of 
beef. The chef should exert himself to lead 
diners away from the low profit paying beef 
dishes, which he can do to an astonishing extent 
by skillfully compiled menus. 

I believe that many proprietors have been 
remiss in their attention to prices; that they 
have failed to keep pace with the packing com- 



panies, and are serving sirloin steaks at from 
sixty to seventy-five cents that should be priced 
on the bill of fare at least $1.00. 

I am going to tell how I solved the steak 
problem in one place where I was chef. The 
advent of so many high class hotels and restau- 
rants, and the general adoption of the European 
plan of service during the past few years, has 
had a marked effect on the standard of cuisine, 
and we have, as a consequence, an increased 
percentage of high class chefs and cooks. Well, 
such men use high grade goods; and the one 
thing that the classy chef has a weakness for 
is a nice beef tenderloin. That is especially true 
of the Frenchman. He must have his tender- 
loins at all times, and they must be of the best 
grade. The dealers have adjusted themselves 
to the conditions, and began "stripping" choice 
grade of loins which they had previously re- 
served for sale in the entire loin. In so doing, 
they created a supply of high class "sirloin 
strips" for which they make a special price 
that redounds to the profit of the purchaser 
over high grade whole loins; and where care- 
fully selected by steward, or whoever does the 
buying, you can get a fine sirloin strip at a 
great saving in cost. Well, I took advantage 
of that, and for a number of years I used 
nothing else for sirloin steaks, and that, too, 
in a first class establishment. 

Of course, when this becomes generally 
known, the packer is not going to overlook his 
opportunity, and he will adjust matters so 
there will not be any financial choice to the 
purchaser. These strips of No. 1 quality, with 
bone in, at this writing sell for about twenty- 



10 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



two cents per pound, but there is very little 
waste. To demonstrate: Here we have a strip 
weighing thirty-four pounds; weight of the 
bone, five and a half pounds j weight of flank 
piece trimmed from strip, six and a half 
pounds; weight of suet, two pounds. This strip 
produces 20 one-pound sirloin steaks, making 
an average cost of thirty-seven and two-fifths 
cents per steak. Of course, in this class of meat, 
the most important question is who will use the 
trimmings of a loin, the butcher or the cook? 
The consumer pays in the long run. Then, it 
will be said, that you cannot always depend 
on getthig the best No. 1 sirloin strips. 

One important consideration to the cook is 
that it does not stock him up so much with the 
tr immin gs that cost, when bought in the whole 
loin, as much as the sirloin and tenderloin. 

With the European plan so general there is 
a more limited market for trimmings, and you 
are apt to get more than you can profitably dis- 
pose of. I know from practical experience that 
in spite of your best efforts you cannot always 
market your .trimmings, as the demand for 
goulashes, beef stews, beef pies, hamburger, 
etc., are limited to such an extent that, if you 
are using any considerable number of loins, 
you are very apt to lose out on the minor cuts; 
and that is where the "loin strip" comes in for 
important consideration for your pot roast, 
beef a la mode, rostbraten, etc.; you can buy 
that when wanted at a special price, which is 
much cheaper than when bought in the loin. 

THE LONG LOIN 

I have here on the block a long loin. It 
weighs ninety pounds, and I have paid eighteen 
cents a pound for it. 

I lay it inside up, and begin the work of 
cutting this loin by removing the tenderloin 
first. In disposing, of the tenderloin I first re- 
lieve it of its excess fat. Now, right here is 
where the majority of cooks go wrong. They 
trim away too much of the suet attached to the 
tenderloin. Incredible as it may seem, I have 
time and again seen presumably good cooks 
divest the tenderloin of every particle of fat. 
Nothing could be more misguided (except for 
braised or larded tenderloin). Your aim should 
be to leave as much of the suet as possible on 
the tenderloin, as it reaiK adds to the quality 
of the tenderloin steak to most diners; and it 
also adds to the quantity of steaks you will 
derive from the tenderloin. H you can work 
off two or three pounds of suet as tenderloin 
y<«u are that much ahead. Anyway, it makes 
a much better appearing and eating tenderloin. 

Some chefs are so particular about this that, 



in their requisitions for loins, they ask for 
"closed loins" in preference to the "open" loins. 
The meaning of "open" and "closed" loins not 
generally understood, I will explain that a beef 
animal has a habit of lying on one side, and 
the side next to the ground produces the "closed" 
loin, which is generally superior to the "open" 
or loin from the side that the animal does not lie 
on. One pronounced effect it has is on the fat. 
In the "closed" loin there is more suet, and it 
lays snug the full length of the loin, with the kid- 
ney firmly imbedded and attached. In the open 
loin the kidney is very apt to be detached, and 
the kidney itself, and its weight of surrounding 
fat, falls away from the tenderloin, which leaves 
the upper side, or "open" tenderloin, bare of fat 
for about two-thirds of its length. The "open" 
tenderloin will weigh considerably less than the 
"closed" one, too. So, as I said, some chefs are 
so anxious to have a fat tenderloin that they 
give perference to the closed loin for both pro- 
fessional and .economical reasons. Another im- 
portant consideration is that the open loin is 
not so desirable for aging, for the reason that 
the tenderloin, being partly bare, is exposed and 
becomes affected and tainted in the process of 
aging. 

In cutting an a la carte tenderloin, it is usual 
to give a steak of the same weight as that of a 
single a la carte sirloin (not more than a 
pound). Often they are cut somewhat under 
a pound in weight. In these days, when beef is 
so high, save an eighth or two if you can. 

The tenderloin we have here, after proper 
trimming of excess of fat and removing of top 
sinews, weighs ten pounds, and cut in standard 
size steaks, has produced nine steaks. 

In the illustration we have the tenderloin 
steak ready for the broiler. It is an even, round, 
and sightly steak, made so by having been 
wrapped in a towel and beaten with the cleaver, 
which is advisable in all cases for tenderloin 
steaks or filet mignons. Without that proce- 
dure you cannot achieve the trim, .symmetrical 




Small Tenderloin, or Filet Mignon. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



11 







Beef Tenderloin. 



and compact effect that is to be desired if you 
are to do the best work. In cutting the small 
tenderloin, or, as named by the French, "filet 
mignon," each chef determines his own latitude 
of range in weight and pieces. They range in 
weight from about four to ten ounces, and in 
price from fifty cents to $1.50, much depending 
on what the garnish is. 

Where the standard of cuisine is high and the 
bill of fare prices will permit, the thoro and 
particular chef does not include either end of 
the tenderloin for his choice a la carte tender- 
loin steaks or filet mignons. From the tail or 
small end of the filet he cuts from four to six 
inches as undesirable for steaks, and sets it aside 
for special purposes. From the head, or large 
end of the tenderloin, it is usual to discard about 
two inches, as it is unshapely, and interlaced 
with sinews. In most places, however, this may 
be utilized for steaks, and with the proper han- 
dling can be made acceptable. Remove the 
sinews from the large end, and by compressing 
and shaping with a towel the small end makes a 
presentable steak. 

In cases where the ends are not used for the 
better cuts, many uses can be made of them in 
the making of relishable, salable and profitable 
entrees. For instance, they can be used for — 

Tenderloin goulash, Berchoix 

Emince of tenderloin a la Grand 

Sliced tenderloin with fresh mushrooms, 

Excelsior 
Casserole of tenderloin tips, Hussarde 
Tenderloin ragout a la minute, en bordure 




A and B — Tenderloin Tips. 



or in any good way that suggests itself to you. 
B}^ this means 3 t ou can have an occasional ten- 
derloin entree at a modest price, which is apt 
to be highly appreciated by the diner. 

While dealing with the tenderloin question, 
and before proceeding with the remainder of 
the loin, I will here consider the tenderloin of 
commerce, by which I mean, the different ten- 
derloins for sale by the packing houses. 

The packing houses supply various grades 
and kinds of tenderloins at varying prices, and 
every chef or steward should be able to avail 
himself of any advantages offered. 

To begin: There is the "extra prime," that 
averages ten to twelve pomids, which, at this 
writing, is about thirty-five cents the pound. 
If you are to serve a first class banquet, at the 
consistent rate per plate, and with a filet mignon 
or larded tenderloin for an entree, that is the 
tenderloin you should have. Or, if you are em- 
ployed in a first class club or hotel where you 
can get the prices, it is the tenderloin you 
want. But you must adapt yourself to condi- 
tions, and, luckily, the markets offer you a 
varied choice, as the packing houses have them 
all the way from three to twelve pounds, and 
at prices varying from fourteen to thirty-five 
cents. 

The next grade, "extra" (weighing from 
eight to nine pounds), sells at around thirty 
cents per pound. Then you can get a very 
nice grade, weighing from six to seven pounds, 
at about twenty-five cents per pound; and so 
on down as they grade lighter in weight, from 
six pounds to three pounds, at prices of about 
twenty, eighteen, sixteen, and fourteen cents. 
It is up to the steward and chef to determine 
which is the most desirable to have, and he will 
be overlooking an important matter if he does 
not give this the proper consideration and ad- 
just himself to each particular place or case. 

There is still another kind of tenderloin, and 
one that is generally overlooked by the chef, 
which has great possibilities for utility and 
profit. That is the "tenderloin butt." They, 
too, come in different grades. There is the 



12 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Tenderloin Butt. 



No. 1, No. 2, and No. 3. You get in these 
meat equal to the full tenderloin as graded ; 
but you only get the large end of the filet, to 
the extent of about one-third of its full length. 
It is the most serviceable part of the tenderloin, 
however, and with a little skill on the part of 
the chef it can be made to serve nearly the same 
purpose as the full tenderloin; and, for many 
uses, such as special carte du jour entrees at 
popular prices, is preferable to the more costly 
full tenderloins, as they can generally be had 
at about six cents less per pound ; and if you are 
in touch with the big packing firms they have 
an unlimited supply. 




Tenderloin Steak. 



[The packers often make what I shall term 
a money cut, and I find that it is often made 
with the tenderloin. In boning the tenderloin 
they cut out a piece of the rump and an excess 
of suet at the large end of the tenderloin. It 
is no part of the tenderloin ; and when so cut it 
is the idea of the butcher to work off rump and 
suet at tenderloin prices, hence the "money cut." 
You will find tenderloins that contain from 
three-quarters to two pounds of this excess and 
foreign substance. If you follow my course in 
this matter you will register a kick whenever 

you can.] 

* * » 

T will now call attention to the "hanging ten- 
derloin." This cut is very little known, yet it 
can be had in big supply, as every beef animal 
furnishes its quota; and owing to the fact that 
there is so little demand for it, you can buy the 
hanging tenderloin for ten to twelve cents per 
pound. About the only people that are really 
wise to this tenderloin are the Jews. Part of 



this meat is found attached to the inside of the 
ribs, hanging in form of a curtain, and it is 
often called the "curtain steak." Another part 
is found hanging directly from under the kid- 
ney, and really is a continuation of the tender- 
loin proper, but in its detached condition is left 
to itself. In the hands of a skillful chef the 
hanging tenderloin receives due consideration. 

I still have another so-called "tenderloin" to 
speak of. While not really a tenderloin, the 
ingenious chef has so termed and used it. The 
packers call it the "chuck roll" or "chuck ten- 
derloin." There is a big supply of this particu- 
lar cut, as each animal supplies two rolls. While 




Chuck Roll. 



I would not advise the chef to call and use it as 
a tenderloin, yet I consider it well for him to 
know that this part of the chuck offers him a 
choice piece of meat at a low cost, say ten to 
twelve cents per pound. It lays under the 
shoulder blade, and in form resembles some- 
what a tenderloin; and when taken from heif- 
ers and good steers it is a very good "near" 
tenderloin. 

Now, if you want to excel in the economical 
management of meats don't overlook such op- 
portunities, for such are the means you must 
employ if you are to achieve the most, success- 
ful results. 

The steward, too, comes in for an important 
part for the thoro, efficient, and economical con- 
sideration of the market possibilities. In fact, 
that is his particular province; but, as these 
articles are written primarily for the chef, I 
am treating more directly with him. And after 
all, when all is said and done, it is the chef 
who has to make good. I would say here, that 
if this writing achieves the end I aim for, it will 
be of as much value to the owner, manager, or 
steward as it will be to the cooks. I know from 
personal experience that with the manager or 
steward, or whoever does the buying, it often is 
that a loin is a loin, a rack is a rack, a rib is a 
rib, and a fish is a fish with them, and they are 
inclined to underestimate, or entirely overlook 
many important points of successful and profit- 
able catering. They fail to give due consid- 
eration to grades, size, weights, comparative 
prices, etc., all of which are vital, and should 
command the strictest attention. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



13 




Illustrating model method of severing butt from the sirloin strip, flush with the hip bone, 
cut with this joint is to cut into the sirloin strip shown to the right.) 



(The faulty 



In buying get the maximum of portions with 
the minimum of quantity, and be sure that your 
system of fixing" prices is right. Different stew- 
ards and chefs figure on different per cent 
basis. For myself, I figure from a hundred 
per cent basis when making prices, that is, the 
raw material should bring twice as much as it 
costs; some proprietors are satisfied with less, 
some want more, but of course you cannot make 
any basis an arbitrary rule, and you will per- 
force be governed more or less by circumstances. 

In selecting ribs, racks, loins, and hams, size 
and weight should be carefully considered. No 
matter how much a rack weighs there are only 
so many bones in it, and, consequently, only 
so many chops are available. The rack that 
weighs six pounds will produce as many chops 
as the rack that weighs eight pounds, when of 
even cut, i. e., 9-rib or 11-rib cut. So save the 
two pounds if you can, and at the end of the 
month you will have a handsome balance in 
your favor. The same can be said for pork 
loins, beef ribs, and hams, not to mention other 
instances in a more or less degree. 

I am now to deal with the rest of the loin. 
We have removed and disposed of the tender- 
loin, and there remains the "sirloin strip" and 
"loin butt." In the simple operation of sep- 
arating the sirloin strip from the sirloin butt 
untold loss has been incurred because of ineffi- 
cient and faulty work. There are definite and 
well prescribed lines to be observed if you are 
to do the work correctly and avoid unnecessary 
loss; but my observation has led me to the con- 
clusion that it is the exception when it is prop- 



erly performed. And, after I have explained, I 
will leave it to the reader to guess how much 
needless waste is incurred every day in the work 
of butchering a loin. 

This calls for a lesson in the anatomy of the 
loin. 

The sirloin strip ends at the butt end of the 
loin, with what is called the hip bone; and if 
you are to get the full amount of the sirloin 
strip, you must sever the butt snugly along the 
end of the hip bone. (See illustration.) 

The sirloin strip is one of the most valuable 
parts of the beef carcass, and every ounce 
counts. It often happens that in making this 
particular cut the butcher does it in a hap- 
hazard, random way, and in his execution cuts 
away from the end of the hip bone and into the 
sirloin strip, thereby leaving a part of the steak 
strip attached to the bone mentioned, and to 
the same extent lessening the amount of avail- 
able sirloin, and consequent loss, as the part of 
the sirloin detached with the loin butt loses its 
value and goes with the trimmings to be used 
as a cheap stew, instead of the valuable steak 
where it belongs. 

By jabbing with the point of your boning 
knife you can readily locate the point of the hip 
bone, and from there continuing to follow the 
face of the bone with the knife's blade you will 
have no trouble in making the proper cut; but, 
like anything else, it requires proper knowledge, 
study, and attention. 

The next process is to bone the sirloin strip, 
and the object should be to excel in neatness, 
dispatch, and economy. The best method is to 



14 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Boning a Loin Strip. Completion of first process, showing the removal of the rib bones from the inside. 



begin from the inside of the strip. With a 
pliable boning knife, begin by detaching the rib 
bones, passing the blade snugly under those 
bones their full length, flush with the backbone. 

Having finished this part of your work, lay 
the strip on the block, outside up, and in that 
position detach the backbone part, using care 
to follow the bone closely, as there is a division 
in parts of the sirloin strip here, and any care- 
less work will cause the loss of this divided 
part of the strip, and lessens the volume of the 
st iip to that extent, and a corresponding loss. 

Now that you have the sirloin strip boned, 
place it on the block, outside up, and cut away 
the flank, leaving the strip about thirteen inches 
wide. Then beat with the cleaver, to flatten 
.■Hid level it; when it will be ready to be put 
away for steaks to be cul as ordered. 

The flank part cut from the sirloin strip, 
which weighs from three to six pounds, gives 
you a choice supply of beef for entrees. This 
pait if the beef i< especially nice for boiling 
when large enuf; or, you can use it to good 
advantage in feeding the help. 

# * # 

Every kitchen should be equipped with a 

weighing scale, as the scales play an important 
pari in the steak cutting. My experience has 
been that it is the exception, and not the rule, 
to find them in kitchen equipments. 



Test made at Hotel Sherman, Chicago, by the 
Full loin, ninety pounds at 18 cents = 



author. 
$16.20: 



ARTICLES Weight Per cent 

Sirloin strip 21 23.34 

Pot roast and flank 18 20 . 00 

Tenderloin 10 11.11 

Boneless butt 14 15 . 55 

Suet 15 16. 06 

Bones 12 13.34 

90 100.00 

Allowing ten cents per pound for pot roast 
and Hank, thirty-five cents for tenderloin, six- 
teen cents for boneless butt, eight cents for suet, 
and two and one-half cents for the bones, the 
sirloin strip in this test loin would cost thirty- 
four cents per pound. With the loin at seven- 
teen cents, the sirloin strip would be a fraction 
under thirty cents. This loin was used for the 
illustrations, and in standard hotel cuts pro- 
duced twenty sirloin steaks, nineteen butt steaks 
(one of which was cut from the butt end of the 

sirloin strip) and nine tenderloin steaks. 

# * * 

As the a la carte sirloin is cut to order, it 
falls to the lot of all the cooks to cut steak at 
times. In the afternoon the man doing duty 
has to cut any steaks ordered; and at night the 
nighl chef, or one of his aids, does it. So it is 
necessary that all cooks have a knowledg-e of 
proper steak cutting. It is advisable that the 






THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



15 




Second and finishing process of boning the sirloin strip. (Hand is shown lifting the sirloin strip that has 
been severed with the boning knife, leaving vertebrae and ribs exposed.) 



V^ tan ^7*r~^' -' ' '^ - "^M - -' ^, 






..(.-^v' ( 



-rfiS"-; 



'•;;*"'' 



^^^ 



m& 



m&gM 



w'lrJs 



'/'■■ 



m, 



■■&■? 



Boned Sirloin Strip. 




Sirloin Steak. 



16 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Sirloin cut double for Club Steak. 



chefs have posted in the kitchen a schedule of 
weights of the different steaks listed on the bill 
of fare. 

The generally established rule is that a single 
sirloin should weigh one pound; but you will 
find places where they cut them an eighth or so 
under a pound. 

In cutting a "Sirloin for two" the weight is 
fixed by the price it sells for. Different places 
have different prices, ranging from seventy-five 
cents for a single sirloin to $1.25, with a corre- 
sponding change for the different sized steaks. 
To cite an example : I will quote steaks priced 
on the bill of fare from the "Single sirloin 
steak" at ninety cents to the "Sirloin for four" 
at $3.50. 

You frequently will find that the next sirloin 
above ninety cents listed, "Sirloin for two," is 
priced at $1.70 or $1.75, and not twice ninety, 
or $1.80. You should consider this, and cut 
accordingly. The "Sirloin for three" next in 
line, is priced $2.50, and not $2.70, which is 
three times ninety. 

The Club sirloin, or "Sirloin for four," is 
] diced $3.50. or only ten cents discount from 
the ninety-cent basis. So, cut your steak in 
proportion to the price, as established in the 
place where you are employed. It is astonishing 
whal a variation of prices you will find in the 
different places, hardly any two alike. Some- 
body Biirely musl be paying the cost! 

Willi the present prices of steer loins, a sirloin 
Steak should sell for at least ninety cents or a 
dollar. Yon cannot follow any arbitrary rule 



in fixing prices, but this being such an impor- 
tant matter, it is advisable that the manager, 
steward and chef get together and come to an 
understanding and decision. 

First decide what grade of loin you can best 
use. You should be guided in this by the stand- 
ard of your hotel, the town, and the prices best 
suited to your establishment. 

After selecting the loin you are to use, deter- 
mine by test what it will produce, and fix the 
price on whatever basis of per cent you may be 
employing, whether it be fifty or sixty-five or one 
hundred per cent, or whatever may be deter- 
mined. Different managers and stewards figure 
from a different basis. By taking these precau- 
tions, you insure more accurate work, and every 
one concerned is apt to be more alive to his 
responsibility. It is surprising in what a care- 
less and unbusinesslike way this work is done 
in most places. 

I have before me now the a la carte bills of 
four first class establishments, all in Chicago, 
and all of about equal standard. One has Sin- 
gle sirloin listed at 70 cents; the next, 80 cents; 
the third, 90 cents, and the fourth, $1.25. One 
doubles the single rate for the double steaks, as, 
Single sirloin, 80 cents; Sirloin for two, $1.00, 
etc. Another reduces from the single sirloin 
basis, as, Single sirloin, $1.25; Sirloin for two, 
$2.00 ; Sirloin for three, $3.00 ; a cut of twenty- 
five cents per portion. 

One would naturally suppose that such a 
staple as a sirloin steak would be more uniform 
in price. There is inefficiency somewhere, and 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



17 




Split Sirloin Steak, for a 



Minute. 



the reason doubtless is that the meat question 
has not received the study and attention it 
deserves. 

A good method to employ in cutting the dou- 
ble steak is to make preliminary markings. For 
instance : You have an order for a sirloin for 
two. Mark off first a sirloin for one; then 
mark off the steak as it should be for two. 'If 
the order is a sirloin for three, measure off one, 
two, and three. You will find that a great help, 
and superior to the single measurement. 

The Sirloin for four calls for good judgment 
and careful handling, and you will find the 
above measuring a great aid. There are so few 
orders for such steaks, that the cook is not so 
familiar with its size, and he is apt to make a 
bad guess; but by marking off one, two, three, 
and four singles, he will not go far wrong. The 
sirloin strip is very expensive and cannot re- 
ceive too careful handling. 

The Sirloin for four is commonly called 
"Club sirloin." You first cut apart the steak ; 
then it is split nearly thru down the center, 
making two equal parts still joined together. 
Fold the two parts as joined, wrap in a cloth, 
and flatten some with the cleaver, when it is 
ready for the broiler. 

The sirloins already quoted are the standard 
ones, and are found everywhere. Now, I am 
going to speak of special sirloins. Of this 
class of sirloin steak, the "Sirloin a la minute" 
takes first place. (Some places list this steak 
under its English name of Split sirloin.) It is 
a great seller, and is becoming better known and 
more popular every day owing, not only to its 
own inherent qualities, but because it is pecu- 



liarly fitted to the European plan service that is 
now so general. It is a valuable steak from an 
economical point of view, too. You can sell it 
for nearly as good a price as the regular sirloin, 
and it requires but little more than half the 
amount of meat. And, as it is important that the 
chef should have a fair proportion of his carte 
du jour entrees that he can quickly cook to 
order, and thus avoid having too many dishes 
ready cooked (with a greater possibility of 
loss), the minute steak answers this requirement 
also. And it certainly is good to eat. 

In cutting "Sirloin a la minute" you first cut 
from the end of the sirloin strip a slice of steak 
about three-eighths of an inch thick, not cutting 
it quite thru, but leaving it attached to the 
strip by a fair margin of flesh. Then make a 
second cut of the same thickness, this time en- 
tirely severing the steak. Now spread the two 
slices that are joined, and flatten with a cleaver, 
at the same time scoring on either side. 

This steak should be fried in a smoking hot 
skillet with drawn butter, and served at once 
on a red hot platter. 

Sauce a la minute is served with this ordi- 
narily, and more especially when served by the 
French cook. But for myself, I have had better 
success in serving the Minute sauce on the side, 
and serving brown butter (without lemon or 
chopped parsley) on the steak. 

To make Minute sauce : After taking steak 
from frying pan, put in finely chopped garlic ; 
let brown fairly, then add a ladle of demi- 
glaze. As a lot of people dislike garlic it is 
best to serve the minute sauce apart from the 
steak, unless otherwise ordered. 



18 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Two-Minute Sirloin. 



This steak, when well produced, makes a big 
hit, as it is mother's cooking, in a way, being 
fried, and diners take advantage of this as an 
appetizing change from the regular broiled 
steak. A fair price for this steak is from sixty 
to seventy-five cents. It requires less meat than 
the regulation sirloin, and sells to better advan- 
tage. It can also be served in half portions, and 
priced accordingly. 

Other steaks of this order are the Two-minute 
sirloin and the Three-minute sirloin. These, too, 
are favorites and great sellers, and are good 
"cooked to order" specials or entrees. The Two- 
minute steak should be cut about three-quarters 
of an inch thick, and sell at from fifty to sixty 
cents per portion, price to be regulated by the 
garnish and grade. Cut the Three-minute steak 
thicker, and charge from sixty to seventy-five 
cents per portion. 

These steaks are best fried like Sirloin a la 
minute. Use your own judgment as to how they 
should be garnished ; but some kind of potato 
garnish is the best, as, for instance: 

"Two-minute sirloin with potatoes Albert." 
"Three-minute sirloin, potatoes O'Brien." 
"Three-minute sirloin a la Rathskeller." 
"Two-minute sirloin, special French fry." 
"Sirloin a la minute, Parmentiere." 
"Special sirloin, Hotel Metropole," or "Hotel 



Windsor," or whatever may be the name of the 
establishment in which it is served. 

By a proper use of these special steaks, you 
can help keep the diner away from the less 
profitable a la carte steaks. 

Right here is where a good sirloin strip can 
be made to play an important part. They are 
preferable to the whole loin, as there is not so 
much trimming to the sirloin strip. Should you 
have a big run on a "Minute sirloin" entree, 
you might have need of several strips ; and were 
you compelled to cut them from the loins, it 
would mean a lot of superfluous stock; so the 
sirloin strip of right quality is the ideal for 
these special steaks. 

Another special sirloin that can be used to 
good advantage, especially for the European 
hotel, is the "Half sirloin." 

This is produced by first cutting a regular sin- 
gle sirloin, then cutting it across into two equai 
parts. (See illustration of sirloin cut in two.) 
This steak is very desirable for the carte du jour 
"to order" entree, or "clip" special, and it can 
be served in numerous ways, for example : 

Casserole of half sirloin, Parisienne style. 
Half sirloin, saute, with fresh mushrooms. 
Half sirloin with potatoes au gratin, marrow 
sauce. 

Combination half sirloin a la Colbert, or any 





Half sirloin, split crosswise. The cut to the left, "A," is the lower, and to the right, "B," the top slice, 

The top is the choice. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



19 




T-Bone Steak. 



other way that may suggest itself to you. 

Before proceeding with the Loin butt, I will 
write further of special steaks; and, as next 
in order, I will take the "T-bone sirloin." This 
is one of the leading steaks, especially in the 
"West, where you find it in almost every restau- 
rant and hotel. It is a fine steak. In reality 
it is a miniature Porterhouse, but sells for a 
modest price. It is cut from the small end of 
the whole loin ; or special sized and graded loins 
are used for it. 

WTien buying loins for T-bone steaks the best 
is number 2 heifer short loins. For cheap 
restaurants it is, of course, necessary to use 
a lower grade loin. They are cut thru the 
whole loin, just as the porterhouse is cut, only 
thinner: — as a rule about an inch in thickness. 
This steak is a good seller and adds well to 
your variety of dishes. It, like the Minute 
steaks, is best properly fried, and is nice served 
with different garnishes, as 

Plain T-bone sirloin, potatoes Chateau; 
T-bone sirloin a la Seminole; 
T-bone sirloin, Chieftain. 

Grade the prices according to the loin you are 
using, but it should be a popular price, say 
from fifty to seventy-five cents. 

The "Rib steak" is another important steak, 
but, like the T-bone steak, it is better known and 
more popular in the W T est, and by the time you 
reach California, you find that it has practically 
replaced the "plain" or "small" steak of the 
East. 

The Rib steak is generally a cheap one, and 
can be used to advantage in many places, espe- 




Rib Steak. 



cially in popular priced restaurants; its big 
drawback being that it is not so generally known, 
and not a very good seller for that reason. As 
its name implies, it is cut from the rib roast— 
those grading No. 2 or No. 3. Generally the 
steak is cut with the rib bones in; but what is 
known as the "Spencer roll" is frequently used. 

To cut: Remove the back and chine bone, 
leaving the ribs intact. Cut to the desired thick- 
ness, sawing any obstructing rib bone. 

Some places make a specialty of a high class 
Rib steak and charge $1.50 for one, and $2.25 
for extra. For this a first class rib is used. 

The Flank steak is another comparative 
stranger to the steward and chef. It is that part 
of the beef coming from the flank lying directly 




over the "cod" of the steer, and of the udder 
of a heifer or cow. (See No. 6 in carcass dia- 
gram.) It weighs from one to two pounds, 
and sells at fifteen to seventeen cents per pound. 
The supply is rather limited, but, it being such 
a stranger, its demand is not very large, so I 




Three- Minute Sirloin. 



20 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



have never had any trouble in getting a supply. 
It is a separate and independent part of the ani- 
mal, and in form and shape somewhat resembles 
the shape of the flattened human hand with the 
-rain running lengthwise. For this reason it 
requires special handling on the part of the 
cook, and when used for broiling should be cut 
in oblong strips across the grain. But it is not 
at its best when broiled. It is best used as 
Rostbraten, potted or braised, as short ribs. 

I have in mind a restaurant that features a 
"Flank steak special" once a week, and for 
which it is famous. 

In character the Flank steak resembles closely 
the short-rib with its alternate layers of fat and 
lean, and for the person that relishes rich fat 
food, it is a favorite. It has an advantage over 
the short-rib in being somewhat more tender. 
It appeals to the chef by reason of supplying 
him with a novelty, and is a good seller at a 
popular price, and when well served, you rarely 
get a "kick" on it. 

Following are some favorite Flank steak 
dishes : 

Flank steak rostbraten with spatzel; 

Potted steer flank steak with noodles; 

Special flank steak a la Congress; 

Grilled flank steak with rasher of bacon; 

Stuffed flank steak a la Boniface. 

Another nice steak entree, suited to the high 
class European hotel, club, or restaurant, is the 
Rostbraten steak, such as is called 

Esterhazay rostbraten with macaroni, Nea- 
politan; 

Prime sirloin rostbraten, club style; 

Steak rostbraten Holland House, etc., etc. 

Cut these steaks same as for the Three-min- 
ute sirloin, from the sirloin strip. 

I wish to offer a suggestion to the chef here, 
that from personal experience I know, if fol- 
lowed, will snrely bring him compliments. 
There is a double purpose in so doing; one to 
avoid the use of French as much as possible, 
tlio other to present on the bill of fare dishes in 
as attractive and intelligible form as possible. 
For illustration, en a certain day we had for 
an cni pee 

"Contrafilet of beet' pique, Arlesienne." 

One hundred and forty people ordered lunch 
from thai hill of fare (1 am quoting/an actual 
instance), and nol one order of the "('out rati let" 

was sold. There I was, with an expensive entree 
left on my hands, and it was up to nie to dis- 
pose of it. So I thoilghl it over and decided to 
serve it again the next day. but under a different 
name. And 1 put il in English, and made it 
plain to the diner what the body and garnish 
of the dish was. I called it 



Larded prime beef sirloin with fried egg-plant 
and stuffed tomato. 

Well, you should have seen the result ! I not 
only sold it out, but I ran short of orders. I 
did not have time to trim, lard, and cook another 
sirloin strip, so I cut "Two-minute steaks" and 
finished the meal with those. 

I will cite other examples : Here we have 
"Filet mignon a la pompadour." That is Greek 
to the average diner. How much better to put it 

"Small tenderloin, bearnaise sauce and fancy 
vegetables." 

Fried pork chops "with candied sweet pota- 
toes, own gravy," in place of "a la provengale." 

Stuffed breast of veal "with tomatoed spa- 
ghetti and creamed carrots" in place of "a la 
Grimaldi." 

Calves liver and ham "with country gravy 
and mashed potatoes" in place of "a la Ray- 
mond." 

Braised fresh ham "with red wine slaw and 
browned sweet potatoes" in place of "a la 
Bohemienne." 

I could give you any number of examples, but 
the above express the idea. 

Down with the a la's. 

Make the above the scheme and rule of your 
work and you will be surprised at the compli- 
ments you will receive. It is my belief the suc- 
cessful American chef of the near future will 
use little or no French. 

PORTERHOUSE STEAK 

In selecting loins for Porterhouse steak, 
choose the pin bone short loin ; and, unless you 
are left handed, select the right hand loin, which 
is generally the "closed" loin, and makes much 
the best steak. The right hand loin is best for 
cutting, as the body is toward the butcher, while 
with the left hand loin the body of the loin is 
away from you, and you cannot hold the loin 
while sawing off the steak. 

The Porterhouse steak is the bugaboo of the 
chef. I would like to see it abolished from the 
bill of fare. From the diner's- point of view, 
however, there is no particular objection to this 
steak. In itself, it is a high grade, classy dish 
and has withstood the test of time. But it is the 
proprietor, steward, and chef whose interests I 
have paramount in these Avritings. 

The man who invented the Porterhouse has, 
no doubt, had more anathemas of censure hurled 
at him than any other living being. I said that 
the diner has no kick coming, but, on second 
thought, I must take that back, for often the 
man that goes to the butcher shop and buys a 
Porterhouse steak to take home for dinner gets 
Porterhouse in name only. The retail butcher 
nearly always buys full loins, and starts right 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 21 



off dealing Porterhouse ( ! ) steak from the large 
end of the loin (which is nothing more or less 
than "Butt" steak) till he has cut past the point 
of the hip bone where the Porterhouse proper 
begins. (The real Porterhouse steak is cut from 
that part of the loin formed by the sirloin strip 
on the upper side and the tenderloin on the 
nether side, and sliced thru the whole of this 
part of the loin.) So you see where he, the 
mryer, suffers an hi justice. Of course discrimi- 
nating judges can avoid that, but how many 
householders do 1 ? 

Right there is where the short loin is in favor 
with the hotel man, especially if he has much 
call for Porterhouse. As a rule, however, the 
Porterhouse is in small demand, but it is always 
in evidence. You will find it everywhere, over- 
rated as it is. Enter a little insignificant hotel, 
and you will find his majesty, the Porterhouse, 
installed, an everlasting source of loss, and a 
trouble to the chef; the proprietor, of course, 
footing the bill. 

In the big establishments, where they have a 
fair demand for this steak, and employ a pro- 
fessional butcher, it is all right. But in the 
small establishment you may go for days, yes, 
even weeks, without getting an order for one, 
and there is where the havoc is caused. Any 
one of a number of things may happen. You 
are apt not to have Porterhouse at all, for one 
thing, and be compelled to tell the patron that 
you cannot serve his order. Then it is possible 
that you may have a nice full loin left hanging 
in the ice box, and it is possible to cut the 
steak from it. Right here is where the chef is 
up against it. He must refuse to serve the 
order, or inflict serious injury to the loin. 

To secure the desired steak he has to cut his 
loin thru at the hip-bone point, tenderloin and 
all; and that is poor, wasteful butchering; for 
in so doing he has injured the tenderloin seri- 
ously. Could he dispose of the Porterhouse 
loin he now has, as such, it would be all right. 
But the fact is, he is not liable to sell another 
Porterhouse for days to come. We will say, as 
it too often happens, that he had poor refrig- 
erating facilities. That means he can only hold 
it a few days. But he does the best he can 
under the conditions. He saves it probably for 
a week. No more calls for Porterhouse. He sees 
that the loin is going bad, and is more or less 
badly affected, so concludes to use it up right 
away. He trims away the bad parts, bones it, 
and cuts it into salable steaks. Just about that 
time (I know from experience) a waiter ap- 
pears and says, "Chef, I want a nice double 
porterhouse for a party of four." 

Well, he has had his supply of loins renewed, 




Porterhouse Steak 



so he proceeds to mutilate another loin. Even 
in the best of hotel short-loins, as trimmed by the 
packing companies, the chef has to discard 
more or less of the loin end in order to secure 
an acceptable Porterhouse. 

If you are where they have a first class cooler 
and a reasonable demand for Porterhouse, you 
escape the above annoyance and loss; but such 
favorable conditions are the exception. 

Another consideration is the cutting of this 
steak. The Porterhouse is awe-inspiring to the 
average cook, and he is apt to overcut the quan- 
tity. It is rather a hard steak to cut, anyway, 
and it should be a well trained hand to cut an 
even and well judged steak. Often it is badly 
done, and will be about one and a half inches 
thick on one edge, and about three inches thick 
on the opposite edge. The saw was dull, the 
hand untrained, and the proprietor must stand 
the loss. 

The single Porterhouse should not be listed 
on the bill of fare, if serious loss is to be 
avoided. It is next to impossible to have it cut 
within proper weight and price limit where you 
are using the most expensive loins. 

The Porterhouse is not suited to single por- 
tion service; so begin with a "Porterhouse for 
two" at an approximate price of $2.00. It 
should be about one and a half inches thick, 
and weigh about four pounds. The next would 
be "for three," at, say, $3.00, and about half an 
inch thicker than the double one, and about two 
pounds heavier; the third, "for four," at $4.00, 
two and a half inches thick and eight pounds 
in weight. That is enough to list. Let the 
head waiter arrange for larger and special 
orders. 

In the modern cuisine, the Porterhouse has 
lost much of its popularity, and should the pro- 
prietor strike it off the bill of fare it would 
hardly be missed. 



22 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



HAMBURGER STEAK 
Every one knows about the Hamburger 
steak. Still, I feel I must pay it my respects, 
even tko it be more plebeian than the Sirloin 
and the Porterhouse. Dear old friend, you have 
helped me to make profitable use of many odds 
and ends that might otherwise have been wasted. 
As an a la carte steak you are about the lowest 
on the bill, but you are always there. Nearly 
all a la carte bills list Hamburger steak, yet it 
is a singular fact that an a la carte order for 
it seldom comes. It is as a modest-priced, ready 
to serve carte du jour entree that the Ham- 
burger steak is at its best. 

In the first class cafes the Hamburger is gen- 
erally made of tenderloin trimmings; but for 
ordinary service loin trimmings and such are 
used. Various methods are used in its com- 
position. The one most approved of and em- 
ployed is to thoroly free the beef of sinews, and 
to each pound of beef add one-quarter pound of 
lumbar (fat around the tenderloin) or kidney 
fat. Pass this thru the meat chopper, being 
careful to have the knives closely and tightly 
set; otherwise the machine will not do the work 
well, but clog up; and it must be tight to cut 
clean; or, better still, a Buffalo chopper. 

See that the meat and fat are equally dis- 
tributed. Add two cups of cold water to each 
three pounds of mixture. The water will con- 
tribute greatly to its juiciness and tenderness. 
Some add a panada of bread. Soak the white 
of bread in cold water; wring and mix with 
the meat at the ratio of one part panada to five 
parts of steak mixture. Then add about half 
a cup of minced and blanched onions to each 
pound of hamburger. Season and mix with one 
egg yolk to the pound, when it is ready for use. 
It is a good lunch entree : 

Hamburger steak with Lyonnaise potatoes; 
Hamburger and grilled Spanish onions; 
Braised Hamburger roll, Berlinoise. 

They should not be cooked too far ahead as, 
owing to their loose composition, they quickly 
lose their juices, and lose much of their palata- 
bility. 

SALISBURY STEAK 

The Salisbury steak does not differ much from 
the Hamburger. In cooking, the Hamburger 
steak is generally tried, while the Salisbury 
steak is usually broiled. In the composition of 
Salisbury steak marrow is used in place of the 
suet, and in the Salisbury mixture the onions 
are omitted, and the bread is best left out. 
Water can be used to advantage. On the whole, 
the beef should be of a choicer grade, as the 
Salisbury has more class, and sells for about ten 



cents more per portion. Some flavor with sherry 
wine. 

Following are some entree suggestions: 

Grilled Salisbury steak with bacon; 
Broiled Salisbury steak with French fried 
onions ; 

Combination Salisbury steak, cafeteria. 

CHOPPED STEAK 

There is another steak on the order of the 
Hamburger that is called the "Chopped steak," 
and it sells pretty good; and, as it can be quite 
useful to the chef, I will describe it : 

Select about the same grade of meat as for 
the Salisbury, and mix with suet or marrow. 
But, in place of grinding it, chop fine with a 
sharp cleaver, and add only salt and pepper. 
This is more on the order of "home cooking," 
and is preferred by many. Form this steak 
thinner than the Hamburger or Salisbury, and 
in cooking fry to order, as "Sirloin a la minute." 

Chopped steak suggestions: 

Chopped beefsteak sandwich, chili sauce; 
Chopped beefsteak with mashed potatoes; 
Chopped steak with marrow and scalloped 
potatoes. 

BRESLAUER STEAK 

A nice chopped steak is what is known as 
the Breslauer steak. It is composed of one- 
half veal and the other half of fresh pork, 
chopped fine, seasoned and moulded into steaks. 
It may be broiled or fried and garnished in a 
variety of ways: 

Grilled Breslauer steak with bacon; 
Breslauer steak with Italian prunes; 
Steak Breslauer style, fresh mushroom sauce; 
Breslauer steak with potatoes O'Brien; 
These make a suitable and profitable disposi- 
tion of veal and pork trimmings. 

MARROW 

As it is not generally known, I will say that 
marrow can be had of the packing houses at 
about fifteen to twenty cents per pound. They 
supply it in what they call "marrow sticks," 
that is, the marrow extracted from the bone in 
its natural form in sticks about five or six 
inches long. It is well to know this, as marrow 
is very useful to the chef, and can be kept a 
long time in a strong solution of salt water. 
The salt water whitens and improves it. 

SPINAL MARROW OR SPINAL CORD 

The "spinal marrow" or cord is very little 
used. It is the narrow cord found in the ver- 
tebrae of the beef carcass. In food value 
it is about the same as brains. It has a de- 
licious taste, and makes an appetizing and 
novel entree served as "Croustade of spinal 
marrow, Gastronome." It is nice as a garnish 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



23 



for "Fancy filet mignon," and as a soup, 
"Bisque of marrow, Epicurean." 

STEAK A LA TARTARE 
Tartare steak is another chopped steak, and 
you find it on a majority of a la carte bills of 
fare. It is so seldom called for, however, that- 
many cooks are "up in the air" when they get 
an order for it, never having served it, even 
after years of service as cook. 

This steak is served raw, and should be made 
of tenderloin. Chop the meat finely, season with 
salt and pepper, rather highly. Add some fine 
chopped onions, and bind with a little egg yolk. 
Mold for platter service. Indent the center 
and in the hollow so made place an unbroken 
raw egg yolk. Garnish with lettuce leaf, scat- 
tered capers, onion rings soaked in vinegar, and 
fancy cuts of spiced beets and pickles. 

CHATEAUBRIAND STEAK 

The Chateaubriand steak is an aristocrat, and 
is listed on most all a la carte bills. It is a 
double tenderloin served for two, three, or four. 
In price it ranges from $2.50 to $5.00, depend- 
ing on the size and garnish. Only one Chateau- 
briand is listed, as a rule, and is named after 




Chateaubriand Tenderloin. 



the house, as "Chateaubriand, Tip Top Inn," 
$3.50; "Chateaubriand, Blackstone," $4.00. 
The above quoted bills list but the one Cha- 
teaubriand steak and the service is for four. 
The garnish varies with the different establish- 
ments, and generally consists of a rich sauce, 
fresh mushrooms, and fancy vegetables. Some 
places list two or three sizes with varying prices 
and garnishes, such as "March and du vin," 
"Beamaise," or "fresh mushrooms." 

In cutting the Chateaubriaud for two it 
should be cut to weigh one and a half pounds; 



for three, two and a quarter pounds; for four, 
three pounds; and to be at its best it should be 
taken from the "heart" or center of the tender- 
loin strip. 

RUMP STEAK 
The rump, or aitchbone, is that part of the 
carcass marked No. 2 in the diagram. It is a 
choice, tender piece of beef, and makes a steak 
suitable for rostbraten, or old-fashioned plain 
steak. It is also suitable for a family roast, and 




Rump Steak. 



for boiling. But, being in such small demand, 
the packers have been compelled to consign it 
mostly to the corned beef barrel. And there it is 
of secondary rank to the brisket, so that its 
greatest value is for canned corned beef. 

But while I am on the steak subject, I con- 
sider it worthy of consideration for this pur- 
pose, tho seldom listed or used in this country. 
In France, however, the rump pieces are com- 
monly used as steak, and, in my opinion, they 
should be complimented on their judgment. 

THE ROUND STEAK 

The Round steak comes from the hind quarter, 
marked No. 3, in the diagram. It sells at about 
twelve cents per pound. It is more of a family 
steak, but can be of use to the hotel or res- 
taurant. 

The choice part is what is called the "Top" 
or inside piece. That is the part called the 
"frieandeau" in veal, with which all cooks are 
familiar. When taken from a good steer or 
heifer it makes an excellent steak. 

The Chicago packers market the round entire 
as a rule, but in New York and California I 
have seen the "top round" a common market 
piece. 

THE SMALL, PLAIN, OR LOIN END 
STEAK 

I will now revert to the loin, and treat of the 
"loin butt." After removing the hip bone, we 
have what is known as the "boneless sirloin 
butt." They are supplied by the packing houses 
as boneless or whole. When bought whole you 



24 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Boneless Loin Butt. (From which is made, when cut in two, the oblong and triangle cuts illustrated below) 



get the tenderloin part, and the fat and bone, 
which should come in for consideration when 
making your choice. They are graded in quality 
and price much like the loin. 

20 to 24 pounds averaging 20c 

15 to 18 pounds averaging 18c 

10 to 15 pounds averaging 17c 
8 to 10 pounds averaging 16c 
6 to 7 pounds averaging 14c 
for the boneless; and the same grade with the 
bone and tenderloin in sell at from four to 
five cents less per pound. 

It is from the sirloin butt that hotels, clubs 
and restaurants derive the small, or plain steaks ; 
and this has covered the ground so fully and 
well that it has caused the limited field of mar- 
ket and demand for the rump and round steaks 
before mentioned. 

In making your choice between the short and 



long loins the butt is the important point of 
consideration; and further, a lot depends on 
who the chef is. Some chefs make scarcely 
any use of the loin butt, while others employ 
it extensively and profitably. The chef that 
uses the most has the advantage, as the higher 
grade cuts of beef are generally the least 
profitable, except in the very best establish- 
ments where high prices prevail. 

The supply being practically unlimited, and 
the grade of quality so varied, it deserves the 
chef's most careful consideration; in fact, a 
skillful handling of the loin butt is one of the 
most valued assets of the average chef. This 
is the steak that the chef generally reserves for 
himself and crew and the officers. In many 
places the cheaper grades are bought for the 
help's hall. 

In cutting steaks from the large steer butts, 





These illustrations represent a Butt Steak piece cut in two. The oblong is the cut of second quality. 

triangle is the choice cut. 



The 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AXD CARVER 



25 





Trimmings from Loin Butt. "A" is suitable for 
help's steak, pot roast, sauerbraten, etc. "B" Is 
suitable for boiled beef, beef a la mode, and for 
corned beef, etc. 



the butt should first be freed of flank, then cut 
in two. That gives you the lower, or triangle 
part, and the upper or oblong part. (See illus- 
tration.) The smaller, or heifer, butts may be 
left whole for steak slicing generally. In the 
former the triangle part is much the choicest 
for steaks. It is more tender, and well inter- 
spersed with fat. Cut these in slices one inch 
thick, across the grain. The oblong part has 
little fat, and is interlaced with considerable 



sinew. For myself, I generally use this part 
for Pot roast, Beef a la mode, Weiner rost- 
braten, Braised beef loin, or some such use. I 
keep a jar of marinade in the ice box for this 
purpose, and as the parts accumulate, I mari- 
nade them, and when there are enough, I utilize 
them as above indicated, or as 

German pot roast with noodles; 
Braised loin end of beef with glazed vegeta- 
bles ; 

Weiner rostbraten with potato dumplings ; 
Beef a la mode, browned potato and spatzel. 

For a higher priced entree the triangle part is 
very serviceable. Such dishes as 

Old-fashioned plain steak, sauce Creole; 

Three-minute small steak, Lyonnaise pota- 
toes; 

Loin-end steak au jus with baked potato. 

The flank part of the sirloin butt contains two 
choice minor parts of beef. The piece that be- 
longs to the round proper, is just the thing for 
help steak, and that is how I have generally 
used it. The other part, which belongs to the 
flank proper, is fine for boiled or braised a la 
mode or pot roast. 

THE SHORT LOIN 

The short loins come in two classes, the pin 
bone and the flat bone. The flat bone loin is 
about three inches longer than the pin bone, and 
is sometimes called the Hotel Cut loin. (Esti- 
mated by following test, seventeen per cent full 
loin.) The flat bone is six per cent butt and 
eleven per cent loin, as compared with the full 




A — The bottom, or oblong Butt Steak. 
B — The top, or triangle Butt Steak. 



Pin-bone loin 


end 8/2% of the 


full loin, 


makes: 


ARTICLES 




Per cent 


Cost 


Amount 


Short butt steak 




24. OS 


25 


G.0200 


Tenderloin steak 




05.55 


25 


1.3875 


Stock bones 




14.82 


2.50 


.3705 


Pot roast or corned beef 


37.03 


10.50 


3.8881 


Suet 




18.52 


6.50 


1.2038 



100.00 



12.8699 



Pin-bone short loin, 8 l A% of full loin, makes: 



ARTICLES Per cent 

Sirloin & tenderloin steak 40 . 74 
Boiling beef IS. 52 

Suet and fat 24.08 

Stock and bones 14. S2 

Shrinkage 01.84 



Cost 

40 

10.50 
6.50 
2.50 



100.00 



Amount 

16.2960 

1.9446 

1.5652 

.3705 



20.1763 



The whole loin: 

ARTICLES Per cent 

Sirloin butt 08.50 

Short loin 08.50 



Cost 

12.86 

20.17 



Amount 

1.0731 
1.7144 

17)2. 7875(= 16.52 



26 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Pin-bone Short Loin. 



loin, which is eight and a half per cent loin, 
and eight and a half per cent butt. 

The pin bone loin is classed as a perfect cut, 
and rated all loin. In making your choice you 
will be governed by what use you can make of 
the butt. And here is where the chef plays an 
important part. Some use a lot of loin end, 
while others hardly know what to do with it. 
The chef that makes the most and best use of 



minor cuts of beef is going to show the best 
profit balance at the end of the month. 

The test here given is a valuable aid in teach- 
ing the buyer how to determine the loin best 
suited to his use. (Of course weights and prices 
change, and a test can only go so far; supply 
the principle of computation, and give an ap- 
proximate estimate of the different loins. The 
hotel man wants to know which is the best loin 




The St. Nicholas Loin, showing pin bone cut with all of the tenderloin left In. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



27 



for him to buy, for his particular use, and my 
object is to suggest to the buyer how to do it.) 

He should not stop at the loin, but should 
also consider the sirloin strips, "bone in" and 
"bone out," and the various tenderloins, on all 
of which I will supply data. 

In hotel catering, the "knowing how" to buy 
and sell is as important to the hotel man as to 
the merchant. I have pointed out how, under 
practically even conditions, sirloin steak is sold 
all the way from seventy cents to $1.25, and I 
have seen buying just as faulty. 

There is another loin I will mention that you 
don't see listed in the market reports. It is 
called the St. Nicholas loin (first cut by Morris 
& Co.), being named after the St. Nicholas 
Hotel of Cincinnati, which originated the loin. 
The St. Nicholas loin is obtained by cutting out 
only the loin end and hip bone part of the full 
loin, leaving the tenderloin entire. Cut in this 
manner, you get a full tenderloin and sirloin 
strip without any butt and the minimum of 
bone. Since started by the St. Nicholas, several 
hotels now use it. It sells for two cents more 
per pound than the pin bone loin. 

When using No. 1 Native Loins it is safe to 
figure that you will get about as many steaks 
from an 85-pound loin as you would from a 
90-pound loin. If you are using a lighter 
grade the same comparison applies. In choos- 
ing Short Loins, calculate from the same basis. 
If you can save five to ten pounds on each 
loin it is a great economical advantage. In 
places where I can get a satisfactory sirloin 
strip and stock tenderloin, I favor them, as 
they give me a larger and more independent 
field of action. So many different conditions 
prevail, however, that the steward and chef 
must be more or less governed by them. 

There are many special sirloin steak dishes 
desirable for European sendee that the No. 1 
sirloin strips are the best for; and with the 
stock tenderloin you can get the same benefit; 
whereas, if you are dependent on what loins 
you use for tenderloins, you can only make a 
limited use of them. All those points determine 
the variety and quality of the chef's work. 
Hardly any two agree, however. 



BEEF TEST EXAMPLES. 



THE BRIGAND'S FEAST 

Joaquin Miller, "Poet of the Sierras," was 
the inventor of the Brigand's Feast. It is made 
of venison, according to his recipe, but that may 
be substituted. It is a brochette of venison, 
bacon, onions, and green peppers, roasted over 
the open campfire. He vouches for it as being 
a feast fit for the gods, albeit he has dedicated it 
to the brigands. 



Test on one 
cents = $12.54: 

ARTICLES 
Pot roast 
Boiling meat 
Trimmings 
Sirloin strip 
Tenderloin 
Strip bones 
Butt steak 
Small steak 
Suet 
Bones 



full loin, sixty-six pounds ((0 19 



Weight 
7 
4 

VA 

15 
6 

5/2 

10/ 2 
4/2 
7 
5 



Per cent 
10.62 
06.06 
02.27 
22.72 
09.09 
08.33 
15.91 
06.80 
10.62 
07.58 



Cost 
10.50 
10.50 
10.50 



Amount 

1.1151 

.6363 

.2384 



39.41 12.4359 



2 

15 

15 

8 

2 



.1666 

2.3865 

1.0200 

.8496 

.1516 



66 100.00 19.0000 

In these test examples you fix the price of 
the by-products on a basis of what they would 
cost you, were you to buy them direct. Bones 
two cents, suet eight cents, pot roast ten and 
a half cents; boiling meat, IOV2C; trimmings, 
10y 2 e; butt, 15c. The price of the sirloin and 
tenderloin is determined by what these by- 
products will total, to-wit: 

Seven-pound pot roast: 

66 pounds) 7. 0000(10. 62% 
10.62 x 10/2=1.1151 

Proceed with all the by-products ; then total ; 
subtract from the price of the loin, nineteen 
cents. With that price you get the per cent 
and amount of the sirloin and tenderloin in 
the same manner as with the by-products. 



Test on pin-bone loin, twenty-seven pounds 
@ 26 cents = $7.02: 



ARTICLES 


Weight 


Per cent 


Cost 


Amount 


Steak 


11 


40.74 


54.15 


22.0606 


Boiling meat 


5 


18.52 


09.50 


1.7594 


Suet 


6/2 


24.08 


07.50 


1.8060 


Bones 


4 


14.82 


02.50 


.3705 


Shrinkage 


27 


01.84 








100.00 


25.9965 




* 


* # 






Test on beef butt, twenty-seven pounds @ 14 


cents = $3.78: 










ARTICLES 


Weight 


Per cent 


Cost 


Amount 


Butt steak 


6/2 


24.08 


29.32 


70.6020 


Tenderloin 


1/2 


05.55 


30 


16.6500 


Bones 


4 


14.82 


2.50 


.3705 


Boiling meat 


10 


37.03 


9.50 


3.5178 


Suet 


5 


18.52 


7.50 


13.8900 



27 100.00 14.0025 

To estimate steaks and portions divide quantity 

by the weight each portion or steak is to have. 



28 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



Test on full loin, eighty pounds @ 19 cents = 



$15.20: 

ARTICLES 
Tenderloin 
Sirloin strip 
Top sirloin butt 



Weight 

6% 

20 Vz 
12 

(Oblong cut: see page 24.) 

Bottom sirloin butt 12 
(Triangle cut: see page 24.) 

Flanks 4H 

Trimmings 5/4 

Suet 7H 

Bones 11 ^ 



Per cent 
08.44 
25.63 
15.00 

15.00 

05.31 
06.88 
09.37 
14.37 



Cost 
34.22 

20 

14 

9.50 
9.50 
8.50 

2 



Amount 
11.6591 

3.0000 

2.1000 

.5035 
.6536 
.7964 

.2874 



butt. I have rated them both as steak here, 
as most chefs use the whole piece as steak 
and do not generally adopt my method of 
marinading* the top part for pot roast, etc. 



80 100.00 19.0000 

Sirloin strip from this loin measured nineteen 
inches long and thirteen inches wide. 
Top sirloin butt is the oblong part. 
Bottom sirloin butt is the triangle part refer- 
red to in loin butt article. 

* * * 

Test on pin-bone butt (thirty- eight and one-half 



Test on one full loin, 
cents = $17.64: 

ARTICLES 
Pot roast 
Boiling meat 
Flank trimmings 
Sirloin strip 
Tenderloin 
Strip bones 
Butt steak 
Small steak 
Suet 
Bones 



eighty-four pounds @ 21 



Cost 



10.50 




84 



100.00 

* * 



Amount 

2.8759 

13.9766 

.1428 
3.1245 

.7616 
.1190 

21.0000 



pounds), cut into 


steaks: 










Portion each 


Per cent 


Pounds 


Portions 


Cut top sirloin 


12 oz. 


05.84 


2 1 /* 


3 steaks 


Cut small steak 


8 " 


11.68 


4/2 


9 " 


Cut loin butt steak 


10 2 / 3 " 


15.58 


6 


9 " 


Pot roast and stew 


8 " 


28.57 


11 


22 orders 


Tenderloin steak 


8 " 


07.79 


3 


6 steaks 


Suet 




15.60 


6 


• 


Bones 


* # 


14.94 


5% 

38/ 2 






100.00 

* 





Test case on a live animal; illustrating the 
way the packer fixes his value, quantities, and 
prices of a beef carcass. 

Live carcass 1250 pounds; dress 60%; 756 pounds 
dressed carcass: 

Carcass 756 Carcass 756 

Pin bone 8 % % Loin end 8 l A % 



2)64.26 for two 



2)64. 26 for two 



Test on pin-bone short loin (forty-two and one- 
half pounds), cut into steaks: 



32.13 av'ge each 

Carcass 756 
Full loin 17% 



32.13 av'ge each 



Portions pot roast 8 oz. 15.89 



8 
16 
16 



Weight Per cent 



Portions each Per cent Pounds Portions 

6 3 A 13/ 2 orders 

5% 1054 steaks * * * 

16 16 Test on rib, thirty-six pounds 

1 ARTICLES 

5/4 Short ribs 

8 Bones 

Fat 

iW > Cap 

Test on one full loin, seventy-five pounds @ 20 ~, . , 

Shrinkage 



2)128.52 for two 



Tenderloin steak 

Sirloin steak 

Trimmings 

Bones 

Suet 



12.35 
37.65 
02.35 
12.94 
18.82 

100.00 

* * 



64.26 av'ge each 



15 cents = $5.40: 



cents = $15.00 
A RTICLES 
Boiling meat 
Pot roast 
Trimmings 
Sirloin 

Tenderloin 

Butt steak 
Small steak 
Strip bones 
Suel 

I >u 1 1 hones 



5 

7 
1 

1/2 

17 

4/2 



13.89 
19.44 
02.78 
04.16 

48.22 
12.51 



Cost 

10 
2.50 
8.50 

10 

26.42 



Weight 
6 

9/2 

2 

17 

6 

12 

4/2 

6 

7 



Per cent 
OS. 00 \ 
12.66 
02.67 ) 
22.67) 
08.00 S 
16.00) 
06.00 ' 
08.00 
09.33 
06.67 



Cost 



10.50 



Amount 
2.4497 



36 



100.00 

# * 



Amount 

1.3890 

.4860 

.2363 

.4160 

12.4727 



15.0000 



43.07 13.2105 



15 

2 
8 
2 



3.3000 

. 1600 
.7464 
.1334 



Test on beef round, one hundred and ten pounds 
<" 12/ cents = $13.75: 

Weight 

31 



ARTICLES 
Bottom round 

Top round ZO 

Kernel 1 1 

Shank 17 

Fat 10 

Bones 16 



Per cent 

28.18 
22.73 

10.00 
15. 15 

09.0!) 
1 1 . 55 



75 100.00 20.0000 

Butl steak and small steak are the oblong 
and triangle or top and bottom parts of loin 



110 100.00 

Above is the test of beef round used for illus- 
tration. (See page 36.) 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



29 



ROAST BEEF. 

In selecting rib roasts, as much importance 
should be given to the sex as with the loin; 
and even more, on account of shrinkage. A 
steak cooks in minutes, but a beef roast takes 
hours, and, consequently, suffers more from 
shrinkage. The heifer, or cow rib, will shrink 
nearly twice as much as the steer rib. The 
heifer rib is lacking in color, too, when com- 
pared with the steer roast. The standard of 
color with the average roast beef eater is a dark 
rich red, which can only be had with the steer 
rib. The cow roast has a light pinkish color; 
and no matter how well the rib has been 
roasted, it does not produce the red colored 
slice of roast beef that is necessary for the most 
satisfactory results. 

The heifer rib is extremely hard for the 
roast cook to judge in cooking. It does not 
have the "feel" or "set" that cooks are 
guided by in roasting a rib. The result is that 
it is overdone, generally, and the roast slices 
up white and too well done. In some places, 
as female seminaries, department stores, and 
for the private home it is ideal and given pref- 
erence for these reasons, but for the commer- 
cial hotels and restaurants the good old Eng- 
lish roast beef kind is indispensable; and you 
can only get that by using steer ribs. 

The rib, to be at its best, should be well 
aged; not less than two weeks, and four is 
better. It requires a good grade of beef and 
good refrigeration to age meats. A dry and 
even temperature is necessary — about 33 de- 
grees. Few hotels are equipped for the proper 
aging of beef ; but if you are getting your sup- 
ply from some of the big packing houses, they 
will deliver it at any age required. 

I have previously given directions to deter- 
mine the sex and age of beef by reading the 
ribs, but there is another point to note in 
selecting the rib roast, and that is to see that 
it is well marbled. That shows up in the 
cut ends. Beef that has been well fed and 
is choice has a marbled look, the effect of in- 
termingled fat and lean. 

The No. 1 steer ribs are two grades, namely: 
No. 1 heavy, weighing from 42 to 55 pounds, 
and the No. 1 light, weighing from 34 to 41 
pounds. The next would be a No. 2 and 
lighter grade. 

If you are employed in a place that sells 
roast beef at, say, thirty-five cents or forty 
cents per portion, a good No. 2 would be the 
best to use. The average first class European - 
plan hotel uses a No. 1 grade, and the No. 1 
heavy is most in demand. For myself, I give 
preference to the lighter of the No. 1 grades 



mentioned, for I find that I can get about 
as many orders from the 42-pound rib as I 
can from the 55-pound rib, and there is like- 
wise but little difference in the number of or- 
ders to be had in the 34 to 41-pound ribs. The 
slices wont be as large as those of the larger 
ribs, but they will be big enough. When you 
use the heaviest ribs, your portions are apt 
to be larger than necessary. Of course, in 
some establishments they insist on the biggest 
and finest cuts, and you have no choice; but 
from an economical standpoint the above' con- 
siderations are well to make. On an average 
a forty-pound roast will produce thirty-five 
orders of roast beef of average size European 
plan cuts. 

In length, ribs are of two standard cuts. 
One is the Western or seven-rib cut; the other 
the New York or eight-rib cut. The Western 
cut is made one rib from the loin and seven 
ribs from the chuck. Leaving one rib to the 
loin is convenient for handling and hanging; 
but it is really a "money" cut. The loin 
sells for about twice as much as the rib, and 
by leaving one rib to the loin, the money cut 
is made. The New York cut of eight ribs 
does not leave any rib to the loin when prop- 
erly made ; but it is not always properly made, 
as the money cut can be, and is at times made 
at the chuck end of the rib. 

The beef carcass contains thirteen ribs to 
each side, and when properly divided, eight to 
the rib and five to the chuck; and, in the case 
of the Western cut, one to the loin, leaving 
only seven to the rib. The big packing houses 
observe these standards closely; but there are 
others that will make a money cut of one rib 
that properly belongs to the chuck. I know, 
for I have had them. This is a case where 
you get it from both ends and the middle. 

The standard New York chuck cut has five 
ribs, and includes numbers 12, 13, 14 and 15 
of the carcass (see diagram). 

The standard cut in the width of ribs is ten 
inches, measured from inside of the chine bone. 
Here is where you will often find a money cut 
has been made, as it is common to find ribs 
cut more than ten inches wide. It seems to 
me that no two ribs were ever cut the same 
width. 

To butcher a rib begin by sawing off the 
short-rib. That should be three inches wide, 
if from a ten-inch rib. The best way to meas- 
ure the short-rib off is by sawing it off at a 
distance of seven inches from the inside of the 
chine bone. The hand measure is about right 
for that. The average human hand, closed 
and with thumb extended, measures about 



30 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




X X Knuckles Off. 
OOOO Lombar and Kidney Fat Out. 
A Four Vertebrae Off. 



seven inches, with few exceptions. That will 
give you the correct width of rib for roasting, 
and leave you all the short-rib. 




Illustrates usual method of measuring by extended 
thumb and closed fist the proper cut for short-ribs. 
(The distance between the short-rib and where the 
thumb touches the hollow should be seven inches, 
which Is the measurement of the average hand, as 
shown in the Illustration, and is the proper width for 
trimming ribs for roasting.) 



After removing the short-rib, chop the chine 
bone away with a cleaver. Some prefer to 
saw it off. Great care should be taken not 
to cut the chine bone too deep into the rib. If 
you cut too deep, you cause easy escape of 
the roast's juices, and you have left it liable 
to part, or crack, where the back and rib 
bones join, and that is a severe injury to the 
roast. Let these bones remain well joined. 
In the process of several hours' cooking these 
bones become very loose, and are easily re- 
moved to facilitate the work of carving. 
Many cooks seem to think that it is necessary 
to break the connection and cut away all the 
bone down to the meat, and I have seen many 
a nice rib crack nearly in two from this cause. 

In good grades of ribs you can safely leave 
the rib and chine bones intact as the bones 
will cook out so that you can remove them 
with no trouble. 

Next, from the large end, you remove the 
cover or cap lying over the shoulder blade. 
Cut off a strip about four inches wide the 
full width of the rib and as deep as to the 
blade bone. This piece of cover you tie over 
the small end of the rib, over outside top, to 
prevent it from becoming too well done. There 
is so much difference between the two ends 
that the small end needs this protection. 

Some leave the shoulder blade bone in for 
roasting; but when it is a heavy rib it is 
best removed. 

The next process is to securely tie the rib 
with special heavy roast beef twine, when it 
will be ready for the oven. 

SPENCER ROLLS AND REGULAR ROLLS. 
These are boneless ribs, and they are gen- 
erally made of the inferior grades of ribs. 
Still you can get them of all grades. I have 
seen even the very best ribs boned for rolls, 
as they are ordered at times by some chefs. 
The regular roll is the "heart" of the rib 
divested of cover as well as bones. The 
Spencer roll has only the bone removed, and 
the cap over the shoulder blade, as I specified 
in my directions for butchering a rib. The 
average cook knows very little of roast beef 
rolls, as they are only used in certain places, 
as cheap restaurants, noon day lunch clubs 
(where roast beef is nine cents), asylums, in- 
stitutions, and the like. Women cooks are 
generally fond of them, as they need no butch- 
ering and are easy to carve and roast. The 
chefs confine their use of them to pot roast 
or roast braten, for which they are excellent. 
In a popular priced lunch room the Spencer 
roll is often used for hot roast beef sandwich 
au jus. In serving a big banquet at a small 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



31 




Rib of Beef prepared for roasting. 




A Regular Roll, taken from beef rib. 




Spencer Roll. (Boned rib of beef, favored especially in places where there are women cooks; also In low- 
price establishments.) 



32 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



price the Spencer roll can be used to good 
advantage. 

The price of these rolls at this writing, is 
about fifteen cents per pound for the Spencer, 
and fourteen for the regular; that is for the 
standard grade; but you can order them of 
the different grades and prices of the beef rib. 

THE SHORT-RIBS. 

The short-rib generally stands high in the 
esteem of the chef. I recollect that at a 
culinary exhibition given in Chicago about 
twenty years ago, a dish of short ribs was 
awarded one of the first prizes. Many chefs 
neglect the short-rib and only use it for the 
help, or for corned beef; when, from a good 
grade of beef, they are a choice dish, and 
should not be slighted. When buying short- 
ribs by themselves, they cost only about ten 
cents a pound, and can be handled very profit- 
ably. Being a popular priced dish and gener- 
ally well liked, they are good sellers. Many 
places have them on the bill of fare every day. 
A standard rib will produce five orders of 
short-ribs, and, at say, forty cents an order, 
produces two dollars — a big item toward mak- 
ing roast beef profitable — roast beef being one 
of the poorest revenue producers that the chef 
has to handle. In buying short-ribs, have 
them cut about five inches wide, if you use 
one section per portion, and about three inches, 
if you use two sections. The packers have 
no well established standard of short-rib cut, 
and unless you specify, you will get them 
from three to twelve inches wide, and it will 
be impossible for you to cut them to ad- 
vantage. 

Select the grade carefully, for they should 




Tied Short-Ribs for European plan service. (On 
the American plan it is usually the custom to leave 
the short-rib whole, to be sliced in smaller por- 
tions.) 



be from steer or prime heifer beef. The pack- 
ers "strip" all the "rattlers" so that stripped 
or pieced meat needs careful selecting. All 
kinds of food animals arrive at the stock 
yards. In looking over the cattle pens you 
Avill see beef animals so lean and thin that 
you can "count their ribs." Such cattle are 
stripped; that is, cut into sirloin strips, rolls, 
short-ribs, made into corned beef, etc., as they 
would not sell in regular market cuts. So look 
out for "rattlers" when buying short-ribs, as 
there are plenty of the right sort to be had. 

In butchering the short-rib, first remove the 
fat from the top. They are very fat next to 
the bone, and unless the top fat is removed, 
they will not be at their best. Remove the first 
section of rib from the small end, as it has 
little or no meat. Some only use three or 
four sections, deeming the others unsuited to 
the best service. Trim 'the edges carefully 
when using aged meat. Then cut into sections 
of one rib each, and tie securely with roast 
beef twine, wrapping twice around, once end- 
wise, and once around the body, when they 
will be ready for cooking. 

They can be used in many ways. The most 
popular is with some sort of potato garnish. 
Suggestions for short-rib dishes: 

Prime beef short-ribs with special baked 
potato. 

Casserole of beef short-ribs; Congress style. 

Braised beef short-ribs with potatoes au 
gratin. 

Old-fashioned baked short-ribs and browned 
potatoes. 

Boiled beef short-ribs, sauce Creole and 
bouillon potatoes. 

Short-ribs, Spanish style, with corn fritters. 

Potted beef short-ribs with potatoes 'Brien. 

Casserole of boiled beef short-ribs, with 
vegetables and bouillon. 

BEEF SHANKS. 

Not long ago you could buy beef shanks 
at twenty-five cents each, and very few were 
in demand at that. Now they sell from six 
to seven cents per pound. They come in two 
classes, the half shank and the full shank. 
The half shank is of one joint, and the full 
shank is of two joints. But it is the "half 
shank," or just "shank" when ordered, that 
the chef uses. The full shanks are ordered 
for special purposes only. There are two 
kinds, the fore shank and the hind shank. 
The fore half shanks weigh from ten to six- 
teen pounds each when of the best grade, and 
the hind hall' shanks weigh from eight to four- 
teen pounds each. 

When the American plan hotel was general 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



33 



the chef cut up a lot of meat every day and 
never wanted for bones; but now, with the 
European plan so common, he is often shy of 
beef bones necessary for making good soup 
stock. So he has taken to ordering beef 
shanks for his stock and consomme, the meat 
of the shank being excellent for consomme, 
and the bones for the stock. This increased 
demand has helped to raise the prices on 
shanks. 

Carcass diagrams Nos. 1 and 15 show the 
"half shank" or "shank" cuts. Of the two 
classes the regular half hind shank is best 
for the chef. 

The chef depends on what shanks he gets 
for his supply of marrow, generally, and for 
this the hind shank is much the best. It 
is from these that the packing-house supply 
of marrow sticks is derived. 

There is a certain per cent of diseased 
marrow. It is easily detected, either by an 
offensive smell or by its color. When black 
color marks appear, it is best to condemn it 
as bad. When healthy it has a reddish color. 

For the soups known as Pot-au-feau and 
Petites Marmites, slices of marrow bone are 
necessary. Saw thru the bone in lengths of 
about one inch each; two or three pieces per 
portion. The hind shank is the best for this 
use. 

BOILED BEEF. 

In the carcass diagram No. 7, the flank; No. 
9, the navel end, and No. 14, the brisket, are 
the choice cuts of boiling beef. Of these 
the brisket is easily the best, and in good 
places practically little other is used for boiling. 

To be a success, boiled beef should be of a 
choice fat grade. In my opinion about the 
worst dish that can be served, is a lean, dry 
dish of boiled beef. When properly served, 
boiled beef stands in the front line of best 
dishes. 

"Boiled beef and horseradish sauce" is a 
classic. Others like 

Boiled beef with stuffed cabbage and mus- 
tard sauce. 

English boiled beef and vegetable combina- 
tion. 

Boiled beef with Spanish sauce and bouillon 
potatoes. 

All these are generally liked and good 
sellers. 

The Kaiserhof Hotel, of Chicago, features 
a boiled beef dish of a most original and 
excellent kind, and serves it every day. It is 
listed "Rinderbrust, horseradish sauce, navy 
bean salad." It is served in an oblong shal- 
low casserole, and the beef, instead of being- 




Half hind shank of beef (as commonly used by 

chefs). 



sliced in the ordinary way, is carved in one 
thick slice to the portion, which adds to its 
character. It is garnished with scooped, or 
Parisienne cut turnips, carrots and potatoes, 
small whole onions and green peas. The beef 
and its garnish are then entirely immersed 
in the broth of the boiled beef, which has been 
reduced and strengthened. The bouillon 




Beef Shank, from foreauarter 



34 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Boned Beef Brisket. 



should be rich and clear. A side dish of horse- 
radish sauce and one of navy bean salad is 
served with it. The diner first helps himself 
to the bouillon taken from the casserole, a 
soup plate and ladle having been provided- 
After eating the soup he proceeds with the 
boiled beef and its garnish. It is an ideal 
dish for the European hotel. 

The best briskets are in three grades, Nos, 1, 
2 and 3. With bone in, they sell at about 
twelve cents for No. 1; ten cents, No. 2 and 
nine cents, No. 3. With bone out sixteen cents, 
No. 1; fourteen cents, No. 2, and thirteen cents, 
No. 3. (Quotations taken from the market 
prices at this writing.) 

BEEF TONGUES. 

Beef tongues, as they are cut for market 
with the gullet on, will average five pounds 
each, and sell for from sixteen to eighteen 
cents per pound, approximately. The pickled 
and the fresh tongues sell at the same price. 

As a boiled dish or entree, fresh and pickled 
tongues are poor sellers. Their best use is for 
cold dishes and sandwiches. In slicing a 
tongue begin at the large end, and cut across 
the tongue, NOT at the back, and lengthwise 
of the tongue, as is often done. 

Smoked tongue is in good demand when 
served boiled, especially when served with 
spinach. Smoked tongues sell at about twenty 
to twenty-two cents per pound, and weigh 
three and a half pounds on an average. They 
shrink almost twenty-five per cent in the 
process of curing, which makes a very expen- 
sive and valuable article. 

Veal tongues, pigs' tongues and lambs' 
tongues can always be had, but the average 
chef confines their use to pickling. Occasion- 
ally, tho, you will find a chef that makes up 
some nice entrees of fresh veal and lambs' 
tongues, such as 

Whole veal tongue, polonaise, with corn 
fritters 

Braised veal tongues with spaghetti Ital- 
icnne. 



Lambs' tongues, sauce Pascaline, in border. 

Pigs' tongues may be assorted in size, and 
when large enuf, pickled with the veal tongues, 
and when small mixed with the lambs ' tongues, 
or used in sausage making. 

DRIEE BEEF. 

Wherever you go, you will find dried or 
smoked beef, altho there is very little demand 
for it (it is more of a family dish as it is 
so easy to prepare that the housekeeper takes 
rather kindly to it). Some chefs feature it 
as a boiled dish served with kale or turnip 
greens; but as a rule it is used as chipped in 
cream or with scrambled eggs as a light 
breakfast dish. In hot weather it sells pretty 
good as a cold luncheon meat. 

It is made from the round of beef cured in a 
sweet pickle like corned beef, except that the 
pickle contains more salt and sugar than for 
corned beef. When pickled enuf it is then 
smoked two and a half to five days. It comes 
in pieces called knuckles, weighing from ten 
to twenty pounds. They are classed as in- 
side and outside knuckles. The inside is the 
choicest and sells at about thirty-six cents 
per pound; the outside knuckle about thirty- 
five cents a pound. 

BEEF HEARTS. 

The chef only orders beef hearts when it is 
in disguise. No doubt many have wondered 
what becomes of all the beef hearts, as they 
are quite an item. They are disposed of mostly 
in the manufacture of Bologna and Frank- 
furter sausage, and also used in making head 
cheese. The veal, sheep and pigs' hearts are 
disposed of in the same way. 

Once in a great while you will see a chef 
make an entree of stuffed veal heart, or stuffed 
beef heart, but as a rule, the chef completely 
neglects the heart as a food. 

BEEF LIPS. 

Beef lips are what the name implies, and are 
scarcely known, except to the Germans, with 
whom they are in favor. It is first cured with 
a corned beef pickle, known as sweet; then 
cooked; then it is put in vinegar or a sour 
pickle. The Germans make a highly seasoned 
and spiced dish of it. Mr. Michael Altman, 
president of the John G. Neumeister Co. of Chi- 
cago, who was the first to market beef lips in 
America, says they are customarily put on bills 
of fare with their German name, Deutscher 
Ochsen Maul Salat. He says that both lips and 
gristle are relished; also that they are put up 
in English fashion by using Coleman's mustard. 
OX-TAILS 

The ox-tails come in three grades, the large 






THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



35 



at about ten cents per pound; the medium at 
eight cents, and the small at six cents. The large 
are named "Exports," and are the steer tails, 
while the medium are named "Regulars," and 
are apt to be cow tails. The chef nearly always 
orders them by the piece, as he can best judge 
the quantity that way. An Export, or large 
tail, will average twenty-four pounds a dozen. 
Regular, or medium tails, will average eighteen 
pounds a dozen ; and the small, twelve pounds a 
dozen. 

There is an average of seventeen sections to 
the tail, but only eight of them are suitable for 
an entree; the remainder or small end is used 
for ox-tail soup. Three natural sections, or 
■joints, make an average order, so one tail on 
that basis makes two and two-thirds orders. 
Ox-tails require careful washing, as they are 
generally covered with hair. In cutting the 
ox-tails it is best not to chop them with the 
cleaver, but to cut them at the joints with a 
knife. You will find that it is easily done, and 
it does not shatter and sliver the bone as when 
chopped with a cleaver ; also, it leaves the natu- 
ral sections of meat in a much better condition 
for cooking and eating. 

CORNED BEEF 

There are three grades of corned beef. They 
are brisket, rump, and plates. The brisket is 
much the best, and is the grade used in - all 
good hotels. It sells for sixteen to eighteen 
cents per pound, which is about twice as much 
as the plates sell for, and one-third more than 
the rump in price. 

The leading packing houses devote a lot of 
attention and care to corned beef, and they 
have the prices so carefully adjusted between 
the cured and uncured corned beef cuts that, 
except in very particular places, it is scarcely 
worth while for the chef to make his own corned 



beef. In times past, if you wanted the best 
corned beef, you had to make it yourself. Some 
chefs still make their own, especially in places 
where they have a lot of loin flanks to dispose 
of. Others feature a high grade of "home 
cured" corned beef and make it themselves to 
insure its being of the choicest beef briskets. 
Another advantage of your own make is that 
you can get a better cure. 

Corned beef, to be at its best, should be used 
when it has become properly cured. Leaving 
in the pickle too long injures it more or less; 
and you never can tell, when you buy ready 
cured corned beef, how long it has been in 
pickle. Of late years the big packers make 
what is called a mild cured corned beef that can 
withstand pickling several weeks without serious 
injury. 

When asked to select a list of the most popu- 
lar dishes, but few chefs would leave out 
"Corned beef and cabbage," "Corned beef 
hash," and "New England boiled dinner"; 
and wherever you go, you will find places that 
feature one or all of the above. 

* * -X- 

Formula for two weeks ' pickle : 
1 gal. water 
' 3 lb. salt 
y<z oz. saltpeter 
Y2 oz. sugar 
Formula for four weeks ' pickle : 
1 gal. water 
2V 2 lbs. salt 
*4 oz. saltpeter 
^4 oz. sugar 
Temperature has some effect on the time of 
cure; the warmer it is kept the quicker it will 
cure; but it should be kept in a cold place. 
The pickle is better after it has been used once. 
What is called the second pickling is much the 




Clod of Beef from Shoulder. 



36 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




A — Kernel of Beef Round. 



B — Top piece of Beef Round. 



C — Bottom piece of Beef Round. 



best, bo retain your pickle as Long as you can. 
It will keep longesl when granulated sugar is 
used. The dark brown sugar is often used and 
preferred, but it will "rope" or spoil (he pickle 
sooner. 
Some chefs add vegetables to the pickle— 



onions, celery, and carrots— and some use 
spices, as bay leaves, mustard seed, and all- 
spice. Then there is what is called the garlic 
cure, with cloves of garlic peeled, and tied in 



cheesecloth, which is added to the pickle, 
garlic cure for tongues is fine. 



The 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



37 



When making your own corned beef it is 
best to have two pickling barrels. Cut the 
boned briskets into two or three pieces accord- 
ing to size. Jab into the meat a few times 
with the point of a boning knife before placing 
in the pickle. 

SHOULDER CLOD 

The shoulder clod is like the chuck roll, one 
of the choicest parts of the chuck; all meat 
with no waste. They weigh from five to twelve 
pounds, and sell from nine to thirteen cents 
per pound. When cut from a steer or heifer 
they are fine, and often used as roast and rost- 
braten. In cheap restaurants where a thirty- 
five or fifty-cent table d'hote is served they are 
generally used for roast beef, and also for a 
cheap steak. They come from the wider and 
larger division of the shoulder blade; the 
smaller division being the chuck roll or tender- 
loin before described. 

HAMS OF BEEF 

Beef hams are derived from the beef round, 

and are the cuts of which dried beef is made; 

but in their natural state are good for pot 

roasts and round steaks, when from a good 



grade of cattle, and are very desirable for 

places that have low prices. 

* * * 

One hundred pounds of loins, boned out, will 
produce about the following (as computed by 
Armour & Co.) : 

Sirloin butts 24% Tallow 13% 

Sirloin strips 20% Trimmings 10% 

Tenderloins .... 12% 

Bones 21% 100% 

One hundred pounds of chucks, boned out, 
will produce about the following (Armour & 
Co.): 

Clods 16% Bones 22% 

Boneless chucks. 62% lOO^F 

One hundred pounds of ribs, boned out, will 
produce about the following (Armour & Co.) : 

Rolls 47% Bones 28% 

Trimmings 25% 100% 

One hundred pounds of rounds, boned out, will 
produce about the following (Armour & Co.) : 

Rump butts 11% Tallow 5% 

Steaks 58% Bones 16% 



Stewing meats. 
Shank meat . . . 



4% 

% 



100% 



KENTUCKY BURGOO AND BARBECUE 

I once had the opportunity of attending. an 
old fashioned barbecue, and availed myself of it 
to see what I could see and learn. This partic- 
ular barbecue was prepared by the famous bur- 
goo cook, Mr. Davis, of Lexington, Ky., so I 
feel safe in placing on record what I learned. 
I was told that he was paid his traveling expenses 
and $100 a day. He was on the job three days. 
I understood pretty well what a barbecued car- 
cass of meat was, but had only heard of the 
famous Kentucky burgoos as made by Mr. Davis, 
so I was there, all eyes and attention. 

For barbecuing the meat, they dug trenches, 
about eight feet long, three feet deep, and four 
feet wide, having about ten of these trenches. 
Each trench was equipped with iron spits and 
supports for holding the meats above the coals, 
about two and a half feet. In each trench a fire 
of hard cordwood was built, and fuel supplied 
until the trenches became quite well filled with 
living coals. Then the meats were put in place 
over them, assistants to Mr. Davis turning and 
basting the meats as needed. 

There were different kinds of meat. One would 
have a whole pig, another a whole sheep, a calf 
to the third ; some had a string of whole turkeys, 
and several had whole full beef loins, and, I must 
s-ay, it smelled mighty good around there. 

For making the burgoo they had great big 
black iron kettles holding about thirty gallons 



each. These were hung on trestles, and cordwood 
fires built under them. There were about eight 
of these kettles. Each was supplied with beef 
shanks, cut in pieces, some ham and whole 
chickens, and covered with water. This was 
started the day before the feast was to be served, 
cooking the burgoo occupying the better part of 
two days. On the next day they added the vege- 
tables — whole cans of tomatoes, pecks of peeled 
potatoes and onions, green peppers by the bas- 
ket, and corn by the case. Salt and pepper were 
also applied. 

Each kettle was equipped with a big wooden 
paddle, and Mr. Davis and assistants made regu- 
lar rounds, fixing fires, stirring the mixture, a 
little more salt here, another peck of potatoes 
there, another can of tomatoes, a jDail of water 
for another, and so on. 

When the cooking was finished, each kettle 
was as full as it conveniently could hold of a 
thick, odorous, appetizing soup, all the meat 
having been stirred and cooked into small par- 
ticles, the vegetables as well, with nothing solid 
except the bare whitened bones. 

Of course such a dish is not practicable for a 
hotel, but from what I learned, I improvised a 
Kentucky burgoo soup by cutting into dice some 
raw beef, chicken, and ham, with the same vege- 
tables, so that on my bill of fare there is occa- 
sionally listed "Special: Kentucky Burgoo 
Soup." 



38 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




PORK 

Next in importance to beef as a food animal 
comes the hog. His parts and uses are even 
more varied. There are the barrow, the sow, 
and the stag hogs. 

The barrow compares with the steer in beef 
animals and grades as the best of the hog 
family for food; with the sow next. From 
160 to 200 pounds is rated the best weight hog 
producing the most desirable sized hams, bacon, 
and regular pork loins, and, under even condi- 
tions, better fat proportions. 

Of the fresh cuts, the loin, tenderloin, and 
spareribs receive the most consideration from 
the chef. It would be to his advantage to give 
some of the other cuts more of his attention, as 
they can be used with advantage and profit. 

BOSTON PORK BUTTS 

The pork butts are of two classes, the Boston 
butts and the lean butts. The Boston butts are 
drawn under the blade bone with the blade left 



in. The lean butts are drawn over the blade 
bone, and are boneless. They are really an 
extension of the pork loin, and can be used in 
place of the loin at times. It is nice roasted 
with sage dressing, or for 

German boiled dinner, 
Breaded fresh pork cutlets, 
Scallops of fresh pork, Creole, 




1. Lean and Boston butts (see description). 

2. Picnic ham (see description). 

3. Jowl. 

4. Hock. 

5. Feet. 

6. Fat back. (Heavy layer of fat used for 
larding pork; taken from the section laying 
over the standard pork loin. This fat back 
makes the highest grade of mess pork.) 

7. Loin. (Extending from shoulder cut to 
ham line.) 

8. Supreme bacon (first quality). 

9. Belly or "seconds" in bacon (8 and 9 is 
the whole bacon untrimmed). 

10. Ham. 

11. Shanks. 



on hog, weight 165 pounds: 




ARTICLES 


Weight 


Per cent 


Fat backs 


22.00 


13.33 


Bellies 


28.60 


17.33 


Hams 


28.60 


17.33 


Loose lard 


30.80 


18.67 


Shoulder hams 


13.20 


08.00 


Pork loins 


10.80 


12.00 


Boston butts 


6. GO 


04.00 


Leaf lard 


6.00 


04.00 


Feet 


1.10 


00.67 


Spare ribs 


3.30 


02.00 


Trimmings 


4.40 


02.67 




Km. 00 



100.00 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



39 




Lean pork butt. 



Home made sausage, 
and also for the help as chops and roast. It 
sells for four or five cents less than the loin 
proper. 

PORK SHOULDERS 

Pork shoulders can be bought for a compara- 
tively small price, and are profitable to the chef. 
They are just the thing for country sausage, 
having about the right proportion of fat and 
lean for sausage. It has about twenty-five per 
cent bone. 

Home made sausages are good sellers, espe- 
cially when served in a combination for lunch as 

Old-fashioned country sausage and griddle 
cakes, 

Home made sausage cakes and mashed ' po- 
tatoes, 

Combination country sausage and buckwheat 
cakes. 

The choice brands of market sausage sell 
from twenty-two to thirty cents a pound. 
Your own make will sell and please quite as 
well, and can be made for twelve or fifteen 
cents a pound. 

To make country sausage : Run the pork 




B 




thru a meat chopper, using the finest knife. 
The proportion should be about two parts lean 
to one part fat. It is best to use whole black 
pepper and grind it, as it has much the best 
flavor and strength. The sage in the natural 
leaf is best. Rub it thru a coarse sieve. Sea- 
son the chopped meat with the above and salt, 
adding ice cold water. With a little practice 
you can make a fine sausage, and you will 
KNOW that it is pork sausage. 

Nice entrees can be made of the shoulder. 
First bone and tie them securely. In that con- 
dition they are good for 

Braised pork shoulder with candied sweet 
potato 

Baked shoulder of fresh pork with puree of 
lentils 

Roulade of fresh pork, Bohemian style 

Or any other manner you may select. 

The shoulder is one of the most desirable 

cuts for the help's hall. 

* * * 

Test on illustrated pork shoulder, 10 Ms pounds 



@ 10 cents = $1.01. 






ARTICLES 


Weight 

Lbs. Ozs. 


Per cent 


Shoulder roll 


7 9 


74.69 


Shank 


1 7 


14.20 


Bone 


10 


06.17 


Fat 


S 


04.94 



10 2 



100.00 



A — Fresh pork shoulder; B — Fresh pork shoulder 
boned and tied for roasting. 



The pork shoulder shows up well in the test, 

being three-quarters meat. 

* * * 

PIG SHANKS OR KNUCKLES 
The hock is the second joint of the foreleg 
(No. 4 in diagram) lying between the shoulder 
and the knee joint. The hind quarter (No. 11) 
supplies the shanks, but they mostly go into 
hams, when they are known as hocks. The 
hock is a favorite with many people, and as a 
lunch dish with sauerkraut is greatly relished. 
They sell for about ten cents per pound. The 



40 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 






A — B — C — Fresh pork shanks. 



white ones are the most desirable. Aim to have 
them one-to-the-order size. Clean carefully, 
and boil till very well done. 

SPARERIBS . 
Spareribs are one of the most popular of 
pork dishes. They are marketed in full sheets 
weighing about four pounds, and in half sheets 
about one and a half pounds each. Like the 
shanks, they should be very well done when 
boiled. They are nice broiled or baked with a 
sweet or Irish potato garnish; but boiled and 
served with sauerkraut is the great sparerib 
dish. 




A boneless and stuffed sparerib roll is a 
choice dish, but should be a specially cut spare- 
rib for boning. 

In ordering spareribs estimate one pound to 
the order, and in butchering cut into two pieces 
per portion. 

PORK LOINS 

Pork loins are generally graded as "light" 
and "heavy." The light weigh from six to nine 
pounds, and are generally considered the best 
and most profitable to use. They are apt to be 
of a better quality of pork, too. The nine- 
pound loin will produce about as many chops as 
the fourteen-pound loin, only they will be some- 
what smaller. 

The heavy loins weigh from ten to fourteen 
pounds, and generally sell for about one cent 
less per pound than the light loins. The 
heavier the hog, the fatter it will be, as a rule. 
The heavy hog carcass will often run as high 
as fifty-five per cent fat. In the light hog 
carcass it will run as low as twenty per cent 
fat. 

Another kind of loins are those known as the 
rib back or boned loined. They have the ten- 
derloin removed, and the backbone trimmed off. 
Usually these are of the heavy grade of loins; 
and about all the smoked pork loins are made 
of these. 

Smoked pork loins are in good demand, espe- 
cially for a German special, where it is listed 
on the bill of fare as 

Kassler Rippchen with red cabbage (or spin- 
ach, or sauerkraut). 

There is also an imported German Kassler 
Rippchen. The German brand consists of the 
whole side of a medium-sized hog with the head 
and hams removed, all the bone in. 

The boned loin sells for about one cent less 
per pound than the regular pork loin. 

To butcher pork chops: First remove the 





Fresh pork spareribs, half sheets. 



A — Pork Chop, loin end. 
B — Pork Chop, rib end. 






THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



41 





^^^^S^^ ^^m^^^ .... . ... 



ataaaaatfasstaBaSBMaBaa 



Standard Pork Loin. 



tenderloin and set it aside. Next cut apart the 
ribs and the loin where they join. Trim the 
back and chine bones from the rib part and 
cut into chops, allowing one rib to the chop. 
The loin part is best with only the chine bone 
removed. 

The regulation order of pork chops consists 
of one rib chop and one loin chop. 

For Roast Pork the loin should be trimmed the 
same way, leaving the two parts whole. 

Small pork loins weighing about three or 
four pounds are nice for a change. Serve three 
of these chops to an order and list as 

Little pig chops with mashed potatoes and 
own gravy. 

Little pig chops with fried apples and sweet 
potatoes. 

Little pig chops, country style, with corn 
fritters. 

Such dishes will give you a good change from 
the regular pork chop entree. 

FRESH HAMS 

Fresh hams may be had for about two cents 
less a pound than the cured hams. They have 
a small per cent of trimmings and can be used 
to advantage by the chef. As a roast they 
give a change from the regular roast loin of 
pork; and as an entree they are nice, especially 
in warm weather. While you might hesitate 
about listing roast pork on the bill, you would 
readily put on fresh ham out of the regular 
established season. For roasting or braising, 
'a ten to twelve pound ham is best. 

To prepare: Remove the skin and bones. 
In boning, operate from the lean inside of the 
ham, only cutting into the meat enough to re- 




move the ham bones. When boned, tie securely 
with heavy twine. 

Some fresh ham dishes: 

Braised fresh ham with red wine slaw 

Roast fresh ham with prune compote 

Boiled fresh ham with sauerkraut 

Braised fresh ham, Dixie style 

Fresh, ham steak, country gravy and mashed 
sweet potatoes 

Saged leg of fresh pork with browned sweet 
potatoes. 

I suggest the above only, but many other 
dishes may be made as the chef sees fit. 

Test on illustrated fresh ham, ten and a quarter 



pounds @ 14 cents = $1.43. 

ARTICLES Weight 

Lbs. Ozs. 

6 12 
2 
14 
10 



Ham roast 
Hock 
Bone 
Fat 



Per cent 

65.87 

19.51 
08.53 
06.09 



100.00 

The advantage of a fresh ham may be seen 
from this test : 66 % of clear meat with a useful 

hock and fat. 

* * * 

CHEEK MEAT 
Fresh cheek meat is rarely ordered by the 
chef. The meat packers make sausage, smoked 
jowl and head cheese of them. 




Fresh ham, boned and tied. 



Fresh Ham Steak. 



42 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 





B 



A — Pork Tenderloin, standard cut. 
B — Pork Tenderloin, French cut. 



In the South you will find what is called 
" Southern boiled dinner, " composed of pigs' 
head, tails, ears, snouts and backbones, with a 
combination of vegetables. Outside of the 
South it is rarely ever found. 

PORK TENDERLOINS 
The pork tenderloin has always been a great 
favorite. Of late their high price (about thirty- 
five cents a pound) has made them pretty much 
of a luxury. The general market supply is of 
an inferior quality and unsuitable size. That 
is owing to the fact that practically only the 
smallest and the biggest hogs are furnishing the 
supply. The medium-sized and choice hogs 
are used for the standard grades of pork loins, 
hence they are not stripped of their tenderloins. 
So it is that the tenderloins that you have op- 
portunity to buy are either too small or too 
large, and seldom of a prime quality. They 
are too lean, and generally have been frozen. 
If you are in a place that uses a lot of pork 
loins you have opportunity to save up for an 
occasional entree of first-class pork tenderloins; 
and, occasionally, you will find a dealer that 
will take an advance order and save you a lot 
of the best ones. The big packing houses gen- 
ially have the best of meat cuts, but here is 
one instance where they usually fall down. 

In butchering pork tenderloins most chefs 
prefer them split lengthwise with the grain, not 
quite cutting thru; then spread, beat with the 
cleaver, and score. Cut in this manner, the 
diner readily sees that he has a genuine pork 
tenderloin. 

The Large tenderloins are best cut across the 
fillet^ as you cut a beef tenderloin, and flattened, 
two fillets per portion. That is the most eco- 
nomical cut, and the meat is better served that 
way. 



You may list these as Mignons, Noisettes, or 
Tournedoes of pork tenderloin to placate the 
diner, and it also gives you that much change. 

"Pork tenderloin and sweet potatoes, Impe- 
rial": (For Imperial garnish, cut slices of 
boiled sweet potatoes and large apples of the 
same size. Cook them in sirup. Lay on platter 
alongside of the pork tenderloin, alternating 
one slice of sweet potato and one slice of apple, 
three slices of each. Pour over a fruit sauce 
of sirup and diced fruit with sultana raisins.) 

"Sweet potatoes, Imperial" may be served 
by themselves in this way and listed as a vege- 
table. 

It is. also a nice way to serve "Little pig 
chops. ' ' 

SALT PORK 

The salt pork is generally made of the fat 
back (No. 6 in diagram), and bellies (No. 9 in 
diagram) ; but there are many different cuts 
of salt pork. Some of them contain the loin 
and shoulders. 

The standard cuts of salt pork are: Clear 
Plate and Regular Plate. They are either dry- 
salt or sweet pickle cured. 

Larding pork is made of the fat backs. 

The standard brands of bacon are made of the 
hogs' bellies (No. 8 in diagram), but there are 
a variety of cuts. All of the big packing houses 
put up a leading brand of fancy bacon, as the 
"Supreme," "Star," "Premium" and "Ma- 
jestic" brands. These brands are made of se- 
lected size, and choice barrow hogs are used. 
They are dry cured, and for that reason will 
hold color and shape better when broiled. Hog 
bellies for such fancy brands of bacon require 
about 35 per cent trimming. The brisket is cut 
off back of the shoulder crease; back strapped, 
belly strapped and flank squared. It sells from 
twenty to thirty cents per pound. There are 
other grades not so choice or highly trimmed 
that sell for less. Each packing house has its 
own particular brands and cuts of these. 

In cutting the bacon, first flatten the strip 
by beating it well with the cleaver. Trim it of 
smoke colorings, and slice. 

To cut away the rind: Turn it with the skin 
side up. The skin is much easier removed in 



.>•< 



i 



i , -..•■-<'.•■'.■'.• a* :«" 
,7 ** % 

■•'" " > : 1] 

v . '' * '• y- . *-~ ■■■"-■,.. ::-'*<>■ ... ? 



Side of salt pork. 






THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



43 



this manner, and it will be more neatly and 
closely cut. When cut with the skin under 
yon are apt to leave a lot of the bacon attached 
to the rind. Six slices is the standard size 
order. 

There are many special and imported brands 
of bacon on the market, and as first-class Euro- 
pean plan hotels generally handle more or less 
of these, I will call attention to a few snch 
brands. One of the most famous of the im- 
ported brands of bacon is the Irish bacon; 
Mattison's "Shamrock" brand can always be 
had. Michael Altman, of John G. Neumeister 
Co., Chicago, has, at this writing, the American 
agency. This bacon is made of small hogs, and 
the pieces consist of the whole side of the hog, 
having the hams and head cut off:; but you can 
buy it in small .pieces by ordering the amount 
you want cut from the original piece. It has 
all the bone left in, and to slice it the saw must 
be used. It makes a fine novelty dish and is 
a good seller. 

Suggestions for Irish bacon dishes : 

Royal baked potato and grilled Irish bacon 
Boiled Shamrock bacon with spinach greens 
Country scrambled eggs and rasher of Irish 
bacon 

This bacon sells for about forty cents per 
pound, but for a la carte service that doesn't 
matter so much. In the American plan hotel 
of a few years back the chef had to keep within 
the rate of the hotel where employed. If he 
was chef of a five-dollar-a-day hotel he could 
have turkey every day, but if it was a two- 
dollar-a-day hotel turkey was seldom served. 
Under present conditions he is free to use any- 
thing that will sell, so it is advisable that he 
take advantage of his opportunity and use the 
rarer and more expensive meats occasionally for 
the sake of "class." 

"Wiltshire imported English bacon is much 
like the Shamrock Irish bacon, but is usually 
made from a larger hog and weighs about eighty 
pounds to the side piece; price about thirty- 
eight cents. 

A favorite imported bacon is the Westphalia. 
It comes in large heavy strips weighing twelve 
to fifteen pounds and sells at about thirty-six 
cents a pound. "Imported Hungarian Paprika 
Spec" is made of fat backs, the part com- 




monly used for larding pork. It is cut into 

narrow strips of three to four pounds each. 

and is coated with paprika pepper. (Not much 

relished except by foreigners.) 

Canada is famed for its pea-fed hog bacon, 

and Davies' products are well established in 

the States. This class of Canadian bacon sells 

for from thirty-five to fifty cents per pound. 

* * * 

Bacon teat. Bacon, 5 pound strip: 

106 slices 4 lbs. 6 ozs. 8 i . 50% 
Rind 10 ozs. 12.50% 



5 lbs. 
Bacon, 6!4 pound strip: 

130 slices 5 l A lbs. 
Rind 1 lb. 



6!4 lbs. 
Bacon, 6/4 pound strip: 

121 slices bVi lbs. 



Rind 



lb. 



100.00 

84.00°^ 
16.00% 

100.00 



S4.61°- 
15.39% 



6/2 lbs. 100.00 

To calculate per cent : Reduce to ounces when 
fractions of a pound, as, 14 pounds equals 224 
ounces. 

Three and one-half pounds equal 56 ounces. 
Fifty-six ounces divided into 224 ounces is 25 
per cent. 

Two and three-quarter pounds equal 44 
ounces, which, divided into 224 ounces, is 19.64 
per cent, etc. 

In examples of pounds divide by pounds. 




Bacon strip, standard, made from barrow hog. 



Diagram for cutting ham. 1— horseshoe; 2 -back 
roll; 3— hock; 4— end slices. 

The above ham used for illustration and test 
produced twenty-six slices of horseshoe ham and 



44 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 






D 



t 







^_i — 


X^- I 


L 


\ 




1 




A — First end slices of ham; B — Horseshoe end slices of ham; C — Horseshoe cut of ham; D — Ham 

back, boned, rolled and tied; E — Ham hock. 



eighteen small end slices, leaving the back for . 
slicing or boiling, and the hock. 

The best hams, like the bacon, are made from 
barrow hogs and weigh from fourteen to eight- 
een pounds. The choice is about fifteen pounds. 
The variations in weight will be more in the 
size than the number of portions. To handle a 
ham economically and well should be the aim 
of the chef. 

In the diagram I have divided the ham into 
four parts, first having trimmed the ham. You 
slice part No. 4 until you have reached the bone. 
Cut apart the slices, then cut out the horseshoe 
or No. 1 part, following the lines of the dia- 
gram. The top line cut should be square across 
and directly opposite the joint. That marks 
i lie extent of the hock, No. .'}. The idea is to 
leave you a full sized and meaty hock. Any 
extension of the horseshoe cut beyond that line 
only adds a small and gristly slice of ham and 
has injured the hock and robbed it of its value 
as a special dish, and has not added any to the 
value of the horseshoe cut. The hock, when 
properly cut, will supply two portions at least. 



" Sugar cured ham hocks and new spinach" 
is always a big hit on the bill, and. at forty 
cents or thereabouts an order, you have put 
eighty cents in the till. 

No. 2 is the back part and contains the bone. 
Cut apart the hock as indicated by the diagram. 
The back part can be used in various ways. It 
can be, and often is, used in connection with 
the hock, a part of each to each portion. As 
a special ham dish it is nice. Relieve it of the 
bone and tie securely, when it can be used as 
Cold ham and Ham sandwiches, or Braised and 
Boiled ham roll, with a suitable garnish. It 
can also be sliced for some special dishes, as 
" Raymond,' ' " Benedictine" and the different 
combinations where the horseshoe is not spe- 
cially needed. For the officers and the help that 
and No. 4 is the ham to use. 

You can also make a ham hash that generally 
sells well. Make it as you would a corned beef 
hash. Have the meat diced fine. 

Ham hash suggestions : 

Sugar cured ham hash with fried egg. 

Majestic ham hash with poached egg. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



45 



Test on illustrated ham. Ham, fourteen pounds 
@ 16 cents = $2.24: 

ARTICLES Weight Per cent 

Horseshoe 3^ 25.00 

Back roll 2 3 A 19.64 

End slices 2 3 A 19.64 

Hock %Vz 17.96 

Fat l/ 2 10.72 

Bone 1 07.14 



14 


100.00 


* * * 




Ham test. 14/4 pound ham: 




ARTICLES Weight 


Per cent 


32 slices, ends 3% 


26.32 


28 slices, horse shoe 4 34 


29.82 


Hock 2 


14.04 


Trimmings, bones, 




and fat 4 14 


29.82 



14 K 100.00 

* * * 

SKINNED HAMS 
All the packing houses have a skinned brand 
of hams, but they are generally of the heavy 
grade ; so I infer the skinned hams are to reduce 
them to a more marketable weight, and for the 
lard. Still there are some who prefer them. 

SHOULDER HAMS 

The Picnic or California ham is made of' the 
shoulder of pork and sells for about five cents 
less than the others. The packers put up a 
brand of boned picnic hams; also, in some 
places, picnic hams are bought for the help's 
hall ; for in these days of more perfect meat cuts 
and European plan service, the chef is often 
compelled to order special supplies of meat for 
the help. 

PROSCIUTTI HAMS 

Prosciutti or Italian cured hams are similar 
to the imported Westphalian ham. About all 
the leading packers make this brand. It is 
dry salt, pressed flat, and unsmoked; should be 



well aged and dry to be at its best. It is sliced 
lengthwise of the ham, cut very thin, and eaten 
raw like the Westphalian ham. . It is in order 
for the chef to list it as Westphalian. 

IRISH HAMS 

The Mattison Co., of Ireland, put up a 
Shamrock brand of hams. They have a char- 
acter and flavor all their own, and offer the 
chef an added dish for his list. They sell for 
about forty cents per pound. 

HAM STEAK 

"Ham steak" makes a nice entree. They are 
cut in rather thick slices. Some use about a 
ten or twelve-pound ham and cut across the 
whole ham. Others only use the horseshoe part, 
cutting a thick slice therefrom. 

Ham steak suggestions: 

Ham steak and German fried sweet potatoes. 

Ham steak with spinach patty and mashed 
potatoes. 

Combination ham steak, Othello. 

Grilled ham steak, sweet potato chips. 

IMPORTED WESTPHALIA HAMS 

The Westphalia is one of the most charac- 
teristic and famous of hams. It is generally 
served raw, cut in very thin slices. There are 
three classes of Westphalia hams, the kugel 
cut, the boneless, and rolled, and the regulation 
ham. The boned sells for five cents a pound 
more than the regular ham, and the kugel about 
one cent more. The normal price of these 
hams is about forty cents per pound. They 
come from Westphalia, a province of Prussia. 

Milwaukee, famous for so many good things 
to eat and drink, is also famed for a brand of 
Westphalian hams put up by L. Frank Co., and 
which is said to rank equal to the imported. 
VIRGINIA OR PEANUT HAM 

The Smithfield Virginia ham, sometimes 
called Peanut ham, is one of the most famous 
of American food dishes. They are made from 
the razorback breed of hogs. These hogs are 





A— Ham Steak, full section cut. 



B — Ham Steak, horse shoe section cut. 



46 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Milk pig. 



not strictly fed on peanuts, as is generally sup- 
posed. They are pastured in the peanut fields 
after the crop has been harvested. There they 
dig' up the roots of the plants and the small 
nuts left by the harvesters and fatten on them. 
The hams weigh from six to fourteen pounds. A 
twelve-pound ham is the most profitable size 
for the hotel or restaurant. 

In curing these hams they are first rubbed 
with saltpeter and salt; then they are packed 
in salt, the large ones for about forty days and 
the small ones about thiry-five days. Then 
they are washed ; then smoked to a nice color 
over a slow hickory wood fire for about six 
hours a day for about a week. After this they 
are rubbed with black molasses, and black pep- 
per and left to hang for about a year, the whole 
process requiring over a year; and they im- 
prove with age up to three years, which is con- 
sidered a prime age. Should they become in- 
fected with skippers, they are buried in the 
ground to kill the skippers. It is a mistaken 
impression that burying the ham in the ground 
is a regular part of the curing process, as 
they are only buried for the above reason. So 
many believe that Virginia hams are buried reg- 
ularly on account of their dirty appearance. 
That comes from the molasses and black pepper, 
and in handling they come in contact with the 
soil at times, which sticks to them. 

They should be soaked in cold water for at 
least a day; and in boiling, estimate a half hour 
to each pound of ham; then remove from the 
fire and let cool in the water boiled in. To 
steam is to spoil them. 

For the garde manger they are best boned, 
a Iter having been boiled, rolled in a towel and 
pressed. When slicing the raw ham for broiling 
or living do not "block," as with the ordinary 
sugar cured ham, but cut thru the whole ham, 
sawing the bones. They rank as a best seller 
when Listed on the bill of fare. 

Virginia ham suggestions: 

Boiled Virginia ham with leaf spinach. 

Braised peanut ham with candied sweet po- 
tatoes. 

Virginia ham glace, Washington style. 



Virginia ham and eggs, country style. 
Combination boneless Virgina ham and sliced 

turkey. 

With the trimmings (suggestions) : 
Omelette with minced Virginia ham 
Flaked Virginia ham and scrambled eggs, or, 

as the chef sees fit. 

There are various brands of Virginia ham on 
the market. The Todd, Tip-Top, Jordans, 
Smithfield, and Rocky Farm are some of the 
leading brands. Some of the Chicago packers 
put up brands of Virginia cured hams. 

PRAGER HAMS 

The Prager is a high-class imported German 
ham and particularly adaptable for the garde 
manger. They are canned hams, each can con- 
taining one whole ham and weighing from ten 
to twelve pounds. They are so renowned and 
novel that the chef regards them highly. Hav- 
ing been cooked in the sealed can and become 
surrounded in gelee, they have an individuality 
all their own that charms the jaded summer 
appetite. They undergo a four months ' dry salt 
cure, and are a good keeper. Fifty cents per 
pound is about the price for them. 

LACH SCHINKEN 

Another classy and favorite German brand 
of hams that comes from Milwaukee is the Lach 
Schinken, or fillet of boneless ham. This ham, 
like the Westphalian, is generally eaten raw, 
but is suitable for cooking. It comes in casings 
of four or five pounds, and about four inches 
in diameter. It commands about thirty-five 
cents per pound. 

REINDEER HAMS 
A good novelty ham and a nice one for the 
garde manger in the summer months is the im- 
ported Norwegian reindeer ham. It sells for 
about fifty cents per pound. They are gen- 
erally used the same as Virginia hams. 

ROASTING PIGS 
These little pigs come in two classes, the little 
milk fed and the large. The little milk fed 
pigs weigh from eight to fifteen pounds, and 
are sold by the piece, from three to four dol- 
lars each. They make a nice roast, and are in 






X 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MANGER A\D CARVER 



47 



good demand'. They can be roasted split in 
two, or left whole and stuffed with liver, sage, 
apple or chestnut dressing, and garnished with 
a browned sweet or Irish potato, and served with 
a side dish of apple, rhubarb, or gooseberry 
sauce, or a baked apple. 

The next class are larger and weigh from 
eighteen to thirty pounds, and sell at from 
fourteen to sixteen cents per pound. 

Most dmers prefer their roast pig well done, 
with a nice brown color, and the skin crisp. 
For that reason the large pigs should be 
butchered into small cuts. First cut off the 
head (the head not being desirable for roast, 
you can make a cheese of it). Next cut off the 
hams, dividing the two, and boning them, pref- 
erably, for economical carving. Then remove 
the shoulders and bone, too, being careful not 
to cut the meat more than is necessary to re- 
move the bone. Now divide the remainder in 
two parts, splitting thru the backbone. Next 
cut apart the belly, leaving the loin a fair 
width. The loin part should be divided into 
two parts, leaving the rib end to one part and 
the loin end to the other. Cut in this manner, 
you can give the pig a perfect roast, and carve 
it to the fullest advantage. 

PIGS' FEET. 

Pigs' feet are quite an American favorite. It 
is often cited as "The dish that made Chicago 
famous." Much of the commercial supply of 
pickled pigs' feet is of an inferior order. They 
are often extremely underdone to preserve their 
shape, and otherwise objectionable. Some pack- 
ers make a specialty of pigs ' feet that are prop- 
erly cooked and preserved in a palatable pickle, 
but the discriminating chef confines himself to 
the fresh article and pickles them to his taste, 
or, as is more often the case, serves them as 
"fresh pigs' feet" dishes, which are the most 
preferred by diners. 

To make a good job of boiled pigs' feet re- 
quires a special knack and care, otherwise they 
will become drawn and broken. 

After being thoroly well cleaned and freed of 
hair, cut loose the cords at the knee joint and 
give them the most gentle and easy boiling pos- 
sible,— not at the full boiling heat. 

To do the best work : After cutting loose the 
cords wrap each foot separately and tightly in 
a cloth, tie securely, place in a steamer and cook 
with just as little steam as is absolutely needed 
to cook them. 

Many profitable and good selling dishes may 
be made of pigs' feet, such as: 

Broiled fresh pigs' feet and fried sweet po- 
tatoes. 

Pigs' feet, Ste. Menehould. 




48 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



Stuffed boneless pigs' feet, Gastronome. 
Old-fashioned soused pigs' feet. 
Cold boneless pigs' feet, Waldorf salad. 
Fried fresh pigs' feet, sauce Magenta. 

PIGS' TAILS AND SNOUTS 
Variety is one of the most commendable qual- 
ities of the chef, and he should not overlook any 
dish that will add to the variety of his bill of 
fare. 

Pigs' tails and snouts are neglected in this 
country. There seems to be a prejudice against 
them here. In most European countries they 
are commonly used and relished. The Germans 
give them the most justice. Swina Sulze is a 
popular German dish. It is made of pigs' tails, 
snouts, and feet served cold in aspic from the 
meat. The French serve them poulette and vina- 
grette style. They are nice in a ragout with 
potato dumplings, or boiled with sauerkraut. 
Owing to their neglected condition they may 
be bought cheap. 



Fifty-Fifty 

Much of the chef's success depends on his 
ability to correctly estimate and order his sup- 
plies. To do this well is a prime requisite and 
calls for systematic study and method. Gener- 
ally years of study and practice are needed to 
develop this faculty to a successful degree. In 
every meal, party or banquet he is confronted 
with this problem. 

The employer of today wants you to make 
"50-50." That is, on a gross business of 
twelve thousand dollars a month, your total 
issues should be six thousand dollars. There 
are times when the volume of business is so 
small and the fixed expenditures are so large 
that it is impossible to attain these figures; 
but that is recognized and accepted by your 
employer. Under normal and favorable condi- 
tions tho, the chef must make good or he is 
going to lose his place. 

Too often the chef depends on his ability 
to guess, off-hand, what he needs. He can do 
much better by applying some exact system or 
method of calculating his needs and keep a 
memoranda of such data for future reference. 
In the course of time he will have the ground 
well covered and there will be less and less 
memoranda required. These notes, with his 
well trained mind, will make him an expert. 

To illustrate the principles of a system,* I 
will cite some examples ol* a method I employ 
in my work; but il is best, and necessary, that 

each individual make his own tests and memo- 
randa, if for no other reason than to train his 
mind. We think more of the dollar that we 
have sweated for than the one that has come 



without effort; and then, too, it is a singular 
fact, that our individuality enters into every- 
thing we do, so that, given the same turkey, the 
same tenderloin, or the same fish, hardly any 
two cooks will attain the same results. So test 
yourself out and accept no other's word, and, 
like the dollar earned, it will have real educa- 
tional and lasting value. 

In estimating soup, I allow for twenty-four 
portions to the gallon ; and you will find that 
about the average number of cups or plates 
generally served from one gallon. Don't meas- 
ure with a gallon vegetable can, as they are three 
to four cups short of a full gallon. With this 
as a basis of computation it is easy to figure 
the amount you may need for a banquet, and 
it is a good guide for your carte du jour needs. 

This system of estimating can be carried thru 
the whole bill of fare, and is necessary for 
accurate and successful work. In figuring on 
roast meats, such as turkey, chicken, larded 
tenderloin, etc., keep a record of your work 
and find how much you use on an average to 
the order; so that when you wish to order for 
a certain number, you can tell to a pound what 
you will need. As you gather data and figures 
keep them for reference, to-wit : 

1 gallon soup, 24 portions. 

Roast turkey, f lb. to an order. 

Roast duck, 1 lb. to an order. 

Roast tenderloin, | lb. to an order. 

Broiled whitefish, f lb. to an order. 

Fried black bass, 1 lb. to an order. 

Filet of sole, -| lb. to an order. 

1 gallon olives, average size, 300. 

1 bushel potatoes, 150 orders French fry; 
or 200 orders mashed potato; or 250 orders 
Saratoga chips; or 400 croquettes, and so on. 

The chef who knows what his supplies should 
produce is not so apt to overlook extravagance 
and waste, and he is able to intelligently instruct 
his help. 

The more intimate knowledge you have of 
quantities the higher your appreciation of values 
will be, and the better able you will be to fix 
prices for your different dishes — a factor that 
largely determines 50-50. 

Frank Rivers. 



Do not be limited to weights and measures. 
Rosa Bonheur did not paint "The Horse Fair" 
with one cup while paint, two cups red paint, 
and hall' a en]) of blue. Neither did Escof'fier 
produce "Supreme of Chicken, Jeanette" on 
that principle. Cooking is an ait: an inspira- 
tion thai comes from the mind and heart where 
spoons and scales do not reach. Just because 
you did not see it in Tom, Dick, or Harry's 
Book is no reason why you should not adopt an 
idea of your own. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



40 



MUTTON 

A mutton carcass has four major cuts as il- 
lustrated in Figure A. 

Figure B illustrates the hotel rack cut, No. 3. 

A sheep has thirteen ribs to each side, same as 
a beef carcass. Two or three are left to No. 5 
in standard cuts and oftentimes one rib is left 
to No. 2, the loin. 

The standard cuts are: 



No. 


-! 


Saddle 
Racks 


50% 
50% 

100% 


No. 


H 


Saddles 
Hotel rack 
Chuck 


50% 
12% 

38% 

100% 


No. 


f 
1 


Legs 
Loins 
Chuck 
Hotel rack 


30% 
20% 

38% 
12% 

100% 


No. 


«l 


Legs 

Loins 

Rack 


34% 
16% 
50% 

100% 


No. 


•1 


Long hind saddle 62% 
Chuck 38% 



100% 

* * * 

The above cuts are all commonly made by the 
Chicago packers to meet the demands of vari- 
ous localities. 

The long hind saddle contains the legs, loin 
and rack, and is known as the "Murdock cut." 
It is in demand in some sections of the country. 

The "Saddle" cut is the hind quarters con- 
taining the legs and loin, and is fifty per cent 
of the sheep. I mention this fact, as I have no- 
ticed that many call the loin, No. 2, the saddle. 
There is conflicting authority "as to what consti- 
tutes a saddle of mutton. I have adopted the 
Chicago packing house authority. In England 
what we term the "saddle" is known as the 
1 baron, ' ' and what we call the loin, they call the 
saddle. Ranhofer describes and illustrates a 
loin as a saddle or baron. The English and 
New York adaptation is common among cooks. 

The weight of sheep is from fifty to eighty 
pounds, but there are some heavier, and many 
prefer them. The best weight of sheep for 
ordinary use is sixty to seventy pounds. Like 
beef, mutton is generally preferred aged. 

Sheep are of three classes : the wether, which 
corresponds with the steer; the females, or ewes, 




1— Legs. 
2 — Loin. 
3— Rack. 
4— Brisket. 
5— Shoulders. 

Diagram of 



A — Diagram of whole sheep carcass; B 
side of sheep carcass. 



and the bucks. Until about a year ago (1914), 
the wethers were quite plentiful, but since then 
they constitute only about five per cent of the 
mutton supply. Changed conditions have 
brought this about. They are now mostly mar- 
keted as spring or yearling lambs, or saved for 
wool production. 

With the improvement of sheep breed, the 
ewes of today produce a better mutton than the 
wethers of the past. Anyway, the wethers are 
not a dependable market commodity. The buck 
is undesirable as a choice food. You can easily 
detect it. The texture of the flesh is coarse. It 
is large. The bones are extremely hard and 
brittle. The fat turns yellow, and in cooking it 
emits an offensive, rank odor. 



50 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MAXGER AND CARVER 



CARCASS SHEEP IN SMALL CUTS 





Per cent 




Price 


Amount 


Legs 


20.34 


@ 


9H 


193.23 


Loin Chops 


20.34 


@ 


12 


244.08 


Fat 


3.39 


© 


sy 2 


11.87 


Flanks 


3.39 


@ 


ty 2 


15.26 


French Chops 


20.34 


® 


14 


284.76 


Stew 


30.50 


© 


5 


152.50 


Shrinkage 


1.70 




.... 





100.00% 



FORES SHEEP 



French Chops 

Stew 

Shrinkage 



Per cent 

39.34 

59.01 

1.65 

100.00% 



Price 

® 14 
® 5 



9.01.70 



Amount 

550.76 

295.05 



8.45.81 



HINDS SHEEP 





Per cent 




Price 


Amount 


Legs 


42.11 


© 


VA 


400.05 


Loin Chops 


42.11 


@ 


12 


505.32 


Flanks 


7.01 


@ 


4^ 


31.54 


Fat 


7.02 


® 


w 


24.57 


Shrinkage 


1.75 


@ 


- 






100.00% 


961.48 




Per cent 




Price 


Amount 


Fore Quarters 


51.69 


@ 


8.45 


436.78 


Hind Quarters 


48.31 


<5 


9.61 


464.25 



100.00% 9.01.03 

This test is from a one hundred pounds basis. 



The chef does not confine his uses of mutton 
to any particular cut. Some find the greatest 
advantage in buying the whole sheep — at least 
as much as they can handle in that way— and 
piecing out with as many special cut orders as 
may be needed. I favor buying the whole sheep, 
as all parts of the sheep sell equally well, except 
the lack, which is a leading staple. There is a 
money advantage in buying the whole sheep 
over the special cuts, and it is up to the chef 
to realize the advantage in the compiling of his 
bill of fare. 

He can serve the loin in a lot of tempting 
ways, as: 

Merchants combination loin mutton chops. 

Loin mutton chops saute with kidney. 

Berkshire mutton chop with special baked 
potato. 

Braised saddle of mutton, Britannia. 

Casserole of English chops with peas and 
turnips. 



With such entrees you can always use the loin 
of a whole sheep. 

For the chuck, what sells better than 

Old fashioned Irish stew with dumplings. 

Savory mutton pie, English style. 

Ragout of mutton brisket with fancy vege- 
tables. 

Creole stew of young mutton with rice in 
form. 

These suggestions for salable and profitable 
stews may be extended as the chef elects. 

The legs have little bone trimmings, but in 
boiling will shrink from a quarter to a third, 
depending on how well done it is cooked. They 
are nice and popular as a roast, or boiled. 

Combination dishes are in great demand and 
favor with the European plan patron, and the 
leg of mutton is well suited to that. For in- 
stance, such combinations as : 

Boiled leg of mutton with mashed turnips, 
caper sauce. 

Leg of mutton with curry sauce and Carolina 
rice. 

Boiled leg of mutton, chopped sauce, and 
creamed kohl-rabi. 

Boiled leg of mutton, family style. 

The last named is featured at one of Chica- 
go 's leading hotels. They serve it in a casserole. 
The mutton and a garnish of mixed vegetables, 
potatoes, onions, turnips, carrots and leeks, are 
placed in the casserole and then covered with 
the broth, which has been reduced and enriched, 
and is first served the guest as a soup. A side 
dish of caper sauce, and one of bean salad, is 
served, making soup, meat, vegetables, and 
salad, all in one combination. 

Another advantage of whole mutton is the 
supply of help's meat it affords; while the 
shoulder can be served as an entree in various 
acceptable ways. It is the cut for the helps' 
hall, generally, and the neck and briskets make 
a nice stew for them. 

In butchering a sheep : first cut off the leg 
bones above the knee joint, trimming the legs 
and shoulders as you do the French chop, mak- 
ing a handle. Save the trimmings for Scotch 
broth or stew. 

Next, remove the shoulders, being careful not 
to remove the cover from the rack any more 
than necessary. Bone the shoulder, leaving 
only enuf handle bone with enuf meat at- 
tached to the shoulder to secure it; then tightly 
tie it, forming a firm even roll. You cannot 
make a neat or economical carving of the shoul- 
der if you cook it with the bone in. 

Next, cut off the legs flush with the end of the 
hip-bone. Make this cut carefully, as a perfect 
cut of the loin depends upon it. Locate the 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MAXGER AXD CARVER 



51 




A — Cut of trimmed rack from sheep carcass. 




B — Shoulder of sheep carcass, boned and tied. 




C — Leg from sheep carcass. (This joint will be unfamiliar to most cooks because the model cut com- 
prises full extent of leg, and does not leave any to loin of sheep, which is customary in market-cut 
legs.) 



position of the hip bone accurately by jabbing 
with the point of the boning knife. If the sheep 
is not too fat, you can locate it with the thumb. 
After cutting apart the legs, remove the super- 
fluous fat, and that part of the hip bone at- 
tached to the legs, and tie the boned end of the 
legs. 

Xext, cut off the loin ; but do not include any 
rib, unless the first rack rib is too short for a 
French chop, which is sometimes the case. Leave 
the flank on the loin if you want to make a 



" belted' ? English chop, which I will describe 
later in English chop cutting. 

The loin of perfect cut here illustrated 
weighed fourteen pounds, cut from a ninety- 
pound sheep, as compared with the market cuts 
weighing eighteen to twenty pounds and usually 
from lighter sheep. 

The next cuts are to separate the neck, then 
the briskets. 

Cut off the neck outside the last rib, making a 
full or thirteen-rib rack. 



52 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




D — Brisket from carcass sheep (used commonly for stews), 



In removing the briskets, first carefully meas- 
ure and mark the width necessary for a French 
chop, which is six inches. Then remove them 
with the saw. This is different from the market 
cut rack; but cutting 1 it from the carcass your- 
self, you naturally would make the most perfect 
cut. The extra shoulder chops can be used as 
''Breaded mutton cutlets," or as Officers' chops. 

MUTTON RACKS 

The standard size for Mutton and Lamb racks 
is nine and ten ribs long and eight inches wide; 
but they will vary from this some, especially 
if not received from the leading packing houses. 
Some buyers contract for a certain shoulder 
trim, number of ribs, and width of rack. 



The weight of the rack is important, for no 
matter what weight a ten-rib rack is, you will 
only get an even number of chops from it, under 
even conditions. The choice rests with each par- 
ticular establishment. Some choose the heaviest 
lamb and mutton racks, while others prefer a 
lighter grade. The weight of the average mut- 
ton rack is twelve to fourteen pounds (hotel 
cut). It is best to buy the double racks. They 
are much easier and better cutting, and for 
keeping they excel. 

French chops are of two classes, the " cov- 
ered" and the ''uncovered." The covered is 
the choice, and the only one used for broiled 
a la carte chops in some places; the uncovered 




E — Loin cut of sheep. (The cut illustrated Is from a ninety-pound sheep trimmed of kidney and flank, 
the loin weighing fourteen pounds, as compared with market-cut loins weighing from eighteen to twenty 
pounds). 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MAXGER AXD CARVER 



53 



ones being reserved for some special use, such 
as breaded or stuffed. In many places one cov- 
ered, and one uncovered are served to an a la 
carte order, but you are inviting a complaint 
from the diner when you do so. The uncovered 
chop is formed by the removal of the shoulder, 
the blade of which lies over a part of the rack, 
and when removed, leaves a part of the rack 
bare, the extent of which depends upon how 
poorly or well the shoulder was removed. 

Some chefs order their racks with the shoulder 
blade in, to be properly removed by themselves. 
The average packing house shoulder trim is 
faulty. They cut the cover from one or two 
chops more than they should. 

Figure A illustrates the proper trim. The 
part of the shoulder blade that extended under 
the cover was carefully boned out, making a 
narrow and least injurious shoulder trim. 

Figure B illustrates the average market trim, 
in which parts of the shoulder blade still re- 
main; four chops uncovered, as compared with 
the two uncovered chops in Figure A. 

The average width of a market trimmed rack 
is about eight inches— two inches wider than the 
six-inch cut made of the carcass sheep, which is 
the standard length of a French chop. 

In cutting a mutton rack: first separate the 
two racks by running the knife close to the back- 
bone on both sides for its full length; cutting 
from the outside. Then turn the rack about, and 
from the inside cleave the backbone at both sides 
with the cleaver, thus removing the backbone. 
Do this carefully so as not to injure the heart 
of the chop. Next, measure off the French chop. 
Allow four inches for the chop, heart and flank, 
and one and a half or two inches for the stem or 
handle. That leaves two niches for stew trim- 
mings. 

If it is an eight-inch rack, cut across with the 
knife down to the rib bones, at the four-inch 
line, and at the six-inch line ; then with a cleavei 
chop off the stew trimmings at the six-inch line. 
Then remove the cover on handles from four- 
inch line to six-inch line or end, and trim the 
stems. 

By following these directions you will have 
an even trimmed and shapely chop. It is exact 
and quickly done. You get all the stew pieces in 
two parts, the piece over six inches long, and 
the stem cover. 

Leave the chops as prepared in Fig. C, only 
separating the chops as they are ordered. 

Different houses separate the chops in differ- 
ent ways. Some cut them one rib to the chop in 
thickness; others cut them two ribs to the chop, 
removing one rib bone. There will be two or 



Test of illustrated sheep. Weight ninety pounds 
® 12 cents = $10.80. It cut up as follows : 



ARTICLES Weight 

Legs, trimmed 19J4 

Loin 14 

Rack, trimmed 1034 

Neck 5 

Shoulders, trimmed 
Breast 
Bones 
Tallow 
Stew 



10 
10 l A 

w 

i 

12 

9 



Per cent 
22.04 
15.55 
11.25 
05.55 
11.09 
11.15 
07.77 
13.38 
02.22 



90 100.00 

I have not classed the standard mutton stew 
cuts as such, preferring to test the neck, breasts 
and shoulders as they are, for they are quite as 
useful for other dishes as for stews. Classed 
as stew, they compose about 25 per cent of the 
carcass. 




Full mutton rack. 




Fig. A. Lamb rack with model shoulder trim. 




Fig. B. Market trimmed rack with faulty 
shoulder trim. 



54 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




FOR 



cH oPS ' 



fc ^ < 



F o« 



ST&&' 






fKO 



if" - 



A — First process of trimming a mutton rack. The chop part is indicated by the section marked "four 

inches wide." 

The section marked "for stews" and "two inches wide" is the stem or handle section. (The upper part 

of it is removed from the bones for stews.) 

The section marked "Trimmings from a market rack, for stews" is separated from the piece entirely by 

cleaver. 

The line marked "six-inch incision," and the line marked "four-inch incision," running lengthwise of the 

rack, indicate the lines of cut. 





B — Second process: Stems uncovered, but not 
trimmed. (Shows market trim of rack, four chops 
uncovered.) 

D — Indicates cover taken from the stem or 
handle section of the rack. (That part marked 
"two-Inches wide" on Diagram A.) 

E — Trimmings from market cut rack, as Indicated 
on diagram A. (With this process of cutting the 
rack, at least one order of stew is saved, which 
should be worth from thirty to forty cents.) 



three uncovered chops. Some use these for 
a la carte; others use only the covered chop. 
LOIN OF MUTTON 
The loin, marked "2" in Carcass B, is the 
most valuable part of the sheep, and usually 
sells for two or three cents more than the rack. 
It has a larger per cent of trimming than the 
rack. It contains a lot of fat and has a very 
faulty or money cut. By * ' money cut ' ' I mean, 
the packer cuts his carcass so as to return him 
the most money profit, and the consequent money 
loss to the consumer. The perfect cut loin is 
the one described in the sheep carcass cutting. 
The market loin cut made by the packers is 
made to include from one to four inches of the 
butt, or what properly belongs to the leg of 
mutton. This extension back of the hip bone 
makes a very inferior English chop, and most 




C — Completed and model trimmed rack, 
two chops uncovered.) 



(Showing 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



55 




Uncovered Lamb Chop. 



chefs hesitate to serve it as such, as it is almost 
certain to cause a complaint. This butt chop 
contains a lot of bone lying diagonally across 
the chop; and with the bone in, you would not 
dare to serve it ; while if you bone it, it becomes 
a ragged, lean, and unsightly chop. When using 
the loin for an entree, served whole or boned, 
this defect is not quite so serious. 

To prepare a boned loin of mutton for an 
entree : 

Two waj's are commonly practiced. In one 





Covered Lamb Chop. 



Butt trimmed from sheep loin. This is not avail- 
able for English mutton chop because of its surplus 
of bone. It properly belongs to leg of mutton. (The 
piece illustrated weighed three and a half pounds.) 



it is divided into two parts, then folded and se- 
curely tied, and termed a "fillet of mutton. " 

The other is to remove the bone, beginning 
from the inside, and leaving the loin whole, 
folded and tied. 

In serving it with the bone in, the slices are cut 
and sawed across the whole loin in some cases, 
and in others the meat is carved in slices from 
the loin without cutting the bone. 

ENGLISH MUTTON CHOP 

There are several different ways of cutting 
English mutton chops commonly practiced. The 
most common one is the belted chop. To cut 
this chop, it is best that the flank be left on the 
loin. You first cut the loin in two, removing the 
backbone, but leaving the short rib or vertebrae 
bones in. Then divide each half into four, five 
or six pieces of one to the chop, depending upon 
the size of the chops and the loin, and whether 
you use the butt or not. Some cut them even 
smaller. Then, taking each piece separately, 
you trim off some of the fat (if it has an excess) ; 
then you wrap the flank part around the chop 






56 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




English Mutton Chop (with kidney In). 




Regular English Mutton Chop, strapped or belted. 
Kidney to be attached to this. (Standard weight 
of English mutton chop is one pound.) 




Split English Mutton Chop. 




English Mutton Chop, Berkshire cut. 

which straps it, and holds its shape; then you 
wrap in a stout towel and beat well with the 
cleaver, after which you skewer it; when it is 
ready for the broiler. 

Another cut is the " Split English mutton 
chop." This is a nice chop to serve, and is a 
"good looker." It is more quickly cooked, and 
the fat docs Qoi become charred. The loin is cut 




Berkshire Mutton Chop, garnished with kidney and 
strip of bacon. 

into half loins with the backbone removed and 
the flank cut off. Then cut into pieces chop size ; 
after which they are split thru the middle, leav- 
ing a firm connection of the split parts on both 
ends, — the backbone end, and the flank end. 
This split chop is then spread flat, wrapped in 
a towel, and well beaten, when it is ready for 
the broiler. This is a dandy chop, and the one I 
like best. Care must be taken not to cut the con- 
nections too much ; and if you meet with a bone, 
tap it lightly with the cleaver in order to make 
the proper split. This chop will cook in fifteen 
minutes, while the regulation chop requires thirty 
minutes. 

THE BERKSHIRE ENGLISH CHOP 

This chop is cut in sections across the whole 
loin, and about half the thickness of the regular 
English chop, the bones in and sawed. Then 
the flanks are folded in, wrapped in a towel and 
beaten ; then skewered, making an oblong shaped 
chop, and a good cooking novelty entree for the 
carte du jour. It is named the "Old fashioned 
English chop" at times. 

THE DEVONSHIRE ENGLISH CHOP 

This is cut like the Berkshire, but it is not 
folded nor skewered. It, too, is a good entree 
special, cooks quickly, covers the platter nicely, 
and with a nice garnish, is a good seller. 

These last three chops are well suited to com- 
bination a la carte specials in European plan 
service. 

Note: No English mutton chop is complete 
without a broiled kidney served as a part of the 
garnish. Some broil the kidney whole enfolded 
in the chop. Others split and broil the kidney 
and serve on top of the chop. 




English Mutton Chop, Devonshire cut. (Kidney to 
be attached.) 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



57 



SPRING LAMBS 

Spring lambs may be had for about nine 
months of the year, beginning with the " hot- 
house' ' lambs at Christmas time and extending 
to October. But the real staple spring lamb 
season begins at Easter time and continues until 
July, making about three months' spring lamb 
season. 

Spring lambs are sold with the pelt, pluck 
(pluck is the liver, lungs, and heart) and caul 
fat left on. These lambs are sold by the piece, 
and in price they will range from about $12.00 
each for the Easter lambs, and sell off: to the 
end of the season, down to four or five dollars 
each. 

In weight they will run from eighteen to thirty 
pounds dressed, and when butchered and carved 
to best advantage will produce about one por- 
tion to the pound when cut in generous portions. 

In some places they serve extra large portions 
and therefore get fewer orders. Genuine spring 
lamb is customarily priced at from sixty to 
seventy-five cents. Some places charge more, 
especially at Easter time. 

You cannot devote too much attention to the 
butchering, roasting and carving of a spring 
lamb. 

To butcher a spring lamb to best advantage : 
Detach the shoulders, then bone and tie them in 
firm even rolls. Don't make the mistake of 
roasting the shoulders with the bone in, as I 
have often seen done. It not only is wasteful 
of the meat, but makes a scrappy piece of it 
when carved. Neither will it roast well in that 
condition. 

After cutting off the legs, remove the hip bone 
and tie it securely. Some prefer to remove all 
the bone from the leg for roasting, and tieing it 
in an even-sized roll; for in " blocking" the 
unboned roast leg, you cannot avoid a certain 
amount of scrap pieces, which is largely over- 
come in the full-boned leg. Next, remove the 
loin, and make two folded and tied pieces of it, 
removing the backbone. Then separate the neck 
(which part is at times included in the roast, 
while some chefs reserve it for a lamb stew 
along with the brisket). In roasting, bone and 
tie it. In cutting off the briskets leave about 
four and a half inches in width to the rack. 
Trim the briskets of excessive breast bone. Split 
the rack into two parts, removing the backbone. 

A genuine spring lamb needs as careful roast- 
ing as it does butchering. It is very delicate 
meat, and suffers a lot from shrinkage and dry- 
ing; so don't roast it until the last minute, and 
then in a good brisk oven. Roast it about half 
an hour before it is to be served ; and if you are 




Baby spring lamb. 



roasting several, roast them as they are needed, 
as is usually done with spring chickens. To roast 
them too much is fatal, as they will break in 
carving; and in order to piece them nicely, you 
will have to cut bigger pieces when too well 
done. 

A lot of places do not have this grade of 
lamb, as they are too expensive. In places that 



58 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 





Neck 




Loin 



Illustrating model cuts of yearling lamb, showing: theboned and tied; rack with proper trim; the brisket; a 
leg boned and tied; neck bcned and tied; shouldernd the loin trimmed and tied. 



do serve tliem they are one of the swellest ar- 
ticles the chef has, and they make a long list of 
fine dishes. I will cite a few : 

Fillet of hot house lamb, Tetrazzini. 
Noisettes of baby lamb, Archduke. 
Tournadoes of milk-fed lamb, Mascotte. 
Trio of baby lamb chops, en brochette. 
Casserole of English lamb chops, Renaissance. 
The Clubman's combination Easter lamb 
chops. 

These are all suited to quick-order specials. 

* * * 

Baby spring lamb test, made at Hotel Sherman, 
Chicago; used for spring lamb illustrations. 



it with pelt, 


27 V% pounds, 


price $6.00. 


ARTICLES 


Weight 


Per cent 




Lbs. 


Ozs. 




Legs 


6 


13 


30.27 


Shoulders 


3 


3 


14.44 


Riba 


2 


L2 


12 . 22 


Loin 


2 


1 


09.16 


Breast 


2 




03.89 


Neck 


1 


• > 


05.02 


Bones 


1 


8 


20.00 



22 8 1 00.00 

The pell weighed five pounds: 27i-5=»22i 

pounds. 



YEARLING OR FALL LAMBS 

The yearling lambs are the ones most generally 
used, and the markets of the present day afford 
a choice supply. These lambs will weigh, ap- 
proximately, from thirty-five to forty-five 
pounds each. They are sold by the pound and 
fetch from twelve to fifteen cents per pound. 

To judge a spring lamb is easy; and a sheep, 
too, is comparatively easy. But in selecting a 
yearling lamb you are apt to be puzzled and un- 
certain. A young small sheep can readily be 
mistaken for a yearling lamb, as it has size, 
cover, and flesh color very much like the year- 
ling or fall lamb. 

TEST FOR BUYING LAMB 

One of the most approved and reliable tests 
is what is known as the " Break" joint. 

That part of the ankle joint reaching from the 
foot to the knee is customarily, in the dressed 
carcass, folded up against the foreleg, and skew- 
ered to same to hold in position. 

If you will note carefully the end of the bones 
where the ankle joins the foot, you will observe 
in the lamb that the bone is closely knitted all 
across. That indicates that it has been broken 
off about an inch above the ankle at a place 
called tlic "break joint." It is of a dark red 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



50 



Test of illustrated yearling lamb. Weight forty- 
one pounds @ 13/4 cents = $5.54. 



ARTICLES 


Weig 


ht 


Per cent 


Legs, trimmed 




9V4 


22.04 


Loin, trimmed 




4/ 


11.71 


Shoulders, trimmed 


4 


09.65 


Breast 




3*4 


08.29 


Rack, trimmed 




4/2 


11.71 


Neck, trimmed 




2 


04.07 


Bones 




5^ 


12.29 


Tallow ■ 




4/2 


11.71 


Stew 




% 


01.83 


Pluck 




2*4 


04.87 


Skewers 




3 A 


01.83 



41 



100.00 



Test of the illustrated yearling lamb hotel 
cuts made at Hotel Sherman, Chicago. 

In carving, it cut 126 pieces. At three-piece 
portions it made 42 orders, a pro rata of one 
portion to the pound. There are 31 orders of 
four-piece portions. 

color on the end. The corresponding end of the 
mutton foreleg is what is the knuckle proper. 
It is separated in the center, into two distinct 
parts, with a crack about one-eighth of an inch 
wide extending from three-eighths to half an 
inch toward the knee, and the knuckle bone has 
a polished appearance. The broken off joint is 
not found in a sheep, because the bone does not 
readily break after the animal is more than a 
year old, when they are no longer considered 
lambs. I would suggest that this be carefully 
studied, and that all hotel men become familiar 
with it. If you learn it thoroly you will not 
be imposed upon when buying lamb. 

Yearling lambs may be had in market cuts as 
per yearling lamb diagram ; but when bought in 
special cuts it generally increases the cost about 
five cents a pound, unless you buy the stew; 
and even then it costs considerable more. So, 
like the sheep, it is best bought whole. 

Estimating at fourteen cents for the carcass, 
eighteen cents for the loin, twenty-two cents for 
the rack, and eighteen cents for the legs, which 
is an average comparison, you would have paid 





Lamb steak. 



Yearling lamb, showing diagram of main cuts. 

five cents more a pound for the cuts than they 
would have cost in the carcass. This does not 
include the stew, because the chef rarely, if ever, 
orders stew lamb. If he does, it would be about 
twenty-five per cent of a lamb and cost about ten 
cents per pound. 

In butchering a yearling lamb, the cuts are 
made the same as those of the sheep. 

It may be that the whole roast lamb is more 
than you need to roast, in which case the chef 
decides which part or parts to save for another 
purpose. Some save the rack to be used as 
Iamb chops, or the half of it. That is not ad- 



60 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



visable, however, as one rib apiece should be 
served with each portion ; and it frequently hap- 
pens that you get an order of all chop or rib 
pieces of roast lamb. 

The legs, or the loin, are the best cuts to save 
as they are suitable for special entrees; also the 
brisket and neck. It is a question for each chef 
to decide for himself. 

SHEEP'S TROTTERS 

The trotters are the feet, and are much like 
calves' feet. They are in poor demand, and very 
seldom used in this country. The French and 
English are fond of them, and prepare them in 
various ways, preferably a la Poulette, Vinai- 
grette, or Bordelaise. 

MUTTON BONES 

Mutton bones are not good to mix in for 
standard soup stock. They impart too much of 
the mutton flavor, and injure soups to that ex- 
tent, unless it is a mutton soup. So it is a gen- 
eral rule among chefs to use mutton bones for 

stock only when they make a mutton soup. 

* * * 

[Mutton supplies sweetbreads, kidneys, and 
livers, which will be considered elsewhere.] 



FOOD PRESERVATION 
Americans are known as a nation of dyspep- 
tics ; and I want to go on record as saying that 
ice water has been the least cause of it, tho it 
has often been given as the prime factor. 

The faulty methods of food preservation prac- 
ticed here is, in my opinion, the main cause of 
dyspepsia. The interests of pure and wholesome 
food have been largely sacrificed on the financial 
altar. A great hue and cry was made over ben- 
zoate of soda. They could go farther and fare 
worse. That hardly scratched the surface of 
chemical food preservatives. Canned, pickled, 
bottled, and smoked foods are nearly all more 
or less treated with chemicals. Such preserved 
foods include hams, tongues, bacon, corned beef, 
sail pork, vegetables, condiments, relishes, pre- 
serves, jellies, etc., all every-day staples of food. 
America would do well to follow the methods 
of the Chinaman in this respect. There are no 
canning factories in China. Neither are there 
any pickling works. A Chinaman generally buys 
his food fresh, with some dried or roasted. You 
enter a Chinese butcher shop, and you will see 
all kinds of food animals roasted whole: whole 
hogs (and done to a turn, too) ; chickens and 
ducks, both roasted and dried. If they have any 
such thing as a pickling ban-el for heel" or pork, 
I never saw or heard of ii. The foundation of 
all their victualling is to be as close to Nature 
as possible. Keeping poultry and other food 



animals alive to the last minute is a part of their 
methods of food preservation. That may be bar- 
barism, but it surely has advantages over some 
of the methods of our civilization. 



QUICK WORK 

It often happens that the chef runs out of 
a dish at meal time, and it is a matter of great 
concern to him, as he does not want to send the 
diner word that "It's all out." Neither does 
he want to have the bill of fare scratched. When 
caught in that way, I have employed the follow- 
ing expedients of quick work: 

In case the roast turkey has run out: 

Take an uncooked turkey. Draw, but do not 
stuff it. Run a knife between the legs and 
body of turkey to open them up and allow the 
fire to apply quickly. Place it in a steamer with 
the steam valve wide open, and let remain there 
about half an hour, then place in a roast pan 
and put in a good hot oven. If the turkey is 
small and tender, you can prepare it in a short 
time that way. 

Fry the dressing as you would German fried 
potatoes, when in a rush, and it is made in a 
few seconds. 

A quick way to replenish roast chicken is to 
split in two, season and flour. Put in a fry pan 
with a weight on. Fry the dressing. In eight 
or ten minutes it will be ready. Dish up as 
roast chicken, with giblet sauce over, and you 
needn't worry about a complaint. (I once served 
a diner roast chicken that way. He was back 
the next day and ordered chicken again, when he 
got the regular roast chicken, but he didn't like 
it. He wanted to know if they had a new cook, 
as the roast chicken was so nice the day before !) 

For quick roast pork. Cut some thin slices 
of raw pork loin ; season, flour, and fry, serving 
as the pork with gravy, etc. 

When you run out of rib part of lamb roast, 
fry some untrimmed lamb chops. 

Larded tenderloin or sirloin can be replen- 
ished quickly by sauteing some thin slices. 

The method may be further applied to suit the 
occasion. 



ROAST BEAVER 

While employed as chef in one of Chicago's 
clubs, I received a dressed beaver from one of 
the members, with a request that it be roasted 
and served at a dinner thai evening. Carrying 
oul instructions, the beaver was duly roasted 
and served. It was the first experience of my- 
self and cooks with a dish of that kind, and all 
were deeply interested. The consensus of opin- 
ion was thai roast beaver is a great delicacy. 
It had all the earmarks of good eating. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



61 



VEAL 

The chef may frequently order veal in small 
cuts, but generally he orders in whole and half 
carcasses, or in fore- and hind-quarters. 

An approximate value, cut prices, is (at pres- 
ent quotations) : Carcass, 15 cents; hind-quar- 
ters, 17 cents; fore-quarters, 13 cents; legs, 18 
cents, which gives some money advantage in 
buying the carcass. But the leg is well worth 
the market cut price, and the quarters corre- 
spond with the carcass in price, so the real 
advantage is in the fore-quarter when skilfully 
handled by the chef. 

The prime age of veal is from four to six 
weeks, and such calves, when dressed, will weigh 
from 90 to 110 pounds. The weights and ages 
of veal supply will vary from this in all ways. 

It is generally claimed that Herefords and 
Durhams produce the best veal. Most of the 
veal supply is of an inferior grade. About 
the only first-class veal is what is called stall- 
fed veal. These calves are either kept tethered, 
or in a small stall so that they may not run 
and develop muscle, or prevent fattening. They 
are mother nursed three times each day. They 
are slaughtered at about five or six weeks old, 
and weigh from 100 to 120 pounds, and sell from 
15 to 18 cents per pound. 

The general market supply of veal is . de- 



pendent on dairy calves of inferior breeds and 
culture. The steward, however, who is early 
to market, can generally secure a supply of 
fairly satisfactory veal. 

In judging veal draw your conclusions from 
the color, plumpness and fat. 

Ordinary veal carcasses are classed in three 
grades. The best grade sells from fourteen to 
sixteen cents per pound, and is called Native. 
The second grade, known as Western or Dairy 
calves, sells from twelve to thirteen cents per 
pound. The third grade is known as Pail, or 
Grass Fed, and fetches ten or eleven cents per 
pound. The hundred-pound veal is about the 
best weight. In small calves the percent of bone 
is too great. (Knowing buyers, I am told, give 
preference to veal that comes from Wisconsin 
as being the best that comes to the Chicago 
markets.) 

Some stewards buy calves with the skin on, 
as the hide weighs from ten to fourteen pounds, 
and sells for nineteen to twenty-two cents a 
pound, and in that way they save about a dollar 
on each calf. When buying veal in this manner 
you can generally distinguish the breed by the 
color markings of the hair, with a little study, 
as, for. instance, the Jerseys have a color all 
their own; the Durham is dark red with some 
white marks ; the Holsteins are black and white ; 




1. Neck. 

2. Chuck. 

3. Shoulder. 

4. Fore shank. 

5. Breast. 



6. Ribs. 

7. Loin. 

8. Flank. 

9. Leg. 

10. Hind shank. 




Illustration taken from Farmers' Bulletin No. 34. U. S. Dei>t. of Agriculture. 






62 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



CARCASS VEAL IN SMALL CUTS 


blade; then carefully bone out under the cover. 




Per cent 




Price 




Amount 


In this manner you will have the most perfect 


Breast 


14.41 


@ 


11 


= 


158.51 


cut rack. 


Chops 


18.01 


@ 


16 


= 


288.16 


The next cut is to remove the neck, cutting it 


Chucks 


17.12 


@ 


08 


= 


136.96 


apart at the last neck-end rib. Then remove 


C*U 1 


05.42 


@ 


06 


= 


32.56 




Shanks 




Legs 


21.61 


@ 


16 


= 


345.76 




Loins 


24.41 


@ 


13 


= 


187.32 




Flanks 


03.61 


@ 


08 


= 


28.88 




Shanks 
Shrinkage 


03.60 
01.81 


© 


06 

• V 




21.60 






100.00% 


11.99.95 


// »-■ .v/: M .V'-: ffT Mm 




FORES VEAL 






m j 1 .P •*-,*•.■'',- *■■ '/ 1 if lUitmlm 

# • 1 . '•* ' ■'* '■;,""•'•; ' -■'*■ > JU jJJJill 'IIIImIL-* 

/ $ A • •■*>' ■■*■'•' \*< x ■■ •" >■ /r ttfm\mi!zmntik 

ft ■*; TB '* <--"' - sr JHimi m\mm\7 (mm/mw 

/vf '1 /,V , . , *'< , .';.-;i:/> ; ,i:'/ /IIILmMP 




Per cent 




Price 




Amount 


Breast 


25.80 


@ 


11 


= 


284.02 


/■^- -'J-OK-'i . r ' ■ ■■'■'" :.. ; .Vv- -. J ' ',-.-'. '.•': 


W/lHll/ill 


Chops 


32.26 


@ 


16 


= 


516.16 






Chucks 


30.66 


@ 


08 


= 


245.36 


1 1 1 » ■ ~ \) t • ' y 1 




Shanks 


09.67 


@ 


06 


= 


58.02 


^^^^^ jflfflHtiWf^ 


Shrinkage 


01.61 


@ 


• • 






Neck cf Veal, untrimmed. 




100.00% 


11.03.56 
















the loin, cutting it off at the last loin-end rib. 




HINDS VEAL 






Now cut off the breasts, leaving a width of seven 




Per cent 




Price 




Amount 


inches to the rack. Score it at the seven-inch 


Legs 


48.98 


@ 


16 


= 


783.68 


line with a knife first, then finish the cut with 


Loins 


32.66 


@ 


13 


= 


424.58 


a saw. After separating the legs and rack in 


Flanks 


08.16 


© 


08. 


= 


65.28 


two parts you have completed the eleven market 


Shanks 


08.16 


@ 


06 


= 


48.96 


cuts in the manner most approved by the chef. 


Shrinkage 


02.04 


@ 


• • 






# * * 




100.00% 


13.22.50 


Test on illustrated veal, one half carcass, sixty- 














two pounds @ 15 cents = $9.30. 














ARTICLES Weight Per cent 




Per cent 




Price 




Amount 


Leg 24 38.71 


Fore Quarters 
Hind Quarters 


55.85 
44.15 




11.03 
13.22 


= 


616.02 
583.63 


Shoulder 10 16.12 
Rack 9 14.51 
Breast 7 11.31 




100.00% 


11.99.65 


Neck 6 09.68 
Loin 5 08.06 














Tri/^noiT- 1 fH 1"! 














ivianey i 


VX.UJL 



the Herefords are red with white face; the 
Guernseys are much like the Jersey and hard 
to distinguish between when calves. 

Butchering the veal carcass : First remove the 
legs, cutting at the end of the hip bone. Before 
making this cut detach the cod or udder part of 
the flank which connects with the leg, so that it 
will remain with the breast cut, making a more 
perfect and larger breast. In cutting off the 
Leg without this precaution you leave attached 
to it a remnanl ; while if left to the breast, it 
forms part of a valuable whole, and the breast 
cul in this manner will make two sections, while 
in a market cul breast it makes only one section. 

Having removed the legs, next cut apart the 
shoulders. Jn this cut don't remove any more 
of the rack cover than is positively necessary. 
The same faulty cut is made here in veal that is 
so often made in mutton. Make the cover cut 
about five inches inside the end of shoulder 



62 100.00 

The half veal used for these veal illustrations 

weighed 62 pounds and cut up into standard 

hotel cuts as per above test, leg and shoulder 

untrimmed,. Allow about nine per cent for 

knuckles. 

* * * 

LEG OF VEAL 
The leg is the choice cut of veal, and sells for 
the most money when bought in cuts. It is the 
highest valued cut to the chef, too, and de- 
servedly so. It has the least percent of trim- 
mings, and from it the chef derives the most 
popular and best selling veal dishes. There is 
no doubt that the breaded veal cutlet, veal steak, 
paprika schnitzel, veal scallops, Holstein and 
Wiener schnitzels, and the fricandeau are all 
among the leading veal dishes, and the leg sup- 
plies these generally, and in the best hotels, 
always. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



63 




A — Leg of Veal, untrimmed (hotel cut), 



B — Shoulder of Veal, untrimmed (hotel cut). 



There is some difference of opinion and prac- 
tice with the veal cutlets, a few chefs using the 
rack or chops as a cutlet. 

In cutting the leg, piece it in its natural. sec- 
tions by parting it at the natural lines of divi- 
sion. The choice section is the bottom round, or 
fricandeau. This lies on the inside of the leg, 
and is especially fine for larding such dishes as 

Larded kernel of veal, Montebello 

Braised larded fricandeau of veal, Tallyrand 

Round of veal, Dubarry style 





Cushion of veal, Tyrolienne, 
and so .on. 

The top round or flat section is not so desir- 
able. It has a contrary grain, and along one 
side it has a round fillet-shaped division that is 
covered with a very tough skin. This part needs 
careful handling. It is best for schnitzels and 
cutlets. Trim off the sinuous skin covering, and 
after it is sliced beat well with the cleaver. 
In a large leg the round and fillet-shaped piece 
is best separated and cut by itself. 

The third large division or section of the leg 
is what is generally called the kernel. It is 
nearly as choice as the bottom round section, 
and is suitable for larding. 

There are other parts of the leg that are 
smaller, but when trimmed and cut across the 




Fricandeau, or flat piece of vea 



B — Minor (sous noix) section. 
Kernels or Noix of Veal; A — Major (noix) section; 




Veal Breast, untrimmed. 



64 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 






grain are equally good as the larger parts for 
cutlets, schnitzels or stews. 

Part of the tenderloin is left to the loin in 
cutting, so in order to preserve this full size, 
remove it before cutting the leg from the car- 
cass. 

* * * 

Leg of veal test (from test carcass, without loin). 
Leg of veal, twenty-three pounds, hotel cut ( mar- 
ket cut has loin). 



ARTICLES 


We-ght 


Per cent 


Fricandeaus, etc. 


12% 


55.4350 


Knuckles 


3J4 


14.1300 


Trimmings 


3 


13.0 4 50 


Bone 


4 


17.3900 




23 


100.0000 



LOIN OF VEAL 

The loin is a choice part of the carcass, and 
in the hands of a skilled chef is made great use 
of. It is the choice roast of veal and the ■' ' roast 
loin" proper. The average chef, tho, uses the 
shoulder and leg, as well as the loin, when he 
has roast loin of veal on the bill. In fact, many- 
don 't use the loin at all for roast, but save it 
for some special entree. The tenderloin should 
not be removed from the carcass if you are to 
have a proper loin of veal. 

The loin can be prepared in various ways. 
Some bone it, making a section of each half; 
then truss, lard and braise it, when it is called 
"fillet. " It can be left whole, boned and larded, 
and named "saddle. " It is also nice as "loin 
chops " or boned and made into rolls with kid- 
neys in, two to each half. 

Suggestions for loin of veal uses: 

Braised fillet of veal, Duchess style 
Combination loin veal chops, Delmonico 
Larded saddle of veal, Fanchonette 
Braised kidney and veal roll, Chieftain 
Tournadoes of veal saddle, cabaret 
Sliced cold loin of veal, Belvidere 

RACK OF VEAL 

As an a la carte dish, veal chops do not sell. 
It is very seldom that an order is had. But as 
a carte du jour entree they are quite popular. 

In cutting veal chops, remove the back and 
chine bones, and trim them as you would a 
French mutton chop; but do not have the han- 
dles so long, only about one inch, sizing the 
ends to fit the frills. It is customary to serve 
two chops to an order, one from the loin end, 
and one from the neck end. In first-class places 
they generally leave out the neck chops, using 
only the covered ones. For an entree that has 
a lot of garnish, and especially if the rack is 
large, only one chop is given to an order. 




Loin of Veal, untrimmed. 




Veal Rack trimmed. (From which the veal chops 
are taken. Some chefs use it also for veal cutlets; 
especially stuffed veal cutlets.) 







Veal Chop. 




Veal steak. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



65 



Veal chop entree suggestions : 

Yeal chops in crumbs with spaghetti, Creole. 

Braised larded veal rack, Trianon 

Casserole of veal chops, Spanish style, corn 

fritters 

Combination veal chops, Excelsior 

Cold veal chops with veal jelly and endive 

salad 

Grilled veal chops, club style 

SHOULDER OF YEAL 
The shoulder has a large percent of bone, and 
in boning it becomes quite pieced and ragged. 
The clod part is very satisfactory and can be 
used for schnitzels or cutlets, leaving the re- 
mainder for a curry, ragout, or stew, and, freed 
of sinews, is just the thing for veal loaf or the 
veal Hamburger called "Pojarski cutlet." 

For roasting the shoulder, for which it is 
more commonly used, after boning make a com- 
pact and even roll of it and firmly tie. Prepare 




Boned and tied Shoulder of Veal. 

it hi the same manner when using for an entree. 
Man}' chefs use this and the other minor parts 
for the emplo3 T es. 

The shoulder is suited to a lot of nice dishes. 
I will mention a few that I have had most suc- 
cess with. 

Braised shoulder of veal, Neapolitan 
Shoulder of milk fed veal, Empire 
Foreleg of stall fed veal, Boniface 
Pot roast of veal, Kaiser fashion 
Rostbraten of veal with homemade noodles 
Shoulder of veal with stuffed tomatoes and 
fried eggplant. 

The chef with initiative may enlarge upon 
these. 



pounds. 



an illustrated 


shoulder 


of veal, 


ARTICLES 


Weight 


Per cent 


Veal roast 


6 3 A 


61.3650 


Knuckles 


2K 


20.4530 


Bones 


2 


18.1820 




11 


100.0000 



eleven 



BREAST OF VEAL 

The breast does not make such a meaty or 
satisfactory dish to the diner; but, somehow, 
has received a lot more attention from the chef. 
While the shoulder is commonly despised, most 



every chef has a weakness for the breast. It 

seems to impress them as having more class. 
The breast illustrated is the full one, as cut from 
the carcass, No. 5 and 8, and cut into two 
parts. 

To bone the breast : Make it a point not to 
remove any of the flesh. To do this, run the 
point of the boning knife down the center of 
each rib its full length from the inside side, thus 
cutting the bone covering, after which the rib 
can be easily removed with the hands. After 
removing the ribs, cut out the superfluous breast 
bones, using care not to cut away too much, as 
leaving some of the gristle is rather to be desired 
to emphasize the character of the dish. 





Veal Breast, cut in two sections, boned, stuffed and 
tied, ready for cooking. 

The breast is served in many ways. Some 
parboil it with the bone in, then bone, press and 
cut - into fancy shapes for cold en gelee, or 
broiled, or fried with a nice garnish. 

The most common way to serve is to have 
them stuffed, and that is variously done. Some- 
times a pouch is made of it, which is filled with 
dressing. Other times no pouch is made, but 
the filling is laid on the breast and folded in, 
sewing the two edges together. 

There are a variety of stuffings made, too, 
such as Duxelles, poultry stuffing and sausage 
stuffing. There isn't much to the breast proper, 
and to be a successful dish a lot of attention 
should be paid to the stuffing and garnish. 

A few breast of veal suggestions : 

Stuffed breast of veal with macaroni. Milan - 
aise. 

Breast of veal with sausage dressing and sweet 
potatoes 

Braised stuffed veal breast, College Inn style 

Broiled boneless veal breast with Westphalia 
bacon 

Breast of milk fed veal, Rathskeller 

Braised roulade of veal breast, Florentine 

KNUCKLES AND NECK 
The knuckles and neck contain some meat 



66 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



that is suitable for the employes as a stew; 
also for calf 's-foot jelly, aspic, espagnole, and 
stock. 

VEAL BONES 

The bones of a veal carcass are highly prized 
by the chef, as it is with these he makes his best 
espagnole or brown sauce. They are chopped 
up into small pieces, placed in a roasting pan, 
and thoroly roasted and browned in the oven; 
cut vegetables having been mixed with them. 
From this the second stock is made, which is the 
foundation of espagnole. When calf 's-foot 
jelly or aspic is to be made, the bones are not 
roasted, but boiled in their natural state. 

CALF'S HEAD AND FEET 

Calves' heads are a great delicacy, and not 
fully appreciated by the average American. In 
Europe it is a much greater favorite. In this 




Calf's head and feet. 



country its greatest use is in making mock turtle 
soup. When on the bill as an entree it has a 
very limited demand. The quality of the Amer- 
ican supply is very inferior. Several reasons 
contribute to this. One is that the best calves, 
the natives, are slaughtered by country butchers, 
generally, and they know little about calf's 
head and feet, and have little time or inclination 
to prepare them if they did. So it is their 
practice to skin the head along with the rest of 
the carcass, and let it weigh in as calves' skins, 
when the heads are severed from the carcass, 
put in a sack, and shipped to the commission 
merchanl to be disposed of for the brains, tongue 
and bones. It ends in the packing houses being 
the source of supply. They have men to do 
this special work. 

Their calves are generally of an inferior 
grade, and they suffer further by being packed 
in barrels and placed in a refrigerator, and 
frozen till called for. About the only way you 
can gel a good fresh calf's head is to arrange 
with some small butcher and pay him well for it. 

Different ways are employed by the chefs in 
preparing the head and feet. 



To bone the feet : First, cut between the toes 
as far as the ankle bone ; then cut the skin thru 
for the length of the bone from the inside; 
after which place the foot on the meat block 
and bear down from the knee joint until the 
foot joint connection is broken, when you finish 
the boning with the knife. Chop off the toes, 
and it is ready for the fire. 

To bone the head : Cut clear across the fore- 
head from nose to head and remove the skin 
with the knife. After removing the skin, chop 
off the lower jaw, from which remove the tongue 
and trim it of the gullet; then split the skull 
evenly in two, and remove the brain. 

Another way, preferred by many as being 
easier and quite as good, is: After making the 
cuts before described in the feet and head, par- 
boil them for a time, after which the skin is 
more readily and neatly removed ; the cooking to 
be finished after removal. 

If you have a choice head, it will make a de- 
licious dish. 

"Calf's-head vinaigrette" for a warm sum- 
mer day is appetizing and wholesome. 
Fried calf's head, tartare sauce, 
Casserole of calf's head, Parisienne, and 
Calves' feet, poulette, are all classics. 

VEAL LOAF 

For the garde manger department the "veal 
loaf" is fine, especially in summer, and is one 
of the best uses you can make of the veal trim- 
mings. About all the packing houses make it 
these days, and the delicatessen stores all carry 
a stock of it. 

In making veal loaf it is best to mix in some 
pork, as the veal alone is apt to be too dry and 
brittle. Run the meat thru a chopper, after 
first removing all sinews. Then work it in a 
mortar. If you have no mortar, run it thru a 
grinder about three times. Into this prepara- 
tion mix egg yolks, sherry, brandy, nutmeg, 
cayenne, mace, salt and cream. Bake it in a 
terrine or earthenware dish lined with larding 
pork. Garnish this, when being placed in the 
terrine, with strips of veal that have been partly 
cooked, before baking it. It is nice garnished 
with ham or with truffles. Sold as a cold special, 
it goes best. 

Cold veal loaf with calf 's-foot jelly. 

Cold sliced veal loaf with asparagus tip salad 

Hot veal loaf, St. Regis 

Veal loaf and spinach, Nonpareil, 

and in many other ways. 

It is especially suited for summer dishes. 

In serving it hot, a good way is to mold the 
mixture into rolls and cook them wrajDped in 
oiled paper. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



67 



CALF 'S-FOOT JELLY 

Calf s-foot jelly makes a delicious and orna- 
mental garde manger special. It should be 
formed in special molds. It is made with vari- 
ous wines, as champagnes, liqueurs and fruits. 
These varieties are made by the pastry cook, and 
are usually made of prepared calf 's-foot gela- 
tine. When made by the garde manger it is 
practically the same as aspic jelly. In place of 
the sugar used by the pastry cook, salt is used ; 
also sherry or white wine is generally used. 

For a gallon of calf 's-foot jelly take about 
ten pounds of veal bones, knuckles preferred, 
and four calves ' feet ; and, that it may have an 
amber color, add three or four pounds of shank 
beef. Put into the sauce pan with these some 
celery, carrots, and a little onion or leeks. Add 
the cold water. Do not salt until it has come 
to a boil and has been thoroly skimmed. After 
skimming, set aside where it can slowly simmer 
for about five hours. In placing it to boil, have 
about twice the quantity of water as the quan- 
tity of jelly you wish to make. If you are mak- 
ing one gallon, begin with two gallons of water, 
allowing half for evaporation. Having removed 
and cooled this stock, strain it into another sauce 
pan. Carefully remove all the grease and add 
two ounces of prepared calf 's-foot gelatine that 
has been steeped in tepid water. Then clarify, 
the same as you would consomme, with chopped 
veal and white of eggs, adding the wine just 
before removal from the fire, using a scant pint 
of wine to each gallon. 

VEAL SPINAL MARROW 

The spinal marrow from a calf is very deli- 
cious. Use it about the same as you would calf 's 
brain. Soak in salt water and remove the skin ; 
then blanch a few minutes, when it is ready 
to serve a la Villeroi, with brown butter; in 
croustades, or as a garnish for sweetbreads or 
filet mignon. 

LOG CABIN COMBINATION 

A nice combination that is especially suited to 
European hotels is the Log Cabin veal combina- 
tion. It should be a fresh butchered calf, from 
which take the liver, kidneys, and sweetbreads. 
Cut these into slices, leaving the fat on the kid- 
ney and leaving the sweetbreads raw. Season 
the slices with salt and pepper, and roll in flour. 
Then fry them in melted butter until well done 
and a golden brown. Also have some strips of 
bacon fried. Dish these up with each portion 
containing one piece each of the liver, sweet- 
bread, kidney and bacon, and bitpwn butter 
poured over. 



SWEETBREADS 

There are three kinds of sweetbreads, the 
veal, beef, and mutton. Of these, the calves' 
sweetbreads are the choicest. They are of two 
classes, namely, the heart and the throat sweet- 
breads. The heart sweetbreads are the best. 
They continue beyond the age of the veal ani- 
mal and are found until about the age of one 
year in heifers and steers, when they disappear 
from fatty degeneration. They lie near the 
heart, and have a direct tissue connection with 
the throat breads. It is the butcher's work to 
properly soak these in salted water to free them 
of blood, and trim them, when they are sent to 
the garde manger to be parboiled, skinned and 
preserved, ready to be passed to the cook when 
called for. They sell at about sixty cents per 
pound. 

Calves' sweetbreads being so expensive, many 
places do not buy them, but use beef sweet- 
breads instead. They can be bought for from 
twenty to twenty-five cents per pound. When 
carefully selected and well prepared they are 
very satisfactory. 

Beef sweetbreads are apt to degenerate into 
fat formations as they become aged, but that 
is easily detected, and should be watched for, 
as a few unscrupulous packers market them. 

To prepare the beef breads : Soak them sev- 
eral hours in cold salted water, changing the 
water two or three times to whiten them and 
free them of blood. In the cooking, care should 
be taken to have them as well done as possible, 
and still retain their shape; that is, not to fall 
apart. In parboiling them, allow for the further 
cooking they will receive before being served; 
which should not be much for quick a la carte 
service. 

Lamb sweetbreads are not much used by the 
average chef, altho they are delicious, and for 
such entrees as Brochettes, Newburgs, and 
Emince, are quite equal to the others, and have 
the advantage of being a sweetbread change. 
And, too, they can be bought for twelve or 
thirteen cents per pound. 

KIDNEYS 

The kidneys of veal, beef and mutton are 
common articles of food. Those of the calves 
and lambs are particularly fine. They are made 
general use of as entrees of themselves, or as 
a garnish for other dishes. 

The veal kidneys are worth about fifteen cents 
each, and many nice entrees are made of them. 
The lamb kidneys sell for about sixty cents a 
dozen, and take rank with the veal kidney as an 
entree. The beef kidney is hardly ever used 
by the chef. When they are properly cooked 



68 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



they are very nice. The common mistake made 
in cooking them is that they are cooked too 
much, for the longer you cook them the harder 
they get. To be nice and tender they should be 
just cooked and no more. When handled right 
they are nearly as tender as the veal kidneys. 

To prepare them : Free of all fat and sinews 
and slice. (But don't make the mistake of Brid- 
get in cooking them, who boiled the eggs three 
hours without getting them soft boiled ! ) 

TRIPE 

Tripe is made of beef stomachs, and when 
well cured and prepared is a delicious dish. 
But it is in general disfavor in this country for 
various reasons, one of which is that it is often 
held up to ridicule. Another is owing to the 
atrocious way it is so often packed for market. 

To insure having a palatable and wholesome 
pickled tripe, my advice is to buy the fresh tripe 
and pickle it yourself, preferably in a white 
wine vinegar. 

In France tripe is given proper care and is a 
national dish. What Boston baked beans are 
to America, Caen baked tripe is to France. 
For "Tripe a la mode, de Caen," like baked 
beans, is baked in an earthenware pot from 
twelve to twenty-four hours; is sold by street 
vendors and delicatessen stores, and equals the 
Boston dish in public favor. I have seen Caen 
tripe prepared in different ways by accredited 
French authorities. The most approved I have 
found to be made with the raw tripe cut into 
julienne or dice, with raw pigs' and calves' feet 
also cut in the same manner and mixed with it; 
also a generous amount of sliced onions. At 
times other vegetables and aromatics are added. 
This is baked in a tightly sealed pot, having been 
covered with bouillon when it is baked. 

There are a lot of nice tripe dishes, such as 

Cocotte of honeycomb tripe, Richelieu 
Broiled fresh tripe steak with paprika bacon 
and grilled Spanish onions. 

Fricasseed fresh tripe and oysters en bordure, 
and the old favorite, Tripe a la Creole. 

These are all of fresh tripe. I won't recom- 
mend any dish made of the average pickled 
tripe of commerce. 

BRAINS 

There are four kinds of food brains, namely, 
calves', beef, sheep and pigs'. The calves' 
brains are 1 lie choice, and most in demand. 
They sell al aboul 1 on cents per pound. Beef 
brains rank next, and are worth about eight 
cents per pound. The sheep brains sell at about 
five cents per pound. They are often used, but 
not under their own name. In fact, you rarely 



see any but calves' brains listed on the bills of 
fare; but, more often than not, they are really 
beef or sheep brains. Hogs' brains are in poor 
demand, and sell at about five cents per pound. 
Nevertheless, they are the richest of them all, 
and have a delicious flavor. They are rich to a 
fault, being so soft that they do not hold to- 
gether well, and consequently are not in demand 
by the chef. 

In preparing brains soak them in cold salted 
water; trim and skin them, then parboil: when 
they are ready for preserving in a mild sour 
pickle by the garde manger; later to be used as 
the chef decides. 

LIVERS 

The same custom prevails with the livers as 
with the brains. On the bills of fare it is all 
calf's liver, while in fact it may be sheep's 
liver or the small end of a heifer's or steer's 
liver. The hog's liver is so distinctive that it 
cannot be passed for calf's liver, and is about 
all made into liver sausage. The best calves' 
livers are the lightest colored ones. Calves' 
livers have become a decided luxury, selling at 
about twenty-five cents a pound. The average 
portion is half a pound. 

In preparing calf's liver, remove the skin and 
sinews; slice in six slices to the pound with three 
slices to a portion. 

For a liver entree in a moderate establish- 
ment, the small end of a choice young steer or 
heifer is very nice and can be bought for about 
ten cents per pound. The larger end can be 
used for employes. It really has a better flavor 
than calf's liver, and when sliced to resemble 
calf's liver, and not cooked too hard, is about 
as satisfactory as the calf's liver. 

Sheep's liver is quite a success as an entree 
too. List it as 

Lamb's liver, Raymond style, 
Combination spring lamb liver, or 
Lamb's liver with fried ham and mashed 
potatoes. 

I have had a lot of success with such dishes. 
They can be bought for about ten cents each, 
which makes them profitable, and opens a way 
of escape from the ban put on calf's liver in all 
but the highest grade establishments. 






TEMPERATURE 

There is a common misapprehension that all 
the cooking is dependent on a red hot range. 
Quite the contrary. Half, at least, depends on 
the other extreme of the temperature— an ice 
cold box. If you would have the right balance 
to your cash book, first have the right balance 
to your kitchen temperature. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



69 



POULTRY 

HENS 

In all well regulated kitchens of the Euro- 
pean plan service there is a constant supply 
of hens. It is a big* and important item with 
the chef. 

There are two classes of supply, the fresh, 
and the frozen, or refrigerator, supply. The 
season for fresh hens is from about November 1 
to April 1. The season for frozen hens is from 
about April 1 to November 1, making five 
months fresh and seven months cold storage 
season. The quality of the hens depends upon 
the breed and culture. The Chinese are the 
greatest poultry breeders, and up to quite re- 
cently, and even now, to a large extent, we owe 
to them our best breeds. The same may be said 
regarding hogs. 

The cold storage hen has many defects. It 
lacks greatly in flavor. It is a poor keeper, 
especially when cooked, and it is apt to be dis- 
colored, dry, and brittle when cooked. The chef 
is compelled to have a supply of boiled hens at 
all times for such dishes as a la King, sand- 
wiches, salads, cold sliced, etc., and unless he 
has first-class refrigerators, he is hard pressed 
to save cold storage hens, as they spoil in a few 
hours in warm weather, which is their season. 

The choice hen is the reasonably fat one, 
about eighteen months to two years of age, with 
the breast large and of excessive proportions 
to the legs. 

The supply of raw hens is best left undrawn 
until the time they are to be cooked. 

The care of the cooked hen is the work of the 
garde manger cook. The disposal of the carcass 
differs widely. In the best places only the breast 
is used for chafing dish specials, a la King, 
sandwiches, salads, cold, etc. In such establish- 
ments the chef uses the legs for hash, croquettes, 
duxelle, etc., and for such dishes as 

Stuffed chicken legs, Nipponese 

Dark meat of chicken, Creole, corn fritters 

Fried chicken legs, Maryland 





Planked boned leg of capon. 



Second joints of capon, Chipolata 

Casserole of chicken second joints, Mexicaine, 
etc. 

A classy dish can be made of young chicken 
legs, turkey legs, or capon legs, namely: 

Planked boned capon legs, Monarch. 

Bone the legs; stuff with chicken forcemeat, 
and wrap in the caul or vail fat. Braise, and 
serve on a plank with a border. Garnish with 
sliced tomatoes and fresh mushrooms. 

In other places the dark and white meat is 
made common use of. The trimmings are used 
for croquettes, salads, hash, etc. 

To carve a chicken for the garde manger de- 
partment : First, remove the legs, doing it care- 
fully, and using the knife to cut the connections, 
so that the second joint will be left whole and 
unbroken. Remove the skin. Next, remove the 
back, cutting off what is left of the wing to the 
carcass. Remove the skin from the breast. It 




A dressed hen. 



E — Chicken breast, trimmed for cold 



is now prepared for slicing. ( See cut of trimmed 
breast.) Remove all the meat from back bones 
for other uses, also the trimmings left after 
slicing the breast. 

ROOSTERS 

The rooster has no place in the modern 
kitchen. He is built on reverse lines to the hen. 
The hen has the largest per cent of breast, while 
in the rooster the largest per cent of meat is in 
the legs, and mighty tough legs at that. In 
times past roosters were commonly used in 
hotels, but now they are either caponized, sold 
as broilers, or sent to the canneries. I have it 
on good authority that one of the largest soup 



70 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MAXGER AXD CARVER 




Plymouth rock capon, as purchased. 



manufacturers gets seventy-five per cent of the 
rooster supply of South Water street (Chicago) 
market. The tempting can, with its bright and 
vari-colored label reading "Deviled Chicken," 
is apt to contain a tough old rooster. They have 
the wrong qualification on devil; it should be 
"devilish!" 

CAPON 
Capon is generally considered the finest of all 
poultry food; but the modern milk-fed fowl 
threatens to dethrone it. Some good judges 
claim this is already accomplished. Philadel- 
phia capon has always been a proud title on the 
bill of fare. In late years it has been compelled 
to share honors with the Indiana capon, where 
the big supply of choice capons now comes from. 
Missouri, Kansas and Wisconsin furnish a large 
supply of choice capon also. The Plymouth 
Rock capon is the one most sought. Unsexing 



poultry has proven quite as successful as that 
of beef, pork, and mutton. The French make 
a common practice of spaying the hen also, 
called poulards. 

What keeps the consumption of capon so low 
is its high cost. It is a common practice among 
chefs to serve nice milk-fed roasting chicken, 
or hens, as capon to save the difference in 
cost. The cold storage article has brought it 
into disfavor also. Much of the capon supply 
is cold storage, which has lost its superiority. 
The season for capon is about the same as that 
of turkeys. They are mostly used for roasting. 
They, no doubt, make the choicest boning fowl 
for galantines. 

TURKEYS 

Turkey is the great American national bird. 
I always feel better satisfied with my bill of 
fare if I have roast turkey on it. That is one 




Turkey, prepared for roasting. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MAXGER AND CARVER 



71 




Roasting goose, as purchased. 



of the most popular dishes the chef serves. 
About November 1 is the opening of the regular 
fresh turkey season, and it continues until 
March 1. It is used all the year round, how- 
ever, the cold storage supply being used during 
the closed season of the fresh supply. A turkey 
that hasn't been frozen too long is quite satis- 
factory, but a lot of them are marketed that 
have become off color and bitter from too much 
cold storage. 

For roasting, the gobbler is the choice turkey. 
The hen is the best for boiling and boned. 

The broiling turkey season is during the 
months of August and September. They cost 
$1.50 to $2.00, and are in little demand/ 

The size of the turkey is important. A turkey 
that is too large will not carve to advantage. 
Two turkeys that weigh, twenty pounds will pro- 
duce a lot more orders than one turkey that 
weighs twenty pounds. The two turkeys will 
have twice as many back-bone pieces, legs, and 
wing pieces as the one turkey, and will produce 
more breast slices. A twelve-pound turkey is 
the most profitable. 

GEESE 

There has been a great improvement hi the 
supply of geese in late years. "Wisconsin was 
the leader in goose culture, and it was the goose 
that made TTatertown famous. At the present 
time Oil City, Long Island, Northern Iowa, 
Minnesota, the Dakotas, and Rhode Island are 
great geese producing states. The season for 
fresh geese begins with the gosling, or il green 



goose," as the chef sometimes calls it. About 
June 1 is when they appear, and the fresh sup- 
ply continues till about February 1, after which 
the cold storage goose is used. 

Geese suffer less from cold storage than any 
kind of poultry. The average cold storage goose 
is quite as good as the fresh. The most desirable 
qualities of a goose are. that it should be fat 
and young. They are very long lived and get 
very tough. What the turkey is to Americans, 
the goose is to the Germans and the Jews ; and 
more, for with them goose fat takes the place of 
butter to a great extent. It is from goose liver 
that the famous dish "pate de foie gras" is 
made. 

DUCKS 

There has been a great development in the 
amount and quality of ducks hi recent years. 
Owing to this improvement, the duck has be- 
come a large and favored item of food with the 
chef. They are used for entrees, broiling, and 
roasting. They stand the cold storage treatment 
nearly as well as geese. 




Duck, prepared for roasting. 



72 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Milk-fed roasting chicken. 



The Rhode Island and Long Island spring- 
ducks appear about the first of May and last till 
about the first of August, when the mature ducks 
begin to appear, and last until about January. 
The Rhode Island ducks cost from twenty-five 
to thirty cents per pound. 

The Western supply of fresh ducks begins 
about August 1 and continues to February. 
Most of the finest supply of Western ducks 
comes from Minnesota and Wisconsin. The 
Western ducks sell from eighteen to twenty 
cents per pound. 

The season for ducks covers the whole year, 
cold storage stock being generally used all thru 
the fresh season. In this respect it differs from 
the goose. 

SPRING CHICKEN 

In this class of chicken are included the broil, 
ers, roasters, and fryers ; some ultra-classy chefs 
using them for fricassee. 

The fresh broiler season opens up about the 
first of June, and the market is well supplied 
until October. The season for fresh roasters is 
from September 1 to February 1. The chef 
has no closed season for spring chicken, as he 
uses the cold storage article when there are no 




fresh ones. Spring chickens are probably more 
injured by cold storage than any other class 
of poultry. 

For frying purposes a chicken weighing from 
one to two pounds is generally preferred. 

For whole roast chicken, and baby spring 
chicken in casserole, the one-pound chicken is 
the most commonly used. 

The raising of spring chickens is a great in- 
dustry. The milk-fed chicken is a recent devel- 
opment, and it is from this class that we get our 
choicest supplies. When fed on bread and 
chicken feed soaked in milk, the meat is of a. 
superior white color and tenderness, and of a 
delicious flavor. Most any highly cultured and 
well-fed chicken is classed as milk-fed, whether 
it has been fed milk or not. Just at present 
Kansas carries the banner for the finest milk- 
fed chickens, and her turkeys are quite equal 
to the Vermont product. 

Beginning at about two or three days be- 
fore they are to be killed, the milk-fed chickens 
are commonly fed chopped suet with their 



Young chicken, prepared for roasting. 




Spring chicken prepared for broiling 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



73 



feed; in some instances they are fed butter- 
milk. 

A certain brand of milk-fed chickens from 
Kansas marks the highest development in this 
class of poultry ; a roaster of this kind weighing 
around four pounds easily takes the place of 
capon and sells for about three cents less per 
pound. 

The steward-chef generally pays a lot of at- 
tention to the weight of chicken he will use. The 
most favored weight for broilers is two pounds ; 
from that up they are mostly roasted. My 
choice for a roast chicken is one that will carve 
eight nice pieces for four orders, which is from 
three and a half to four pounds; or one that 
will make two orders cut in half, two or two and 
a half pounds. 




B 




Breast of spring chicken, trimmed for supreme of 

chicken. 




Supreme or breast of chicken, Jeanette. 

For fried chicken, country style, I favor a 
two-pound chicken, one-half to the single order. 
Cut it in eleven pieces, two breast pieces, four 
leg pieces; two wing pieces, and three back 
pieces. Serve the liver fried with one half, 
and the gizzard with the other half. 

A chicken about two pounds is best for Mary- 
land style. 

In the preparation of chickens and all other 
poultry they should be singed. Special gas 
singers can be had for this purpose; or, fill a 
dish of some kind with salt, then cover with 
alcohol. This is better than the clear alcohol. 



CHICKEN GIBLETS 

There are a lot of by-products from poultry, 
known under the class name of giblets, that can 
be used for many nice dishes. The wings of 
turkeys, capons, and roasting chickens are ex- 
cellent, and can be prepared in many ways. 
Trim and singe them well. They are best with 
a good liberal garnish, such as Creole, with 
rice, or fricasseed and fried. They make a nice 
garde manger dish when boned and stuffed and 
prepared in aspic or Jeanette style. The livers 
sell well and need never be wasted. Popular 
dishes of these are omelettes, patties, brochettes, 
and sautes. 

The combs and fries are useful for garnishes. 

The necks, gizzards, and chicken wings make 
a nice dish for help's hall, and are useful in 
soup. 

The average refuse of poultry is twenty-five 
per cent. 

SQUABS 

There has been a big advance in raising squabs 
within recent years, and the quality has been 




Squab. 





■Boned and stuffed squab; B— Squab prepared for 
broiling. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MAXGER AXD CARVER 




Guinea hen, prepared for roasting. 

greatly improved. Yet squabs are not at all 
popular as a food. Peculiar and unusual rea- 
sons. I am convinced, have caused their unpop- 
ularity. The main reason, I think, is that they 
suffer by comparison. When it comes to a choice 
with the diner, he orders a spring chicken rather 
than a squab. Probably it is not that the squab 
is not liked, but it is quite bony, rather small, 
and an order costs more than half a chicken. A 
one-pound squab generally costs $1.50, and an 
ordinary one, with little else than bone, will 
cost sixty to seventy-five cents. The bird itself 
is some to blame, too, for it has a flavor all its 
own, and it is only when a highly cultured and 
choice squab that it meets favor with the average 
diner. 

The most success is had with the squab when 
it is served for a banquet, broiled, boned, and 
stuffed for en eoeotte, en casserole, or cold in 
aspic. 

GUINEA HEXS 

Guinea fowls have become quite plentiful 
within the last eiaht or ten years. In larse 
cities the first-class hotels, clubs, and fashionable 
restaurants serve them constantly, and the ad- 
vanced chef has come generally to give this fowl 
a lot of attention owing to the present stringent 
game laws and consequent lack of game. 

They are used much the same way as spring 
chicken, but are almost too dry for roasting and 
broiling, tho commonly used as broilers. The 
best way to serve them is en casserole, saute, or 
as breast of guinea hen. 

Choice 2-pound guinea hens sell from $6.50 
to $7.50 per doz., but they may be had at dif- 
ferent grades and prices, like chickens. They 
are mostly bred in Maryland, Pennsylvania, and 
.- Jersey. The chicks die easily if exposed 
to wet and cold. In England they are bred 
for game preserves the same as pheasants. 
They arc a welcome bird to the chef when he 
has a nice banquet to serve and the price per 
plate will permit their use. 

Tin are considered a great delicacy by 

connoisseurs, and are prized by the chef as an 
hors d'oeuvre. They are three-fourths the size 



of the average hen egg, and dark brown in 
color. 

The flesh of the guinea hen is dark. There is 
a white breed of this fowl, the flesh of which is 
lighter. Guinea hens are judged like ordinary 
fowl. If the breast is flexible, the feet soft, and 
the claws short, it indicates they are young. 
Furthermore, the helmet on top of a guinea's 
head is nearly black when young, and lead col- 
ored when old. 

GAME 

The game laws have played havoc with this 
class of meat in recent years. Still there is quite 
a lot to be had yet. The prices are so high for 
choice game birds that verv little of it is handled. 






A and B, breast of guinea hen, trimmed for cooking; 
C — Breast of guinea hen. 



Prairie chickens, partridges, canvasback ducks 
and redhead ducks have become a luxury for the 
rich, and about three dollars each is the price of 
them. Quail, mallard duck, teal duck, snipe, and 
venison are quite commonly handled. Rabbits 
are plentiful and cheap, but not much liked. A 
lot of elk meat comes to market, but owing to 
the social ban it parades under the name venison, 
and not always recognized. Moose meat is one 
of the choicest of venisons, but very scarce and 
high priced. 

The Chinese or English pheasant has a prom- 
ising future, but just at present the supply is 
mostly imported and cold storage. They are a 
nice big bird, and I look for them to develop 
into a big food industry some time, as they now 
are in England. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



75 



BREASTS OF GAME 
Of late years there has appeared a new class 
of food supply, namely: the breasts of quail, 
mallard, teal duck, guinea hen, prairie chicken 
and partridge. I have inquired into the source 
of this supply and am informed that much of 
the game shipped to market has suffered too 





Trimmed breast of mallard duck. 



much injury for gunshot wounds to keep well, 
so the birds are stripped of everything but the 
breast, and quickly disposed of at a special and 
inviting price. An over-supply is often handled 
in this way also. 

I have bought fine breasts of mallard at forty 
or fifty cents each, and other game breasts at 
corresponding rates. 

The breast is about all there is to a game bird, 
and I make it a point to avail myself of this 
market commodity. 



CARE OF EGGS 

Eggs have climbed the ladder of high prices 
along with other supplies, so that for a large 
part of the year they sell at forty to fifty cents 
a dozen for fresh ones ; and wherever you work, 
the proprietor is apt to be keeping close tab 
on the amount of eggs you use. At a place where 
I was once employed, the proprietor came to me 
one day and said, "Frank, eggs have gone up to 
fifty cents a dozen, so be as saving as you can 
with them." "Yes, sir, I will," I answered 
him, and I decided to use the following plan : I 
had been ordering eggs a full case at a time, 
and placing them in the cooler so that each cook 
could help him or herself. In this particular 
place, a full case of eggs lasted two days on an 
average, or sixteen dozen per day. The follow- 
ing day, instead of ordering a case of eggs, I 
ordered five dozen, and I had them placed with 
the garde manger cook, to be issued as ordered 
by the waiters, and I specified what eggs, if any, 



each cook should use. The plan worked Avonders. 
From three or more eases a week, I reduced it 
to about one case a week. It was a little un- 
pleasant at the start, but at the end everyone 
took kindly to it. 

CROUTONS 
A commonly used article for garnishing en- 
trees is fancy cut pieces of bread, fried or toasted. 



B 






Cutting bread croutons: A — First cut; B — Second 
cut; C — Trimmed croutons. 

To make croutons : First trim a section of a 
loaf of bread squarely. Next cut into two tri- 
angle parts. Then trim as fancy suggests. 



COLD STORAGE SUPPLIES 
Where cold storage supplies begin, all that is 
best of culinary art ends. It robs the chef of all 
pride and enthusiasm, and makes him a mere 
mechanic. 

In the heart of the discriminating diner and 
the conscientious cook, cold storage food has 
little place. Some day this matter will be prop- 
erly legislated, at least limiting the time that 
food may be cold storaged; and I want to reg- 
ister my plea of better conditions for humanity's 
cause. 



76 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Larded Tenderloin of Beef. 



LARDED MEATS 

LARDED BEEF TENDERLOIN 

For a larded tenderloin, trim it of the fat on 
top. Leave some of the fat along the side, as 
this will add to the richness and flavor of the 
fillet, and it also tends to retain its juices. 

Next trim off the sinews covering the top of 
the fillet. Leave on the subdivision, or small 
strip of meat that is attached to all tenderloins 
on the opposite side to the fat; that is, the 
little strip next to the chine bone. If you remove 
this, it won't roast so well. When left on, it 
protects the tenderloin proper, and helps to keep 
it rare and juicy. It is now ready for larding. 

Cut the larding pork in proper strips, and 
place them in a bowl of cracked ice to harden 
so they will be easier and better to handle. When 




larded, tie with twine to hold the strip of fat and 
sub-fillet while being braised or roasted. The 
fat and small side of fillet may be trimmed on* 
after slicing. 

LARDED BEEF SIRLOIN 
In larding a beef sirloin, leave a strip of the 
flank about three inches wide (making it nearly 
as wide as you would cut a sirloin steak — about 
one inch or narrower). Next, remove the cover 
of fat and sinew or skin over the strip, taking 
care to leave a firm connection of the flank part 
to the larding part. When trimmed, proceed 
with the larding, and tie with twine as directed 
for a tenderloin. 

LARDED FILET MIGNON 

For larded small tenderloin steaks, cut the 
strips of salt pork longer and heavier than for 
a whole tenderloin, allowing three strips to each 
fillet. 





Braised Beef Short Loin. 



Larded Tenderloin Mignon. 




Larded Sirloin of Beef. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



77 



BEEF A LA MODE 

To lard sauerbraten, or beef a la mode, the 

strips are cut about five-eighths of an inch 

square, and a special larding needle is used. 

The needle I use to advantage for this kind of 





Beef a la Mode (prepared for Pot Roast, or Beef 
a la Mode). 

larding is about a foot and a half length of 
broomstick handle, sharpened at one end, with 
which I make the hole, then push in the larding 
pork, first having pointed the strip. Try it; 
you won 't want to use any other. After larding, 
tie with twine, when it is ready for the pickle. 

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL 

For larded fricandeau of veal, all the leg sec- 
tions are commonly used. 

The origin of names and classifications of the, 
different sections of the leg of veal is French; 
and with the French chef the fricandeau is the 
flat or bottom section. The top section is the 
noix (kernel, in English). The next largest sec- 
tion is the sous noix (in French) and cushion 
(in English) ; but in common practice it is all 
one or the other, and, like the rose by any other 
name, is just as sweet. 

In larding fricandeau of veal, first remove the 
extremely tough skin from the sections. (A 
provision of nature to protect the tender parts 
of a young and tender calf.) Then proceed to 
cover the upper surface with lardons of salt 
pork, cutting the larding strips the same size 
as those used for beef tenderloin. 

LARDED NOISETTES OF VEAL 

Cut some slices from the kernels or cushions 
of veal, flatten them with a cleaver and trim in 
the shape you desire — oblong, round, diamond, 
or heart shape. Have some lardons cut about 
three and a half inches long and three-eighths of 
an inch square, allowing three lardons to each 
noisette, placed equidistant across the center of 
the noisette. 

LARDED LOIN OF VEAL 

Remove the skin covering from the veal, leav- 
ing a part of the flank to be folded underneath. 



Larded kernel of veal. 




Larded fricandeau of veal 




Flat fricandeau of veal. 




Fricandeau, or Noix of Veal. (One of the choice 
sections of leg.) 




Larded loin of veal. 



Then lard the upper surface, after which secure 
it with twine ties. 

This dish can be made of double or single loin, 
and with bone in or bone out. 



78 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



LARDED RACK OF YEAL 
For a larded veal rack, the calf should be of 
a choice quality. An inferior veal is flabby and 
tough, and the rack being of such a loose nature, 
it is a very unsatisfactory article to lard, unless 
of prime quality. Trim the rack, and proceed 
as with the loin. 

LARDED SWEETBREADS 

The heart sweetbread is the choice one for 
larding or stuffing. Other grades are suitable 
for larding, but satisfactory results are only 
obtainable from the heart sweetbread. 

Cut the larding pieces somewhat longer than 
for beef tenderloin, and sew them thru the breads. 




Larded rack of veal. 




Larded rack of lamb. 




Larded half loin of mutton 




LARDED RACK OF LAMB 

The young spring lamb is mostly lean, and is 
often larded when used for an extra nice entree. 
Shape the rack, and remove the skin covering, 
when it is ready for the larding. 

LARDED LOIN OF MUTTON OR LAMB 

The loin of lamb or mutton lends itself nicely 
to larding. For this purpose they should be of 
a lean grade. They may be cut into half loins, 
or left whole. In using a whole loin, it is best to 
remove the bones to facilitate carving. 




Larded veal chop. 



Larded whole loin of mutton. 



LARDED VEAL CHOPS 
Veal chops are nice larded. Choose the best 
chops of a good veal. Trim neatly, and lard 
them the same as veal noisettes. 

LARDED GAME AND POULTRY 

In larding game and poultry it is the general 

custom to cut a slice fitting the breast of the 

bird, and tie in position. It is common to lard 

them with cut lardons as for sweetbreads, etc. 

WILD RICE 

Along in 1912 wild rice could be bought for 
twelve or fifteen cents per pound. Now it costs 
fifty to sixty cents the pound. Several reasons 
have brought (his about— a higher class of cui- 
sine in which the ehef uses it as a garnish for 
wild ducks; and markel manipulation is another. 
[ am informed (hat the supply is practically con- 
trolled by one man. Another reason is because 
of its scarcity. 

To prepare: Soak and wash it well in several 
changes of cold water, then boil as you would 
ordinary rice. It is a novel and classy dish. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



79 




CARVING 

ROAST BEEF CARVING 

Carving has fallen from its high estate of 
the past. I recollect, even in my time, where I 
was once employed as steward, that the pro- 
prietor always assisted me with the carving. It 
was a big first-class hotel in Cincinnati. In 
times past it was a generally established custom 
for the steward to carve. In these days it is all 
done by the cooks; and where they employ a 
butcher, it is often a part of his work to help 
with the carving. Some places attach so much 
importance to carving that they employ special 
expert carvers, and consider themselves well 
repaid. 

The essentials for roast beef carving are a 
good roast of beef, well roasted, a sharp slicer, 
and, of course, a skilled carver. 

I will say to those that would have carving as 
"easy as rolling off a log," to use a colloquial- 
ism, that it can't be done. Carving, of neces- 
sity, means a certain amount of effort. There 
are conditions and ends, to be met and gained. 



There is an easiest and best way, tho, and that 
is what I shall try to show. 

If you are using heavy No. 1 ribs, they should 
be prepared the day before using, and placed in 
the oven at six o'clock in the morning. It ordi- 
narily takes about five hours to roast a No. 1 
rib, and it should "set" about an hour before 
carving. A roast right out of the oven does not 
carve nearly so well as one that has been left to 
"set" an hour. 

Start the roast cooking with the rib side up, 
and let it remain in that position half the time 
required to roast it, then turn to other side and 
finish, only turning the roast once while roast- 
ing; and don't stick the fork into it. Place it 
with the large end toward the back of the oven, 
leaving the small end in the coolest part of the 
oven, towards the oven door. Roasted in this 
position, and with a cover (as illustrated) over 
the small end, the whole rib will remain rare. 
The percent of well done roast beef orders is 
so small that it makes this an important con- 
sideration. 

In arranging the roast for carving, stand it 



80 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



in a large platter. Letting it stand directly on 
the hot carving stand without the protection that 
a platter gives, the end becomes too well done, 
and you lose four or five cuts of rare beef. The 
platter makes handling the roast easier and 
better. 

After trimming the roast, cut off the end slice 
for an outside cut order, and set it aside. If you 
need it, cut apart one rib deep from the top 
end and set aside for well done beef. That de- 
pends largely upon the hotel. In commercial 
hotels well done roast is seldom called for; while 
in family hotels, or where there are many women 
and children, about one-third of the orders are 
for well-done cuts. In such places it is best 
not to protect the small end in roasting, but let 
it cook well done. 

In slicing a cut of roast, don't hold the knife 
too firm or tight. Aim to slice the roast. per- 
fectly level, and carefully cut apart the connec- 
tion of the roast to the rib bones, making that 
cut with the point of a boning knife, and keeping 
an incision or cutaway there of about an inch 
deep, so that in slicing across it will be a finished 
cut. 

How many slices to the size of a roast beef? 
is a question that has a great many different 
answers, as so much depends upon circumstances. 
If a roast is cooked so that you can slice rare 
beef to its full extent, I estimate that a forty- 
pound rib should produce thirty to thirty-five 
orders of average size. That is the average of 
tests I have made. Following are some tests I 
have secured that vary greatly from one another : 

Roast beef test, Hotel Sherman, Chicago, No. 1 : 

Untrimmed rib 45 1 / 4 lbs. 

Trimmed for roasting 36 lbs. 

Weight after roasting 25 1 / 4 lbs. 

Shrinkage • • 10% lbs. 

Carved : 

Regular service slices 35 orders 

End slices 5 orders 

Listed on the bill of fare at GO cents. 

Roast beef test, Hotel Sherman, Chicago, No. 2 : 

Weight of rib. • • 40 lbs. 

Short ribs 6 lbs. 

Shrinkage 8 lbs. 

Bone 3 lbs. 

Carved : 

Regular service slices 28 orders 

End slices 4 orders 

These ribs were roasted extremely rare, which- 
accounts for the comparatively low shrinkage of 
eight and eleven pounds. They serve a liberal 
slice at this hold. 

Roast beef test, Hotel Jefferson, St. Louis 



(An order of roast beef sells at this hotel for 
65 cents) : 

38 lb. rib ......24 slices 

42 lb. rib 27 slices 

45 lb. rib 30 slices 

50 lb. rib .-32 slices 

The Chicago branch of the International 
Stewards' Association held a meeting at the 
Kuntz-Remmler Restaurant in October, 1912, 
and for their dinner a test roast beef was 
served, of which the following report was made : 

Rib, forty pounds @ 27 cents = $10.80. 

ARTtCLE Price Amount 

24 portions roast beef @ 60 cents $14.40 
3 portions short ribs @ 45 " 1.35 



4 sandwiches 
4 portions hash 

15 pounds shrinkage 

42% overhead charges 



@ 35 
@ 50 



1.40 
2.00 



$19.15 
10.80 

$ 8.35 
8.02 

$ .33 



Mr. Kuntz, proprietor of the restaurant, esti- 
mated 42 per cent overhead charges. Henry 
Giebe, of the Stewards -' Association, did the 
carving. 

# * * 

These tests do not take into consideration the 
"extra cut." which is listed on most bills of 
fare. The extra cut generally consists of a double 
thickness sliced with one sparerib attached. 

Most stewards and chefs claim that there is 
little or no profit from roast beef, but this is due 
to the way it is disposed of. Officers are gen- 
erally allowed to have prime roast beef; and 
others who are not allowed a choice often get it, 
such as pantry girls, checkers, storeroom men, 
linen room girls, etc. Give a dozen or so of 
such orders the rib cannot possibly be profitable. 
It is easy and ready to serve, and that has 
weight with the cook, and he is apt to encourage 
its selection. 

I make it a practice to keep No. 2 ribs cut 
into two roasts and have one cooked each day 
for the officers in places that justify it. 

Where there is good refrigeration that will 
permit of it, save the spareribs of beef for 
entrees; also the trimmings for hash, which will 
help the chef a lot toward making roast beef 
profitable. 

ROAST TURKEY CARVING 

In carving poultry an exact and regular sys- 
tem is important. Change it only for special 
orders from diner or employer. I have seen carv- 
ers work thai would hardly ever cut two fowls 
alike; and that is a serious fault. The advan- 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



81 




How to slice the breast, 




tage in carving and serving a turkey is so that 
the whole fowl will be used, leaving only the 
breast bone. Make that the rule, and depart 
from it only when you have to. It requires an 
exact system to do it. That way is the most com- 
mon one of turkey carving; but there are ex- 
ceptions. In some of the higher grade places no 
bone is served with roast turkey, only the sliced 
second joint and breast being used. 

The average amount of raw turkey to the 
order as purchased (only feathers of!) is three- 
quarters of a pound. When cooked, the orders 
should weigh half a pound. That is allowing 




C — The leg cut in six pieces. 



A — Leg, full size; B — Leg, cut for backbone trim. 



82 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




E — The breast trimmed for carving 





F — The unjointed wings, 







G — The neck part of backbone, cut in four pieces. 

twenty-four per cent for refuse (entrails, feet 
and giblets), and nine per cent shrinkage if 
roasted stuffed. It will shrink more if roasted 
unstuffed. 

It is a fair estimate, from tests I have made, 
thai three quarters of a pound of market dressed 
turkey will produce one order of roast turkey, 
average carving- with the bone in. Boneless 
carving would be nearly the same, but the size, 
or dimensions, would be less. 

In following a system, make regular cuts of 
the legs, hack and wings, as illustrated. To 
each order serve one of these cuts and three 
slices of breast, two if large. For this, a tur- 
key weighing about twelve or fourteen pounds 
is best. 







H — The second joint or tail part of back cut in four 
pieces; 1 & 2, "Oyster" part of backbone; 3 & 4, Tail 
part of backbone. 

The weight of a turkey is important from an 
economical carving standpoint. I often see peo- 
ple go in raptures over a great big turkey; but 
it never was a chef. Some chefs cut the pieces 
smaller and serve two with each order. 

Where it is certain that the whole turkey will 
be sold, it is best to cut up the turkey as illus- 
trated, only leaving the breast to be cut as 
ordered. 

There is an advantage in holding the breast. 
Hold it as illustrated, with the inside toward 
the carver, and slicing towards the carver also. 
You strike the grain when slicing the other direc- 
tion, and it is harder to get the required thin- 
ness of slice. 

The turkey illustrated weighed fifteen pounds, 
and produced twenty orders, with some trim- 
mings for hash, etc. 

For ' ' backbone ' ' orders, it is customary to cut 
the backbone in two pieces, lengthwise. Some- 
times it is served w T hole. 

For family table carving, where there can be 
no chopping, the carver must cut thru the joints 
only, and slice from the parts thus made. 

ROAST GOOSE CARVING 

The goose does not carve to the same advantage 
as the turkey. The refuse or unedible portion of 
a goose, as purchased, is about forty per cent. 
It sells for less and is worth less. Its long neck, 
useless wings, and excess of fat are against its 
economic standard. I must say, tho, that its 
fat is very welcome and useful to the chef, equal 
to butter. The same may be said of all poultry 
fat. 

On an average it requires one and one-eighth 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



83 









D 





Carving roast goose: A — Roast goose, showing 
how to roast a wild goose with head on; B — The 
goose leg, unjointed; C — The wishbone section cut 
in two; D — The unjointed wings; E — The breast 
trimmed; F — The leg cut in five pieces; G — Slicing 
the breast. 



pounds of goose as purchased to produce an 
order of roast goose, as carved, for European 
plan service. It is inferior in popular favor, 
too. Still, a good, fat and tender dish of roast 
goose is well received. 

Much that applies to turkey carving can be 
applied to goose carving: Begin by removing 
the wings ; next, cut apart the legs. In this it is 
important that you remove it neatly and en- 
tirely; do not pull it off, as is sometimes done, 
but use the knife in cutting the connection, that, 



the entire leg may be preserved, leaving the car- 
cass back bare; for, unlike the turkey, there are 
no back bone cuts practiced in the goose. Next, 
remove the wishbone section, cutting thru from 
the point of the breast bone. This will give you 
two pieces when cut in two, as illustrated, and it 
makes slicing the breast more proper and profit- 
able. Many carvers make the mistake of leaving 
the wishbone in while carving the breast, and 
it is impossible to slice it clean and full that 
way. 



fe 



84 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




G— Slicing the fere 



In the illustrated goose the legs are cut into 
five sections, but could be, and often are, cut 
smaller. For first-class service, five sections is 
the standard. In all there are ten leg pieces, two 
wishbone pieces, and two wing pieces, which may 
be further cut once in two, and mixed with the 
leg, one piece of each. The breast sliced thirty 
slices. The goose weighed twelve pounds, cost 
eighteen cents per pound, and produced ten 
orders. 

In carving the breast, make a cut clear thru 
the center along the ridge bone of the breast, 
cutting it thus on both sides of the ridge. Hold 
the goose directly on its back, and slice straight 
across as shown in the picture. Hold the knife 
;il a slight angle of the length so that all the 
slices will be as long as possible. 

One or two bottom pieces and three slices of 
the breast, with the dressing, is a standard por- 
tion. 

ROAST DUCK CARVING 

Roast duck is a comparatively poor seller; 



but we must have a change, and that is about 
the most that can be said in its favor. The great 
fault with it is that it is too often thin and 
bony; for the meat itself is quite delicious and 
generally relished. 

A large thick-breasted Long Island duck is 
best carved like the goose. For the Western, or 
ordinary duck, it is generally chopped in four 
pieces (three if small), and two pieces served to 
an order. Some give three. 

Then, again, another common way of carving 
duck, as practiced in the best places, is to split 
the duck in two, and serve a half duck to the 
portion. When serving a half duck to the por- 
tion, my favorite method is to remove the leg 
neatly, and then the half breast, entirely free 
of bone, and serve these two sections to an order. 
That is more acceptable and pleasing to the 
diner. 

The refuse of an ordinary duck will average 
about forty per cent ; but it carves up somewhat 
better than a goose, as more of the bone is served. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



85 




ROAST DUCK CARVING: A— Roast duck cut in 
half; B — The other half cut into four pieces; C — The 
half duck unjointed for one portion, making it less 
bony. 

It will average about seven-eighths of a pound, 
as purchased, to the order, as carved, when cut 
in sections; but in halves it is higher — about one 
and a half pounds, or more. 

ROAST SPRING CHICKEN CARVING 

There are different methods of carving roast 
chicken commonly practiced. In some instances 
a whole baby chicken is served. A one-pound 
chicken is generally used for this. 

Another method is to serve a half chicken, 
using about a two-pound chicken for this serv- 
ice. It is a popular dish with the chef; nice to 
handle; makes a nice order, and has the most 
success with the diner. 

The most regularly recognized roasting 
chicken, as classed by the trade, is a chicken 
weighing about three or four pounds. This is 



the chicken that is packed and labeled" "Roast- 
ers"; but it is mostly sold to private consumers, 
as the average chef much prefers the chicken 
that will cut in half to the single portion. 

To carve a regular roaster: Choose the one 
that will cut into four orders of two pieces each, 
one piece of leg and one piece of breast, making- 
eight pieces of the chicken. Three and a half 
to four pounds is the proper weight. 

Begin by removing the legs, including the 
backbone, so as to give the pieces fullest size. 




E 




Carving roast spring chicken: A — Half the leg, 
showing how to trim the drumstick and leaving a 
part of the second joint attached; B — The other half 
of the leg, all second joint; C — The top part of the 
split breast; D — The inside part of the split breast; 
E — The leg, cut in four pieces; F — Roast chicken 
cut in half. 



86 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER. GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 





B 




B 




B 




B 




Carving capon: A — The breast trimmed for slic- 
ing; B — The leg cut in four pieces; C — The back cut 
in two pieces. 

Cut each leg in two, and in making this cut 
follow closely the illustration. Note that one 
piece has a part of the second joint and the drum- 
si ick cut short. That makes a much better cut 
than Leaving all second joint to one part, and 
all drumstick to the other, which is so often 
done. The diner that gets the drum stick is 
apt to complain, as well he might. By making 
the proper cut, there is little choice between the 
two pieces. 

In carving the breast, cut it in four parts, 



by splitting each side lengthwise into two equal 
parts as near as possible. Be careful not to 
cut into the breast or side bone, but leave a fair 
thickness of meat to the inside slice. After cut- 
ting off the outside slice, remove the inside one 
by running the knife between the neck and 
shoulder bone, cutting it well apart. Next run 
the knife alongside the ridge bone of the breast. 
When these cuts are made, you can pull the in- 
side half of the breast from the bones, which will 
give you a nice full slice. (See illustration of 
split breast of roast chicken.) Follow this by 
splitting the other side of the breast in the 
same way. Carved this way you will have four 
orders of good looking and evenly divided por- 
tions of one piece of breast and one piece of leg 
to the order. 

The percent of refuse, or unedible part, to a 
spring chicken is large, all of forty-one per 
cent in chickens around two pounds, and nearly 
as much in roasters. But it does not figure that 
much in the carving or broiling, etc., for much 
of the bone is served. 

Young chickens, as served, will average about 
one pound to the order, as purchased; quite an 
advantage over all other poultry when you com- 
pare prices of purchase with the prices of sale, 
as generally listed on the bills of fare. It is 
common to see turkey listed at fifty cents, and 
half broiled chicken seventy-five cents. The 
turkey should be priced the same as broilers 
ordinarily. 

CARVING ROAST CAPON 

The capon is generally used only in the high- 
est grade places, owing to its high cost. The 
chef of a more modest establishment will often 
list it on his bill of fare and in its place serve 
hens, chickens, and, at times, a young hen tur- 
key. The capon has the smallest percent of 
refuse of all poultry. It tends more to flesh and 
less to bones, so that the difference in weight as 
purchased and as carved is comparatively light, 
about twenty per cent ; so it makes up some for 
its high cost in that way. At times, when the 
market is oversupplied, the price is brought 
within reach of more ordinary establishments. 
There has been a big development in this fowl, 
and the prices have a tendency to lower. 

In carving a capon, begin by removing the 
legs, always taking care to do it neatly and fully 
with the aid of a knife. I have often seen this 
done more by pulling and tearing than by carv- 
ing, with the result that parts of the leg are left 
to the carcass and lost for carving, being fit 
for scraps only. 

After removing the leg, chop it into four pieces 
as shown in the picture. After finishing the legs, 
trim the breast of the capon as it is pictured. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



87 



In doing this you will get two back pieces from 
the neck end. For an order, place one section of 
the back or leg on the dressing, and cover with 
slices from the breast. 

CARVING CHICKEN FRICASSEE 

In carving chicken fricassee, plan to show up 
the white meat well, and to hide the dark meat. 
The best way to do this is to split the breast 
lengthwise, as shown in the picture, and, as di- 
rected in roast chicken carving; only, when it 
is a hen, plan to have the breast divided into 
three equal parts. To do this cut the inside part 
of the breast into two pieces as shown in the 
illustration. In cutting the leg divide it into two 
pieces, and make the cut so as to make an equal 
division of the second joint. This is done the 
same way as directed in cutting the leg of a 
roasting chicken with the drumstick trimmed, 
as in the picture, with a part of the second joint 
attached. Cut in this way, a hen makes ten 
pieces : six pieces of white, and four of dark. 
There are more calls for white meat than there 
are for dark meat, and for that reason this way 
of carving chicken fricassee is the most advan- 
tageous. 

In some places only white meat is used for 
chicken fricassee. In such cases it is the com- 
mon practice of splitting the whole breast in 
two, and serving a half breast to the order, 
leaving it whole and garnishing with a frill on 
the wing bone. 

For potpies, the hen is cut in small pieces; 
with the bone about all removed, if for baked 
potpie. 

In the garde manger department the leg is 
not much used; not at all in the best places. 
They are set aside for special chicken leg en- 
trees, etc., and the breast is only used, trimmed, 
as in the picture. 

The comparative percent of refuse in the hen 
varies as carved. It will average about thirty 
per cent. The amount of the hen, as purchased, 
when compared to the amount when carved, is 
about one pound of raw chicken to the order 
when it is carved, making about two-thirds of a 
pound of carved fowl to the order. 

GUINEA FOWL 

Carving a guinea hen consists of simply split- 
ting it in two, the same as an order of roast 
spring chicken, and serving a half guinea to the 
order. 

For a gravy you can serve giblet or plain 
brown gravy. For a sauce: new red cherries, 
lemon cling peaches, fresh currant sauce, rhu- 
barb or gooseberry sauce, Concord grape jelly, 
apricot compote, Italian prunes, quince marma- 
lade, grapefruit salad, shredded pineapple, 




B 




Manner of carving chicken fricassee: A — The leg 
cut in two pieces; B — The breast cut in three pieces; 
C — A whole half breast portion; D — Breast split in 
two pieces. 

huckleberry tart, fried bananas, stewed pears, 
damson plum jam, brandied fruit, orange com- 
pote, etc. These sauces may be used with the 
different kinds of poultry. Aim to have as big 
a variety as possible. 

CARVING SPRING LAMB 
In carving spring lamb the aim should be to 
equally distribute the different parts of the lamb. 
In carving baby spring lamb the standard is 
four pieces to the order; and in carving yearling 
spring lamb, the standard is generally three 
pieces to the order. Still, four pieces of year- 
ling lamb is often served also. 

A spring lamb will cut up into 120 pieces on 
an average, if the neck and breast are included. 
This would produce thirty portions when served 



88 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Platter of roast spring lamb. 



four pieces to the order. Yearling lamb sells 
for about forty cents per portion on an average. 
That, you can see, makes the fall or yearling 
lamb about the most profitable meat served. 

For instance : a yearling lamb weighs thirty- 
five pounds, costs fourteen cents per pound, 
amount, $4.90 ; carves 120 pieces, making thirty 
portions; sells at forty cents per portion, 
amount, $12.00. There is usually little garnish 
to roast lamb, possibly a browned potato, a dish 
of green peas, or a dish of golden wax beans, and 
a side of mint sauce. Too bad it is not in better 
demand by the average diner. 

Compare that with a lamb weighing forty-five 
pounds, and you will get an idea of the impor- 
tance of the size of food animals or articles, as 
there is only a slight difference in the cut-up 
generally. 

The baby spring lamb, used for the test on 
spring lambs at Hotel Sherman, produced 
twenty-eight portions. 

In the distribution of pieces for orders : Give 
one slice of leg or shoulder, one piece of breast, 
one piece of loin, and one of ribs, and so on. 

The test lamb cut up thirty-six leg pieces, 







Blocking leg of lamb for carving. 



A — Breast of lamb, cooked, boned and pressed; 
B and C — Epigrames made of pressed lamb breast. 

eighteen shoulder pieces, twenty-four rib pieces, 
sixteen loin pieces, eighteen breast pieces, and 
eight neck pieces, making 120 pieces in all. 

As before mentioned, lamb is not always han- 
dled the same. Some chefs save the loin or 
breast, etc., for special uses. 

A good use for the breast pieces is to cook 
them by steam or boiling; then bone and press 
them and cut into epigrams for frying or broil- 
ing. 

CARVING ROAST VEAL 
Carving roast veal is such simple work there 
isn't much to be said about it. The main thing 
is to have it well butchered; boning and tieing 
it well. Cut it across the grain in neat slices, about 
one-half or two-thirds of a pound to the order, as 
carved. The average refuse of a side of veal 
as purchased. is about twenty-two per cent, and 
at its price is a very profitable meat to the hotel 
or restaurant. The trouble with roast veal is 
that it is such a poor seller. You can sell it 
better in most any other way than roast veal, but 
the chef wants a change, so he persists in roast- 
ing it. 

KOAST PORK 

Roast pork and apple sauce is an old classic. 

I frequently change the listing from apple 
sauce to Tried apples, apple fritters, baked apple, 
slewed prunes, apple jelly, rhubarb sauce, goose- 
berry sauce, etc. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



89 




Method of carving whole Virginia ham, beginning 
at shank end. 




Platter of carved roast pork, with browned potato 

garnish. 

There is little to say about roast pork carving. 
When roasted in loins, cut in slices, serving two 
slices to the portion, one of rib and one of loin. 
Some serve three slices, cutting them thinner. 
A good help to roast pork is to serve a nice 
apple, onion, or sage dressing with it. 

The average refuse of pork loins is twenty 
per cent. 

ROAST PIG CARVING 

For carving the suckling pig to advantage, it- 
should be split in halves for roasting. 



Have a sharp roast chopping knife, and chop 
it in proper pieces. Two pieces to the order 
is the portion most generally served. When 
roasted whole un joint it by cutting off the shoul- 
ders and the hams; split the remaining carcass, 
and chop these joints into the proper size for 



serving. 



For the large pigs: They are best butchered 
as described in the article on pig butchering, 
and carved in the same manner as given for 
spring lamb carving; i. e., serving three or four 
pieces of the different parts to an order. 

The average refuse in pigs is about thirty- 
five per cent, but it doesn't all figure in the 



carving. 



CARVING ROAST HAMS 



The most common way used in roasting a 
ham is to first boil it whole; then trim off the 
skin and edges, sprinkle with sugar, and glaze in 
the oven. 



90 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



I use a different method with sugar cured 
hams, finding it more economical, practical, and 
profitable. Instead of cooking it whole, I pre- 
fer to trim it, split it in two, boning the back 
part and tieing it ; and also tieing the horseshoe 
part. In this way it is much easier to cook and 
better to serve, and there is less waste in the way 
of scraps and trimmings. 





B 



Boned and tied back of ham, for roasting. 

Blocked and tied horseshoe part of ham, for 

roasting. 



For Virginia hams and the like: They are 
best left whole, as they have such an old and 
dry cure that they are difficult to handle any 
other way. 

The average refuse of ham is light, only being 
about ten per cent in the average ham; and as 
the portions weigh light as carved, it is a profit- 
able meat to handle. 

CARVING MUTTON 

The most common piece of mutton used for 
roasting is the leg. There is not much to say 
about it. Block and bone in the same way as 
described and illustrated for the leg of lamb, 
and slice across the grain. 

Roast mutton doesn't sell much, but it is a 
change, a popular priced dish, and profitable, 
so the average chef is friendly with it. 

The loin of mutton is most too classy to use 
for a roast. You can make a better and more 
profitable use of it as an entree of some kind, 
such as Knglish chops, tournadoes, braised, etc. 

The average refuse on a leg of mutton is only 
about fifteen per cent. It is a good article to 
push, but you will have more success with it as 
a combination boiled dish than you will as roast 
mutton. 



TREATMENT OF WOUNDS 
Cuts and burns frequently occur in the kitchen 
and should not be neglected. I have had several 
cases of serious blood poisoning thru neglecting 
the proper care of a wound, and I know of in- 
stances in which it has caused death. A cut 
should be treated with an antiseptic at once. 
Alcohol (not wood alcohol) is one of the best 
treatments to apply. Iodine is all that can be 
desired. Hydrogen peroxide is another. Don't 
wrap a cut with cloth any more than you can 
help. Peroxide retards healing more than iodine. 
Gasoline is a good wash for cleaning a wound; 
so is soap and water. Don't use collodion; it 
keeps out the air. 

For scalds and burns : Soak immediately in a 
strong solution of common cooking soda and 
water, then dress with oil. A bad burn needs a 
doctor's care. 



Too many employers allow their responsibility 
to end with the employment office. 



GRINDSTONES 

The grindstone is an article of great concern 
to the cook; but is often badly neglected and 
abused. I rank it as one of the most important 
articles of equipment of the kitchen, to both 
employer and the cook. A cook cannot possibly 
do justice to butchering and carving with dull 
knives, and the same applies to all the cutting 
done. A dull slicer will soon waste more roast 
beef or turkey than a good grindstone costs. 

Most of the places where I have worked have 
had poor grindstones, badly located. They 
should be in the light, in good repair, and of 
good quality of stone. It is the exception, how- 
ever, when you find these favorable conditions. 

HOT SANDWICHES 

A very noticeable feature of present day 
catering is the sandwich — especially the hot sand- 
wich. They are a prominent feature of popular 
priced and quick lunch places, and many of the 
best hotels run one or more hot sandwiches each 
day. 

As generally made in the European plan hotel, 
two slices of bread are laid on a platter, side 
by side; then the sliced meat is placed on the 
bread, over which is poured the gravy (real 
gravy, not the messy kind), and alongside it 
a garnish of mashed potatoes. When well put 
up, they make a nice luncheon. 

Suggestions for hot sandwiches: 

Hot turkey sandwich, browned sweet potato. 

Hot minced chicken sandwich on toast. 

Hot capon sandwich, oyster sauce. 

Hot fresh ham sandwich, country gravy. 

Hot minced chicken sandwich, a la King. 

Hot roast turkey sandwich, chicken gravy. 

Hot chopped beefsteak sandwich, chili sauce. 

Hut sliced chicken sandwich, egg sauce. 

Hot roast beef sandwich, au jus. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



91 



FISH 

The care and preparation of fish varies in 
different places. In some large hotels they 
employ a fish butcher who has it all to attend 
to. In most places the garde manger cook 
passes all fish orders, and the scaling and clean- 
ing is done by the chicken butcher, the fireman, 
or the panwasher. 

Since the price of meats has risen so high, 
it has increased the consumption of fish, and 
the up-to-date steward and chef are paying 
fish more attention. Formerly it was the gen- 
eral custom to have but a few fish listed on the 
bill of fare, but at present you will often see 
ten or fifteen listed, and it is featured as much 
as the entree. Some places have daily specials 
of fish, and a big variety, prepared in various 
ways; the purpose being to sell as much fish 
and as little meat as possible. With present 
comparison of prices most fish can be handled 
more profitably than meat. 

The percentage of refuse in fish is high, 40 
per cent on an average; but it does not figure 
so high as it is served or purchased, and when 
compared with poultry, it figures a better service 
per cent. While it loses to meat in this re- 
spect, it leads meats in respect of average 
prices, and in weight of portions as compared 
with the purchase weight and service weight. 

The best selling fish have the least per cent of 
waste as a rule. Such fish as halibut, red snap- 
per, bluefish, fresh cod, trout, salmon, etc., are 
drawn, and may have the head off, too. Indi- 
vidual fishes that weigh a pound generally sell 
at a good profitable price, such, for instance, as 
individual black bass, pompano, sole, and others. 
It is safe to say that fish is more profitable 
than most meats. The Childs restaurants, for 
instance, list fish every day now, whereas for- 
merly they only served it on Friday. 

Many chefs make it a practice to have fish 
entrees, especially during Lent and all East 
days. 

When listing a large variety of fish on the 
bill of fare it is best to have all but a few 
cooked to order, as most of them cook in 
eight or twelve minutes. 

There is little stability in the market price of 
fish. Much depends on supply and demand. 
If the catch has been poor, owing to storms or 
other cause, the prices go up. When fishing is 
good, with a big supply, they go down. There 
is generally a new schedule of prices every 
day, but the consumer as a rule reaps less 
advantage than the dealers, thanks to refrigera- 
tion. 

For fish cleaning, a stout pair of scissors, a 
scale scraper, and knife are the needed tools. 






v>^ 



*--■>>:>* 



Whitefish. 



WHITEFISH 

In its own section of the country the white- 
fish of the great lakes is as much of a food 
staple as granulated sugar. The dealers are 
never out of whitefish. If there is no fresh 
the frozen can always be had. Whitefish suffers 
severely from cold storage, as it is of a rather 
delicate flavor and texture. Much of the fro- 
zen fish is marketed during the season that the 
fresh may be had, as it sells for less than the 
fresh, owing to the dealers wanting to replace 
it with a fresh supply. The fresh whitefish has 
become so generally high-priced that ordinary 
places cannot afford to handle it. There is 
more profit in the average meat dish than there 
is in whitefish at eighteen or twenty-five cents 
per pound, the latter being a common price 
for Jumbo whitefish. 




Jurr.bo whitefish. 



The weight of a fish is an important con- 
sideration for the chef. It should cut into a 
certain number of portions, which varies in 
different places. An average standard portion 
of whitefish is two-thirds of a pound. Some serve 
half a pound, and some serve a pound. The 
price on the bill of fare should regulate the 
size of the portion. 

The Jumbo whitefish is supposed to begin at 
five pounds up. 

For planking, the large fish is much the best, 
but, owing to its high price, comparatively few 
places use it. One ingenious steward, I learn, 
has resorted to the expedient of doubling the 
small fish for planking, laying one piece on 
top of the other. 

One of the best tests you can put fish to is 



m^^^^^m^r 




Planked whitefish. 






92 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



to broil it. Whitefish takes one hundred per 
cent in that test. When fresh it will broil to 
the color of 22 carat gold. 

Whitefish generally has first place in the heart 
of the diner or chef who knows it. The pity 
of it is the cold storage article ! 

The per cent of refuse in whitefish is high, 
as caught, over fifty per cent. 

One reason that fish is often more profitable 
than meat is that it is generally better butch- 
ered. There is not so much chance of going 
wrong with a fish in that respect, as there is in 
meats. The cuts are few and simple in fish. 
BLACK BASS 

The black bass is one of the most universally 
popular of our fishes, both to the diner and the 
fisherman. There are two species of bass, the 
big mouth and the small mouth, with numerous 
varieties of each. It is extensively planted, 
and generally thrives well. For the man that 
likes fishing, the black bass is one of his best 
loves. It is plucky, brave, and game to the 
last when hooked; a pulling, rushing, leaping 
fighter that thrills your whole being. 

Black bass is a game fish and protected by 
the game laws. It is one of the high-priced 
fishes, and only a limited class of places can 
afford to handle it. It runs high in refuse, too, 




Big-mouth black bass. 




Small -mouth black bass. 




about 55%, but it doesn't all figure as served, it 
being served with the head on. 

The favorite black bass for serving is the 
individual one-pound bass. The two-pound 
bass cut in two is a choice size also. The Jum- 
bo bass cut in four is next. When split in two, 
leave the head on; but for the four piece bass 
the head is best off. The smaller ones are gen- 
erally cut into fillets ; that is, boned and skinned 
half s with the heads off, three fillets to the por- 
tion. 

STRIPED SEA BASS 
The striped sea bass is generally to be had 
of inland dealers, and is a nice fish when fresh, 
especially for boiling and baking. The great 




Striped sea bass. 



fault with this fish is that it is a poor keeper, 
much of the shipped supply being bad, espe- 
cially if it has been frozen. This fish can be 
had from one up to twenty-five pounds in 
weight. The edible portion of a striped bass 
is about the same as a black bass when of 
equal size, about 45 per cent edible. 

BLACK SEA BASS 
The black sea bass has become quite plentiful, 
a lot of it being frozen. It keeps but little 
better than the striped bass, its belly rotting 




Black sea bass. 



Rock bass. 



very quickly. Most of this fish supply is small 
in size; ranging from one to two pounds. This 
fish will average sixty per cent in refuse. It 
lias a big head and tapering body to tail. 

Other common varieties of the bass fishes are 
the white bass, yellow bass, rock bass, and fresh 
water striped bnss. These are all small and 
used for frying whole, or pan fish as they are 
generally called. 

HALIBUT 

The halibut is one of the best of food fishes. 
It is generally liked, has great food value, is 
comparatively cheap, in unlimited supply, and 
very little waste, the refuse being only seven 
or eight per cent. It is a nice fish for the chef 
to handle It can be broiled, fried, baked, or 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



03 




Halibut, as purchased. 



boiled, which is a big advantage. 

When the halibut is young and small it is 
commonly called "chicken halibut." 

The extra large halibut are of an inferior 
quality. It stands cold storage comparatively 
well. It is a useful fish to the chef in ban- 
quet service. He commonly makes it take the 
place of various kinds of fish, such as fillet of 
sole, fillet of flounder, and English turbot. It 
is equally well received by the high and the 
low. In whatever way you consider halibut, it 
rates well. 

SALMON 

The salmon no doubt takes first rank • as a 
food fish, certainly in quantity. 

There are five species of sea salmon. They 
are the quinnat, which is also known as the 
chinook and king salmon and comes mostly 
from the Columbia and Sacramento Rivers. 
The red salmon, also known as the blueback, 
which is the main supply of the Alaska salmon 
canneries. Next comes the silver salmon; fol- 
lowed by the hump-backed salmon; and last 
and least, the dog salmon. 

Of these, the quinnat is rated much the best, 
and sells for much the highest price. The red 



or blue back, ranks next in quality and price, 
followed by the silver, hump-back, and dog 
salmon in the order named. 

There is also what is known as the steelhead 
salmon, but by the naturalist it is classed as 
a trout. 

The best way to distinguish the quinnat or 
chinook salmon is by the tail. The genuine has 
little black spots on its tail. It is the largest 
of the salmon family, weighing as high as one 
hundred pounds. As a fresh fish the salmon is 
not a. best seller, its greatest value being as a 
canning fish. 

The landlocked salmon is a fresh water 
salmon. 

The refuse of the salmon is about 35%, 
but much of it comes to market with the head 
off and drawn, which lessens the per cent of 
loss to the consumer one-half. 

The most popular ways of serving salmon are 
in form of steaks and fillets, boiled and cold. It 
is also a nice fish smoked, and in salads. 

CODFISH 

The fresh cod is one of the greatest of food 
fishes. A great amount of it is consumed fresh, 
but probably a greater amount of it is salted. 




Quinnat or Chinook salmon, as purchased. 



94 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 




Fresh codfish as purchased, head off and drawn. 

Much of the salt cod on the market, the cheap 
brands, is in reality haddock, a much inferior 
fish. 

The refuse of fresh cod runs from about 45 
to 55 per cent, but it is generally marketed 
with the head off and drawn, so that the per 
cent of loss to the consumer is comparatively 
light. This fish is best scalloped, boiled, or 
fried in steaks. The cod is generally well 
liked, and ranks with the best as food. 

HADDOCK 

The fresh haddock is one of the cheapest of 

fresh fishes, and that is based on its real value. 

As a fresh article of food, it is very inferior. 

It has little or no flavor. In fuel value it is 




A — Haddock; B — Finnan haddie. 



one of the lowest. Its flesh is soft and crumbles, 
and it is generally marketed with the head on, 
no doubt because of its cheap price. In refuse 
it will average over fifty per cent. 

The haddock owes most of its commercial 
success to the fact that it is with this fish that 
finnan haddie is made. As haddie it is a very 
welcome food. 

The fresh haddock is best baked in a white 
sauce. 

TROUT 

There are many varieties of trout. The lead- 
ing trout as food is the trout of the Great 
Lakes. Immense quantities of these are caught, 
and it is a fish staple of first rank in its sec- 
lion of the country. From most every standard 
of test it ranks high. The large ones are gen- 
erally too fat, and it suffers, in common with 
the whitefish, from cold storage (it being such 
a popular and desirable fish that the dealers 
never allow the supply to run short, keeping it 
up with the cold storage article). It possesses 




Lake trout. 



many advantages for the chef. It can be pre- 
pared in all ways. Its price is comparatively 
reasonable, and it is a good seller. Its per 
cent of refuse, as marketed, is about 35 per 
cent. 

BROOK TROUT 
There are many varieties of this class of 
trout. It is a game fish, and so protected. This 
is the classiest of all fish in every way you 
take it; in price, in sport, or in food. Only 
the highest grade places serve this fish. The 
dealers charge from fifty to eighty cents a 
pound for the choice varieties. They are 




Speckled brook trout. 



graded in size, from one to three fish being 
served to an order of the smaller species. The 
favorite manner of serving them is fried with 
brown butter, commonly called "meuniere." 
There are some large varieties that are not so 
choice or expensive, such as the steel head, lock 
haven, and rainbow, unless it is when they are 
fingerlings, or small. 

Brook trout makes a swell cold dish. 

PIKE 

The pike of commerce is a fine food and sport 
fish. It is different to the pike of science as 
classed by the naturalist. Authorities on ich- 
thyology call the pickerel, as we generally know 
it, the common pike, making mention of it as 
being known as the pickerel. Our real pike is 
listed by them as such and named the wall-eyed 




Wall-eyed or yellow pike. 




Sanger or sand pike. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



95 



pike, the sauger or sand pike, and others little 
known. 

The sanger pike is the one generally used as 
"baby" or individual pike. The wall-eyed pike 
grows to a large size. As food, it is one of 
the best of fresh water fishes. It is best fried 
or baked, but can be boiled or broiled. The 
per cent of refuse hi pike is large. It has a 
rather large head, and a big per cent of entrails 
and bones. It will average over sixty per cent 
in unedible portion as caught. 
PICKEREL 

The pickerel is common and cheap. It is not 
relished as food, being full of forked bones 
and of inferior flavor. Many places use it on 
account of its low price. When it is skinned 
for cooking, it loses much of its unpleasant 



mmwm 7 ^ 






Pickerel 



taste. It is the shark of fresh waters, and 
therefore greatly disliked by the sportsman. 
It is very thrifty and numerous in spite of not 
being protected by the game laws. Rather than 
not catch any fish at all, the average angler wel- 
comes a strike from it. It has nearly fifty 
per cent refuse. 

PERCH 

The perch is a low priced and popular food 
fish. There are many varieties, both of salt 
and fresh water. The white is the most com- 
mon of the sea perch, and is a nice pan fish, 
weighing around a pound. The yellow is the 
leading fresh water perch. There is a Jumbo 




Yellow perch. 



grade, weighing nearly a pound on the average, 
but the great supply is of a smaller grade. 

The full refuse of perch will exceed sixty 
per cent, but as served it is only about 35 per 
cent. 

THE SHAD 

The shad is a great food producer when its 
roe or eggs are considered. The fish itself is 
not much of a success. It has a peculiar rancid 
flavor, and an extreme amount of vicious bones 
that prevent its being patronized as food. Its 
roe, however, is a great delicacy and a most 




Roe shad and shad roe. 



popular article of food. There is a big cold 
storage supply of roes and when not frozen 
oo long, they are very acceptable. 

The canned shad roe has come into recent 
use and is extensively used. They are cheap 
and delicious, they are preferable to the cold 
storage roes. 

The best way to handle roe is to blanch them 
gently but well in a flat pan, so as not to have 
them lay over one another, using salted water 
with some skim milk added. They are more 
quickly broiled or fried in this manner, and 
it overcomes their tendency of being too dry. 
The shad will run seventy per cent of refuse 
on an average. That is extremely high. But 
few regret it. 

BLUEFISH 
One of the most desirable of sea fishes is the 
bluefish, and it is shipped to all inland markets. 
To be at its best it should be quite fresh, as 




Bluefish. 



it quickly gets soft after being caught. Large 
quantities of it are put in cold storage, but it 
does not stand the treatment well. It is best 
broiled or baked. Bluefish as we get it, with 
entrails removed, will run nearly fifty per cent 
refuse. It has a large head. 

FLOUNDERS 

The flounder is a common and popular sea 

fish. There are numerous varieties of this flat 

fish. The chef is generally fond of it as it 

makes a good classy fillet that can be served in 




A species of flounder. 



96 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



great variety of ways. It is often served whole, 
when of order size, but the favorite method of 
preparing it is to cut the meat from the bones 
in four fillets, or sections, lengthwise along the 
lines of its natural division. 

Fishermen of the seas often trim the fillets 
themselves from the fluke, skate, and other 
varieties of this fish, and sell them in this form; 
but of course this kind of fish food is not 
shipped. 

The flounder is popular with the chef for ban- 
quet use, as it is generally satisfactory and nice 
to handle. 

For a modest priced banquet the chef fre- 
quently cuts and serves halibut to serve the 
same purpose of sole or flounder. 

There is a big per cent of refuse to the 
flounder, over sixty per cent, on an average ; but 
served as fillets the orders, as served, are gen- 
erally light— under half a pound. 

SOLE 

Not once in a hundred times that you see 
sole on the bills of fare is it really served. 
Ninety-nine times and more it is halibut, or 
some kind of flounder. The real sole of science 




A species of domestic sole. 



is comparatively scarce and high. Genuine Eng- 
lish Channel sole is one of the most costly of 
fishes and it has to be a Blackstone to serve it. 
Our domestic sole are scarce, and mostly con- 
sumed at the sea shore. While I was at the 
Del Monte Hotel of Monterey, Cal., I had a 
most delicious sole every day that was caught 
in (lie bay. I never saw this fish shipped in- 
land. It bas about the same per cent of refuse 
as the flounder, which it resembles in shape. 

KINGFISH 

This is another classy sea fish, the most of 
which is kept for home consumption, but you 
oil en see it listed on the bills of fare in all 
sections, especially if the chef is from New 
York. It is quite a bony fish, much like our 




Kingfish. 



pike, and the per cent of refuse is nearly sixty 
per cent. 

WEAKFISH 

The weakfish is a popular seaside fish both for 
food and sport. It is comparatively scarce, 




Weakfish. 



and a rather poor keeper, so that little of it gets 
inland. It is a fine food fish, and weighs from 
one to two pounds on an average, with about 
fifty per cent refuse. 

CRAPPIES 

The crappie is a relative of the bass. It is a 

choice pan fish. There is quite a large supply 

of the order size, but more of them run two 

to an order. It is a game fish, and is a favorite 




Crappie. 



with the angler. They keep together in cer- 
tain haunts, and when they are in a biting 
mood you can fill the boat with them, but you 
must have live minnows for bait. Crappie is 
often misspelled croppie. 

SUNFISH 
The sun fish is one of the most common and 
plentiful of the fresh water lake fish. There 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



97 




Sunfish. 



are several varieties of them. "When of a good 
size they cannot be excelled as a pan fish. 
They are so eager for the hooked worm that 
few of them survive to maturity, and it seems, 
from my experience of fishing for them, the 
biggest ones get the first helping of the afore- 
said worms. They are so small that they are 
hard to scale. A good plan is to scald them, like 
a chicken, for scaling. 



gave catfish its name did a 



CATFISH 

The man that 
great wrong. He brought an undying prejudice 
against a meritorious food fish, I am sure. In 
fresh fish fuel value the catfish is only equalled 
by one other kind, the salmon. Some varieties 
of catfish are delicate and most delicious. . The 
channel catfish is probably the best. It is 
rather scarce and commands private sale gen- 




Channel catfish (distinguished by its forked tail). 

erally. The blue cat is a choice variety also, 
as are some of the sea catfish. The Mississippi 
cat is a big and very inferior kind. It seems 
to be dying out by extermination. As caught, 
with the head on, it has a large per cent of 
refuse, but as purchased when large, drawn, and 
head off, it figures only about twenty per cent 
refuse. 

MASKALONGE 
This fish is highly prized as food by con- 
noisseurs, and by the anglers. It is generally 
given first place of the fresh water game fish. 
It is protected to such an extent by the game 
laws, and so scarce, that it is not a market com- 
modity of much consequence. "Boiled maska- 



longe, egg sauce," or "baked with dressing " 
are the favored ways of serving it. 

MACKEREL 

The mackerel is a most important and numer- 
ous fish of many varieties. The most common 
food varieties are the fresh and Spanish mack- 
erel. When you consider the preserved and 
fresh supply, the fresh mackerel takes place 




Fresh mackerel. 



with the leading food fish supplies. There is 
always a full market supply of this fish, the 
frozen replacing the fresh. The cold storage 
article is not much good when frozen too long. 
It averages about forty-five per cent in refuse. 
As a fresh fish food it does not sell very well; 
it has a peculiar and strong sharp taste that 
does not meet with general favor. In fuel value 
it is above the average. Broiling, and some- 
times baking, is the general manner of serving 




Spanish mackerel. 



the mackerel when fresh. The Spanish mackerel 
is not used for salting, but much of it is pre- 
served by canning and smoking. 

SMELTS 
The smelt is a great favorite. There are two 
common varieties on the market, the silverside 
and the blue smelt. This is a very small sea 
fish, and three to six are served as an order, 
unless they are of the Jumbo grade, when less 
are served. In the Pacific ocean they have 




Silver smelt. 




Blue smelt. 



98 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



a variety that is of quite large size, one of 
which is often enough for an order. They are 
commonly served fried whole, or boned; also 
broiled, and stuffed and baked. These fish 
are quite a favorite for banquets. 

POMPANO 

The pompano is a highly praised and expen- 
sive sea fish, and generally conceded to be one 
of the best of food fishes in point of delicacy. 
It is quite plentiful, and commonly served in 
the better places. 

A high priced fish is generally hard to dis- 
pose of, as the average diner gives preference 
to something more solid when he has to pay 




the price. That is no doubt the reason the 
pompano sells so poorly. Then, again, the 
frozen article is often served, and fish suffers 
more than any other food in this respect. It 
is a common occurrence for the diner to ask 
whether fish or poultry is cold storage before 
he will give his order. 

The refuse of pompano will average about 45 
per cent. The favorite way of serving it is in 
fillets, saute meuniere. 

OCEAN PAN FISH 
There are a lot of small sea fish used for 
frying, or pan fish. Some of the most common 
and popular are the white perch, porgies, and 
butter fish. These varieties can ordinarily be 
had at inland markets. They are popular and 




low priced, and make a good addition to the 
list of fish. 

CISCO 
The genuine cisco is a scarce fish. Most of 
the fish served under this name are the common 
lake herring, which is plentiful and cheap. 




Cisco. 



The real article comes mostly from Lake 
Geneva, Wis., and Lake Tippecanoe, Ind. It 
is a small fish, and requires about two to the 
order. Saute meuniere is the favorite way of 
serving it. 

EELS 
The eel has always been quite a well favored 
food fish, of which there is a great variety, both 
of fresh and salt water kinds. It is most too 







Common eel. 



fat for the average diner, and as a fresh food 
article, it is in poor demand. It is extensively 
preserved by canning and smoking. When 
served fresh it is most commonly stewed or 
fried. 

RED SNAPPER 

The red snapper is the source of a big food 

fish supply, of which there is always a full 

cold storage article. It is one of the cheaper 

fishes, and largely favored for that reason. As 



A — White sea perch; B — Butter fish; C — Porgie. 




Red snapper, as caught 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



99 



caught it is high in refuse, but as purchased it 
will run under fifty per cent. Baking and 
boiling is the most common way of cooking it. 

SHEEPSHEAD 
In some sections the sheepshead is plentiful 
and quite popular. It is cheap, and altho 




Sheepshead. 



rather bony with a large percentage of refuse, 
it is otherwise a very satisfactory article of 
food. 

SWORDFISH 

On the Atlantic coast of the United States 
the capture of swordfish forms a regular branch 
of the fishing industry. The supply is confined 
to adjacent territory. What is not disposed of 
as fresh meat is pickled in brine, and nearly 
every New England grocery store keeps a barrel 
of salt swordfish, which is generally preferred 
to salt mackerel. Swordfish is a most acceptable 
article of food, and has many points of excel- 
lence. It is nearly all solid meat and has a 
very low percent of refuse. In food value it 
ranks with the best. In flavor it is fine, much 
like bluefish. In texture it is coarse; the thick, 
fleshy, muscular layers resembling the halibut. 
The meat is sold in steaks and is fine broiled or 
boiled. The Atlantic coast species attains a 
length of 12 ft. and a weight of 400 pounds. 

There are many species of the fish, such as 
spearfish, sailfish, garfish, etc. The geographical 
range of the various species of the swordfish 
is well nigh world-wide. The Mediterranean is 
a noted fishing ground for one species weighing 
up to 100 pounds and of a most excellent qual- 
ity. Its pugnacity of nature is in keeping with 
its physical equipment, which makes it the most 
formidable fighter of the seas, and it readily 
vanquishes the shark or whale in combat. 

The}- are hard to catch. Professional fisher- 
men harpoon them from a "pulpit" in the bow- 
sprit of a formidable sailing craft, as a fight- 
ing swordfish would quickly demolish a dory or 
row boat. It is claimed that the plague of man- 



eating sharks on the Atlantic coast, recently, is 
largely due to the fast diminishing swordfish, 
which formerly kept the sharks away. 

CARP 

The carp is the most despised and despicable 
of all fish. As a food it is about the lowest of 
any with a pretense to such. It is the sparrow 
of the waters, a sucker that will not take the 
angler's bait, but gets his living largely by 
robbing the nests of his betters and thus ex- 
terminating them. Wherever it gets planted, 
there is little chance for other species. It has 
become a scourge, and no expedient yet tried 
has been equal to its extermination. Any one 
who has had a lake fall to its prey can appre- 
ciate what I say and feel. If it only would 
bite like the sunfish, we would soon be rid of 
this pest! 

There are food fishes, other than those men- 
tioned, that are in common every day use, that 
need no special comment, such, for instance, as 
bulk oysters, clams, shrimps, scallops, frog 
legs, soft shell crabs, etc. 

DUNGENESS OR CALIFORNIA CRAB 

A fish food that has come into recent local 

(Chicago) prominence, is the Dungeness or 

California crab. It contains sweet and lumpy 

meat. All the leading dealers keep a good sup- 




Dungeness or California crab. 



ply of these delicious hard shell crabs. They 
are cooked in the shell by boiling before being 
shipped. They are commonly served cold, cut 
and cracked, like cold lobster. They are nice 
served Ravigote style, by cutting their own shell 
in two and stuffing them with the meat the same 
as any other crab meat, ravigote. 

Fresh crab meat is so expensive that com- 
paratively few places use it. A good sub- 
stitute is the Giant crab meat, canned in Japan. 
It can be used in the same manner as the fresh 
for chafing dish specials, salad, cocktails, etc. 



100 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



"When using crab meat for a cheap banquet 
or entree the chef often mixes flaked cod, white- 
fish or halibut with the crab meat as an eco- 
nomical expedient and subterfuge. 
OPENING OYSTERS 

In many places there is no regular oyster 
opener, and it falls to the cook to do it, so a 
few lines about this work may not be amiss. 

The oyster has what is called the flat, or shal- 
low, shell, and the deep shell. The flat shell is 
dark in color, and is the bottom shell on which 
the oyster rests. The deep shell is much lighter 
colored than the flat shell, and is the top shell. 

To open an oyster: Hold it with the flat or 
dark shell up, and the deep, or light, one down. 

There are three ways of opening an oyster 
commonly used. One is to begin at the hinge end 
of the oyster; that is, the end where the shells 
are joined together. Place the oyster knife in 
the joint securely ; then twist the knife to break 
the connection. Don't push on the knife. That 
is the most common fault of those opening 
oysters. After having the knife well placed 
in the joint, merely twist the knife. If you 
push on it, you make a hard job of it, and 
are liable to run the knife into your own hand. 
Besides, you are apt to give the oyster a good 
slash in the liver, and so unfit it for good serv- 
ice. Hold the knife easy, only twisting it 
enough to break the joint. After breaking the 
joint, cut the "eye" loose from the dark shell, 
and remove it. Then cut the oyster loose from 
the other, or deep shell. 

Another way often used is to hold the oyster 
in the same way with the flat and dark side up, 
and begin at the side right opposite to the 
'eye." First look to see where the dark shell 
and the light shell come together, and at that 
line run in the point of the oyster knife, aimed 
at the "eye." Do this easy, too. It takes but 
little force to get the knife in here. The most 
important thing is to strike the right place. The 
common mistake is made here, as in the other 
way, of pushing too hard. The easier you can 
do it, the better. After you have the point of 
the opener in, twist it just a little from side 
to side, aiming at the eye. Cut the eye from 





Opening oyster from side. 



the top side first, and remove it, and cut loose 
the deep shell afterward. 

Some orders are for oysters served on the 
flat shell, as the diner figures that he is surer 
of getting fresh opened oysters that way; those 
opened ahead, if any, being on the deep shell. 

A third way of opening oysters is the one 
used to open them in large quantities. That is 
done with an oyster anvil, and a heavy steel 
oyster knife. The mouth end of the oyster is 
broken on the anvil to make room for the 
pointed end of the knife, with which the open- 
ing is finished. This method is best for the 
large varieties of oysters. 

DASHEENS 
The dasheen is an old Chinese vegetable that 
has come into some recent notice and use in 
America. It grows in the ground like a potato, 
but has more of the characteristics of the taro 
root of the Sandwich Islands. There is only a 
small supply as yet. It has important food value, 
and is relished for a pleasant nutty flavor. The 
tops, when young and tender, make nice greens. 




*§ «» :?£ 

S - SB" i w 



FSFl 



^c 












<b& 




Opening oyster from end. 



Dasheens. 






THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



101 



GARDE MANGER REFRIGERATION 

The most important part of the garde manger 
department is the refrigeration. It is here that 
is kept all the delicatessen supplies, cold meats, 
part of the perishable green groceries, cooked 
salad supplies, prepared garnishes for sonps 
and entrees, asjDics, galantines, ready sances, cro- 
quette preparations, a la carte soups, a lot of 
opened and partly used supplies, expensive rel- 
ishes, cold entrees, etc. It is a big storehouse of 
more or less expensive and perishable supplies, 
the very life of which depends on good refrigera- 
tion. In modern hotelkeeping it is about the 
most important interest of the kitchen. 

BONED FOWL 

This work is done in the garde manger depart- 
ments, when they exist. 

Special poultry should be ordered for this. 
Poultry that has been frozen any length of time, 
scalded or drawn, is not suitable. They should 
be fresh and dry picked; and if drawn before 
boning, it leaves a big hole that must be sewed 
up before filling. 

First singe the fowl, turkey, capon, chicken, 
or whatever it may be (the same directions will 
apply to all). Begin by cutting off the feet a 
little above the knee joint; the wing at the second 
joint; and with the neck, cut the skin an inch or 
two from the head around the neck, and- then 
cut along the length of the neck from the back, 
removing the neck bones and leaving the skin 
attached to the fowl. Next continue the cut 
made in removing the neck along the full extent 
of the fowl's back. Then with a small boning 
knife begin removing the flesh from the carcass, 




Boned turkey, prepared for boiling. 




Slice of boned turkey. 



taking care not to cut through the skin, and 
not to leave any meat on the carcass. 

When you come to where the wings and legs 
connect, cut thru the joints, leaving the wing 
and leg bones in until you have removed the 
main carcass. The hip joints are hard to run the 
knife thru, owing to their socket construction, so 
use the cleaver to disconnect them, but tap 
lightly, as you may otherwise rupture the skin. 
When you reach the point, in the breast bone 
be cautious, as a cut in the skin is easily made 
here; also over the backbone. Having finished 
the main carcass, there still remains the wing 
and leg bones, which are to be carefully removed, 
operating from the inside, pulling through the 
skin of wings and legs as you would pull a 
coat sleeve inside-out. 

Before stuffing, distribute the meat evenly, 
placing the fillets in the neck region, and spread- 
ing the second joint. 

BONED FOWL FILLING 

To make the forcemeat most commonly used 
for boned fowl: Take one part veal, one part 
fresh pork, and one part chicken flesh. (Some 
omit the chicken.) Use enough of these meats 
to properly fill the boned fowls. Chop or grind 
them fine, then work in the mortar. Season with 
sherry, brandy, salt, pepper, and nutmeg; add 
eggs and cream. Rub thru a sieve or tammy. 

To fill the boned fowl: Spread the fowl on 
table, covering the inside with a layer of force- 
meat; then garnish with strips of larding pork, 
tongue, truffles, pistachio nuts, laying them al- 
ternately lengthwise of the fowl. Cover these 
with a layer of forcemeat, then place another 
layer of garnish, and cover with the forcemeat. 

The garnish can be made in a variety of ways. 
The idea is to give the sliced galantine a mosaic 
effect when sliced. When filled, draw the edges 
together and sew them on, when it is ready to 
wrap and tie in a cloth, to be boiled and then 
pressed. 

SMOKED CORNED BEEF 
For the garde manger department smoked 
corned beef is a comparatively new dish, and a 
good addition for the a la carte or European 
plan of service. It sells at about twenty-five 
cents per pound. In warm weather, with potato 
or cabbage salad, it is in good demand. 

FEMALE LOBSTER 

In the case of the female lobster, Rudyard 
Kipling's imputation does not apply, for, in 
this case, the female of the species is the best, 
at least for eating. An order for broiled lobster 
frequently comes to the kitchen with the stipu- 
lation that it must be a female. 

There is an infallible way of identifying the 



102 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 










A — Female lobster: B — male lobster. 



male and female. On the under side of the lob- 
ster's tail there are some tentacles, a row on 
each side, extended the full length of the tail. 
In the male lobster you will find the first pair 
of these, at the end of the tail nearest or toward 
the head, are of a hard bone formation, while 
those of the female are of a soft, leathery and 
pliable formation. So, when you get an order 
for female lobster, examine these little tentacles 
on the tail, and choose the lobster with a soft 
pair of tentacles as described. 

LIVE GREEN TURTLE 

I was once employed as head butcher in a 
large hotel where they had a standing order for 
one live green turtle each month during the 
turtle season. (In hot weather turtle soup is 
not in demand, and it is a closed season for 
them.) It was part of my work to butcher these 
turtles. 

At the present time the average hi rue I miles 
that reach the market sell for about twenty-two 
cents per pound, and weigh from 125 to 100 
pounds. The larger ones are generally sent to 
the canneries. 

It is a common saying among cooks that there 
are seven kinds of meal in a green turtle. The 
meat dor which they are so highly prized by 

od livers is the delicious gelatinous green sub- 
stance thai comes from the shell which appears 
so after it has been cooked. Tl is not all of 
a green color; part of it, mostly from the lower 



shell, being white. This is the part that is cut 
into dice and served in soup. There are some 
cheap brands of canned green turtle on the 
market that contain lean, fat, liver, and green, 
all mixed, but the way it is prepared by the 
classy chef is the one I shall give. 

In butchering a turtle first hang it by the 
hind fins with either rope or meat hooks. Then 
cut its head off. They are perfectly harmless, 
but on feeling the knife will draw in the head, 
which can be prevented with a hook or fork. 
Let it hang over night to be well drained of 
blood. 

Begin by removing the lower shell. This can 
be done while hanging, or by laying it over a 
garbage barrel. In removing this lower shell 
first cut all around the edge, then cut it off, 
much the same way as you would remove the 
skin of a calf, not leaving any meat to the shell. 
Chop this shell into about four pieces and set 
aside. Next empty the turtle of its entrails, 
saving the heart and also the eggs, if any. Then 
remove the lower quarters, cutting as much with 
the knife as you can, and finishing with the 
cleaver. Remove the forequarters in the same 
way. You then chop the back shell into six or 
eight pieces. From the quarters remove what 
you want of the mealiest parts for turtle steak, 
which sells pretty good as an entree. Next, 
remove the skin from all the quarters or fins, 
and bone, saving the meat to be ground up as 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



103 



you would for consomme meat to be used in 
clarifying the turtle stock later on, and saving* 
the bone for stock. Blanch the pieces of shell 
in boiling water for a few minutes, and remove 
the outer skin. Treat the head in the same 
manner. 

Next, proceed to make the stock, using all the 
bones and shell. As soon as the shells have 
boiled enough, take out and remove the white 
and green gelatinous substance to be cooled 
and cut into dice for the soup. 

When the stock is finished, proceed as you do 
with consomme, adding about twice as much 
chopped shank beef as you have of chopped 
turtle meat; and the shank bones should be 
added to the turtle bones in making the stock. 
To each turtle use about four beef shanks. 

A turtle weighing 150 pounds prepared in 
this manner will produce about four gallons of 
strong, clear green turtle soup. Divide the diced 
substance into gallon jars and fill with the fin- 
ished stock. 

Green turtle soup commands a high price, and 
when made in this manner is well worth it, as 
the finished article contains rich wines and other 
garnishes. It is a king of soups. 

The above preparation costs about $10.00 per 
gallon. 

In making clear green turtle soup, consomme 
may be added ; and in making thick soup add 
espagnole or brown sauce. 



Vegetables in the Kitchen 

A new idea in the service of vegetables is 
introduced in Hotel Sherman, Chicago, kit- 
chen, by Chef Stalle, who has designed a re- 
frigerator with sliding doors on top; the box 
two-deck, surrounded with brine pipe, and fur- 
ther cooled with brine. 

In the upper compartment, covered with the 



sliding doors, there is kept the different vege- 
tables at call from the bill of fare stored in 
stone jars; all these vegetables cooked, and kept 
cold, sweet, in shape, and sanitary, awaiting 
the a la carte order. 

Against this refrigerator, not more than four 
feet from it, is a battery of steamheated cook- 
ers, similar to oyster cookers. When an order 
for any particular vegetable is received, the 
cover of the refrigerator is moved over to give 
access to the jar containing it; a portion, or 
as many portions as may be needed, taken 
from the jar, placed in a cooker with the amount 
of fresh butter and seasoning needed, when 
the steam is turned on, and in from one to 
three minutes, the vegetable is ready for service, 
hot and with flavor unimpaired. 

The under part of the refrigerator is used 
for reserve storage of cooked vegetables for re- 
placing emptied jars in the upper compartment 
as needed. 

Commenting on the refrigerator Mr. Stalle 
said : "I believe that the vegetable refrigerator 
where the stone jars are kept ought to called 
a cold bain-marie. When I originated that idea 
it was with the intention to have the jars in 
a bain-marie of cold water; but as the re- 
frigerator system was two-story — the water 
freezing all the time — I had to keep the jars 
without water, and they are plenty cold enuf. 
The refrigerator is high enuf so that when we 
need more working table for the preparation of 
the vegetables, the top is covered and used as 
a table." 



Chew and Eschew 

Advice on eating: Cultivate the Gladstone 
chew. Fletcherize. Give your teeth chew ac- 
tion only on natural foods. Eschew all dena- 
tured and doctored foods. 





VEGETABLES REFRIGERATOR DESIGNED BY CHEF ALBERT STALLE: A, sliding cover, 3 sec 
tions; B, Bain mari to be used with or without water, to keep cooked vegetables in stone jars; C, Double 
galvanized iron tank full of brine, or salt water; (O), Coils; D, Vegetable refrigerator with movable 
shelves; E, Door. 



104 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



Explanation of Dishes Named in The Butcher, Carver and Garde Manger Articles 



Tenderloin Goulash, Berchoix: The ends 
and trimmings of tenderloin made into a 
brown stew containing a julienne of mush- 
rooms, carrots and celery. 

Emince of Tenderloin, LeGrand: This dish 
is usually made of left-over cold roast ten- 
derloin, which are sliced rather thin and 
stewed in espagnole sauce and garnished with 
sliced fresh mushrooms and noisette potatoes. 
Left-over tenderloins mignon or raw tender- 
loin may be used. 

Sliced Tenderloin and Mushrooms, Excel- 
sior: Same as for LeGrand, except add a 
garnish of marrow fritters. 

Casserole of Tenderloin, Hussarde: A 
small tenderloin served in a casserole with 
hussarde sauce . and Parisienne potatoes. 
(Hussarde sauce is a brown fine herb sauce 
with grated horseradish.) 

Tenderloin Ragout a la Minute, en Bor- 
dure : A rich brown stew of tenderloin with 
small button mushrooms; served with a 
mashed potato border. 

Sirloin a la Minute, Parmentiere: A sir- 
loin cut "a la minute," sauted in butter and 
garnished with diced potatoes tossed till 
browned in butter and seasoned with garlic 
and minute sauce (demi-glace and garlic). 

Two-minute Sirloin, Potatoes Albert: A 
two-minute sirloin cut same as for one min- 
ute, but somewhat thicker. Saute in butter 
and garnish with Albert potatoes. 

Two-minute Sirloin, Special French Fry: 
Same as above, except change of potato gar- 
nish. 

Three-minute Sirloin, Potatoes O'Brien: 
This steak is cut same as for the two-minute 
sirloin, except that it should be cut thicker 
with a corresponding increase in price. Saute 
the steak; serve with a steak sauce of butter 
or demi-glace and garnish with potatoes 
O'Brien. ' 

Three-minute Sirloin, Rathskeller: Gar- 
nish with a mushroom sauce and potatoes au 

matin. 

Special Sirloin, Hotel Metropole: Use a 
one-, two- or three-minute steak. Garnish 
with mushrooms, potato croquette and Sauce 
Rct'iM in. 

Casserole of Half Sirloin, Parisienne: Cul 

the Steak as directed and saute. Serve in a 
casserole with a Parisienne garnish consisting 
of Parisienne potatoes, small round scooped 
carrots, button mushrooms, green peas and 
espa.LMiole sauce. 

Half Sirloin Saute with Fresh Mtsiirooms: 
Same ;is above. Serve on a platter and gar- 
nish with fresh mushrooms, brown sauce and 
potato julienne. 



Half Sirloin with Marrow Sauce, Potato 
au Gratin : Serve with a brown sauce con- 
taining' poached marrow and garnished with 
au gratin potatoes. 

Combination Half Sirloin, Colbert: Gar- 
nish with a strip of bacon, potato croquette, 
fried egg plant and Colbert sauce. 

T Bone Sirloin, Potatoes Chateau: Cut the 
steak as directed ; saute in fat ; serve with but- 
ter or thin brown sauce and garnish with 
chateau potatoes. 

T Bone Sirloin, Seminole: Same, garnished 
with a potato rissolee, stuffed green pepper 
and asparagus tips. 

T Bone Sirloin, Chieftain: Garnish with 
eggplant cut in dice and sauted in butter, 
Parisienne potatoes rissole, and bordelaise 
sauce with marrow. 

Flank Steak Kostbraten: Fry the flank 
steak and then stew them in brown sauce con- 
taining onions, mushrooms and tomatoes. 
Serve with the sauce and garnish with spatzel. 

Potted Steer Flank Steak with Noodles : 
Same as above, except the garnish of noodles. 

Special Flank Steak a la Congress : Cooked 
same as above but served in casserole and 
garnished with a potato rissolee and stuffed 
onion. 

Grilled Flank Steak with Bacon Rasher: 
Cut the flank steak in several pieces, cutting 
across the grain; broil these pieces and serve 
with three strips of broiled bacon and hot 
butter. 

Stuffed Flank Steak, Boniface: First fry 
and next stew the steak in brown sauce until 
good and tender. Take it out of the sauce 
and stuff on one side with duxelle. Place in 
the oven to gratine. Serve with marrow frit- 
ter, potato chateau and sauce bordelaise with 
mushrooms. 

Esterhazy Rostbraten with Macaroni Nea- 
politan : Usually a steak cut as for the 
three-minute sirloin is used for this dish ; or 
a plain steak. Fry the steak first, then finish 
cooking it in the same manner given for the 
flank steak. Dish up on a platter and gar- 
nish with the sauce and macaroni Neapolitan. 

Prime Sirloin Rostbraten, Club Style: 
Same as for Esterhazy. Garnished with po- 
tato fondante and stuffed mushrooms. 

Steak Rostbraten, Holland PIouse: Same 
as above. Have the sauce highly seasoned 
with paprika. Garnish with grilled tomato 
and noisette potatoes. 

Hamburger Steak, Lyonnaise Potatoes: 
Prepare the steak as per directions. Fry in 
melted butter or other fat. When cooked, 
serve with a garnish of Lyonnaise potatoes 
and a little brown sauce. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



105 



Hamburger Steak with Grilled Spanish 
Onion : Same as above. Garnish the steak 
with some rather thick slices of Spanish on- 
ions. It is a good plan to have the sliced on- 
ion partly cooked by steaming' before broil- 
ing. Serve brown sauce and garnish of pars- 
ley. 

Braised Hamburger Roll, Berlinoise: Mold 
the hamburger meat into rolls, wrap them in 
oiled m&nilla paper and place in the oven to 
cook. Garnish with smothered onions, 
browned potato and gravy. 

Grilled Salisbury Steak with Bacon : Pre- 
pare the Salisbury as directed. Mould into 
steaks; roll in bread crumbs and butter; place 
to broil; then serve with a garnish of broiled 
bacon and a little brown gravy. 

Broiled Salisbury Steak with French Fried 
Onions : Same as before. Garnish with 
French fried onions and brown gravy. 

Combination Salisbury Steak,, Cafeteria: 
Broil the steak. Garnish with French fried 
onions, small French fried potatoes, bacon 
and bordelaise sauce. 

Chopped Steak Sandwich, Chili Sauce : Pre- 
pare the chopped steak. Mold into thin slice 
and fry quickly. Place on two slices of bread 
and cover with a sauce of half chili and half 
brown sauce. 

Chopped Steak Sandwich, Mashed Potatoes: 
Same as before. Garnish with mashed pota- 
toes put thru a bag, and brown sauce. ' 

Chopped Steak Sandwich with Marrow and 
Scalloped Potatoes: Same. Garnish with 
a brown sauce containing poached marrow 
and scalloped potatoes. 

Breslauer Steak and Bacon: Having pre- 
pared the breslauer steak preparation as di- 
rected, mould into steaks, then either broil or 
fry. Garnish with strips of bacon and brown 
sauce. 

Breslauer Steak with Fresh Mushroom 
Sauce : Same, garnished with a mushroom 
sauce and julienne potatoes. 

Breslauer Steak with Potatoes O'Brien: 
Same. Garnish with" brown sauce and 
O'Brien potatoes. 

German Pot Roast with Noodles: Prepare 
the beef as directed and marinate the meat in 
a sour and spiced pickle with claret wine two 
or three days. Braise the meat in the oven 
along with a mirepoix of assorted vegetables 
and spices. After removing the beef to a 
saucepan prepare the sauce from the braising 
pan; strain it over the meat and let it cook 
until very tender. Serve the beef in slices 
covered with the sauce and garnished with 
noodles and a browned potato. 

Braised Loin End of Beef with Glazed Veg- 
etables : Have the beef prepared same as 
for pot roast given above. Garnish with 



glased onions, carrots, turnips and browned 
potato, brown sauce. 

Beef a la Mode with Browned Potato and 
Spatzel: Same as above, except it should 
have more vinegar. Garnish with browned 
potato and spatzel. (Spatzel is a batter made 
of flour, eggs and milk strained thru a very 
coarse sieve into boiling water. When cooked 
strain well, then saute in butter and add 
chopped parsley.) 

Old-fashioned Plain Steak, Sauce Creole: 
Cut the plain steak as described. Fry it in 
a very hot pan and serve with a Creole sauce. 

Three-minute Plain Steak, Lyonnaise Pota- 
toes : Same as old-fashioned steak. Gar- 
nished with lyonnaise potatoes and brown 
gravy. 

Loin End Steak au Jus, Baked Potato: A 
plain steak garnished with a baked potato 
and jus. 

Prime Beef Short Ribs with Special Baked 
Potato: Prepare the short-ribs as directed. 
Place them in a roast pan containing sliced 
vegetables and mixed spices. Cook in the 
oven. When well browned, remove the short- 
ribs to a saucepan and prepare the sauce 
from the roast pan in which ribs were braised. 
Strain the sauce over the ribs when finished 
and place on the range to cook slowly until 
well done and tender. Dish up with a gar- 
nish of special baked potato and the sauce. 

Casserole of Short Ribs, Congress: Prepare 
the ribs same as above. Serve in a casserole 
with a garnish of vegetables, browned potato, 
and the brown gravy. 

Short Ribs of Beef, Potatoes au Gratin: 

Same. Serve with the sauce and a garnish 

of potatoes au gratin. 
Old-fashioned Short-Ribs with Browned 

Potatoes : Same, garnished with browned 

potato. 

Boiled Beef Short-Ribs, Sauce Creole and 
Bouillon Potatoes: It is best to leave the. 
short-ribs whole for boiling; then slice rather 
thick into portions. Serve with a sauce Creole 
and garnish with bouillon potatoes (potatoes 
cut into quarters with a julienne of celery, 
onions, bacon and chopped parsley boiled in 
the beef bouillon.) 

Casserole of Boiled Beef Short-Ribs with 
Vegetables and Bouillon : Boil the short- 
ribs; cut into portions; place in casserole 
with a garnish of fancy cut vegetables. Cover 
with their bouillon and serve a side dish of 
horseradish sauce. 

Short-Ribs of Beef, Spanish Style, Pota- 
toes O'Brien : Braise the short-ribs ; stew 
them in Spanish sauce and dish up with a gar- 
nish of potatoes O'Brien. 

Boiled Beef with Stuffed Cabbage, Mus- 
tard Sauce : The brisket is best for boiling. 
Place on the range with some carrots, onions 



106 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



and celery in the water. Let cook until very 
tender. Serve in slices with a garnish of 
leaves of cabbage that have been parboiled 
and wrapped around a ball of duxelle stuffing 
and braised, mustard sauce and a plain boiled 
potato with chopped parsley. 

English Boiled Beef and Vegetable Com- 
bination : Same as before with a garnish 
of boiled cabbage, carrots, turnips, onions, 
parsnips and potatoes; horseradish sauce on 
the side. 

Boiled Beef with Spanish Sauce and Bouil- 
lon Potatoes : Same, garnished with bouil- 
lon potatoes and Spanish sauce. 

* * * 

Whole Veal Tongue, Polonaise, Corn Frit- 
ters: Boil the veal tongues; peel and trim 
them. Garnish them with a porridge of bread 
crumbs and milk, corn fritters and parsley 
sauce. 

Braised Veal Tongue with Spaghetti Ital- 
ienne : Prepare the veal tongues as above, 
then braise them. Serve with an Italienne 
sauce and garnish with spaghetti Italienne. 

Lambs' Tongues, Pascalane in Border: Par- 
boil the tongues; skin and trim them; stew 
in a fine herb sauce with wine. Serve on a 
platter with sauce over and a border of 

mashed potatoes. 

* * * 

German Boiled Dinner: Boiled fresh pork 
shoulder and frankfurter sausage, sauerkraut, 
onions, carrots, turnips and potatoes. 

Scallops of Fresh Pork, Creole: Cut the 
shoulder into slices; bread and fry them. 
Serve with a Creole sauce. 

Braised Pork Shoulder with Candied Sweet 
Potatoes : Bone and tie the shoulder as de- 
scribed. Braise; garnish with candied sweet 
potatoes and gravy. 

Braised Shoulder of Pork with Puree of 
Lentils : Same as before ; garnish with 
puree of lentils and gravy. 

Roulade of Fresh Pork, Bohemienne Style : 
Use the boned and tied shoulder as above. 
Garnish with mashed turnips, mashed pota- 
toes and gravy. 

Kassler Rippchen with Red Cabbage: Boil 
the smoked pork loin; garnish with red cab- 
bage slaw, boiled potato and gravy. 

Little Pig Chops with Mashed Potatoes, 
Owx Gravy: Cul the chops from a thirty- 
to forty-pound pig. Season and flour; fry 
well done and brown. Three chops to a por- 
tion. Garnish with mashed potatoes and coun- 
try gravy. 

Little Pig Chops with Fried Apples and 
Sweet Potatoes: Same, garnished with fried 
apples and browned sweet potato. 

Little Pig Chops, Country Style with Corn 
Fritters: Fry three small chops; garnish 
with corn fritters, country gravy. 



Braised Fresh Ham with Red Wine Slaw: 
Bone, roll and tie a fresh ham as described. 
Place it in the oven to roast. Garnish with a 
hot slaw made of red cabbage, using red claret 
in it; brown gravy. 

Braised Fresh Ham with Prune Compote: 
Use ham same as above. Garnish with some 
stewed prunes and a potato. 

Braised Fresh Ham with Sauerkraut: 
Same; garnish with sauerkraut, potato and 
gravy. 

Braised Fresh Ham, Dixie Style: Braise 
the fresh ham as before directed. Garnish 
with black eyed peas and sweet potatoes, 
brown gravy. 

Fresh Ham Steak, Country Gravy, Mashed 
Sweet Potatoes: Cut the fresh ham steak 
as described. Season and dip it in flour; fry 
to a nice brown. Serve with mashed sweet 
potatoes and country gravy. 

Saged Leg of Pork, Browned Sweet Pota- 
toes : Bone and tie the leg before roasting, 
making a gravy from the pan it is roasted in. 
Season the gravy with sage, pour over the 
pork; garnish with browned sweet potato. 

Pork Tenderloin and Sweet Potato Impe- 
rial. See page 42. 

Royal Baked Potato and Grilled Irish Ba- 
con : Serve a large baked potato— the North- 
ern Pacific kind — have it piping hot. Open it 
up and insert a lump of butter, and serve 
with it a couple of full-sized strips of broiled 
Irish bacon. (To get a novel and best effect: 
Have the bacon cut in full strips, sawing thru 
any bones met with. Don't make the mistake 
of boneing and cutting it in strips to match 
the ordinary bacon. You lose the distinguish- 
ing features of Irish bacon when you cut it 
to resemble ordinary bacon.) 

Boiled Shamrock and Bacon with Spinach 
Greens : Boil the bacon. Serve it with whole 
leaf spinach plain boiled and garnish with a 
boiled potato with chopped parsley. 

Country Scrambled Eggs with Rasher of 
Irish Bacon : Scramble three eggs country 
style. Place them on toast and garnish with 
broiled Irish bacon same as with baked po- 
tato. 

Sugar Cured Ham Hash wtih Fried Egg: 
Hash any cold remnants of cooked ham you 
may have; mix it with hashed potatoes same 
as for corned beef hash ; fry it in an omelette 
pan ; mould nicely. Serve with a single fried 
egg on top and pieces of toast on either side. 

Majestic Ham Hash and Poached Egg: 
Same, using a poached egg in place of the 
fried egg. 

Ham Steak' with German Fried Sweet Po- 
tato: Cut a ham steak as described, fry it 
and garnish with German fried sweet po- 
tatoes. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



10' 



Ham Steak with Spinach Pattie and 
Mashed Potato: Fry the ham steak; form 
a pattie of minced spinach in a timbal mould 
to garnish one side; and garnish other side 
with mashed potato. Ham's own gravy. 

Combination Ham Steak, Othello: Fry the 
ham steak; garnish with an egg fried in deep 
olive oil, fried eggplant and potato cake. 
Ham gravy. 

Grilled Ham Steak with Sweet Potato 
Chips : Broil the ham steak ; garnish with 
sweet potato chips. 

Boiled Virginia Ham with Leaf Spinach: 
Soak the ham over night. Boil it slowly and 
well done. Garnish with plain spinach, a 
boiled potato and demi-glace. 

Braised Virginia Ham and Candied Sweet 
Potato: Soak the ham over night and boil 
it, then finish by glazing in the oven. Gar- 
nish it with candied sweet potatoes and sauce 
madere. 

Virginia Ham Glace, Washington Style: 
Same as above, garnished with green corn au 
gratin, sweet potato glace and sauce madere. 

Virginia Ham and Eggs, Country Style: 
Fry the Virginia ham and the eggs together, 
then place in the oven to glaze a moment. 

Combination Cold Sliced Virginia Ham and 
Chicken : Soak the ham and boil it very 
well done. Bone it, wrap it in a cloth, then 
press it several hours. Slice it yery thin, 
serving it with alternating slices of chicken 
breast. Garnish with shredded lettuce and 
potato salad. 

Omelette with Minced Virginia Ham : Dice 
what trimmings of Virginia ham you have 
and use in the omelette. 

Flaked Virginia Ham and Scrambled Eggs: 
Slice the ham into thin flakes and mix with 
the scrambled eggs. Serve on toast. 

Pig's Feet, Ste. Menehottld : Place the feet to 
boil, adding some vegetables and aromatics. 
Let simmer slowly till well done. Let them 
cool in their own liquor. Remove, split in 
two, bread them, broil them. Serve with hot 
butter and mashed potatoes. 

Stuffed Fresh Pig's Feet, Gastronome : Boil 
as above; bone them, stuff with sausage fill- 
ing, wrap in oiled paper, braise. Serve with 
potatoes gastronome. 

Old-fashioned Soused Pig's Feet: Boil them 
as above and let the liquor reduce to just 
enough to cover them. Serve cold with the 
jellied liquor. It is best to add white wine in 
boiling these. 

Cold Boneless Pig's Feet, Salad Waldorf: 
Boil them thoroly; bone; place in a mold to 
press; remove from mold, slice. Garnish with 
Waldorf salad. 

Fried Fresh Pig's Feet, Sauce Magenta: 
Boil and bone the pig's feet; bread them with 



eggs and bread crumbs; fry, and serve with 

a red bearnaise sauce. 

* * * 

Merchant's Combination Loin Mutton 
Chops: Cut two chops from the loin; sea- 
son, dip in flour and fry. Garnish with ba- 
con, kidney, fried tomato and potato cro- 
quette; brown gravy. 

Loin Mutton Chop Saute, with Kidney: 
Same as above; garnish with kidney and ju- 
lienne potatoes. 

Berkshire Mutton Chop with Special Baked 
Potato: Cut a Berkshire chop as directed. 
Broil, and garnish with special baked potato 
and kidney. 

Braised Saddle of Mutton, Britannia: Pre- 
pare a saddle for braising as described, gar- 
nish with carrots, turnips, string beans, po- 
tato Anglaise and caper sauce. 

Casserole of English Mutton Chops with 
Peas and Turnips : Cut the chop as directed. 
Fry it. Serve in a casserole with a garniture 
of small scooped turnips, green peas and 
brown gravy. 

Old-fashioned Irish Stew with Dumplings: 
Stew the mutton chuck cut into small squares 
with turnips, carrots, onions and potatoes; 
thicken with mashed potatoes and garnish 
with steamed parsley dumplings. 

Savory Mutton Pie, English Style: Pre- 
pare same as for Irish stew, with the addi- 
tion of aromatics. Place in individual dishes; 
cover with paste and bake. 

Ragout of Mutton Brisket with Fancy Veg- 
etables : Cut the briskets in small pieces ; 
stew ; garnish with fancy cut vegetables ; 
thicken with flour and water thickening. 

Creole Stew of Young Mutton with Rice in 
Form : Stew the mutton in Creole sauce, first 
blanching well. Garnish with moulded rice 
and potato balls. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton with Mashed Turnips, 
Caper Sauce : Prepare the leg of mutton as 
described; boil it, and garnish with mashed 
turnips, boiled potato and caper sauce. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton, Curry Sauce and 
Carolina Rice: Boil the leg, garnish with a 
boiled potato, a mould of boiled rice, and 
curry sauce. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton, Chopped Sauce and 
Creamed Kohlrabi : Same, garnished with 
diced kohlrabi in cream and a sauce made of 
chopped capers, parsley and pickles. 

Fillet of Hot House Lamb, Tetrazzini: Pre- 
pare the loin of lamb for a fillet as directed ; 
braise. Serve with a garnish of mushrooms, 
small onions, eggplant rissolee, fried tomato 
and noisette potatoes; gravy. 

Noisette of Baby Lamb, Archduke : Prepare 
the noisette; fry in butter; place on toast; 
garnish with potato Duchess, macedoine in 
case, sauce paloise (yellow mint sauce). 



108 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



Tournadoes of Milk Fed Lamb, Mascotte : 
Prepare a small English lamb chop; fry it; 
garnish with pate de fois gras, truffles, arti- 
chokes, potato Parisienne and sauce madere. 

Trio of Baby Lamb Chops ex Brochette : Cut 
three French baby lamp chops ; broil them 
with a strip of bacon to each chop. Dish up 
with toast, parsley, julienne potatoes and hot 
butter. 

Casserole of English Lamb Chop, Renais- 
sance : Cut an English lamb chop ; fry it ; 
place in casserole and garnish with artichokes, 
macedoine, cauliflower, small potatoes and 
sauce supreme. 

The Clubman's Combination Easter Lamb 
Chops : Broil three chops ; garnish with bacon, 
noisette potatoes, broiled mushrooms, kidney 
and hot butter. Frills. 

*- * * 

Larded Kernel of Veal, Montebello: Pre- 
pare the kernel as directed. Braise ; garnish 
with potato Duchess, sweetbreads, jardiniere, 
sauce madere. 

Braised Larded Fricandeau of Veal, Talley- 
rand: Prepare the fricandeau as directed; 
braise it; garnish with stuffed tomato, noodles 
au gratin, potato Parisienne, demi-glace sauce. 

Round of Veal, Dubarry Style: Lard the 
round of veal and braise it ; garnish with 
cauliflower au gratin, noisette potatoes and 
Espagnole sauce. 

Cushion of Veal, Tyrolienne: Lard the 
cushion of veal; braise; garnish with spa- 
ghetti Milanaise, minced tomato and onion 
sauce. 

Braised Fillet of Veal, Duchess Style : Pre- 
pare the loin for fillet. Braise; garnish with 
Duchess potatoes, asparagus tips, sauce Col- 
bert. 

Combination Loin Veal Chops, Delmonico: 
Cut the loin chops; fry them; stuff with 
chicken farce. Place in oven to gratine. Gar- 
nish with quenelles, potato Verdi, truffle 
sauce. 

Larded Saddle of Veal, Fanchonette: Pre- 
pare the saddle per directions; place in the 
oven to cook or braisoir; garnish with stuffed 
mushrooms, stuffed tomato, potato Chateau, 
line herb sauce. 

Braised Kidney and Veal Roll, Chieftain: 
Bone a loin of veal; fill with veal kidney, roll 
and lie Braise; garnish with Parisienne po- 
tato, Pried egg plant, marrow fritter, sauce 
bordelaise. 

Tournadoes of Veal Saddle, Cabaret : Cut 
some tournadoes Irom the loin of veal; 
season, flour and try them. Garnish with 
Tried egg plant, fried tomato, potato Dan- 
phine, mushroom sauce. 

Sliced Cold Loin ok Veal, Belvtdere: Slice a 
cold roasl loin of veal; garnish with shredded 



lettuce and salad Belvidere (romain, chicory, 
cress, cucumbers, red peppers, Lorenzo dress- 
ing). 

Braised Veal Rack, Trianon: Braise a rack 
of veal; garnish with puree of peas, minced 
spinach and mashed potatoes, sauce Colbert. 

Veal Chops in Crumbs, Spaghetti Creole : 
Bread the chops; fry them; garnish with 
spaghetti Creole, tomato sauce. 

Casserole of Veal Chops, Spanish Style, 
Corn Fritters: Season and flour the veal 
chops; fry them; place in casserole, cover 
with Spanish sauce and garnish with corn 
fritters. 

Combination Veal Chops, Excelsior : Fry the 
chops, garnish with fried tomato, egg plant, 
potato noisette, sauce Duxelles. 

Grilled Veal Chops, Club Style: Broil the 
chops; garnish with grilled sweet potato; 
broiled veal kidney, bacon and parsley butter. 

Braised Shoulder of Veal, Neopolitan : Bone 
and tie the shoulder as directed; place in the 
oven to cook; garnish with a macaroni Nea- 
politan, potatoes Parisienne, sauce Colbert. 

Shoulder of Milk Fed Veal, Empire : Braise 
the shoulder; garnish with stuffed artichokes, 
flageolettes, potato Suzette, mushroom sauce. 

Foreleg of Stall-Fed Veal, Boniface : Bone, 
tie and braise the shoulder; garnish with 
stuffed tomato, potato Chateau, marrow frit- 
ter, sauce bordelaise. 

Pot Boast of Veal, Kaiser Fashion : Make a 
pot roast from the shoulder of veal; garnish 
with stuffed onions, spatzel and potatoes per- 
sillade, brown gravy. 

Rostbraten of Veal with Noodles : Proceed 
as for beef rostbraten with the shoulder or 
leg of veal and garnish with noodles and 
noisette potatoes. 

Shoulder of Veal with StUffed Tomato and 
Fried Egg Plant: Braise the boned veal 
shoulder and garnish with stuffed tomato and 
fried egg plant. 

Stuffed Breast of Veal with Macaroni 
Milanaise: Bone the breast as directed; stuff 
it and place to braise. Garnish with maca- 
roni Milanaise, a browned potato and Col- 
bert sauce. 

Breast of Veal with Sausage Dressing and 
Sweet Potato: Prepare the breast with 
sausage stuffing. Braise it. Garnish with 
sweet potatoes, glace and brown gravy. 

Braised Stuffkd Breast of Veal, College 
Inn Style: Same, garnish with spinach tim- 
bale, tried tomato, potato croquette, sauce 
madere. 

Broiled Boneless Veal Breast with West- 
phalia Ham: Broil the breast. Bone and 
press it. Cut into portions, bread and broil 
it. Serve with broiled slices of Westphalia 
ham. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



109 



Breast of Milk-Fed Veal, Rathskeller: 
Stuff and braise the breast; garnish with po- 
tatoes Parisienne, case of green peas and car- 
rots, fried tomatoes and sauce Espagnole. 

Braised Roulade of Veal Breast, Floren- 
tine : Braise the stuffed veal breast ; garnish 
with minced spinach, potato rissolee, sauce 
Colbert. 

Casserole of Calf's Head, Parisienne: Take 
a portion of the prepared calf's head, place 
in the casserole and garnish with button 
mushrooms, turnip and carrot balls, green 
peas, Parisienne potatoes and brown sauce. 

Veal Loaf. See page 66. 

Hot Veal Loaf, St. Regis : Slice the veal loaf ; 
garnish with croustade of macedoine, stuffed 
artichoke, potato Parisienne, truffle sauce. 

Veal Loaf and Spinach, Nonpareil : Slice the 
veal loaf; garnish with a timbal of spinach, 
caper sauce. 

Log Cabin Combination. See page 67. 

Cocotte of Honeycomb Tripe, Richelieu : Cut 
some fresh tripe in oblong pieces; stew in 
sauce Colbert ; garnish with julienne of celery, 
mushrooms and potatoes. Bake well in a 
cocotte dish. 

Lamb's Liver a la Raymond: Cut the liver in 
slices; season, flour and fry them. Garnish 
with slice of fried ham, sausage cake, mashed 
potatoes and sauce madere. 

Combination Lamb's Liver: Same as above; 
garnished with bacon, fried oyster plant, po- 
tato border and sauce paprika. 

Stuffed Chicken Legs, Nipponese: Stuff 
some cold boiled chicken legs with chicken 
farce. Cook in oven. Garnish with mould of 
rice and sauce bechamel. Frills. 

Dark Meat of Chicken, Creole, with Corn 
Fritters : Cut up the leg of chicken and stew 
in Creole sauce. Garnish with corn fritters. 

Fried Chicken Legs, Maryland: Bread the 
cold boiled chicken legs and fry. Garnish 
with corn fritter, potato croquette, salt pork 
and cream sauce. 

Second Joints of Capon, Chipolata : Stew the 
cold leg of capon in brown sauce; garnish 
with mushrooms, tomatoes, small sausages and 
Parisienne potatoes. 

Casserole of Chicken Second Joints, Mexi- 
cain : Stew the dark meat in brown sauce with 
peppers, tomatoes and noisette potatoes. 



FAMOUS PLACES TO EAT 
It quite frequently occurs, here and there, 
that some establishment gains fame and patron- 
age for some special dish. One of the most 
striking of such places I ever came across is 
the establishment of Madam Miele of New 
Orleans; and. strange as it may seem, its fame 
is largely based on the humble boiled beef. Soup 



meat is what its votaries call it. I met a friend 
one evening in New Orleans, about dinner time, 
and he said, "Let's go down to Madam Miele 's 
and get some 'soup meat.' " "All right," I 
replied, and we headed for the French market. 
He entered an unpretentious and obscure door, 
without even a sign, and we found ourselves 
inside a small bar with cafe annex. My friend 
had some trouble getting accommodated, but 
finally secured a sitting for us. It seems that 
you must have credentials for the entree in this 
place, and not all that would can enter. No 
women are allowed its hospitality. We were 
given tickets for dinner, which cost $1.00 each. 
(I hear it has been advanced to $1.25.) These 
tickets had a number running into the thou- 
sands, showing how many had preceded us since 
the tickets were started. The dinner hour, six 
p. m., having arrived, we entered the dining 
room. It contained two tables of twenty-five 
chairs each, and I immediately felt at home when 
I viewed the "en famille" service. The main 
dish is the "soup meat," but the repast is on the 
order of a regular table d'hote— soup, hors 
d 'oeuvres, fish, soup meat or fowl, salad, dessert, 
and cafe noir. Wine is served gratis. That is as 
far as you can apply the word "regular" (table 
d'hote), for every course itself is distinctive and 
out of the ordinary. The soup you never saw 
before. You never ate such fish. Prepared so, 
the boiled beef is a revelation; the dessert a 
rebus ; even the bread is in a class by itself ; and 
the cafe noir you don 't get at all, not until you 
have left the table and reentered the bar, where 
you are served your coffee ' ' au cognac ' ' in keep- 
ing with the other original features of the place. 
Another odd feature is the waiter 's tip. The last 
ceremony of the diners is to pass the plate in 
church fashion for a collection to be given the 
waiters, of which there were four. The social 
character of the dinner is pronounced and at- 
tractive. 

What probably impressed me most was a col- 
ored carver they had there. I have seldom seen 
his equal. The way he carved turkey was an 
inspiration. 

I sought the formula of the boiled beef, and 
w T as told that a choice grade of boiling beef was 
used, and boiled or simmered all day. It was 
flavored and garnished with a variety of vege- 
tables, some of them only known to and pro- 
nounceable by the French. The soup was made 
of the beef bouillon. I certainly enjoyed the 
dinner, and promised myself to open a restaurant 
some day and do likewise. 

It is the privilege and joy of the employe 
interested in the success of the hotel in which he 
is working to say ' ' our ' ' hotel. 



110 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



REFRIGERATION 

The question of refrigeration is about as 
important as any in catering. Surely none other 
concerns the cook more. The quality and effi- 
ciency of his work is greatly dependent on it. 
From an economical consideration it ranks first 
of all. The modern hotel is being well equipped 
in this respect generally. I have suffered deeply 
thru the dark ages of the old-fashioned ice 
box. No ordinary mathematician could calcu- 
late the loss sustained thereby by the hotel- 
keeper, even had he the data. I can generally 
tell how contented and successful, or how miser- 
able and incapable I am going to prove in a 
place, when I examine the refrigeration facili- 
ties; and it is the first test I make of a place. 
It would tax the ingenuity of an Edison to get 
by in some places, and the best he can do is very 
bad for himself and his employer as well. Real- 
izing, as I do, the extreme importance of this 
matter, I have often been dumbfounded with 
conditions I have at times met— nothing short of 
criminal and ruinous. You are met with a lot 
of apologies and promises; but the temperature 
remains tropical. 

In modern catering, the garde manger depart- 
ment plays a most important part, and that can- 
not be successfully nor profitably sustained with 
inefficient refrigeration. Dollars invested here 
will increase themselves a thousandfold. 

No hotel proprietor can afford to be without 
first-class refrigeration, and no cook wants to 
work where it is lacking. 

SPROUTS 
Sprouts are one of the most delicate and deli- 
cious classes of vegetable foods. They are little 
known or understood in this country. They are 
distinctly a Chinese dish and product. It is 
surprising in how many ways the Chinese have 
as beat in foods. I made a study of sprouts in 
Chinatown, San Francisco (which is much like 
being in Pekin, China). The Chinese cultivate 
a great variety of these sprouts. In all their 
food stores you will see on display numerous 
tubs of sprouting seeds and roots. I have eaten 
dasheen sprouts (thai new vegetable!) in China- 
town twenty years ago. They grow sprouts from 
all kinds of seeds. The watermelon seed sprout 
seems to be the most common, and the bamboo 
sprout the favorite. As a salad we have little 
to equal them. 

KITC1IFA' GREASE 
The Crying fats play a big part in the econo- 
my of the kitchen. Under ordinary circum- 
stances and strict attention the chef will not 
need to order any special cooking grease. Many 
places buy lard or frying compounds for the 
cooks; but my experience has been that I can 



generally get enough from the meat trimmings 
by a proper regard for the economies. 

That suet and tallow may be well and thoroly 
rendered: Cut it up fine, and when placed on 
the fire to render, pour over it the skimmings 
from the sauce pans and stock boilers, all of 
which should be saved. If care is taken not to 
burn it, the roasting pans will produce a lot 
of fat also. Don 't neglect any source of supply, 
and impress the cooks with the need of economy. 
Bacon, hams, and poultry are the source of a 
good supply that is especially nice for potato 
and egg frying, or making a roux to replace 
butter. 

Don't render fat in the oven. That has caused 
the burning of many hotels. It should only be 
rendered on top of the range in a special steel 
grease kettle. 

HOW THE KITCHEN GARBAGE CANS 
ARE FILLED 
The average refuse of foods: 

Lobsters 60 per cent 

Shell oysters 80 per cent 

Fish 40 per cent 

Poultry 25 per cent 

New peas 45 per cent 

Green corn • • 60 per cent 

Lemons 30 per cent 

Oranges 27 per cent 

Bananas • • 35 per cent 

Apples 25 per cent 

Nuts 50 per cent 

Olives • • 25 per cent 

Potatoes 20 per cent 

Watermelons 60 per cent 

Pork 15 per cent 

Hams • • 12 per cent 

Mutton 20 per cent 

Lamb 17 per cent 

Veal •• 25 per cent 

Beef 20 per cent 

Cantaloups 50 per cent 

Grapes 25 per cent 

Eggs 11 per cent 

Grapefruit . • • 45 per cent 

PTOMAINE POISONING 
Every so often you read or hear of someone 
getting ptomaine poisoning at this or that place, 
and it behooves the chef to be ever on his guard 
against it. Its most frequent cause is un tinned 
copper, or the use of "gunboats" (emptied 
cans). Preserved provisions are very apt to con- 
tain it, especially canned fish, the poison of 
which generally causes death. Pate de foie gras 
is deadly, too, when affected. If in doubt, "au 
baquet" (to the swill barrel) with it. A lot of 
canned goods are opened and served by ignorant 
girl help. A careless cook is a constant menace. 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



111 



An old ice cream freezer should never be used. 
Clean and proper utensils, and constant vigi- 
lance, is the least you should do. 

There is no antidote for ptomaine poisoning'. 
Dr. Evans, of the Chicago Tribune, published 
this treatment : In case of poisoning*, induce 
vomiting. At times tickling the back of the 
throat will accomplish this. Do it with the finger. 
A glass of salt water ordinarily acts as a quick 
emetic. One teaspoonful of syrup of ipecac is 
good. A hypodermic of apomorphia, one-tenth 
of a grain, is better. This should be followed by 
a dose of castor oil. If there is shock, give aro- 
matic spirits of ammonia. 

MACHINE FOR CHOPPING MEATS AND 
VEGETABLES 

Cooking being so much an art, there have been 
comparatively few machines invented for the 
kitchen. Occasionally, however, some invention 
appears that is of great assistance to the chef. 
Such a machine is the Buffalo meat and vege- 
table chopper. Of all cooking machines, this 




certainly is the most marvelous. The noisy old 
chopper that used to "wake the dead," so to 
speak, has been forced into the junk heap by 
this invention, and the back-breaking, ever- 
clogging grinder bids fair to follow its fate. 
The mortar, a noise-maker and back-breaker 
combined, has been almost put out of business 
by it, and it has silenced the rattling rat-ta-tat- 
tat of the musical parsley chopper. This ma- 
chine is the best and quickest sausage maker 
that ever was. It should soon pay for itself in 
sausage making alone. It works with lightning 
speed ; and the way it will chop up the toughest 



consomme meat is a marvel and delight. The 
dishes that required so much work to produce 
in the old way, as hamburger, quenelles, veal 
loaf, boned fowl filling, and sausage, are made 
easy and quick with this machine. Equipped 
with motor they sell for from $160 to $200. The 
hand-power machine sells for about $70. 

"Figures" in the Restaurant Business 

(From The Hotel Monthly.) 

A steward writes from a European plan hotel 
in Florida : 

What percentage, as a rule, should the issues 
be of the receipts of a cafe 1 ? I mean, the 
issues of supplies to the culinary department. 

This is a question that cannot be answered 
with any degree of definiteness. The percentage 
is. determined largely by management and by 
volume of business. A manager who is care- 
ful, buys closely and operates economically, will 
make a very different percentage showing from 
the manager who is slipshod and overlooks a 
lot of waste. 

We have heard it said time and again that 
the percentage between cost of raw material 
and receipts should be one-half; that is, a dol- 
lar 's worth of raw materials should bring two 
dollars in receipts. 

But the restaurant business is more or less 
of a gamble. The patronage varies from day 
to day. The overhead expense goes on about 
the same. When business is good, the sales 
heavy, the cooks and waiters busy, the bill of 
fare priced to yield a reasonable profit, the 
returns should show a big percentage; but when 
business is slack, the rent, light, heat, fuel, 
wages and all overhead expense about as high 
as when business is good, it plays the mischief 
with the percentage. 

Our correspondent should determine about 
what this overhead is : what is the lowest figure 
it can be maintained at consistent with good 
service; then he can buy to suit his needs, keep 
close track of receipts and issues (it is easy 
to do this), keep account of number and amount 
in dollars and cents of the checks, find out the 
average for the checks, determine the average 
for the issues, compare the two, note the per- 
centage. Then consider the overhead : find out 
how much it cost to serve each order — and don't 
try to fool yourself on these latter figures; 
they are the most important of all— and you 
will come pretty near knowing* whether you are 
making or losing money. 

The percentage figures that our subscriber 
wishes to know are of little value if the over- 
head—the expenses of operation— beyond the 
cost of raw materials, is not given careful 
consideration. 



112 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



Mr. Knisell Takes Issue with Mr. Rivers 

S. L. Knisell, manager Galen Hall, Atlantic 
City, in a letter to The Hotel Monthly, takes 
exception to an article on Shad contributed by 
Mr. Rivers in his Hotel Butcher, Garde Manger 
and Carver articles appearing serially in The 
Hotel Monthly. 

The following extracts pertaining to shad, 
also to sword fish, make interesting reading: 

". . . This prompts me to take issue with the 
author on one statement which I think in error. 
I haven't the copy at hand, but the author, in 
his admirable description of many varieties of 
fish, and his apparently correct approximation 
of the waste attending the use of the several 
kinds, makes a statement that libels one of the 
most popular fish that swims — a fish that has 
served to make prosperous many a hotel man. 
I refer to SHAD. 

"As I remember it, he says something of the 
shad having a peculiar 'acid' taste, and generally 
would give the idea that shad is not high grade 
food. 

"He is wrong. I shall not be gentle about 
it at all; the statement is not fact, and the 
correct knowledge he does not possess. I 
wonder if he has had any American experience ? 
For there is a different variety here from that 
known in Europe. The British and German 
shad are known as allis, (Alosa Vulgaris) and 
the twaite, (Alosa Fiuta), while the American 
shad is Alosa Sapidissima, and is described in 
the Century Dictionary as 'one of the most im- 
portant food fishes along the Atlantic Coast of 
the United States.' The Encyclopaedia Britan- 
nica has little to say on the subject (Big brag 
book that) and almost nothing about the Amer- 
ican variety. I have noticed that French cooks, 
and an excellent Scotch cook I employed, didn't 
know Shad, and it was impossible to teach them 
to cook shad properly. They none of them had 
used shad in Europe, and their obstinacy in 
cooking their 'wrong-way' was always astonish- 



ing. 



"Shad are cooked on a white-oak plank— and 
other ways — but on the Chesapeake and Dela- 
ware Bays, THE way is planked. No fish, not 
even trout or salmon, is preferred by fish lovers 
to shad. If one wishes to condemn shad be- 
cause he hasn't learned to use the best parts 
only, and not struggle with the bones, he will, 
of course, have his own way; but shad brought 
the highest prices of any fisl on the market this 
year, and never is a bargain in price at any 
time. 

"Shad is a most delicate fish, and loses its 
excellence if kept I'm- more than a very little 
time. The Wes\ aeedn'l ezpecl shad in perfec- 
tion—transportation, time, and ignorant prep- 
aration preclude sat Lsfacl ion. 

"I wonder if your ant hoi 1 included Sword- 
fish in his list of high-grade food fishes. We 
get them Prom Boston, .June to mid-September, 
and sword fish is good-flavored and much 



esteemed; selling at a higher price than most 
other varieties on Boston's mammoth fish pier — 
usually priced at 15 to 19c wholesale. It has 
the least waste of any fish that swims; one 
round bone in the center; and as round and 
solid as a perfectly formed leg." 

* * * 

Mr. Rivers' Reply 

Mr. Knisell's letter was handed to Mr. Rivers, 
and he has made the following reply : 

"Mr. Knisell lives near to where the shad 
grows, and can enjoy it to perfection. He is 
right regarding the most excellent qualities of 
the shad as a food fish when eaten fresh from 
its native waters. He is also correct in saying 
that the fish deteriorates the further it is taken 
from its home waters before served at table. 

"For many years I have been familiar with 
the shad only as it can be obtained in the 
middle and far West, and my reference to the 
fish, its 'rancidness' and the like, is from the 
universal experience of those who cook and 
those who eat shad far away from its native 
waters. We do not get good shad in the West. 
It is the same with regard to whitefish. The 
whitefish served in Atlantic City do not com- 
"nare with the whitefish just taken from Lake 
Superior. Time and freezing both act as 
deteriorators. 

"I know from many years' experience in the 
West that when shad is listed on the menus it 
is not so numerously called for by epicures as 
other fish that can be served fresher and that 
are in. comparison (considering the locality 
where served) better than shad. 

"Mr. Knisell is correct in his reference to 
sword-fish. I have both cooked and eaten sword- 
fish at New England resorts, and they are deli- 
cious ; the meat white, firm, and as delicious tast- 
ing as that of any fish I am acquainted with. I 
have paid even a higher price than Mr. Knisell 
says the fish sells for in Boston. 

"Commenting on sword-fish : I wonder if 
there is any truth in the statement now going 
the rounds that the plague of sharks on the 
Atlantic sea coast is attributed to the destruc- 
tion of the sharks' natural enemy, the sword- 
fish, because of a demand for this fish as food." 

Speaking of Economies 

Speaking of economies in the small hotel, 
this story was interjected by Rome Miller, who 
told of figuring the cost of boiling a ham. Mr. 
Miller, years ago, kept a small hotel in the 
west, and was giving his woman cook advice 
on utilizing by-products. He suggested that 
she might save the fat when boiling the ham. 
The woman replied, "I always save the water 
sir, and skim the grease." Whereupon he was 
pleased that his employe was so considerate. 
Then she said, "And when I have skimmed 
the water, Mr. Miller, I save the water to boil 
the cabbage in and give the ham flavor to the 
cabbage ! " 



Gleanings from 
THE HOTEL MONTHLY 

A collection of articles of peculiar interest 
to all caterers interested in the planning, 
equipping, and operating of the culinary 
department to best advantage. 




These articles are printed in this book 
with the permission of the editor and pub- 
lisher of THE HOTEL MONTHLY, 
who has consented to their reproduction, 
believing they will serve a useful purpose, 
as they have already done in their first pub- 
lication in this widely circulated journal. 

Frank Rivers. 



114 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



The Kitchen and Garde-Manger Department, Hotel Statler- Detroit 



From Description of Hotel Statler -Detroit, 

August 1915 

The apparatus in the main kitchen consists in 

the main of: One 34' French range; one 9' French 

broiler; seventy-seven feet of plate warmers; 

forty-five feet of steel cooks' table; two monel 



machine; one Buffalo silent meat chopper; one 
Couch-Dean dishwasher; one Tahara silver burn- 
isher; one Hitter knife polisher; electric sala- 
manders; gas toasters; griddles; waffle, and com- 
plement of work tables, sinks and other apparatus 
necessary to make a modern up-to-date kitchen. 




FRONT VIEW OF GARDE MANGER STAND in Hotel Statler, Detroit, built by Jewett Refriger- 
ator Co. of Buffalo (as described in THE HOTEL MONTHLY of March 1915, together with floor plan and 
elevation). The front view shows the row of doors which open to two tiers of removable shelves in 
the lower section of refrigerator, arranged especially for plates, cut lemons, watercress, and parsley. 
Note the display cases with cooling pipes — the inviting appearance of the foods. The sign in the center 
reads, "Waiters, attention please! Always close these doors!" Note the clean tiled walls behind the 
workmen, and the metal shelving; also the ventilation ducts. 



metal bain maries; one monel metal pantry coun- 
ter; one monel metal cold plate receptacle; five 
» i iii battery of coffee urns; two 80-gallon copper 
stock kettle-; one 60-gallon ham and chicken 
boiler; one 50-gallon consomme kettle; one four- 
compartment vegetable steamer; one vegetable 
boiler equipped with lifting device: this for green 
vegetables — a new feature; one monel metal carv- 
ing table; one consomme cooling tank; one puree 



The kitchen, located on the ground floor, is 
finished ami equipped for exhibition purposes as 
one of the most sanitary food factories in 
America. The walls are white glazed brick to 
a height of seven feet, ami white painted above 
to the ceiling. The floor is of red Welsh tile. 
The mechanical ventilation is thoro; the air pure 
ami temperatured to comfort of workers. The 
ranges and practically all equipment is of the 



GLEAXIXGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



115 



John Van manufacture. The various articles of 
equipment, as cooks' tables and the like, are all 
covered with monel metal. The pot sinks are 
■welded by acetylene oxygen process. They are 
built for continuous flow of water in the rinse 
tanks. Xo piping shows around the sinks. The 
copper stock kettles are eight-tenths block tin, 
lined by hand process, and stand 200 pounds 
hydrostatic j)ressure. 



have plate warmers under them. The gas waf- 
fle cooker also has plate warmer under it. 

There is a special kettle for boiling green vege- 
tables, so as not to destroy shape. It is com- 
plimented as better than a steamer for this pur- 
pose. 

The plate-warmer shelves under the cooks' 
tables are protected with sliding curtains loaded 
with shot so they fall into position from gravity. 




REAR VIEW OF GARDE MANGER STAND IN HOTEL STATLER- DETROI T. See Nos. 101, 102, 
103, 104 and 105 under head of "Garde Manger Counter Refrigerator." Note the locking rods for securing 
the drawers; also the wood work benches; also the governor for temperature control attached to the 
refrigeration supply pipe; also the glass fronts protecting the display shelves. These display cases are 
accessible only from behind. The waiters can see the foods on display but it must be handed to them 
by the server behind the stand. 



The garde manger room is the pride of the 
Jewett Refrigerator Co., in particular the cold 
bain marie, made from special design for Hotel 
Statler-Detroit. The foods are displayed behind 
glass. Along the working side of it is fifteen feet 
of meat, block. The shelving: has cold coil over 
and under. A working drawing of this bain 
marie is shown elsewhere in this issue. The 
butcher shop is all white enamel, brick lined. 

The gas toasters are built high so that those 
who are toasting do not have to stoop. They 



The refrigerating machines are Kroschelle. 
There are two of them, electrically operated, each 
of forty-five tons refrigeration capacity and with 

average pull of six tons of ice additional. 

* * * 

The refrigerator equipment was installed and 
designed by The Jewett Refrigerator Co., of 
Buffalo, and considered by this firm one of the 
best of the many fine installations they are re- 
sponsible for. The entire refrigerator equipment 
is certainly a delight to the eye. 



116 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 





THE MAIN KITCHEN OF HOTEL STATLER- DETROIT: This plan carries that section of the 
ground floor plan back of the battery of passenger elevators. To the right Is shown the entrance to the 
main dining room; to the left is shown the entrance to the grill room. The waiters' hall connects these 
entrances in a straight line, and is centered with a checker's desk from the main kitchen, and the serv- 
ice bar for the restaurants. Also, directly parallel with the waiters' hall, is the service hall for the serv- 
ice pantries. . . . The consistent location of the different departments, in particular as to their 
inter-dependence upon each other, will be brought more and more clearly to the appreciation of those in- 
terested in economic lay-out of kitchens by a careful study of the plan, and by informing themselves 
regarding the equipment, in particular its quality and Statlerized features as listed in another page. 
. . . Particular attention is called to the location of the glass washing room; the silver cleaning room 
with Its Tahara machines; the cutlery renovator machine; the dishwashing machine and its lay-out for 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



117 




Kitchen Or Hotel 5tatle;r~detroit,michigan. 

Fu RNI^HED it I N STALLED BY 

THE JOHN\^N RANGE COMPANY- Cincinnati, Ohio. 



the soiled and clean dishes and plate warmers; the garde manger counter, the newest of its kind (see 
special description); the butcher shop with its lay-out of blocks, benches, and special position for the 
Buffalo meat chopper; the ranges, broilers, carving table, cooks' table with combination service shelf and 
plate warmers; the location of the big steam kettles, also the vegetable boilers, compartment steam- 
ers, vegetable sink, pot sink, etc., screened behind brick wall back of the ranges . . . Then to the 
pastry room with its equipment of ovens, kettles, stoves, pie and pan racks, mixers, refrigerator, ice 
cream cabinet, candy cabinet, griddle and waffle cookers. . . . Then continue on to the center of the 
main kitchen; note the battery of plate warmers; the main service pantry with its Curtis egg boilers, 
working counter, service shelf, refrigerators, urns, cup heaters, etc.; and alongside it the oyster pantry 
with its complete equipment; these pantries located directly at the exit to the waiters' hall. . . . 
The room service shelves are shown directly off the waiters' hall. 



118 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




Garde manger refrigerator, Hotel Statler, De- 
troit. (See 101 in general description of refrig- 
erators.) 

GARDE MANGEE COUNTER REFRIGER- 
ATOR: No. 101. This refrigerator has the front 
facing kitchen arranged in a series of doors open- 
ing onto two tiers of removable shelves in the 
lower section of refrigerator, arranged specially 
for plates cut lemons, watercress and parsley. 

No. 102. The balance of this refrigerator is 
accessible from the rear at left, there are four 
drawers in two series of two drawers each, ar- 



ranged specially for cold meats and salad mate- 
rial, adjacent to which is a space not insulated, 
and fitted with four drawers constructed entirely 
of galvanized steel and fitted with special locks, 
all arranged for knives and other tools, between 
which group of drawers there is a steel rectan- 
gular compartment for garbage, carried on roller- 
bearing runway. 

No. 103. At the right of this equipment there 
are three drawers in one series for garde manger 
service, at the right of which is one door opening 
onto two tiers of removable shelves arranged 
specially for milk and cream. 

No. 104. Directly above the foregoing drawers 
and compartment there is a working counter of 2" 



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Oyster counter, Hotel Statler, Detroit. (See 106 in 
general description of refrigerators.) 

maple strips on edge, securely glued and bolted 
together and carefully oiled, serving as a carving 
and work table, under front of which is a cold 
bain marie of heavy copper arranged to contain 
refrigerating coils and water and fitted with 16 
quart porcelain-lined consomme jars. 

No. 105. At either side of bain marie there is 
a compartment fitted with two sliding glass 
paneled doors and having two tiers of shelves ar- 
ranged specially for cold meats, salads, etc., ready 
to serve, which are visible to waiters thru glass 
forming the rear of this display compartment. 
The serving shelf over display compartment and 
bain marie is built of 1%" maple strips on edge, 
securely glued and bolted, and carefully oiled. 

OYSTER COUNTER: No. 106: This counter 
is constructed of clear maple and has a double 
working board and two sinks, at the right of each 
of which is a watertight collar surrounding the 
opening for oysters shells. The front of counter 
is arranged with two galvanized sheet steel draw- 






GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



119 



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The big refrigerator in Hotel Statler, Detroit, with vestibuled entrance to meats, poultry; the freezing 

chamber; fish, milk, butter, eggs, cheese, vegetables, fruits. 



ei'S for knives and other tools, and a large bin 
for cracked ice. 

No. 107. The entire top of the working board, 
together with sinks and collar, as well as entire 
space between working board and serving counter 
at ends of back, is lined with monel metal; 
working board and sinks gauge 20; balance 
gauge 24. 

No. 108. The entire space under the working 
board and inside of counter is lined with gauge 
22 galvanized sheet iron. The serving counter is 
built of lyV' clear strips securely glued and bolted 
together and carefully oiled. 

No. 109. The working board is protected thru- 
out its entire length by brass towel rail supported 
by substantial cast brass brackets. 

All refrigerators are finished along exposed 
fronts, ends and backs with heavy gauge 18% 
German silver base 6" high, having upper edge 
let into woodwork and placed on 3" cement plat- 
form, finished with cove to the floor of building. 
All boxes have electric light and a red light indi- 
cator on the outside to inform of its proper work- 
ing order. 



Kitchen Problems Solved by Machinery 

When labor saving machinery is once introduced 
into the hotel kitchen the machines almost invari- 
ably go in to stay, unless to be displaced by im- 
proved machines. Thousands of hotels are now 
equipped with machinery for dishwashing, knife 
cleaning, butter cutting, vegetable paring, bread 
crumbling, meat slicing, egg boiling, dough mix- 
ing, and many other kinds of work, which, only a 
few years ago, was slowly and laboriously done by 
hand. The machines have been so perfected that 
many of them do work superior to hand work, en- 
abling the management to cut down the pay roll, 
have less help to feed, and to employ men and 
women of higher intelligence to have charge of the 
machines. Electricity has come to the hotelkeep- 
ers' aid for motive power, a silent well-spring of 
energy, on tap; and combination of up-to-date ma- 
chinery with electric power, has gone a great way 
to solve the help problem in hotel kitchens. 



Mongrel French on a menu card is like a red 
rag to a bull to the man who wants to know what 
he is ordering. 



The average hotel food expense is said to be 
about sixty per cent for meats and forty per cent 
for vegetables, groceries, fruits, etc. It is up to 
the stewards and chefs to change this ratio by 
wearing the ' ' consideration cap ' ' in effort to pop- 
ularize the less expensive but equally palatable 
foods, and that can usually be served with greater 
profit than meat dishes. 



120 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




MAIN KITCHEN OF THE BILTMORE, NEW YORK. (Equipment by Buzzini.) 



KITCHENS OF THE BILTMORE, NEW YORK 



From the Hotel Monthly of July, 1914 located above the ground floor and having abun- 

Chef Louis Seres is proud of his kitchens, as dance of natural light and air, which people who 

well he may be, for The Biltmore kitchens are make a study of food preparation say is con- 

the only workshops of their kind in \'e\v York, ducive to the most wholesome cuisine. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



121 



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MAIN KITCHEN OF THE BILTMORE, NEW YORK. (Equipped by Buzzini.) 



The main kitchen is 60'xl50\ The kitchen on 
the twenty-second floor, for the banquet hall and 
roof garden, is nearly as large, and the sub- 
kitchens for the different dining rooms and for 
the help all have the natural light feature. 

The equipment is by Buzzini. The walls of 
the rooms are white tile, and the floors of French 
gray tile. The scullery is all glass enclosed, and, 
while a part of, yet it is entirely separated from 
the kitchen proper. 



suit our needs. We serve every delicacy from the 
world's markets that we can procure. We fea- 
ture Eussian, Spanish, and other foreign country 
dishes, and deliver the goods. We maintain the 
refrigerators at certain temperatures, as, the box 
for cold plates and china, 34 degrees; for oysters, 
clams, etc., 34 degrees; for cold meats, 36 de- 
grees; for sea foods, 34 degrees; for cheese, 40 
degrees; for milk and butter, 40 degrees; for 
fruits and salads, 40 degrees. ' ' 



In a tour of the kitchen with Chef Seres, he 
called attention to many features of special in- 
terest. The refrigeration is by Bohn syphon sys- 
tem. "The dry air goes thru the boxes, and we 
like them very much," said Mr. Seres. Over the 
kitchen there is a large battery of refrigerators 
for reserve stock. The fish are packed in ice. No 
frozen fish are carried. There is one big box for 
sea foods only. 

Commenting on the condition of the refrigera- 
tors, as we looked into them, Mr. Seres said : 
"We use only baby lamb. We age our meat to 



Chef Seres complimented highly the Smith 
(Buffalo), meat and vegetable chopper, and his 
endorsement was supplemented by Steward Ma- 
loney, who said : " It is one of the most valu- 
able devices in the way of labor saving that I 
know of." The New Century apple parer and 
corer made by Goodell Co., of Antrim, N. H., also 
demonstrated a great economy. This machine was 
paring and coring three apples at a time with 
lightning rapidity. 

In the different kitchens there are five Garis- 
Cochrane (Bromley-Merseles) dishwashing ma- 



122 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




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GRILL KITCHEN, THE BILTMORE, NEW YORK. (Equipped by Buzzinl.) 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



123 



chines and 36 Curtis automatic egg boilers. The 
principal dishwashing is done in a pantry located 
over the main kitchen. All dishes are brought up 
to this pantry to be washed, and no soiled dishes 
go into the kitchen. The silver cleaning is done 

with the Tahara machines. 

* * # 

The coffee is made by a new process discov* 
ered by Mr. Baumann in Vienna. The device con- 
sists of a bowl elevated about six feet, for steep- 
ing the freshly ground coffee in boiling water. 
This bowl is so suspended that its contents are 
tipped into another bowl located below it. This 
second bowl stands over a third receptacle and is 
separated from it by a straining felt; and, con- 
nected with the lowest container, is a vacuum 
pump, operated by hand, for drawing off the 
made coffee, which is kept hot in stone jars, and 
distributed from here in the jars to the dil'i 
ferent pantries. 

It requires about five minutes to brew fifteen 
gallons of coffee, of which about three minutes 
are consumed in the bath of boiling water, and 
two or three minutes in the strainer vessel. The 
strainer cloth is renewed frequently. The process 
has proved very successful. 

There are tilting kettles for making chocolate. 



The stock pot is nickel, of German manufacture, 
and requires no retinning. The kettles are of cop- 
per. The hot plate stands have monel metal 
covers; the range hood is also of monel metal. 
The broilers are of two kinds: electric, and a 
combination of gas, steam and air, this latter hav- 
ing particularly serviceable qualities. 

The garde manager department is said to be 
the largest of any hotel in the world, and equipped 
equal to the best. The display of cut meats, ready 
for the fire, is good to see. 

Vegetable peeling is done with a Standard 
peeler. 

There is a special kitchen for cooking cereals. 

Extraordinary preparation was made to have 
the kitchens not only the best from natural light 
and ventilation standpoint, but also mechanical 
ventilation, so that, as wholesome workshops, they 
are as near perfect as human ingenuity can pro- 
duce. 

The main kitchen is the distributing point for 
all of the other kitchens; and the accounts with 
the sub-kitchens are traced thru issues to the main 
kitchen. Each kitchen, pantry and service bar 
makes its own individual report, which must com- 
pare with the accounts of the main kitchen. This 
simplifies the work of the comptroller. 



KITCHEN OF HOTEL MUEHLEBACH, KANSAS CITY 



From Description of the Muelilebaeh, Kansas 
City, July 1915 

In our tour of the kitchen we entered to the 
left by stairway from the Petit Trianon Cafe 
serving pantry, past the checker's desk which 
controls service to the upper dining rooms. 

To the right is the garde manger department 
enclosed in marble top counter : the first section 
of it the oyster counter with slate sink under; 
the next section, garde manger counter with tray 
rack under and work counter; the next section 
garde manger counter with sink and bain marie; 
the next section carrying the garde manger work 
bench on the inside and the broiler's short order 
box and meat block on the outside. 

As we enter the kitchen proper we come first 
to the help's service kitchen, which is completely 
equipped with steam-table, urns and dishwashing 
department; and directly back of it is the 
women 's dining room on one side, and the men 's 
dining room on the other side. To the left of 
the help's kitchen, screened behind wall, are the 
freight elevators with spacious landing corridor, 
and the garbage crematory. 

The service elevator and electric dumb waiters 
are directly at the entrance to the main kitchen. 

In our tour of the kitchen we look to the right 



as we go thru, first turning to the right to the 
butchers' section, centered with the Buffalo meat 
chopping machine that has become indispensable 
in kitchens requiring much meat chopping and 
other fine work in this line. This installation is 
a great economy in the pay roll, as well as 
eliminating noise and doing- work in a few 
minutes that formerly required hours. The plan 
shows the location of the benches, block, sink, 
mortar, etc. 

Following along into the preparation room we 
pass the chicken butcher stand and the fish 
butcher, and take a look into the spacious re- 
frigerators. We pass thru the preparation de- 
partment: note the Peerless vegetable peeler; the 
sinks all metal, the work table with metal bins 
under and steel top table by the sink. Eeturn- 
ing, we pass the pan table and scullery, these 
screened by partition wall from the range. Con- 
tinuing along we pass the Van compartment 
steamer, the battery of soup kettles, and the mix- 
ing machine; then return to the kitchen proper. 

The broilers are all charcoal. The range is 
of the finest John Van manufacture, which means 
there is no better range made. The grates are 
arranged for coal and gas fuel, by which there is 
economy and complete control of fire. The range 



124 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 





Furnished & Install 

The John V\n "Range Compaq 



equipment includes a roasting oven which is 
similar to the big bake ovens. 

The cooks' table is of three-sixteenths-inch 
boiler steel, polished ; the face porcelain enam- 
eled on steel, and with trim of German silver. 
It has heater in front, and hot elevated steel 
service shelf. The arrangement of it for bain- 
marie and carving table is clearly shown in the 
plan. 

Ranged down the center of the kitchen, par- 
allel with the cooks' table, are four marble-top 
service shelves, the first capping a cold plate 
service refrigerator, the next a silver heater, and 
the two others dish heaters. 



Passing beyond the cooks' table we come to 
the service bar, which is completely equipped in 
every way and supplemented with a Reed and 
Barton cocktail wagon for mixer service in the 
dining rooms. 

Passing the service room and turning to the 
right, we pass the checker's stand to the Plan- 
tation Grill, and four easy treads lead to the 
grill, which is practically on the same floor. 
Ret ween the kitchen and the grill is a vestibule 
shielded at both ends to prevent noise of kitchen 
from reaching the dining room. In this vesti- 
bule there is a special service cabinet behind glass 
and a finger bowl sink, ice sink and cracked ice 






GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



125 




— Kansas City, Missouri. 
= d£>y 

4Y — Cincinnati, Ohio. 



receptacle for quick service to the Plantation 
Grill. 

Returning to the kitchen we come to the glass 
cleaning department, the dishwashing machine 
and silver cleaning machine, all compactly grouped 
for convenience of service, the plan telling bet- 
ter than many explanatory words the consistent 
lay-out. 

Things observed in this cleansing section in- 
clude wood slotted shelves for glass, china and 
silver, tray racks under the counters, and facil- 
ities for safe handling of the delicate wares, 
practically compelling careful work by the oper- 
ators. 



We have observed as we have gone along that 
practically all fixtures are up from the floor, so 
that the whole kitchen floor is get-at-able to keep 
clean and banish, dirt, grease and vermin. 

We now come to the pantries, located in the 
direct center of the kitchen; the coffee pantry 
with its battery of urns under control of the 
pantryman, has marble service counter and Kel- 
lum urns with cup warmer under. The coffee 
and fruit pantry is combined so as to be econo- 
mical for the watches. In dull hours, for instance, 
one person can easily take care of the dual pantry, 
while in busy hours as many as are necessary can 
be employed behind the counters. 



126 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 







THE GREAT BASEMENT FLOOR OF THE COP LEY- PLAZA, BOSTON. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



127 



The kitchen is 150' by 70' or a floor area of 
over ten thousand square feet. The walls are 
enameled; also the facing of all counters, desks 
and heaters. The illumination is from lights in 
the ceiling. 

The ventilation provides abundant supply of 
fresh air, and exhaust of all steam and kitchen 
odors, so that the room at all seasons is com- 
fortable for the workers. It is an ideal work- 
shop in this respect. 



KITCHEN OF THE COPLEY-PLAZA, BOSTON 



From description of The Copley-Plaza, June, 1913 

In a tour of the steward's department we saw 
one of the best laid out and most complete ap- 
pointed working departments that any hotel can 
boast of. One good feature of the lay out is 
that everything is on one floor; the storerooms, 
kitchen, bakeshop, pantries and refrigerators. The 
layout shows expert knowledge in the placing of 
different departments and the arrangement of the 
furniture to facilitate service. There is no cramp- 
ing of room, nor is there, seemingly, any waste of 
room. The following notations were made as we 
passed thru the department: 

Fish separated from ice only by a thin cloth; 
only one layer of fish, so they can be easier han- 
dled, and always fresh fish assured, with proper 
management. 

The Buffalo silent meat cutter, indorsed as one 
of the best devices ever put into a kitchen. All 
home-made sausage thru the agency of this ma- 
chine. 

A separate range for party work. 

In the pastry room a double-deck Dutchess oven. 
Fresh bread made for every meal. French rolls 
served only fresh made; the capacity eight to ten 
thousand a day. Pillsbury flour used. 

Two ice cream machines. 

The refrigerators Lorillard, glass lined; the 
boxes in the serving pantries with drawers and re- 
volving shelves. On the shelves the made dishes; 
this for quick service. 

Duparquet urns equipped with instantaneous 
water heater device. 

Automatic cream measurer; also automatic 
measurer for orange juice and grapefruit juice; 
the faucets silver plated inside as well as out, to 
prevent a metallic taste. (In the service of grape- 
fruit the removed seed cavity is filled with grape- 
fruit juice.) 

Six Espel tea measurers for the different kinds 
of tea — these among the specially pointed out 
economies. 

Milk from private farm. Sweet butter in cakes, 
and cut in cubes 24 to the pound. Sweet butter 
in bricks for cooking. 



Bread for toast and sandwiches kept in 'refrig- 
erator so as to be cold and fit. 

The store room refrigerator contents are the pick 
of the markets of the world. In one of the boxes 
we noted a crate of Capetown melons priced on 
the card at seventy-five cents the portion. 

The Morse-Bulger incinerator. 

For banquet service everything on platters, 
French style; and box wagons, charcoal heated, 
with capacity for 600 portions in one box. Two 
heated boxes for the hot dishes and two cold 
boxes for the salads, ice creams, sherbets, etc. 
With the aid of these wagon boxes, the service 
of hot and cold dishes is under control. 

The Blakeslee roll warmer highly compliment- 
ed; also the Dilg knife cleaner. Gorham silver. 
Kuhn check. 



In the Waldorf-Astoria Kitchen 

Their first visit (New York State Hotel Asso- 
ciation in New York City) was to the kitchen of 
the Waldorf-Astoria, probably the largest hotel 
kitchen in the world, and they saw it during the 
noon hour ; saw the hundreds of cooks and hundreds 
of waiters in action; heard the shouting of the 
waiters calling their orders to the cooks, and the 
cooks confirming with return call; heard the noise 
and clatter of dishes, of silver, the rumble of trucks, 
the buzz of machinery; and they marveled at the 
genius of the caterer who could produce in this fac- 
tory, amid so much hustle and bustle and noise, 
the dainty foods to tempt the appetites of the epi- 
cures in the dining room overhead. And they mar- 
veled still further at the smoothness of the service 
in the dining rooms, the deft movement of the 
waiters, and the quiet of the atmosphere. They 
saw the beautiful silverware handled in the pan- 
tries as it is apt to be in rush times, with seeming 
reckless hurry; and they saw the silver repairing 
room, where several silversmiths were at work re- 
pairing the damaged pieces and replating; and 
they saw the shop where the glassware that has 
been nicked is ground until the nick disappears and 
the stem foot and top rims be smooth again; and 
they saw the great machinery plant, the boilers 
with their self -feeding and stoking devices, the im- 
mense dynamos, the refrigerating plant of 100 
tons daily capacity; and they took a look into the 
wine vaults, and into the cigar humidor. O but it 
was a great sight for the country hotelkeepers! 
It impressed them with the magnitude to which 
their business is developed in a large city. 



The self-respecting hotel or restaurant-keeper 
does not object to inspection of his kitchen. The 
self-respecting cook will not work amid filthy sur- 
roundings. The people who patronize respectable 
eating-houses can be reasonably sure that the food 
they buy is prepared of wholesome material in 
cleanly fashion. 



123 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



THE MODEL KITCHEN IN DAVENPORT HOTEL, SPOKANE, WASH. 



From Description of the Davenport Hotel, Spo- 
kane, Wash., Sept. 1915. 
If there is one thing more than another that 
Mr. Davenport is proud of it is his kitchen. This 
is all new. It is arranged to suit him, and is a 
model workroom in every respect. It was de- 
signed and equipped by F. E. Ricketts, of the 
John Van Range Company, of Cincinnati, who 
is responsible for several of the best kitchens in 
America. Mr. Ricketts said he was able to put 
his best thought and the very best kind of 
equipment into this kitchen, for the reason that 
Mr. Davenport knows what ought to be used for 
an institution such as this, feeding more than 
3,000 a day. " Every suggestion of mine," said 
Mr. Ricketts, "regarding the drainage, the pipe 
connections, the ventilation, the refrigeration and 



the placing of the several departments to best 

advantage for working conditions, was met by 

Mr. Davenport with an understanding such as few 

hotel men are capable of, and his suggestions, 

adopted by me, were invariably toward the ideal 

kitchen. ' ' 

* * * 

We have been favored with a plan of this 
kitchen, and a careful study of it will convince 
any practical hotel man who takes a pride in 
his kitchen that here is one which disarms criti- 
cism. It is almost waste of words to point out 
the many good features of this kitchen, but those 
who are not so fortunate as to give it personal 
inspection will be greatly interested in the sev- 
eral photographs herewith presented, in partic* 
ular the central view of the kitchen as seen from 




COOKS' TABLE of polished steel in front of range and boilers (Davenport Hotel, Spokane). Special 
steak warmers are located over the charcoal broilers. A gas salamander is located over the center of 
range. The hood is specially designed; the exterior of aluminum-coated steel with polished trimmings, 
and insulated with quarter-inch asbestos board; the main body of hood constructed of No. 14-gage steel. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



129 



Dining Room 




KITCHEN OF THE DAVENPORT HOTEL, SPOKANE. (Equipped by the John Van Range Co.) 



130 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




CENTRAL VIEW OF KITCHEN (Davenport Hotel Spokane) from entrance to lunch room; the 
fruit pantry to right, front; glass, china and silver washing departments, in respective order, to right; 
service warmers in front of steam carving table; general cooks' table and range and broilers behind 
Carving table. To left is vegetable preparing room and butcher shop. 



the lunch room ; the cooks ' table ; the front view 
of the glass, china and silver departments; the 
silver washing and cleaning department; the 
garde manger department; the china washing 
department, and the ice cream and pastry de- 



partment. These are all described in captions 
under the illustrations. 

The floor of the kitchen is of red (Gruby) tile; 
the walls of white tile to a height of ten feet; 
the ATOodwork oak; the facings of all counters 







FRONT VIEW OF GLASS, CHINA AND SILVER DEPARTMENTS at right of kitchen (Davenport 
Hotel, Spokane). This is said to be the finest installation for such departments in this country. There 
is a special glass driinina shel* above the glass washing sinks, where glasses are placed for a short 
time before they are polished for use. 






GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



131 




SILVER CABINET in kitchen of Davenport Hotel, Spokane, with display of Reed & Barton specially 

designed patterns. 



of white tile, and every placement of such a 
nature as to avoid the accumulation of dust, dirt 
or grease. The hose can be turned on, and gra- 



vity drain speeds the cleaning. The illustrations 
picture the type of illumination from ceiling. 
The equipment includes John Van ranges and 




SILVER WASHING AND CLEANING DEPARTMENT (Davenport Hotel, Spokane): Tahara 
machine shown open at left, with silver in bath of shot and suds. Note the care in handling, in par- 
ticular placing the wiped silver on mat. The Blakeslee rotary silver washing machine is located behind 
the soiled silver table at right. Note the sanitary enclosure of this department, all white tile wall with 
sanitary coved base. 



132 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




GARDE MANGER DEPARTMENT, with counter 
and refrigerators by Jewett of Buffalo. Serv- 
ice shelves of German silver; and below serv- 
ice shelf are located special cold bain maries for 
cold condiments, these accessible only to the garde 
manger men. The illustration shows also the 
heavy work board with ice sink. (See kitchen plan 
for general arrangement.) Note the type of special 
service shelves for the convenience of waiters in 
the center of kitchen lobby. There are several 
of these. 



broilers, copper kettles and pans, Blakeslee 
(Niagara) dish washer, Smith (Buffalo) meat 
cutter, Espy Curtis egg boilers, Enterprise min- 
roll cutter, Lee bread crumber, 



cer, Duchess 



Albert Pick butter cutter, Blakeslee dish carrier 
wagons, Blakeslee ice chipper, Van urns, and 



practically every mechanical device for kitchen 
work that has proved superiority. 

* -5f * 

The refrigerators are of Jewett construction. 
All are of oak and have enameled walls, tile floor 
and sanitary corners. The doors are triple thick 
plate glass. 

The illustration of the garde manger depart- 
ment shows the principal item of refrigeration 
equipment in the kitchen. All cold meats are 
kept in enameled trays in drawers. A glance 
thru the refrigerators revealed the delicacies at 
call in the Davenport Hotel. There were Mexi- 
can lobsters, alive; soft shell crabs from Mary- 
land, alive; jumbo frogs from Louisiana; Port- 
land crawfish mountain trout; Dungeness crabs; 
sandabs from San Francisco, and the whole gamut 
of delicacies in fruits and vegetables. 

Instead of the old style ' ' liquor in the kitchen ' ' 
habit, there are three of four bubbler fountains 

for the use of kitchen employes. 

* # * 

A novelty we discovered in the Davenport 
kitchen was a traveling steam table — two of them, 
in fact. This steam table is illustrated on an- 
other page. It was designed by F. E. Ricketts, 
of the John Van Eange Company, and H. W. 
Wraight, manager of the Davenport Restaurant, 
and built by the John Van Range Co. It is ex- 
plained in the caption appearing under the illus- 
tration. A commendable feature of this steam 
table is that it is electric heated from plug in 
kitchen while being made ready for the dining- 
room and also electric heated from plug in din- 




CHINA WASHING DEPARTMENT, (Davenport 
Hotel, Spokane): Blakeslee No. 80 Niagara motor 
driven machine. Van's new style metal dish tables. 
Baskets filled and slid to feed end of the machine, 
passing thru it from right to left and landing on 
the clean dish assorting table. Tray rack under 
dish table. Trays are washed in sink in front of 
the machine (see faucets over tray). Note sanitary 
enclosure of the dish table. 




ELECTRIC WAGON, made of German silver 
and brass. Carries two meat platters, four vegeta- 
ble compartments and one gravy. Plate warmer 
below and elevated service shelf above. Is about 
six by two feet, on heavy swivel rubber tired 
casters. Equipped with electric heat units, and 
with cord and plug to be connected to electric sta- 
tions in kitchen and dining rooms. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



133 



ing room. This reduces to a minimum the steam or 
smell objection common to wagons other than elec- 
tric heated. It can be wheeled to the bar for the 
bar lunch, or to the lunch room, or to any dining 
room, and is one of the most serviceable things 
in the hotel's catering department. 

Louis Davenport logic in the matter of install- 
ing the best mechanical service and labor-saving 
devices: "It is to better the service; to lessen 
our work; to increase our profits." 



MR. MUSCHENHEIM'S FAMOUS KITCHEN 



From descriptions of Hotel Astor, New York 
{January, 1907). 

Asked regarding the practice of gentlemen 
smoking in "the restaurants, Mr. W. C. Muschen- 
heim said : ' ' There should be one dining room re- 
served for those who do not smoke, or to whom 
tobacco smoke is offensive. A few years ago it was 
customary to reserve one room for smokers; now 
the custom is to permit smoking in nearly all dining 
Tooms. The caterer is governed by what the peo- 
ple want. Different places have different condi- 
tions. ' ' 

* * * 

Pantries and waiter service 

The pantry in the rear of the Hunting Koom is 
here described, as illustrating the thoro and sys- 
tematic method of controlling the service: 

A diagram of room showing location of tables 
and designating each table by number. (There 
are forty-eight tables in the Hunting Room.) 

A rack showing the waiters ' numbers, and oppo- 
site them the tables each particular waiter is as- 
signed to, as 



WAITERS' No. 


TABLES 


64 


1 


13 


65 


2 


3 


66 


4 


14 



This assignment is changed every day, the policy 
being to change the waiters around continuously. 

A rack after the style of a room rack for the 
purpose of parceling out each day the waiters ' 
job work; thus, certain waiters are designated as 
their duty for this day to attend to the salts, 
crackers and mustards; and other waiters to look 
after the horseradish, finger bowls and matches; 
and so on for all the different sorts of work re- 
quired of them. The rack indicates so plainly 
that there can be no shirking. 

The busses also have their schedule for each day 
as to which service table each must look after. 



Also the general and service tables for the dinner 
is parceled out to them. 

There is also posted up a table or schedule show- 
ing the off days each waiter is entitled to for the 
full year. A waiter gets one day off every three 
weeks. In his absence a reserve man takes his 
place. A waiter can be off oftener than once in 
three weeks, under certain conditions, by employing 
a reserve man and paying him. A waiter has what 
is called "long watch" for the two weeks, and the 
third week is released from duty when the rush 
hours are over. 

There is hung in the pantry a framed picture in 
colors, showing in actual size the different kinds of 
wine glasses for service with the different wines; 
and also illustrating the height to which the glasses 
should be filled ; thus, the picture of the glass with 
the wine to be served with seltzer, shows it a long 
ways from full. 

Butter pats are cut in ounce cubes, an entire 
tub cut with a few turns of the wire cutter. The 
butter is forced direct from the tub against a wire 
mesh, and the pats cut off with a swing wire as 
many as a hundred at a time. Butter pats are 
kept on china chips in refrigerators. 

A dumb waiter of the endless chain pattern car- 
ries dishes from the pantry to the dishwashing de- 
partment on the floor below. (Every restaurant 
has its separate dishwashing department. There 
are five dishwashing machines for the ground and 
basement floor restaurants, and three for the ban- 
quet rooms on the eighth floor.) 

Every pantry has a receptacle for ice cubes. 

No waiter takes an order direct to the kitchen. 
It is sent by pneumatic tube, thus saving time. 
The waiter fetches from the kitchen. 

Every restaurant has its separate ice boxes. 

In brewing coffee, one pound of coffee to one 
gallon of water is the rule for lunch and dinner; 
and four pounds of coffee to five gallons of water 
for breakfast. 

Guests of the restaurants who prefer the Old 
World style of having the roast carved before 
them, are accommodated. A wheeled table with 
silver covered hot dish is at all times ready in the 

pantry for this purpose. 

* * * 

Care of silverware 

The silverware cleaning is done by schedule, cer- 
tain work for certain days, as: Monday, the small 
silver; Tuesday, the bread baskets and mustard 
pots; Wednesday, the sugar bowls; Thursday, fin- 
ger bowls and bottle stands; Friday, bread bas- 
kets and mustard stands; Saturday, bar trays and 
horse-radish stands; Sunday, sugar bowls. The 
Dilg machines are used for cleaning the silverware. 
The Hotel Astor also has its own replating plant. 

Silverware for present use in the restaurants is 
kept in sliding drawers under the sideboard, each 



134 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



kind in a separate drawer; and on the side of each 
drawer is a picture of the article, same size, with 
name, so there is no excuse for any piece getting 
into the wrong drawer. 

The silverware is insured against loss. 

* * * 

The Astor kitchen 

The kitchen of Hotel Astor is, perhaps, the best 
ventilated room of its kind in the world. A system 
of ducts, forming a network about the ceiling, are 
fed by arms reaching out over every spot where 
odor or steam originates, and it is drawn into these 
ducts by suction in such volume that the entire 
air of the room is changed every few minutes. 

The kitchen walls are of glazed tile, and the 
floor of soft-colored red tile. The equipment is 
equal to the best ever placed in a hotel kitchen. 

The great and noticeable feature of this kitchen 
is its roominess. There is no crowding of any de- 
partment, and yet one dovetails into the other so 
harmoniously that a vast amount of work is done 
with no evidence of bustle or hurry or crowding. 

There is not a mechanical device of importance 
that has not been adopted, where it could be done 
to advantage. 

The roasting of big joints is done on a spit 
before a charcoal fire. 

The cooks' tables have heavy polished steel tops. 

The dish heaters have sliding doors behind, and 
swing doors, of the automatic closing kind, in 
front. There is an open space in rear of heaters, 
and dishes are brought to this point from dish- 
washer on rubber tired trucks. 

The stock kettles and vegetable cookers are back 
of the kitchen proper, and arranged in a line of 
tilting coppers seventy-five feet long. They stand 
in a series of cast-iron trays, to prevent leakage 
on the floor. The kitchen floor, by the way, is 
kept as dry as possible all the time. Sawdust is 
used extensively in the rear of the room, but none 
in that part where the waiters come. And a 
waiter dare not go back of the sawdust line, or 
the cooks make trouble for him. 

The pot sinks are remote from the kitchen prop- 
er. The pots are carried to and from the washers 
on trucks. 

In the cold storage rooms the racks are of gal- 
vanized metal, detachable, so that the rooms can 
be easily cleaned. Kef rigerators have a lever han- 
dle inside the door, so that a man accidentally 
shut in can let himself out. 

In the butcher shop, a room lined with white 
glazed tile, there is a megaphone connected with 
speaking tube from the chef's office sixty feet 
away. The chef can thus give his orders so that 
they can be heard by every one in the room just 
as if he were in the room himself. 

The fish box, specially designed by W. C. Musch- 
enheim, has inclined shelves, so the water runs off, 



and there is practically no odor of fish in its 
vicinity. 

The cold storage rooms are kept sufficiently cold 
only; not so cold that the flavor of the foods is 
spoiled by freezing. The refrigerators are all tile- 
faced and tile-lined. 



For the Waiters' Information 

Posted conspicuously at the door leading from 
the kitchen to the dining room in the Eyan of St. 
Paul are two bulletin boards, one headed EEC- 
OMMEND, the other OUT. The boards are on the 
kitchen side of the door and the articles it is de- 
sired the waiters to ' ' recommend ' ' and the articles 
on the bill of fare that are "sold out" are writ- 
ten conspicuously on these boards, so that the wait- 
ers can be continuously informed. In the one case 
it promotes sales of foods that might otherwise 
be left over and spoiled; in the other case, it saves 
the waiter many steps back to the kitchen when 
an order is given to him for a dish that is sold out. 



The Garbage Barrel Barometer 

One of the large hotels of America changed 
chefs not so long ago, and the new chef, by care- 
ful management, reduced the waste, increased the 
percentage, and gave equal, if not better service 
than his predecessor. The business of the restau- 
rants improved, doubtless due to the good cook- 
ing and pleasing garnish of dishes, giving appe- 
tizing quality to everything that went from the 
kitchen. 

The night watchman, whose duty it is to keep 
track of the garbage barrels, said to the inside 
steward one day: "There is something wrong 
with the kitchen. We had fifteen garbage barrels 
less this month than for the corresponding month 
last year. The kitchen people must be taking 
things away. ' ' 

The inside steward said to the chef : ' ' The 
night watchman tells me there is a shortage of 
fifteen garbage barrels this month as compared 
with the same month last year. How do you ex- 
plain it?" 

The chef replied, smilingly : ' ' Well, ain 't you 
glad of that report ? ' ' 

"What do you mean?" asked the inside stew- 
ard. 

"Well, that there is fifteen barrels less waste; 
there has been a prevention of waste that should 
stand to the credit of the kitchen." 

"I never thought of that," said the inside 
steward. 



Fresh foods are better than foods from cold 
storage. The more fresh foods provided, the bet- 
ter the cuisine. It is easier on the steward to 
procure from the cold storage markets; but it is 
better for the table if the cold storage supply is 
drawn from necessity instead of from habit. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



135 



KITCHEN OF HOTEL STATLER, CLEVELAND 



From the Hotel Monthly of January, ID 13 
The Hotel Statler-Cleveland kitchen is a master- 
piece of the John Van Range Co. 

In planning the hotel Mr. Statler gave first 
consideration to its working department; for no 
matter how beautiful or costly the structure may 
be in the rooms provided for guests, the hotel 
would be a failure from the operating point of 



' ' We were given a free hand to produce the best. 
There are certain features of this kitchen superior 
to those of any other hotel kitchen." 

The equipment cost $25,000. 

Refer to the ground floor plan: The main 
kitchen, it will be noted, is located in the rear 
center of this floor directly back of the elevators, 
and arranged for service from both ends. A wide 




A view of Hotel Statler, Cleveland, kitchen (showing pan rack; the wood slatted warmers; the range 

in the background.) 



view if the mechanical end is not such as to de- 
liver service consistent with the rooms' appoint- 
ments. He considers the kitchen the most vital 
part of the hotel, and it was his desire to have 
the kitchen of Hotel Statler-Cleveland an ideal 
workshop, with convenient location, compact ar- 
rangement, and the best tools to produce the finest 
cuisine. 

The contract for the kitchen equipment was 
given to the John Van Range Co., in the belief 
that this firm, from their reputation, could deliver 
the goods according to specifications. President 
Ziegel, of the John Van Co., said to the writer: 



service hall between the kitchen and lobby facili- 
tates service to the Pompeian and Formal dining 
rooms to the south ; to the Grill room to the north ; 
also to the dining rooms in the basement, mes- 
zanine and parlor floors; and to all floors and 
the roof garden by service elevators; and there 
is a wide stairway at the south end of the kitchen 
up to the banquet room. 

The dishwashing departments, it will be noted, 
are located at each end of the kitchen, and the 
chef's office controls the room. The checkers ' 
desks are placed at pivotal points, with complete 
control of the waiter service. 



136 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



IbSieiuLe fBsoM 




KITCHEN HOTEL STATLER, CLEVELAND. (Furnished by John Van Range Co.) 



The plan affords a study of kitchen arrange- 
ment for doing a vast amount of work econom- 
ically and well in the smallest space consistent 
with such requirement. The practical caterer will 
appreciate the locating of this and that depart- 
ment, from range to pot sink, as consistent with 
intelligent and economical operation. Every inch 
of space had to be utilized, and is put to good use. 

The range is of eight-gauge steel, forty feet 
long, four feet wide, the top eight inches wider 
than the regulation hotel range, and the heaviest 
ever made. It is arranged for natural gas fuel 
now, but coal can be used. 

There are two French charcoal broilers and 
one gas broiler, and a quick game oven on top. 
There is a quencher tank for incipient fat fires. 

The canopy over the range and kettles is 
63%' long and weighs 6,500 pounds. It is of ten- 
gauge aluminum coated monel metal and cost 
$2,000. This monel metal is hard to get. The 
aluminum coating is put on under a heat of 1,500 
degrees. It hooks into the pores, and does not 
flake — is there for all time. The monel metal is a 
residue from cobalt. It is 75 per cent nickel, 23 
per cent copper, and 2 per cent iron. It is harder 
than nickel. 

The cooks' table is all % inch steel; on the 
range side, metal racks for shelves; on the front, 



a polished plate warmer, lined, ends and sides, 
with ash slats, so that no china or silver touches 
the metal. The cooks' table drawers are of steel, 
and provided with locks. 

The bain marie is all of monel metal, and with 
overflow. The service shelves are of metal and 
welded and bent so there can be no leak. 

The carving table is of monel metal; the service 
counter 4' high with porcelain top. 

The sauce pan rack is nickel plated. 

The garde manger department is as wholesome 
as can be made. 

The cold storage is with Jewett boxes. 

The pantries are laid out so that the urns are 
in the center; and the service of cereals, the egg 
boiler, and waffle cooker, the salads, ice creams, 
etc., handled to best advantage. The shelves and 
working board are of monel metal. The cold plate 
receptacle in front is wood slatted to protect the 
dishes from the metal. The urns, of which there 
is a battery of five, are built with special cover 
which lifts and automatically swings and replaces. 

The Monfort roll warmers are located in front 
of the pantry, between it and the carving table. 

There is a battery of 8 Curtis egg boilers. 

The kettles are lined with %-inch block tin. 
There are two of eighty-gallon, and one fifty- 
gallon capacity, set in steel boiler pan. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



137 




PA3SAU6- 



*.Tot v \Ai" Dining. KbOM 




KITCHEN HOTEL STATLER, CLEVELAND. (Furnished by John Van Range Co.) 



There is a big tub boiler for reducing. This 
boils for days and days, and its capacity may 
be imagined when it is stated that soup was made 
for six thousand persons for the opening day 
functions. 

The coppers are the heaviest ever manufac- 
tured. 

There are two steam cookers, with escape and 
cam lock. 

There is a cold consomme tank equipped with 
refrigerator coil. 

The pot sinks, hid in a bricked room, have over- 
flow to sewer. The tank is IV-i ; the rinse to 
correspond, and the shelves are galvanized. 

The dishwashing department is about as com- 
plete as can possibly be made for this purpose. 
Blakeslee dishwashing machines are installed. 
These have brass tanks. There is an extra large 
soaking tank for caked dishes, as cereals, egg, etc. 
It will hold four baskets at once to soak in cold 
suds before placed in the machine suds tank. 

The scrap table has cypress slats over the metal, 
so that no china touches the metal. The scrap 
hole is of rubber. A clever arrangement of the 
drain board prevents water reaching the clean dish 
table. 

All tanks are welded. 

There are three tanks for soft soap. These are 



made of seamless boiler plate and with vapor 
pipes over. 

The silver and glass are washed by hand. The 
rinse tanks are built for overflow to keep the 
water always free from scum. 

The kitchen tables are built with ball feet. 

The Diig knife cleaners and silver buffers and 
polishers were selected. 

Special banquet wagons are used to keep the 
dishes hot for course service. 

The checkers' desks are equipped with cash 
register and Lamson pneumatic tubes. 

The kitchen has red tile floor and white enamel 
walls. 



Champion Meat Slicer 

The hotelkeepers who attended the meeting of 
the Illinois Commercial Hotel Association in Rock- 
ford witnessed a demonstration of the work done 
by the American slicing machine ; saw it cut bacon, 
ham, dried beef and other meats to any desired 
thickness, the dried beef so thin as to be trans- 
parent. The work of slicing was done at such 
speed, and so superior to hand work, that the ma- 
chine demonstrated not only its usefulness, but its 
economy as both a labor and material saver, and 
impressed those who saw it with its being able to 
pay for itself in these respects in a short while. 



13S 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 





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KITCHEN OF CHATEAU LAURIER, OTTAWA. 
(Equipped by the Gurney Foundry Co.) 





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GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



130 




KITCHEN OF CHATEAU LAURIER, OTTAWA. (Equipped by the Gurney Foundry Co.) 



convenience to the refrigeration plant. Note the 
scullery, separated from the kitchen -with brick 
partition, and the kettles and steamers away 
from the kitchen service tables. 



It is not so much the length of time foods are 
carried in cold storage that causes complaints 
against cold storage methods, as it is the condi- 



tion of the foods when placed in cold storage. 
Some foods, stored in perfect condition, will last 
ten times as long as other foods put into the 
warehouse on the verge of spoiling. This cold 
storage matter is very little understood by the 
general public. The complaints, says an expert, 
should be directed more frequently against the 
people who store the foods rather than against the 
warehouse in which thev are stored. 



140 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




T>iyt\^<i. i\OOiri 



THE KITCHEN OF HOTEL UTAH, SALT LAKE CITY 



From Description of Hotel Utah, Nov. 1911. 

The space available for kitchen and storeroom 
purposes was 170' by 70'. The plan shows how 
this space was utilized. 

The walls of the kitchen are all of white 
glazed tile, the floor of mosaic. Every article 
of furniture is up from the floor, and all corners 



are rounded tile, so there is no excuse for lodg- 
ment of dirt or vermin, for the entire room can 
be cleaned with the hose. 

The stewaril 's office controls the different store- 
rooms, the refrigerators, and the wine rooms. The 
chef's office controls the entire kitchen. Make 
a careful study of this kitchen plan. It will 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



141 




amply repay for the ideas therein expressed. 
Note the waiters' entrance on floor level from 
the grill; the waiters' entrance by partitioned 
stairway from the restaurant and banquet rooms; 
the service elevators for carrying waiters and 
their loaded trays to the banquet rooms. Note 
the checker's stand controlling all waiters' en- 
trances and exits; the service bar near the 
checker's stand; the service pantry, with urns, 
roll warmer, and refrigerators for cold plates, 
salads, etc.; and across the corridor from this 
pantry, the oyster pantry. Convenient to these 
pantries is a double deck rack for aluminum 
trays. At the kitchen end of the corridor are 



the battery of plate warmers and the automatic 
egg boiler. 

Now we enter the kitchen proper. To the left 
are grouped the dish washing, the glass washing 
and the silver washing departments; the counters 
for receiving the soiled wares handy for waiters' 
deposits, and the receptacles for cleaned and 
warmed wares as handy as handy can be for 
the waiters. Back of the silver washing depart- 
ment is the silver storage, silver cleaning and 
bufhnp- and knife polishing department. 

Now walk along the kitchen. Note the broilers 
and ranges to the right, with carving table, 
cooks' tables and bain marie, the vegetable room 



142 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



beyond the ranges; in the center of the kitchen 
the plate warmer with service top; to the left 
the ice cream, sugar and pastry rooms, and the 
bake shop with double deck oven; at the far 
end of the garde manger department with refri- 
gerator equipment; and back of it the butcher 
shop with work bench, meat cutter, meat, fish, 
poultry and game refrigerators, and the fish and 
lobster box. Pass through the butcher shop to 
its far end, and enter to the right the scullery 
and soup room, partitioned off from the kitchen 
proper with brick wall, and self contained for 
its purposes, as it should be. 

Now return to the main service corridor. Turn 
to the right beyond the service elevators and enter 
the steward's corridor. Here at the entrance is 



the steward's office, with all that goes on in 
his department under his eye. The china and 
glassware storage room is across the corridor 
from the steward's office. Walk down the stew- 
ard's corridor to the door, entering the butcher 
shop, and note the grouping of the refrigerators, 
the vegetable, butter and egg, and fruit cold 
storage entered direct from the corridor; the meat 
and other refrigerators through the butcher shop. 
Follow the steward's corridor further along and 
it leads to two large storerooms connected with 
each other by doorway, and at the far end of the 
corridor the wine storage room, directly con- 
nected with which is the cigar humidor, wine re- 
frigerator and' beer and ale refrigerator. 



KITCHEN OF THE BLACKHAWK, DAVENPORT, IOWA 



From description of The Blackhawk, Davenport, 

Iowa, April, 1915 

To the practical hotel keeper the kitchen of 

The Blackhawk is perhaps the most interesting 

feature. This department is superior to that of 



tects took it into consideration from the begin- 
ning, and before completing their plans were 
guided by advice from a practical hotel man; 
also by the manufacturer of the kitchen equip- 
ment, as to the important features of drainage, 



the average hotel, for the reason that the archi- ventilation, plumbing, steam and water connec- 




A kitchen scene in Hotel Blackhawk, Davenport, Iowa, showing the range, broiler, cooks' table; the 
garde manger counter to the left; the checker's desk to the right. This room is of so attractive finish 
that it is open to inspection o f guests at all times. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



143 




Plan of Kitchen, the Blackhawk, Davenport, Iowa, arranged and equipped by the Burton Range 
Co., Cincinnati. Just inside the entrance from the main dining room is the silver sink and silver 
heater to the right of the checker's desk; and to the left the pantry with coffee urns, cake griddle, 
toaster, waffle stove, refrigerators and ice cream cabinet; and alongside the pantry, the egg boilers. 
The center part of the room is clear except for banquet service plate warmers and roll warmers, which 
are located at the foot of the wide stairway leading to the banquet room overhead. The cooks' table 
and bain marie is in front of the range and broilers. The garde manger, fish and oyster box, meat 
block, Buffalo meat chopper and refrigerators for daily meat supply are to the left. The second cook's 
refrigerator, the garde manger refrigerator and the pantry refrigerator are shown grouped back to back, 
an economical arrangement. The compartment steamer is to the right of the range, and back of it the 
stock kettles and vegetable preparing room. To the right of the kitchen is the Niagara dishwashing 
machine, and the table display accessories for china and glass. The pan sink is shown in the lower 
right hand corner. The Tahara silver burnishing machine is located convenient to the silver sink. The 
serving corridor shown to the right leads past four private dining rooms to the lunch room, which is 
shown on the floor plan. 



tion^, and many other details that insure good 
working- conditions when properly attended to be- 
fore work on the structure commences. So it is 
that while space devoted to the kitchen is, per- 
haps, none too large, yet it permits the compact 
placing and arranging of the many different arti- 
cles of equipment, so that the work of the cooks 
and the waiters is unhampered by any makeshift 
arrangement. 

And, in the quipment of the kitchen, the house 
is particularly fortunate. The plans and speci- 
fications of a reliable range house were accepted, 
and these called for an installation of the first 



class, so that the satisfactory cuisine could be 
assured; and, also, that the finish and furnish- 
ment of the room to be so attractive as to be an 
advertisement for the house, in the sense of its 
being open at all times to inspection of the pa- 
trons. 

The space is 45' by 52'. The walls are white 
glazed tile to ceiling, and the floor of red tile. 
The ventilating ducts and all exposed pipes are of 
planished iron. 

All equipment for cold service is of steel, white 
enameled; and for hot service polished iron with 
polished steel trim. All furniture is up twelve 



144 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



inches from the floor; the feet of cast brass. The 
kitchen furniture was made by the Burton Steel 
Range Co. The Burton French coal ranges are 
of the heaviest construction, each section contain- 
ing one oven 24x27x17 inches, the top cooking 
surface is 16 1/6x3% inches, with a double plate 
shelf above, giving ample space for utensils. 
There is a French charcoal broiler and an aux- 
iliary gas broiler. One of these broilers is of the 
' ' Acorn ' ' Rathbone-Sard type. 

The cooks' table, bain marie, and carving table 
in front of the range is all steel. Under the cooks' 
table, in front of the broiler, is a broiler's short- 
order box. The entire front of the table is a 
Burton service plate warmer with body of polished 
iron, polished steel trim, and fitted with horizontal 
sliding doors, the top a serving shelf of polished 
steel. The bain marie has crocks of Hall china. 

In the direct center of the kitchen are com- 
bination banquet service tables and plate warm- 
ers, built of right height for tray stand, and with 
steel top. They are riveted to angle, and unsag- 
gable. The roll warmer, alongside the banquet 
table, is of the Burton type, with live steam in- 
jector, the doors opening from the center. 

The garde manger is a wholesome looking room 
with its bright enameled counter and other fit- 
tings. This white enamel is on 18-gauge steel 
fastened against 16-gauge steel body, and is typical 
of the other white enameled furniture. The kitchen 
plan shows the compactness of this garde manger 
department; the oyster box to the right, with fish 
table of metal; the meat block and cutting bench 
in the center of the room; the Buffalo meat chop- 
per that has become so indispensable in all well- 
appointed garde manger departments. And there 
is abundance of refrigerator accommodations for 
all requirements. The garde manger refrigerators 
are back to back with the pantry refrigerators 
and second cook's box, thus economizing the re- 
frigeration. There is also receptacle space for 
garnishings and cracked ice. 



Keeping Track of Things 

From description of Hotel Rogers, Minneapolis, 
October, 1911 
The system of keeping track of things is simpli- 
fied with time stamps, tags, and a basis of ex- 
change, as a clean piece for a soiled piece. Steaks, 
etc., in the short order box are tagged for in- 
ventory and to accurately check issues against 
sales. All orders are timed, so that receipt from 
and delivery to waiter is matter of record by auto- 
matic time stamp. Orders for tea and coffee are 
checked the same as customary for bar drinks. Ice 
is cubed and chipped, and charged out to depart- 
ments the same as provisions. All these things 
in the interests of getting exact information re- 
garding cost and time taken by employes to do cer- 
tain kinds of work. 



In the Steward's Department 

From description of Hotel McAlpin, New York, 
May, 1913: 

A look into the refrigerators: Continuing our 
tour through the stewards' department: The ice 
boxes (Lorillard), are inspected, and the system 
of management explained. The working stock of 
meats, etc., is maintained to an approximate 
amount, and issued in rotation according to time 
stamped on tag. All meats are tagged, showing 
the history of each item for identification and in- 
ventory purposes. This is a copy of tag: 



HOTEL McALPIN 

Received 

From 

Pounds 

Pieces 

Cost Per Piece $ 

Invoice No 

TAG TOR MEATS '. SIZE 2x3 INCHES. 



To illustrate quantities of working stock; take 
the item of loins. These approximate 200, and are 

a month old when stocked. 

* * * 

The guttered scrap table: The scrap tables in 
the dishwashing departments are edged with a 
gutter leading to scrap hole. This, Steward Kast 
explained, effects a saving in silver, as by travel- 
ing the gutter way, stray silver is discovered. 

Another device is a warmer for cups. It has 
steam coils all around and under the top, and the 
cups set individually into wire nests. This pre- 
vents breakage of handles, in particular. 

* * * 

Clean cupboards and sinks: All cupboards and 
sinks are locked when not in use, so as to prevent 
dust settling in them; this in the interest of sani- 
tation; for, said the steward, we cannot be too 
careful to have things clean and wholesome. 

Also, he explained, the reason why service in 
his department is continuously keyed. Mr. Kast 
was drilled in the German army, which is the great- 
est exposition of system in the world, and the key- 
note of which is "Be ready." That is the maxim 
in the McAlpin catering department, ' ' always 
ready, ' ' no matter how big the function. 



It is of the utmost importance that men and 
women employed in hotel, restaurant and insti- 
tution kitchens be in good health and of clean 
habits. It is a danger to any community to have 
its foods prepared by people infected with com- 
municable diseases. The people so fed are wounded 
with invisible weapons, and should be protected. 
The caterer should be conscientious in affording 
this protection. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



145 



KITCHEN OF THE BLACKSTONE, CHICAGO 



From the Hotel Monthly of June, 1910 
KEY TO THE BLACKSTONE KITCHEN 
PLAN: 1 — Pot sink, with shelving above; 2 — 
Large pot sink; 3 and 4 — Preparing table; 5 — 
Hall's "kitchen king"; 7 — Potato cutter; 8 — Pre- 
paring table; 9 — Shelving; 10 — Vegetable sinks; 
11 — Potato peeler, Delphire; 12 — Preparing table 
with shelving above; 13 — Copper drip pan under 
steamers; 14 and 15 — Compartment steamers; 16 
— Cooks' refrigerators; 17 — Copper cooling ket- 
tle; 18 to 22 — Copper steam jacket kettle; 23 — 
Cast iron grease kettle; 24 — Copper drip pans 
under kettles; 25 — Pot and pan table with shelv- 
ing above; 26 — Broiler cooks' refrigerator; 27 — 
Charcoal broiler with gas lighter; 28 — Ten gas 
broilers; 29 — Gas salamander above range; 30 — 
Four-fire range; 31 — Gas salamander above range; 
32 — Six-fire range; 33 — Ventilation hood above 
ranges, etc., to vent kitchen; 34 — Closed bain- 
marie in front of broilers; 35 — Cooks' sink of 
German silver; 36 — Elevated hot shelves; 37 — 
Heavy steel cooks' tables; 38 — Large closed bain- 
marie pan, enameled; 39 — Oyster bowls steam, Ger- 
man silver top; 40 — Elevated hot shelves; 41 — 
Cooks' sink of German silver; 42 — Heavy steels 
cooks' tables; 44 — Wood service table; 45 — Eus- 
sia iron brass-trimmed silver heater, wood' top; 
46 — Wood service table; 47 — Large Eussia brass- 
trimmed silver heater; 48 — Wood service table; 
49 — Eussia iron brass-trimmed silver heater, wood 
top; 50 — Small Eussia brass-trimmed silver heat- 
er; 51 — Wood service table; 52 — Enterprise elec- 
tric meat cutter; 53 — Meat-cutting bench of 
maple; 54 — Heavy butcher's sink; 55 — Meat- 
cutting sectional block; 56 — Carrara white glass 
service shelf; 57 — Combination service refriger- 
ator; 58 — Cold meat refrigerator; 59 — Service 
sink; 60 — Combination service refrigerator; 61 — 
Carrara white glass service shelf; 62 — Bouillon 
service cabinet; 63 — Cold meat refrigerator; 64 — 
Fish refrigerator; 65 — Lobster refrigerator; 66 — 
Wood preparing table; 67 — Chicken butcher's 
sink; 68 and 69 — Wood cutting bench; 70 — Fish 
butcher's sink; 71 — Chicken refrigerator; 72 — 
General kitchen refrigerator; 73 — Vent duct; 74 
— Crushed ice refrigerator; 75 — Dummy service 
tables with shelving above; 76 — Wall wood shelv- 
ing; 77 — 16-inch marble mortar and stand; 78 — 
Special counter sink; 79 — Carrara white glass 
service shelf; 80 — Oyster counter with slate slabs; 
81 — Special counter sink; 82 — Wood kitchen cabi- 
net; 83 — Oyster pantry refrigerator; 84 — Wood 
table with shelving above; 85 — Crushed ice service 
refrigerator; 86 — Cooks' dining tables; 87 — 
Checkers' counter; 88 — Drinking water-sink; 89 — 



Kitchen closet and shelving above; 90 and 91 — 
Kitchen storage cabinet; 92 — Kitchen closet with 
shelving above; 93 — Wood table with shelving 
above; 94 — Special silver sinks; 95 — Heavy wood 
dish table; 96 — Silver storage closet with draw- 
ers; 97 — Silver storage cabinet; 97 — Silver stor- 
age closet with drawers and shelving; 98 — Dilg 
knife polisher and table; 99 — Hamilton & Low 
buffing motor; 100 — Wood table to support ma- 
chine; 101 — Scratch brush motor; 102 — Washing 
sinks; 103— Wood table; 104— Wood table for 
clean silver, with shelving; 105 — No. 3 Blakeslee 
silver washer; 106 — Special soaking sinks; 107 — 
Clean silver and china table; 108 — Wood table for 
soiled silver; 109 — No. 7 Blakeslee dish washer, 
special; 110 — Wood receiving table for dishes; 111 
— Wood soiled dish table; 112 — Sink in table for 
soaking dishes; 113 — Chef's desk; 114 — Chef's 
cabinet; 115 — Chef's clothes closet; 116 — Chef's 
dining table; 117 — Assistant chef's desk; 118 and 
119 — Copper nickel-plated roll warmer; 120 — Bat- 
tery of urns and cup heater under; 121 — Wood 
table and special shelving above; 122 — Wood 
table; 123 — Coffee pantry sink; 124 — Wood table 
and special shelving above; 125 — Milk and pantry 
refrigerators; 126 — General pantry refrigerator; 
127 — Salad pantry sink; 128 — Wood preparing 
table; 129 — Combination service refrigerator; 130 
— Carrara white glass service shelf; 131 — Coffee 
pantry service counter; 132 — Special steam bowls, 
German silver top; 133 — Wood preparing table; 
134 — Wood closet and service counter; 135 — Spe- 
cial cereal cooker; 136 and 137 — Four-bucket 
Curtis egg boiler; 138 — Wood service counter; 
139 — Cake griddle and special waffle irons; 140 — 
Gas pastry stove; 141 — Double deck pastry oven; 
142 — Single deck bread oven; 143 Bread shop 
sink; 144 — Wood table with iron bread closet 
above; 145 — Iron bread closet; 146 — Wood work 
table; 147 — Wood preparing table; 148 — Iron 
proofing oven; 149 — Flour sifter; 150 — Triumph 
electric dough mixer; 151 and 152 — Steel dough 
trough; 153 and 154 — Preparing table of wood; 
155 — Bakery refrigerator; 156 — Marble slab; 157 
— Wood work table; 158 — Sink in table; 159 — 
Copper pastry kettle; 160 — Copper pastry kettle, 
tilting; 162 — Wood preparing table; 163 — Pastry 
shop sink; 164 — Wood flour bins; 165 and 166 — 
Wood preparing table; 167 — Wood service table; 
168 — Special ice cream refrigerator; 169 — Ice 
cream storage refrigerator; 170 — Wood special 
cabinet; 171 — Wood service table; 172 — Sink in 
the table; 173 — Wood service table with shelving 
above; 174 and 175 — Wood service counter. 

The Blackstone is the first of the great modern 



14H 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




KITCHEN AND BAKERY, THE BLACKSTONE, CHICAGO. (Designed and equipped by John Van 

Range Co.) 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



147 




KITCHEN AND BAKERY, THE BLACKSTONE, CHICAGO. (Designed and equipped by John Van 

Range Co.) 



148 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



hotels to locate the kitchen on what may be called 
the parlor floor (far removed from the basement), 
where the working conditions are of the most 
wholesome type, the mechanical ventilation thoro, 
and the facilities for service to the dining rooms 
greatly improved over those of kitchens located 
in the basement. 

It was a daring departure to appropriate such 
valuable space for the kitchen; but we venture 
to say it is the best policy to devote this valuable 
space to this department; for the kitchen is, in 
many respects, the most important part of a hotel. 
It should be safeguarded with every feature mak- 
ing for wholesome and sanitary conditions, both 
as to the cooks, the supplies, and all that goes 
to make up the dining room service. It deserves 
much larger space and better location, drainage 
and ventilation than the average architect plans 
for it. In The Blackstone the kitchen is given 
the consideration it deserves, and the result is 
the Blackstone cuisine will be unsurpassed any- 
where. 

The kitchen floor is 9x9 English red tile pitched 
to drains. The ventilation is by ducts inside the 
floor above. 

There is no carving table in the Blackstone 
kitchen, Chef Becker believing that the meats 
deteriorate when exposed on the carving table; 
so all joints are kept in ovens over the range, 
and the cooks do the carving from the range. 

The ranges, broilers and soup kettles stand on 
special raised foundation. 

Especial pains were taken to have the pantries 
provided with every convenience for promoting 
quick, correct and dainty service. The five service 
counters are topped with white Carrara glass, one 
inch thick. The refrigerators are of ample ca- 
pacity; the protected shelving for china and silver 
kept at desired temperatures; the department for 
cereals especially elaborate, insuring the sending 
to table of these foods in perfect form. The 
service of hot and cold milk, chocolate, etc., is 
from porcelain receptacles under German silver 
covers. The service of tea is elaborate: silver 
tray, silver tea pot, a silver water pot over alcohol 
lamp, silver sugar bowl and cream pitcher, and 
glasses for lemon and ice; the tea sent to tabTe 
in separate envelope, marked with the kind. The 
wnflle irons are a special design of Chef Becker's. 
The Curtis egg boiler is used. 

The oyster pantry has special bins for the dif- 
ferent kinds of oysters, slate counter top, and 
chipped ice compartments. 

All refrigerators stand four inches from the 
floor, each on insulated block of cement. Every 
box has outside drain. The refrigerators in the 
pantries are all with German silver tops. The 
refrigerators in the service rooms all have the 



pull-out shelves for the convenience of resting, 
assorting, etc. 

A new feature of the kitchen tables is that the 
legs are of sheridized iron, which looks like nickel, 
but will not flake off or rust; and on the foot of 
each leg is a brass cap to protect the floor. This 
sheridized iron is something new. The iron is 
heated, then rolled into a powder of zinc which 
is amalgamated into the iron, and in the finish 
gives the nickel appearance. It is very hard, and, 
unlike nickel, can be roughly handled, just as iron 
is, without showing a scratch. 

The dishwashing machine is a No. 7 Blakeslee, 
with one rinse and three suds tanks, capacity 
12,000 pieces per hour; occupying floor space less 
than three by nine feet, and operated with 1% 
h. p. motor. The Blakeslee company also in- 
stalled a silver washing machine similar to the 
dishwasher, except smaller; also an ice chipper 
and ice cuber, both these machines of the latest 
improved type. The ice cuber is operated with 
1 h. p. motor. 

A novelty in the kitchen service is an automatic 
dish elevator, by which dishes are carried in 
wooden trays on endless chain to and from the 
dishwashing department. 

The Dilg knife polisher is installed. 

The kettles and steamers are out of sight, back 
of the kitchen proper, all ranged in a row. There 
is a battery of seven copper kettles, composed 
of three stock kettles 70 gallons each, two 50 gal- 
lons each, one 70 gallons, used for consomme 
cooler, and one 60 gallons, for grease. Each kettle 
and steamer has direct ventilation to the stack. 
The kitchen plan shows the location of steamers, 
vegetable boxes, and pot sinks in the kettles' 
corridor. 

There is a separate service kitchen on the ball 
and banquet room floor especially for banquet 

service. 

* * * 

Said F. E. Eicketts, of the John Van Range Co. 
(who superintended the installation of the kitchen 
department): "I don't suppose there is an- 
other hotel in America, and possibly not in the 
world, that has its kitchen so well adapted for 
service to the dining rooms as The Blackstone. 
In what I am going to say I am not taking any 
credit for the John Van Range Co., but want 
to say that the Drake Brothers, and the archi- 
tects, in locating The Blackstone kitchen where 
they have, midway between the main restaurant 
and the banquet hall; and fixing the main stair- 
ways to these rooms for convenient and quick 
service; and locating the freight and service ele- 
vators, the service stairways, the dummy service 
lifts, and the garbage chute where they have; and 
putting the kitchen up where there is such an 
abundance of window light; and fixing the floors 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



149 



with gravity drain; and putting the ventilating 
ducts up out of the way, they provided the kind 
of a room that does a range man's heart good 
to be turned loose in and given every opportu- 
nity to arrange and supply a first-class equip- 
ment. It was up to. our firm to take advantage 
of all these good things in the space allotted for 
the kitchen; and you may be sure we have done 
our level best. We have put in the finest ranges, 
tables, pantry equipment and utensils it is pos- 
sible to make. We were instructed to do this, 
and the result shows. In the plan you are going 
to j>rint your readers will see the general layout, 
and those familiar with kitchen requirements, espe- 
cially for the first-class hotel, will appreciate the 
many good points. ' ' 

The refrigeration, by Kroeschell machines, is 
in two units, one of 120 tons for air cooling; the 
other of fifty tons for general refrigerating. The 
capacity for ice making is eight tons daily, using 
for this purpose the Jewell system, which freezes 
the ice in cans from the pure water. In the 
freezing process the water is agitated with air 



jet, which throws out all impurities. The ice 
tanks are in brine. The ice is made by this process 
much quicker than by other methods. Alongside 
the refrigerating plant is a condensing coil com- 
posed of a mile of pipe. 



KITCHEN OF WOODRUFF INN, JOLIET, ILL. 

The kitchen has Wrought Iron Eange Company 
equipment, the fuel coal and gas. It is located 
directly between the main dining room and the 
lunch room, and its arrangement to serve this pur- 
pose is clearly shown in the plan. It will be noted 
that the pantry and dishwashing departments are 
most convenient to the dining room entrance, and 
that the lunch room is practically self-contained as 
to its operating features, having urns and cream 
cabinet within the room, and a small kitchen for 
24-hour work independent of the main kitchen. 
The main kitchen has Bromley-Merseles dishwash- 
ing machine, Blakeslee knife cleaner, Elgin butter 
cutter, and the mechanical devices for egg boiling, 
vegetable paring, roll warming, ice chipping and 
the like. 




Plan of kitchens for dining room and lunch room of Woodruff Inn, Joliet, III., designed and equipped by 

the Wrought Iron Range Company, of St. Louis. 



150 



GLEAN TXGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



BEING PURIFIED — OFFICIALLY 



It's a pity always to be obliged to explain that 
one believes in purity of all kinds — mental purity, 
physical purity, poetic purity, dramatic purity, 
political purity and "pure joodl ,J 

Every hotelkeeper is pestered by the salesman 
who lauds his food products for "purity'" and, 
inferentially, lays all his competitors under sus- 
picion of not being in his "pure" class. 

How long must the purveyor of foods be sub- 
jected to the petty interferences of officials lack- 
ing any adequate scientific knowledge and possess- 
ing a vacant space where a large bump of com- 
mon sense should be prominent? 

The writer stopped at a fancy fruiterer's stand 
one cold night this November and demanded, in 
a voice meant to give an impression of authority, 
what said vender meant by displaying strawberries 
for sale without a license, when he knew they 
were out of season. The "bluff," intended for a 
joke, was taken seriously, and the fruit dealer 
humbly replied that he did not know about a li- 
cense being required, nor that it was illegal, and 
"How much is the license?" Being reassured, he 
explained that one never could tell, as the health 
officer had, the week prior to my visit, ordered the 
replacement of an electric overhead rotary fan 
"to blow the dust away from the fruit." If the 
order had been to protect the fruit from street 
dust it might have been justifiable. 

Our wholesale meat supply house is under gov- 
ernment supervision — and we hasten to say: "Eight 
and good." But what must be thought of the 
wise discretion of officialdom when they require 
knives and saws — handles and all — to be boiled 
a half hour each night? Then think on this: The 
meat blocks upon which meats are cut and bones 
chopped and sawed all day are never sterilized or 

boiled. 

Benzoate of soda, used in medicine in doses of 
five grains and upwards with good effect for vari- 
ous irritations of a catarrhal character, comes un- 
der condemnation of "pure food" writers when 
used as a preservative in catsup in amount of 
1/10 of 1 per cent. About the heaviest catsup on 
the market weighs 530 grains per fluid ounce, so 
the person consuming an ounce of catsup — which 
is probably a fair average quantity — would get 

only :i little more than half a grain. To be exact, 

fifty-three one hundredths of one grain. Which 
is Wetter, to have catsup "working," or ferment- 
ing, in the bottle when kept at the usual tempera- 
ture of many restaurants, or the benzoated kind? 

The writer U86B :i Catsup without the benzoatp ; but 

looks Cor the catsup with the 1/lo of 1 per cent 

when away from liome. 

Glucose seems to be under tlie ban on the old 



principles of ' ' give a dog a bad name. ' ' Yet 
some authorities regard glucose as being more 
readily assimilable than cane sugar. There was 
a time when Italian or French chestnuts came to 
the American market preserved in glucose and 
flavored with a piece of Mexican vanilla bean. 
But on account of the prejudice against glucose 
we are now supplied with chestnuts packed in cane 
sugar syrup; the chestnuts, under the new treat- 
ment, often being hard and discolored and some 
times granulated with sugar. 

At one time the finest cuts of salt codfish were 
prepared with a small percentage of boric acid. 
This was soaked out in the freshening process, so 
that a mere trace remained. But such clamor has 
been raised about boric acid that (altho it is used 
in eye lotions with soothing effect) the fish curers 
dare not use it for foods for fear of the terrible 
"pure food" magazine writer. Which is the bet- 
ter — the possibly partly spoiled salt cod of sum- 
mers of the present, or the salt and boric acid cod- 
fish we used to get? Some of us have fine cold 
storage rooms to keep such articles ; but the house- 
keeper has no such equipment, and even with the 
cold storage results are not always perfect. 

Slightly salted and slightly borated caviar once 
came to this country and was of good appearance, 
flavor and digestibility — and the price was mod- 
erate. Now we have the alternative of fresh ca- 
viar at $6.50 per pound, or a highly salted and un- 
pleasant caviar that does not keep well in the can 
or out of it, and often is extremely unpleasant and 
probably unwholesome. 

Eight hereabouts is where the professional 
"pure food" agitator is likely to rise to remark 
that no foods should be preserved by chemicals 
(another bogey word) ; but let us think about that. 
Vinegar is a chemical — it is acetic acid; alcohol 
is a chemical, yet who disdains the brandied 
peach? Table salt is a chemical, it is sodium 
chloride, yet who wishes to eat unsalted food.' 

Salicylic acid arrests fermentation in cider, but 
its use is generally interdicted. (To be sure, it 
has often been used excessively and recklessly.) 
But isn't it a singular thing that our grandmothers 
kept the children quiet in church with teaberry and 
peppermint candies on account of their "carmin- 
ative" properties! And has anyone stopped to 
consider that salicylic acid was first derived from 
oil of teaberry, and that another vegetable anti- 
septic is the stearopten, menthol, obtained from 
peppermint oil? 

The latest bit of official wisdom is said to be 
a requirement thai the California fruit packers 
shall no longer label their cans "Lemon cling 
peaches," but "Yellow cling peaches." Some 

one, forsooth, would be deceived into thinking that 
a lemon clung to the peach! — Subscriber. 









GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



151 



INCREASE THE EARNING POWER 



In a discussion, the other day, regarding a ho- 
tel's limitations in what it has to sell, the idea 
was advanced that the hotel could add to its earn- 
ing power by merchandising its kitchen products 
and sell to other than guests. Also that by oper- 
ating a business store within the house it could 
supply its guests at all hours with goods custom- 
arily handled by retail stores, as haberdashery, 
toilet articles, notions, and the like. As it is, the 
average hotel sells only its rooms and its board. 
These rooms are limited in number, and the din- 
ing room seats are limited. 

The question was put: Have any hotels at- 
tempted to increase their profits beyond rooms, 
board, bar, cigars, clothes pressing and laundry? 

One of the replies mentioned the cabinet device 
that has been placed in the bedrooms of a num- 
ber of hotels, by which the dropping of a quarter 
in a slot delivers one of a limited assortment of 
toilet articles; the hotel receiving a percentage on 
the sale. 

Another instanced to this effect: There is a 
man in Chicago named Joseph Beifeld of Hotel 
Sherman, who carries a wise head. Mr. Beifeld 
built the Sherman on a good corner and placed 
business stores along the ground floor fronts, from 
which he derives sufficient revenue to pay ground 
lease and some other expenses. In this way he is 
not actually engaged in merchandising the goods 
sold in the stores in his hotel, but indirectly, from 
the sub-rents, he shares in the profits. But Mr. 
Beifeld went a great deal further than this when 
he started a delicatessen store in his hotel. He 
employes one of the ablest chefs in America to 
produce table delicacies. These are palate pleasers 
for the patrons of his restaurants. On the bills of 
fare there is a notation that such and such deli- 
cacies may be purchased for home consumption 
from the delicatessen store in the hotel. And to 
further the business of this delicatessen store and 
bring to it patronage from the outside, he has is- 
sued a circular listing more than one hundred dif- 
ferent prepared foods under head of ' ' College 
Inn Specials, ' ' which brings a lot of business to 
the Sherman that would not come otherwise. He 
has abundant kitchen facilities, and it is simply a 
matter of executive talent, and the producing of 
prepared foods in larger quantities for the sale 

outside the dining rooms. 

* * * 

To be further informed on this delicatessen 
business, we have procured a copy of the circular, 
which is headed: "COLLEGE INN KITCHEN 
SPECIALTIES FURNISHED IN SEALED 
GLASS JARS! Under this head are included 
foods cooked in the Hotel Sherman kitchen and 
guaranteed in quality to be exactly the same as 



served in the College Inn. Everything will be 
cooked to order under the direction of M. Stalle, 
the chef of the Hotel Sherman. " 

To illustrate the wide range of these special- 
ties, we quote from the circular under head of 
Soups: Green sea turtle; Bisque of crabs, of 
oysters, of clams; Crab flakes a la Richelieu; 
Cream of fresh mushrooms, St. Germain ; Chicken 
gumbo, Creole; Mulligatawney, chicken, vegetables; 
Puree of chicken a la Reine; Mock turtle a l'An- 
glaise (the real onion soup of Paris). 

Under head of Entrees and Specials there is 
listed: Chicken a la King; Creamed chicken with 
fresh mushrooms; Chicken a la bung loo (chicken 
chop suey) ; creamed chicken, mushrooms, paprika 
sauce; Unjointed milk-fed chicken, fried in but- 
ter; Crab meat, Maryland; Lobster Newburg; 
Shrimp a la Creole; Sweetbreads, Creole; Cubed 
beef tenderloin, mushrooms and peppers; Creamed 
Hungarian veal goulash. 

Under head of Cold Dishes and Salads: Chicken 
in aspic ; Lobster in aspic ; Shrimp and sardine 
aspic; Lobster, Chicken, Crab meat, Herrings, 
Russian, Macedoine and Waldorf salads; Potato 
salad with oil dressing, with bacon dressing, with 
cream mayonnaise. 

Under head of Roast Fowl, etc: Whole roasted 
poulard, capon, spring chicken, turkey, squabs. 

There is a list of "Assorted Hors d'Oeuvre and 
Canapes," also of "Fancy Reception Sand- 
wiches, ' ' and ' ' Fillings for Patties. ' ' 

Under head of Pastries, Etc., are: Assorted 
French pastries, Petits fours, Coffee cakes, Cin- 
namon cakes, Apfel strudel, Cheese delkl, Pattie 
shells, Lebkuchen. Then follows a list of cold 
meat specials, sausages, mayonnaises, and imported 
delicacies featured by the hotel, all of which are 
on sale in the shop. And at the foot of every page 
is an announcement of the "K" bread, which is 
the German army bread. 



KITCHEN OF FORT PITT HOTEL, PITTSBURGH 



From descriptive article in The Hotel Monthly of 
August, 1909: 
. . . The working department of the Fort Pitt 
takes up the greater part of the basement. The 
plan of it can be studied with interest and profit 
by anyone who has to do with catering. The stair- 
ways up to the restaurants are shown in the cen- 
ter of the plan, with checkers' stands directly 
alongside and within the kitchen. The space 
marked "Kitchen" is the only place where the 
waiter 's work carries him, outside . of the restau- 
rants. . . . The floor space shown in the plan aggre- 
gates 110 x 216 feet. The kitchen was equipped 
thruout by the John Van Range Company. Eef- 
erence to the key will inform in a general way of 
the principal articles of equipment. (Seepage 152) 



152 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




PLAN OF KITCHEN, BAKESHOP and REFRIGERATORS In the Fort Pitt Hotel of Pittsburg. 
(Kitchen equipped by John Van Range Co.; refrigerators by Bernard Gloekler Co.) 



The cold storage equipment (Gloekler) includes 
with the main storage room a total of thirty-five 
refrigerators. In the main storage room all in- 
teriois are finished in white enamel; the walls are 
cork insulated; all shelves and meat rails are made 
of steel and heavily tinned; the floors are of ter- 
azza and provided with special drains; all doors 
are provided with new patented gravity hinges 
and automatic fasteners, which close the doors au- 
tomatically, thus doing away with door checks and 
springs. All other refrigerators for the various 
departments are of special design and unique in 
appearance. All doors are provided with special 
design of extra heavy solid brass hinges and auto- 



matic fasteners. The interiors are lined thruout 
with metal and enamel; all shelving is of metal; 
and all floors are of terazzo. From a sanitary 
standpoint, this equipment is unexcelled. 

The fish box is something of a novelty. The fish 
are kept in separate drawers, each drawer labeled 
with the kind of fish it holds. The fish are iced 
daily, and the meltage is carried off by gravity 
drain. The top of the fish box is of marble. 

The refrigerator in the salad pantry has thirty 
or more drawers for holding the different prepared 
dishes ready for immediate service. 

Key to plan of Fort Pitt Hotel kitchen 

2, refrigerators; 3, ice cream; 4, urn; 5, shelv- 






GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



153 




PLAN OF KITCHEN, BAKESHOP and REFRIGERATORS in the Fort Pitt Hotel of Pittsburg. 
(Kitchen equipped by John Van Range Co.; refrigerators by Bernard Gloekler Co.) 



ing; 6, sink; 7, shelves over; 8, puree machine; 
9, vegetable steamer; 10, potato parer; 11, com- 
partment steamer; 12, bain marie; 13, hot plate; 
14, closet heater; 15, plate warmer; 16, service 
counter; 17, automatic egg boilers; 18, roll warm- 
er; 19, griddle; 20, table; 21, lift door; 22, fish 
cleaning table (marble top) ; 23, drier (for towels 
in glass and silver pantries) ; 24, breading box; 
25, meat block; 26, gas roasting oven; 27, salaman- 
der; 28, desk; 29, garbage room; 30, garbage 
chute; 31, waffles; 32, toaster; 33, pudding steam- 
er; 34, special silver sink; 35, buffing room; 36, 
knife cleaner (Dilg) ; 37, shelving for dishes and 
glasses used for pastry room ; 38, pan rack ; 39, 



pastry kettles; 40, dumpling steamer; 41, egg 
heater ; 42, dough mixer ; 43, sifter ; 44, vent ; 45, 
ice cream freezer; 46, butcher sink; 47, poultry sink; 
48, meat grinder; 49, Lee bread crumber; 50, meat 
slicing machine; 51, bread closet; 52, vent pipe 
over kettles; 53, coil with blocked tin brine pipes; 
54, cream separator; 55, milk heater; 56, milk 
bottle filler; 57, oyster stewers; 58, silver shelves; 
61, boot black stand; 62, white females' toilet 
room; 63, room service; 64, 80-gallon copper soup 
kettle; 65, 80-gallon cast iron soup kettles; 66, 
60-gallon cast iron soup kettles; 67, 40-gallon cast 
iron vegetable boiler; 68, smoke flue; 69, closets 
for storing china, etc., banquet service. 



154 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




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This main kitchen of the William Penn Hotel is one of the finest culinary work shops ever produced. 
It is a full floor and a half above ground; has window light on three sides; has perfect mechanical ven- 
tilation; and is arranged to serve dining rooms a half floor down at each end. . . . The checkers' stands 
are located controlling the stairways at each end. The accompanying article descriptive of this kitchen, 



KITCHENS OF THE WILLIAM PENN HOTEL, PITTSBURGH 



From Description of the William Penn Hotel, 
Pittsburgh, July, 1916. 

Cold and heat installation 

The contract for the cold and heat installa- 
tions necessary for the storing and preparing- of 
foods for the William Penn Hotel was the 
largest ever taken by a single house. This great 
investment was made in order that the hotel 
should be superlative in these respects. The 
Bernard Gloekler Company, a Pittsburgh house 
of national reputation, was commissioned to 
equip the kitchens, pantries and cold storage 
with the very best devices possible to insure the 

wholesome cuisine. 

» * # 

The main kitchen 

The main kitchen, occupying the rear half of 
the mezzanine floor, is located somewhat after 
the manner of The Blackstone kitchen in Chi- 
cago, in that steps from the kitchen lead down 
to the dining rooms; or, rather, to the service 
pant lies of the dining rooms on the main floor. 
This gives the main kitchen abundance of nat- 
ural light and ventilation, in addition to the 
artificial ventilation, and it is as wholesome a 



work-room as can be made for the preparation 
of foods. 

The kitchen walls and counters are faced with 
white enamel brick, Norman size (12"x4"x2%") ; 
the floor is of tile; all ranges, steam tables and 
refrigerators are set up on 6" sanitary base. 
The ceiling is furred; that is, it is dropped and 
forms a false ceiling, which hides all overhead 
pipes, that so often disfigure and are a nuisance 
in kitchens. The plumbing and drains are all 
of superior workmanship, placed to best advan- 
tage, so as to save pipe and space. All coils 
are brass. There are no pipes exposed. All 
the woodwork in the main kitchen, including 
refrigerators, counter tops, etc., is of solid wal- 
nut, finished to look like cabinet work. Even 
refrigerators in the scullery are so finished. 
The utensils are copper. 

The refrigerators are built with flush doors 
and made air-tight by means of a gasket (pat- 
ented by Gloekler) which can be taken out and 
renewed. The hardware is a special feature. 
The interiors are marbleoid finish. All small 
boxes are floored with %" hexagon tile; all 
large boxes with 6" nonskid tile. The doors of 
full size have double glass in upper panel. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



155 




together with comment on the superb equipment, will be found interesting reading for all caterers. . . . 
The dumb waiters for floor service are shown to the extreme right of the kitchen proper. . . . The pastry 
room is shown to the extreme right of the plan; this department fortunate with upstairs location, and 
with equipment second to none. 



As we walk thru the kitchen, we will call at- 
tention to the principal articles of equipment 
as we pass along, beginning at the end nearest 
the Italian dining room pantry : 

Cube and frappe ice refrigerator built up 
of brick, with three shelves over for champagne 
coolers and the necessary glasses. 

Coffee mill with two heads, one for ground, 
one for pulverized ; 1 h. p. motor. 

Service bar refrigerator for wines: guaran- 
teed 2-7/10 points b. t. u. per square foot for 
twenty-four hours' test. The centerpiece for 
this bar service room in form of a pyramid 
stand of walnut for glassware and cocktail 
servers. Along the rear wall is a still wine 
display case, with sliding glass doors and wood 
panel sliding doors below, all of polished wal- 
nut. 

Dietitique dupense (diet kitchen) for serving 
of diet foods, as cereals, toast, etc. All cereals 
cooked in Hall china pots. Hot plates, waffle 
cooker and elevated toaster for toasting both 
sides at once : the elevated toaster a convenience, 
as on a level with the cook's eye. Also, there is 
a small refrigerator. 

The coffee pantry, centered with a battery of 
German silver urns, four of these grouped 
around hot water urn, all set up on a German 
diver stand; a plate warmer with sliding ball 



bearing doors on three sides. The urns are 
capped with a Gothic canopy of German silver. 
It has a fine appearance. The room has refrig- 
erator equipment. 

Plate warmer alongside coffee pantry (for 
glass, silver, teacups, etc.). This is of German 
silver, even to the shelves. At one end of it is 
a roll warmer and moistener. It has sliding 
doors. The moistener is by jet of live steam. 

Second chef's office, controlling all kitchens. 

Bulletin board located on the wall near center 
of room. 
New style pot sinks 

The pot washer department : Extra large 
sinks (8' long, 30" wide, 20" deep) in two com- 
partments, and a small grease compartment 
(9"x30") with grease trap below. The sinks 
are arranged one an inch or so below the other, 
so that a continuous supply of water in the 
clean, or rinse water tank overflows into the 
washing tank, and from there into the grease 
tank. The sinks are of %" boiler plate, heavily 
tinned after fabrication. The compartments 
have a 6" working ledge in front for resting 
pans on when cleaning. A new idea for empty- 
ing pot sinks is by lever below to connect with 
throttle valve, so they can be emptied instantly; 
and no chain in the way. The drain boards are 
7' long by 40" wide, flushed up in back 8", and 



156 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




bent back 2", giving a sanitary condition. There 
are two 20" shelves over for coppers, and one 
shelf under. 

Refrigerator box for general holdover storage. 

A Lee Victor power bread crumber, and a 
Gloekler cheese grater. 

A metal table with two metal shelves over and 
two metal shelves under for storage of pots, 
strainers, etc. 

The slock kettles: three 80-gallon cast iron 
jacketed kettles, with copper hinged lift cover; 
one 80-gallon and one 50-gallon copper jacketed 
kettle; four-compartment Gloekler vegetable 
steamer. All kettles are set in 3" depression 
in floor and all set up on 3" composition mar- 
bleoid blocks, to elevate. All drain to one com- 



mon center. All connect with copper vent pipe 
that runs along back of the kettles. Over 
kettles is a copper canopy, tinned inside and 
out. It hangs from ceiling by half-inch rod. 
It projects 4' 6", and along its inner edge is a 
gutter for the condensation. 

Puree machine : Gloekler special, driven by 
% h. p. motor, for mashing potatoes, soup 
straining, etc. A machine that has become pop- 
ular in large kitchens. 

Tilting kettle, 30-gallon, with gear arrange- 
ment for safety. 

Cold consomme sink, 38%" high, set into steel 
top table 42"x30"x20" deep, running cold water 
all the time. 

The ranges: 40', with extra heavy cast iron 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



157 




Scenes from kitchens, pantries, pastry room and store rooms of William Penn Hotel, Pittsburgh, 
equipped by Bernard Glockler Company: 1, ranges, main kitchen; 2, cook's tables with new style pan 
racks, main kitchen; 3, roasting ovens, broilers and ranges, eighteenth floor kitchen; 4, German silver 
coffee urns in pantry, main kitchen; 5, silver heaters, main kitchen; 6, service counter in Elizabethan 
kitchen; 7, stock kettles, main kitchen; 8, pot and pan washing room; main kitchen; 9, dietetique du~ 
pense (diet kitchen) in main kitchen; 10, pantry for the banquet room; 11, banquet heaters; 12, corner 
of pastry department; 13, maids' cafeteria style dining room; 14, refrigerator in stock room; 15, scrap 
table and dishwashing machine. 



top 1" thick ; the ranges 4' 6" wide, with two 
large shelves and four 30" gas salamanders 
over. The doors of drop type and guaranteed 
to sustain a weight of 1,000 pounds when open. 
The ranges connecting up with 3" gas line with 
one controlling valve at end. All ranges are 
connected up with secret brick flue, which runs 
entire length of range, and connects with main 
smokestack. This gives apparent absence of 
flues, yet each section has its own flue. 

Three 36"-6' high Gloekler roasting ovens ; all 
polished trim; and three 36" special Gloekler 
gas broilers. All broilers and roasting ovens 
connected up with separate gas connection oper- 
ated by individual valve, and one controlling 
valve at end of line. All ranges and broilers set 
up on 6" sanitary base. 

The canopy hood has a Gloekler patented 
baffle plate protection against fire from grease; 
this can be dropped from the ceiling for clean- 
ing purposes. And it is electric lighted on the 
inside. 

The cooks' tables: There are four of them, 



two 15' 4", and two 11' 6"x4'. There is a space 
5' wide between the range and cooks' tables. 
The table tops are %" polished steel, with vari- 
ous bain marie sinks and steam tables set in. 
The bain maries are set up 3" above the table 
and finished in German silver. The overflow 
is connected up with drain. The plumbing is 
an especially commendable feature. All con- 
nections are easily get-at-able; all free standing 
waste lines are connected with an anti-syphon 
trap, eliminating the use of vent lines, which 
improves the appearance of the kitchen. 
New style pan racks 

An entirely new feature of these cooks' tables 
are the pan racks. These look like trees, one over 
each table. The stem is 2^" polished pipe 
carrying a 36" diameter pot rack, which revolves 
on ball bearings. The capacity is twenty hooks 

to the rack. 

* * * 

Garde manger department: Has special de- 
signed refrigerator 12' 6" long, 4' 6" wide, with 
elevated serving shelf and a display case over. 



158 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 









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The great cold storage refrigerators in the William Perm Hotel, built by Bernard Gloekler Co. 



In rear of the display ease is a 3" maple work- 
ing' top, which has a cold consomme compart- 
ment sunk in flush with top and cooled with 
coils. The refrigerator has hinged doors back 
and front, and refrigerator coils run thru the 
center. Against the garde manger wall is an- 
other refrigerator 13' 6", full height, divided 
off into two compartments with different tem- 
peratures. In the center of the room is a work 
table with 3" maple top set up on IV2" legs, 
with adjustable ball feet and adjustable shelf, 
and with two metal drawers for knives, etc. 
The fish refrigerator is 9'x3' 6", its marble top 
with a gutter drain cut in around it, and three 
shelves over. There is a separate table with 
drawers and cupboards for miscellaneous stor- 
age; a sink; a Buffalo meat chopper; cutting 
bench with shelves under, enclosed with hinged 
steel door; a nimble mortar. 

Alongside the garde manger there rises the 
four automatic dumb waiters for room service; 
and alongside them is a dumb waiter table for 
general supplies; a large metal bin on rollers 
under the table: also a tray stand. 

Floor service pantries 

There is a floor service pantry on each of the 
third, fifth, eighth, eleventh and fourteenth 
floors, each pantry serving three floors, the one 



immediately above and below it. Each of these 
pantries has electric dumbwaiter connection with 
the main kitchen, and telautograph service with 
every department in the house. The equipment 
includes an L-shaped warmer, electric heated, 
with hot plate at one end and griddle and two- 
gallon hot water urn on the other; two bucket 
Curtis egg boiler ; 4'x3' 6" refrigerator, with 
display cases for glass, silver, condiments, etc. 
A two-compartment sink. The service tables 
are 18"x36" units. 



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Plan of Service Pantries located on the second, 
fifth, eighth, eleventh and fourteenth floors of the 
William Penn Hotel. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



159 




Banquet Hall Service Pantry, located on seven- 
teenth floor of William Penn Hotel. 



The butcher shop 

The butcher shop refrigerator is built of two 
layers of 2" cork with half -inch coat of plaster 
in between; and special built-in coil bunkers 
of cork insulation laid in steel frame, and en- 
tirely covered with waterproof plaster. The 
cork put in steel work was laid in hot pitch. 
The ceiling is of 8" I beams, all coils hung 
from ceiling. Mr. Lindsay said : ' ' The boxes 




160 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



are designed and built of steel frame made of 
8" I beams, columns and angles, so that when 
refrigerators were finished the steel work was 
entirely concealed, and all weight taken off: 
floors of building and thrown onto columns." 
The doors of this (and of all the full size 
refrigerators) open from inside as well as out- 
side. Lights are automatically turned on when 
door is opened. The shelves are of steel, adjust- 
able, removable; set on adjustable ball feet. 
The freezer box is at 29 degrees. There is a fish 



box and thawing tank. The Buffalo meat chop- 
per is used. 
Vegetable preparing room 

In the vegetable preparing room the vegetable 
sinks are of stoneware on angle iron frame. 
The stone composition is of marble dust, white 
medusa cement and marble chips, ground and 
polished, and molded in the building on the 
frames. 

The garbage cans are 24", all steel drawn, so 
no seams or corners; thoroly sanitary. 



A "Boiled Down" Cook Book Idea: Basic Dish as Key-Note for Variations 



In the realm of cookery the cook books are 
filled with dishes of different names, many of 
them very similar in their composition. Thus, 
one basic dish may carry the principal ingredi- 
ents and the same work in its preparation, 
almost to completion, so that of forty or fifty 
other dishes in the same cook book, each of 
which may be individually explained at length. 

The thought occurred to 'us that a chef 
familiar with these variations might write a 
recipe for one commonly known or basic dish 
and supplement this recipe with the variations, 
giving the names of the different dishes, but, 
instead of writing complete recipes for them, 
simply write the necessary changes to conform 
to the change of name. In other words, take 
one particular dish as a key-note, and play 
upon it, bringing forth a melody of culinary 
creations, running the gamut of the scale, and 
making it much easier for the cook getting 
instructions from a cook book, to keep in mind, 
or be accurately reminded of, just what changes 
are necessary for the different dishes by learning 
thoroly the basic dish and having ready means 
of information as to the different garnishments, 
etc. To this end, we asked Mr. Rivers, author 
of The Butcher, Garde Manger, and Carver, to 
produce a few recipes and their variations along 
this line. He has supplied the following to 
illustrate the idea: 

CHICKEN SAUTE 

The Fried or Sauted Chicken entree is one 
of almost innumerable variations. It is a great 
favorite and of much class, and a modern Euro- 
pean bill of fare is hardly complete that does 
not list this dish in one of its many forms. 

The basis of this entree is a spring chicken 
weighing about two pounds; a half chicken to 
the portion; generally quartered, seasoned with 
salt and pepper, dipped in milk and rolled in 
flour; fried in a sautoir or frying pan with 
drawn butter or other cooking fat; a fried or 
toasted crouton of bread generally being served 
with the different forms. 



SPRING CHICKEN SAUTE, MASCOTTE 

For a single portion, take the half of a 
chicken weighing about two pounds, cut in 
quarters and trim it of excess bones. Season 
well with salt and pepper. Dip the pieces in 
milk, then roll them in flour. Place them to 
cook in a pan containing drawn butter, giving 
them plenty of time to cook well done and a 
rich brown color. Make a " country' ; or 
"own" gravy of the fat in which the chicken 
has been cooked, by adding a little flour and 
letting it cook to a nice flavored brown, to 
which add hot milk, or stock. Let this boil 
and form enough. When it is ready to strain, 
place on a platter along with the bread croutons, 
on which place the fried chicken. Garnish with 
quartered artichokes rissolee, fresh mushrooms, 
truffles and potato Parisienne. Adorn the leg 
piece with a chop frill, also a parsley or cress 
bouquet. The following named dishes are vari- 
ations from the basic dish, Spring Chicken 
Saute, Mascotte. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Toulouse : Garnish with 
quenelles, mushrooms, truffles, kidneys, sauce 
supreme. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Argenteuil: Garnish 
with asparagus tips, steamed scooped pota- 
toes, au parsley sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Hongroise: Timbal of 
rice, diced onions and ham, paprika sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Victor Hugo : Fresh 
mushrooms, potatoes mignon, calf's brain 
fritter, cream sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Oriental: Timbal of 
rice, egg plant fritter, lozenges of green 
peppers, curry sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Virginian : Virginia 
ham, mushrooms, sweet potato rissole, own 
gravy. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Regence: Shallots, 
julienne of egg plant, sliced tomato saute, 
gravy. 

Spring- Chicken Saute, Monte Carlo: Cucum- 
bers veloute, stuffed tomato, potato chateau, 
shallot sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Louisane: Corn and 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



161 



peppers au gratin, potato mignon, cream cel- 
ery sauce. 
Spring Chicken Saute, Edward VII: Timbal 
of rice, broiled tomato, French peas, potato 
Anglaise, herb sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Rivoli: Mushrooms, 
diced ham, croustade of French peas, sauce 
supreme. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Rothschild: Mush- 
rooms, truffles, quenelles, potato chateau, sauce 
madere. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Lucullus: Croustade of 
mushrooms, carrots, potato Duchess, sauce 
perigueux. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Belle Helen: Aspara- 
gus, potatoes Brabant, croustade of mush- 
rooms, sauce leie. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Colonial : Virginia ham, 
potato chateau, corn fritter, own gravy. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Doria : Stewed cucum- 
bers, potato balls, paprika sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Royal: Quenelles, truf- 
fles, channeled mushrooms, sauce supreme. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Sevillane : Olives, chipo- 
lata sausage, onion, tomato, pimento, garlic. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Algerienne: Fried to- 
mato, fried egg plant, potato croquette, sauce 
colbert. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Venetienne : Mushrooms, 
potato Parisienne, calf's brain fritter, sauce 
Venetienne. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Marengo : Egg fried in 
olive oil, potato chateau rissolee, mushrooms, 
tomato, olives, shallots, sauce madere. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Elysee : Quenelles, truf- 
fles, cock's comb and kernels, potato, sauce 
supreme. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Le Grand : Quenelles, 
potato spirals, truffle sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Viennoise : Noodles, 
potato with chives, paprika sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Washington : Green 
corn au gratin, Virginia ham, country gravy, 
potato. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Parisienne : Mushrooms, 
asparagus tips, potato Parisienne, sauce su- 
preme. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Richelieu : Julienne of 
onions, celery, carrots and truffles, potato 
chateau. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Victoria: Truffles, foie 
gras, asparagus tips, creamed mushroom 
sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Excelsior: Truffles, que- 
nelles, potato mignon, fried tomato, own 
gravy. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Dixie : Candied yam, 
Virginia ham, rice fritter, country gravy. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Czarina : Truffles, mush- 



rooms, asparagus tips, potato mignon, cream 
gravy. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Knickerbocker: Egg 
plant, strip of bacon, potato croquette, coun- 
try gravy. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Maryland: For "a la 
Maryland," the chicken should be breaded 
in bread crumbs in place of rolling in flour; 
garnish with corn fritter, potato croquette, 
strip of salt pork, cream sauce, toast. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Signora: Breaded, 
asparagus tips, mushrooms, pimentos, Juli- 
enne potatoes, cream sauce. 

Spring Chicken Saute, Anglaise: Breaded, 

small balls of assorted vegetables, ease of 

peas, sauce bechamel. 
Spring Chicken Saute, Neapolitan : Breaded, 

timbal of spaghetti, potato croquette, sauce 

Italienne. 

PORK TENDERLOIN 
"When of a choice grade, pork tenderloins 
form an excellent entree and can be prepared 
numerous different ways. They are commonly 
prepared by trimming and splitting lengthwise, 
leaving the two halves connected. Another man- 
ner of butchering them is cutting and forming 
them in the way a small beef tenderloin is 
prepared. 

FRIED PORK TENDERLOIN, COUNTRY 

STYLE 

Trim the tenderloin of superfluous fat and 
sinews; split it the full length, leaving the 
halves well joined. Spread and flatten well 
with the cleaver, and score the surface across 
the grain. Season with salt and pepper, roll in 
flour, place in a frying pan till cooked well done 
and brown. After removing the tenderloin, 
make a country gravy in the pan in which the 
tenderloin was cooked. Place the tenderloin on 
a hot platter, pour over it the country gravy, 
garnish with a corn fritter and a potato ris- 
solee. 

Pork Tenderloin, Imperial : Same as above. 
Garnish with sweet potatoes cooked in syrup, 
fruit sauce. 

Pork Tenderloin, Bohemienne : Garnish with 
fried apple, sweet potato glace, country 
gravy. 

Pork Tenderloin, Belmont : Braised stuffed 
cabbage, small case of apple sauce, sweet 
potato rissolee. 

Pork Tenderloin, Bavaroise : Red cabbage hot 
slaw, boiled potato, own gravy. 

Pork Tenderloin, Diplomate : White cabbage 
hot slaw, stuffed potato, country gravy. 

Pork Tenderloin, Lamballe: Puree of lentils, 
mashed potatoes, gravy, parsley. 

Pork Tenderloin, Polonaise: Bread crumb and 
milk porridge, corn fritter, potato with chives. 

Pork Tenderloin, Allemande : Sauerkraut, po- 
tatoes Lyonnaise, sage gravy. 



162 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



Pork Tenderloin, Alsacienne: Braised savoy 
cabbage, mashed sweet potatoes, country 
gravy. 
Pork Tenderloin, Sultana : Fried bananas, po- 
tato fondante, port wine sauce. 
Pork Tenderloin, Saxone : Stuffed sweet po- 
tato, stewed prunes, own gTavy. 
Pork Tenderloin, Windsor: Mashed turnips, 
Anglaise potato, country gravy. 

SHORT RIBS OF BEEF 
Short Ribs of Beef when of a good grade 
form a very appetizing, cheap and popular dish 
and can be prepared in a variety of ways. 

Cut the short rib into sections of one rib each. 
Tie each section with roast beef twine. Place 
the sections in a roast pan, the bottom of which 
has been covered with a full assortment of 
sliced vegetables and some mixed spices. Place 
in the oven till nicely browned and cooked. 
Then remove the short ribs, placing them in a 

sauce pan. . 

Proceed to make the brown gravy with the 
roast pan containing the mirepoix of vegetables 
and spices. When this is finished, strain the 
gravy over the short ribs and place them on 
the range to slowly simmer until very well done 
and tender. 

The above forms your basic dish from which 
a variety of dishes can be made. 
Short Ribs of Beef with Special- Baked Potato : 

Place two sections of the prepared short ribs 

on a platter and garnish. 
Short Ribs of Beef with a special baked potato. 
Short Ribs of Beef with potatoes 'Brien. 
Short Ribs of Beef with potatoes au gratin. 
Short Ribs of Beef with corn fritters. 
Short Ribs of Beef with Lyonnaise potatoes. 
Short Ribs of Beef with glazed vegetables. 
Short Ribs of Beef, old-fashioned, with browned 

potato. 
Short Ribs of Beef with Creole sauce, potato 

rissolee. 
Short Ribs of Beef in casserole with fancy vege- 
tables. 
Short Ribs of Beef with Creole sauce, potato 

fondante. 
Short Ribs of Beef, rostbraten, with potato pan- 
cakes. 
Short I »ibs of Beef, pot roast, with noodles au 

gratin. 
Short Ribs of Beef, Spanish Stylo, with stuffed 

green pepper. 
Short Ribs of Beef with bouillon potatoes and 

vegetables, family style. 
Short Ribs of Beef, boiled with horseradish 

sauce, Bermuda potato. 

SWEETBREADS 
Sweetbreads, with a primary preparation that 
varies but little, forms the basis of a long list 
of different named dishes. To prepare sweet- 



breads: first thoroly wash and soak them in 
cold water; then place them on the range to 
"blanch" or " parboil,' ' adding to the water, 
in which they are to be parboiled, some mixed 
spices and vegetables. When thus prepared 
they are ready for any special sweetbread dish 
the chef may choose. 

SWEETBREADS, BRAISE, WITH FRESH 
MUSHROOMS 

Select a portion of the prepared sweetbreads. 
Where the establishment is classy and the prices 
warrant, have them larded by the garde-manger ; 
then passed to the second cook, who places them 
in a sautoir with a mirepoix for braising. A 
sauce may be made from the sautoir in which 
the sweetbreads have been cooked, or a ready 
prepared sauce may be used, as suits the case. 
When braised, place them on a platter with 
bread croutons under ; pour over them the sauce, 
and garnish with the fresh mushrooms and 
sprigs of parsley. 
Sweetbreads, Comtesse : Same as above, garnish 

with haricots verts, French peas, carrots. 

Sweetbreads, Tallyrand : Braised chicory, truf- 
fle sauce, potatoes chateau. 

Sweetbreads, Parisienne : Mushrooms, Parisi- 
enne potatoes, potato croquette, sauce madere. 

Sweetbreads, Rothschild : Stuffed fresh mush- 
rooms, julienne potatoes, sauce bearnaise. 

Sweetbreads, Marie Louise : Puree of celery, 
puree of mushrooms, demi-glace. 

Sweetbreads, Regence : Sifted peas, mushrooms, 
quenelles, potato mignon, sauce supreme. 

Sweetbreads, Toulousaine: Button mushrooms, 
cock's combs and kernels, truffles, quenelles, 
sauce. 

Sweetbreads, Villeroi: Mushrooms, truffles, 
noisette potatoes, sauce villeroi. 

Sweetbreads, Florian : Braised lettuce, olive 
shaped potatoes, demi-glace. 

Sweetbreads, Gastronome : Cepes, fleurons, 
truffles, potato chateau, sauce madere. 

Sweetbreads, Lavaliere: Artichoke bottoms 
filled with asparagus points, potato, sauce 
bordelaise. 

Sweetbreads, Milanaise : Garnish with macaroni 
Milanaise, round potato croquette, sauce 
Colbert. 

Sweetbreads, St. Cloud : Truffles, potato Parisi- 
enne, tomato sauce. 

Sweetbreads, Finanojiere: Quenelles, chicken 
livers, mushrooms, truffles, demi-glace sauce. 

Sweetbreads, Macedoine: Croustade of fancy 
mixed vegetables, chateau potatoes, sauce 
madere. 

Sweetbreads, Theodora : Truffles, mushrooms, 
stuffed olives, pistachio nuts, wine sauce. 

Sweetbreads, Chanceliere: Quenelles, mace- 
doine, potato croquette, sauce supreme. 

Sweetbreads, Marsilly: Green peas, artichokes, 
potato mignon, marsala wine sauce. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



163 



Sweetbreads, Columbus: Pate de fois gras, 
mushrooms, potato croquette, sauce Colbert. 

Sweetbreads, Eugene : Mushrooms, asparagus 
tips, sauce supreme. Serve under glass. 

Sweetbreads, Mac Mahon : Mushrooms, small 
onions, potato chateau. Serve in casserole. 

Sweetbreads, Montebello : Jardiniere of vege- 
tables, potato duchess, sauce Montebello. 

Sweetbreads, Calve: Truffles, sauce financiere, 
potatoes noisette. Serve in cocotte. 

LAMB CHOPS 

Lamb chops are a popular dish with the diner 
and a favorite with the chef. They are adapted 
to a great variety of garnishes. Of the great 
number of lamb chop dishes fundamentally 
they are much alike and the variation is mostly 
limited to the different ways in which they are 
garnished. 

The most common basis of an entree of lamb 
chops consists of two French chops; that is, 
the rib chops, and most frequently they are 
simply seasoned, dusted with flour and sauted 
or fried in a little butter or other fats. The 
breaded chop entree comes next in favor, fol- 
lowed by the stuffed and grilled chop dishes. 
We will begin with the common dish of "Lamb 
chops, Parisienne" as a basis and follow it 
with a number of its variations. 

Lamb Chops, Parisienne : Two French lamb 
chops well seasoned with salt and pepper and 
floured. Saute or fry in butter or other fat. 
When the chops are done place on a hot 
platter and garnish as follows : Parisienne 
potatoes, asparagus tips, sauce bearnaise. A 
crouton of toast and a chop frill for each 
chop, to which a parsley bouquet may be 
added with good effect. 

Lamb Chops, Marchioness: Same as above. 
Garnish : Small bouquet of cauliflower cov- 
ered with a hollandaise or cream sauce, French 
string beans, sauce paloise (supreme sauce 
with mint), toast and frills. 

Lamb Chops, Archduke : Same. Garnish : 
Potato Duchesse, case of macedoine, caper 
sauce, toast and frills. 

Lamb Chops, Regence : Artichoke bottom filled 
with diced carrots in its jus leie; case or 
croustade of French peas, sauce bechamel, 
toast and frills. 

Lamb Chops, Britannia : Fancy cut turnips 
and carrots in separate piles, stringless beans, 
potato English style, caper sauce, toast crou- 
ton and frills. 

Lamb Chops, Princesse : Asparagus points, 
potato Dauphine, sauce supreme, toast, pars- 
ley, frills. 

Lamb Chops, Sicilienne : Timbal of spaghetti, 
potato croquette, sauce demi-glace, toast, 
frills. 

Lamb Chops, Henry IV: Bottom of artichoke 
filled with noisette potatoes, sauce bearnaise, 
bread croutons and frills. 



Lamb Chops, Metropole: Potato croquette, 

stuffed mushroom, cauliflower, sauce reforme, 

toast and frills. 
Lamb Chops, Mascotte: Potatoes chateau, 

flageolets, sauce Hussarde, toast and frills. 
Lamb Chops, Piccadilly : Kidney, bacon, potato 

f ondante or rissole ; drawn butter, croutons. 

Lamb Chops, Pompadour: Flageolet beans, 
scooped carrots, turnips, sauce pompadour, 
frills and toast. 

Lamb Chops, Nubian : Truffle sauce, fresh 
mushrooms, rice croquette, croutons, frills. 

Lamb Chops, a la Minute: (in the sense of 
time, sixty seconds) Sauce madere, case of 
peas, julienne potatoes, toast and frills. 

Lamb Chops, Admiral : Bacon rasher, special 
French fry, sauce Orly, toast and frills. 

Lamb Chops, Cheron: Bottom artichoke filled 
with macedoine, sauce magenta (red bear- 
naise), potatoes mignon. 

Lamb Chops, Arlesienne: Egg plant, fried 
tomato, potato Parisienne, sauce madere, 
toast, frills. 

Lamb Chops, Dubarry: Cauliflower au hol- 
landaise, potato with chopped chives, tomato 
sauce, croutons, frills. 

Lamb Chops, Maison d'Or: These should be 
breaded in beaten eggs and bread crumbs, 
fried. Garnish each chop with a slice of pate 
de fois gras. Potato croquette, bread crou- 
ton, sauce madere, frills. 

Lamb Chops, Villeroi: Breaded and fried, 
sauce soubise, croustade of peas, lattice po- 
tatoes. 

Lamb Chops, Milanaise : Breaded, fried, to- 
mato sauce, garnish with macaroni a la 
Milanaise. 

Lamb Chops, Brisse: Breaded, fried, sauce 
bechamel, mashed turnips, caper sauce, potato 
with parsley, frills, croutons. 

Lamb Chops, Nelson : These are stuffed. The 
chops are sauted in fat, cooked on one side 
only and stuffed on the cooked side. For 
chops a la Nelson : stuff with Soubise, after 
which finish cooking in the oven. Garnish 
with a case of peas, potatoes noisette, crou- 
tons and frills. 

Lamb Chops, Murillo : Stuffed with a filling of 
finely chopped mushrooms and cooked au 
gratin with parmesan cheese. Dish up with 
croutons, demi-glace sauce, frills and parsley. 

Lamb Chops, Maintenon: Sauted and stuffed 
on both sides with a soubise, to which fine 
herbs have been added ; bread in bread crumbs 
and grated parmesan cheese ; garnish with 
fried tomato, Parisienne potatoes, sauce Col- 
bert, frills. 

Lamb Chops, Marechale: Sauted and stuffed 
on both sides with a fine herb filling. Bread 
them, then butter and finish in oven; truffle 
sauce, rice croustades, frills. 



164 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



Lamb Chops, Bruxelloise: Breaded and fried; 

sauce Colbert; garnish with brussels sprouts, 

round potato croquettes, bread croutons and 

frills. 
Lamb Chops, Tavern Style: Plain broil the 

chops; garnish with kidney, small French 

fried potatoes, hot butter sauce, toast and 

frills. 
Lamb Chops, Delmonico: Stuff with chicken 

farce, quenelles, truffle sauce, potato Verdi, 

croutons, frills. 

TENDERLOIN ENTREES 

The small tenderloin, or "filet mignon" as 
it is so often named, is a top-liner staple, and 
the different ways in which it is served are 
legion. The foundation of the dish is a small 
tenderloin ranging in weight from about four 
to eight ounces. In the great majority of cases 
the tenderloin is sauted or fried ; but it can be, 
and often is, broiled. " Tournadoes, ' ' so often 
seen on the bill of fare, is the same thing, it 
being the French equivalent to ' ' mignon. ' ' So, 
also, is "Noisettes," the only difference being 
that noisettes are cut much lighter. ' ' Mignon ' ' 
translated into English is ' small," probably 
from the same root as our own "minute" in 
the sense of quantity. 

In cutting the tenderloin, its size should be 
regulated by circumstances. In this, financial 
considerations, of course, rule.. A six-ounce 
steak, listed to sell at, say, seventy-five cents, 
is probably the prevailing combination ; but you 
must adjust yourself to values of the tenderloin 
and the garnish to be used. 

TENDERLOIN MIGNON, BAYARD 

Cut a small tenderloin of about six ounces in 
weight; beat to an even round form by wrap- 
ping in a towel and beating with a cleaver. 
Season with salt and pepper. Place it in a 
smoking hot pan to saute. Have a round crou- 
ton of bread, cut to fit the tenderloin, toasted 
or fried. Place this crouton on the platter and 
upon it place the tenderloin when cooked. Gar- 
nish with a julienne of truffles and tongue au 
demi-glace. Place a slice of pate de foie gras 
on top of the filet and a stuffed mushroom at 
both ends. 

Tenderloin, Duchess: Small tenderloin as above. 
Place on crouton, garnish with potato duchess, 
asparagus tips, st»uce demi-glace, parsley bou- 
quet. 
Tenderloin, Montmorency: Same. Garnish 
with artichoke, green peas, potato chateau, 
sauce madere. 

Tenderloin, Richelieu: Stuffed tomato, stuffed 
fresh mushroom, potato croquette, madere. 

Tenderloin, Stanley: French fried onions, fried 
banana, marble potatoes, horseradish sauce, 
and espagnole or brown sauce. 

Tenderloin, Louisanne: Pimento Parei, mush- 
rooms, sweel potato rissole, sauce Colbert. 

Tenderloin 1 , Masseaa: Artichoke filled with 



poached marrow; potato point neuf, sauce 
bordelaise. 

Tenderloin, Fedora: Slice of ham cut round 
to fit the toast; place filet on top; sauce bor- 
delaise with marrow, potato croquette. 

Tenderloin, Reforme: Jardiniere, braised let- 
tuce, potato noisette, truffle sauce. 

Tenderloin, Princesse: Tomato princesse, arti- 
choke, potato Parisienne, sauce bearnaise. 

Tenderloin, Modem : Stuffed tomato, asparagus 
tips, cauliflower, potato, sauce Espagnole. 

Tenderloin, Bercy : Cepes, sausage, potato Bra- 
bant, marrow, demi-glace. 

Tenderloin, Judic : Braised lettuce, quenelles, 
potatoes mignon, brown sauce. 

Tenderloin, Epicurienne : Mushrooms, truffles, 
pate de foie gras, potato, sauce. 

Tenderloin, Monaco: Slice of ham, calf's 
brains, potatoes Anna, Julienne of truffles 
and mushrooms, sauce madere. 

Tenderloin, Empire: Stuffed artichoke, potato 
Suzette, flageolets, mushroom sauce. 

Tenderloin, Delmonico : Stuff filet with chicken 
farce; quenelles, potato Verdi, sauce peri- 
gueux. 

Tenderloin, Dauphine: Potato Dauphine and 
assorted new vegetables, sauce demi-glace. 

Tenderloin, Patricia : Stuffed egg, season salad 
in case, red bearnaise sauce. 

Tenderloin, Mazarin : Artichoke, haricots verts, 
potato mignon, sauce magenta. 

Tenderloin, Seminole : Stuffed green pepper, 
asparagus points, potato rissolee, sauce ma- 
dere. 

Tenderloin, Cafe Riche : Stuffed tomato, Pari- 
sienne potato, truffle sauce. 

Tenderloin, Melba: Stuffed tomato, braised 
lettuce, potato croquette, sauce perigueux. 

Tenderloin, Lucullus: Truffles, sweetbreads, 
cock's combs and kernels, potato Duchess, 
demi-glace. 

Tenderloin, Andalouse: Egg plant, tomato, 
onion, potato, sauce madere. 

Tenderloin, Godard : Mushrooms, quenelles, 
truffles, sweetbreads, olives, sauce madere. 

Tenderloin, Cheron : Artichoke, macedoine, po- 
tato croquette, sauce madere. 

Tenderloin, Victorine : Chicken quenelle, stuffed 
mushroom, tomato sauce, potato, demi-glace. 

Tenderloin, Valencay: Timbal of noodles, po- 
tato croquette, Chateaubriand sauce. 

Tenderloin, Menagere: Carrots, turnips, braised 
stuffed cabbage, potato, horseradish sauce. 

Tenderloin, Provenc'ale: Broiled tomatoes, po- 
tatoes chateau, sauce chasseur. 

Tenderloin, Montebello: Artichokes, tniffles, 
potatoes Parisienne, sauce bearnaise. 

Tenderloin, Peruvienne: Stuffed red pepper, 
potato croquette, sauce perigueux. 

Tenderloin, Pompadour: Quartered artichokes, 
slices of truffle, Parisienne potato rissole, 
sauce bearnaise tomatee. 

Tenderloin, Chasseur: Fresh mushrooms, po- 
tato chateau, rissolee, sauce chasseur. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



165 



TEA BREWED IN PITCHERS 

The tea-pot* is a habit. 

To brew tea it is not necessary to use the con- 
ventional tea-pot. 

There are simpler, and, in many respects, more 
sanitary ways of making tea than by the use 
of the tea-pot. 

For instance, make it in a china pitcher. 

Let the infusion be by means of a tea-con- 
tainer, or loosely filled tea-ball, or almost any 
convenient way of steeping. 

Let the tea-leaves be in the water not to 
exceed four minutes. 

The pitcher should have a lid, and the tea- 
container a cord, or chain, or some lifting de- 
vice for agitating occasionally in the water 
during the time of the brew. 

Brew reasonably strong for a mixed com- 
pany, and serve a pitcher of hot water to ac- 
company, so that the tea may be diluted to suit 
individual tastes. 

An egg-cup may be conveniently served on 
the tea-set tray for the purpose of holding the 
tea-container before and after the brew. 

Tea made this way is good to keep for use 
afterward as cold tea. 

One great advantage of serving hot tea this 
way is that the vessel it is made in can be 
more easily kept clean. There are no tea-pot 
spouts to clean out, no dark places to hide 
unsanitary conditions. 

But few people drink milk or cream with 
tea ; it is better without. Some prefer a slice 
of lemon; some like a little sugar; but it is best 
to take tea without milk, or sugar, or lemon. 

Lemon kills the bouquet of tea. 

Reasons why this method of brewing and 
serving tea is advocated, are : 

It is more economical and more sanitary. Tea 
can be steeped in just boiling water for four 
minutes without liberating the poisonous tannin 
in the leaves. Infusion not to exceed the four- 
minute period assures the delightful fragrance 
of the tea, and the most wholesome of all 
beverages. 

Tea when properly made, in particular black 
tea brewed to a medium strength, or weak, 
is stimulating, harmless, and, in a sense, pro- 
motes digestion. 

The economy of tea as a beverage is exem- 
plified in the fact that one hundred cups can 
be made from a pound of tea. 

In making tea there should be just as much 
pains taken for measuring the portion as with 
coffee or other beverages. A quarter of an 
ounce should make, approximately, a pint of 
tea. An ounce should make half a gallon of 
reasonable strength. 

There is no reason, other than custom, for 
brewing tea in the conventional tea-pot. 

There is good reason for discarding the tea- 
pot, in that lovers of tea — those who want the 



second cup to be as good as the first — can have 
it to their liking when brewed in a pitcher, as 
above described, and free of the tannin poison 
that results and spoils from the over-long in- 
fusion. 

The cozy that some people use to cover the 
tea-pot to keep the brewing tea hot for a long 
time (and thereby extracting the tannin poison 
out of the tea leaves before the last pouring) 
can cover the pitchers' service to good advan- 
tage. 

* * * 

Before printing the above article, we called 
on Fred Muller, steward of The Blackstone, to 
get from him figures as to weight for portion, 
quart and gallon brews, and to ask his opinion 
regarding the tea-pitcher idea, this latter for 
the reason that The Blackstone Grill tea service 
has always been of the pitcher type ; two pitch- 
ers used in the service ; one carrying a porcelain 
percolator; the other for hot water, and both 
similar to the illustration herewith. 




*The tcord tea-pot in this article refers to the con- 
ventional sicell bodied type icith spout. 



When Mr. Muller was told of the idea for 
the new brew, he reached for some papers 
pigeonholed in his desk, and showed this idea 
already expressed in a new method of brewing 
coffee and tea with special devices, for which 
he has applied for letters patent. 

Mr. Muller explained the regulation method 
of coffee making, in particular as in The Black- 
stone, and how his new device will brew coffee 
to perfection, and more economically than the 
customary methods of The Blackstone and other 
houses. 

With his method there will be a uniform con- 
sistency of brew, and uniform bouquet, both 
for coffee and tea. These beverages, he said, 
are most sensitive to change in the brew, espe- 
cially when the coffee grains or tea leaves may 
be moved even temporarily from the hot water 
and reimmersed — a chemical change takes place 
that deteriorates the beverages. 

His tea-container is superior to the conven- 
tional tea-ball, and we believe will serve the 
purpose admirably for tea-container for the 
pitcher brew. 

In the matter of portions, Mr. Muller said 
that one pound of tea makes from 75 to 85 
single portions, according to the kind of tea 






166 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



used, some requiring a trifle larger portion than 
others. So, basing Mr. Muller's figures on our 
estimate, we find they are not far apart. There 
is no hard and fast rule that can be depended 
upon. It is a matter of individual judgment 
in the brew. 



THE INTERMEZZO DINNER 



Fenton M. Johnson, manager Hotel Wiscon- 
sin, Milwaukee : ' ' The fortunes of the Wiscon- 
sin have taken the good turn that I hoped for 
when I took the management. The hotel is now 
prospering, both rooms and restaurant doing 
good business. My policy has been to deliver 
satisfactory service at reasonable prices; in 
other words, to give value received and full 
measure. The rooms average ninety per cent 
full." 

[To a question regarding his jumping the 
traces in the matter of catering — referring in 
particular to the seventy-five cent Intermezzo 
dinner served from six to eight p. m.] 

"The seventy-five cent Intermezzo dinner has 
become very popular. Here is a typical menu. 

Celery Olives 

Fresh crabmeat cocktail 

Roast Watertown duck 

Baked apple 

June peas 

Whipped potatoes 

Waldorf salad 

Banana mousse 

Assorted cakes 

Coffee 

You observe it is free of soup, fish, and some 
other items generally to be found on the table 
d'hote menu. It is my belief that the many 
courses are not necessary nor desired. I put 
myself in the position of the restaurant patron. 
The a la carte bill, with its great variety, em- 
barrasses the man who is ordering from it. If 
he would order generously, the check amounts 
to a big sum. If he orders such as the average 
banquet or table d'hote calls for, it amounts to 
a big sum. If he orders only one dish with 
something to drink he has practically no variety 
in the way of vegetables or dessert, and then each 
additional item adds considerably to the amount 
of the check. 

"The average diner has the average appetite, 
and he wants to eat a meal to fit that appetite. 
But very few want the soup or fish that cus- 
tomarily come with the average table d'hote 
dinner before the meat dish. Practically all 
want the substantial meat dish. It is for this 
reason that the Intermezzo dinner is provided — 
to give the greatest amount of satisfaction to the 
largest number of people at a price that most 
can afford to pay, consistent with receiving 
generous portions and good service. 

"It is my belief that a menu, as typified in 
this Intermezzo dinner, gives general satisfac- 



tion. In fact, it has so demonstrated in our 
hotel. The menu is changed every day, of 
course. In this one, with the 'fresh crabmeat 
cocktail' for a starter the dish is served in 
glass, and of the same generous portion and 
quality as customary for an a la carte order. 
It is the same with the l roast Watertown duck' 
and the vegetables. They come on to please 
the eye as well as the palate. It is the same 
with the dessert. The ice cream, for instance, 
is in fancy forms and as dainty as it can be 
served. 

I do not see why this type of catering is not 
more generally adopted. True it is a hard matter 
to overcome established customs in the catering 
line. The cooks and waiters impress their fixed 
ideas upon the kind of service, and it is difficult 
for even the management to compel new methods. 

"Another thing is the idea of French on the 
menu cards. This is gradually disappearing, 
but it has held on tenaciously. It is my belief 
that the average patron wants the dish printed on 
the menu with its understandable English name, 
and no matter what the French advocates may 
say as to the impossibility of doing this, I find 
it is practicable to do so and to abolish the 
French. 

' ' I read in The Hotel Monthly some months 
ago, in one of Mr. Rivers' articles, about a dish 
that he listed on the bill of fare with its French 
name ; that so presented it had a very poor sale ; 
and of his serving this same dish the next day 
under its English name, and there was quite a 
demand for it. I believe this to be so. People 
order what they know they will relish, and they 
cannot do this when they order a dish the com- 
position of which they are ignorant of. 

"You ask me about cost accounting. Yes, I 
have expressed myself forcefully on this sub- 
ject. I believe the agitation so vigorously pushed 
for it at the different hotel conventions is mis- 
leading. They seem to have the cart before the 
horse. There can be no uniform system of cost 
accounting in the hotel business until the cook 
books are standardized, and a great many other 
things, impossible of happening, are standard- 
ized. Before there can be any cost accounting 
worth while, there must first be determined the 
proportion of cost allotted to the different de- 
partments, and this is not alike in any two 
hotels. Cost accounting that deals onty with 
the difference between the cost of raw material 
and the price received for the manufactured 
article, without due consideration of all the 
intermediary costs, is of very little use to the 
management. The great item of information 
desired is the cost of operation, plus cost of raw 
materials, and the net profit after all expenses 
have been accounted for." 



It is the refrigerated ventilation of public 
rooms that makes so many modern hotels the 
oasis of the cities in which they are located; the 
looms being the cool spot in town. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



167 



The High Cost of Service 

The profits of a hotel dining room are not 
determined so much from the difference between 
cost of raw material and the receipts at the 
cashier's desk, as they are from the cost of 
service between the time of purchase of the 
raw material and its sale to the patron. 

The cost of service is most often spoken of 
as "the overhead," the expense to which the 
hotel is put in the storing, preparing and serv- 
ing of foods. The cost accounting man will 
say that the raw coffee for a single portion 
will cost approximately a penny, and that a 
portion pot of coffee sells for fifteen cents. 
That penny cost is insignificant compared with 
the other costs in the overhead, which may be, 
and often are, so great as to make the serving 
of a pot of coffee at 15 cents a losing trans- 
action for the hotelkeeper. 

The overhead cost is appreciated in a few of 
the items, as fuel and wages; but is spread 
over a multitude of items, most of them in- 
finitesimal, but, in the aggregate, much greater 
than commonly supposed. Here are a few of 
the items that enter into the cost of most every 
meal: rent, light, heat, refrigeration, laundry, 
condiments, sauces, garnishings, spoilage, break- 



age, depreciation, supervision, furniture, table 
wares, napery, betterments, dishwashing, floor 
scrubbing, accounting, decorations, printing, ad- 
vertising, fuel, wages, uniforms, etc., etc., these 
in many cases supplemented with music, flowers 
and other accessories. 

The more elaborate the service, the greater 
the overhead. 



A chef who is at the top of his profession, 
commenting on many of the messy preparations 
designated with an "a la," and that really spoil 
good food which the a la's are supposed to gar- 
nish or give zest to, said : "The demand for these 
outlandish dishes comes from crazy people who 
want something new. Some of the dishes that 
are called for after the theatre by alleged epi- 
cures consist of fool combinations that we chefs 
would consider it ridiculous to serve, if not called 
for." The best foods, he said, are those so pre- 
pared as to give the natural flavor, and need no 
disguise or aid of incongruous concoctions to 
please the palate. 



The economic value of a cost accounting system 
is often spoiled by excessive effort to make a 
favorable showing thru percentage figures. 




KITCHEN OF THE LAMER, SALINA, KAS. 

The kitchen is a show room of the hotel. It' It also has the customary mechanical devices, as 
has cement floor, washable walls and is furnished dishwashing machine, cubers, etc. The cold stor- 
entire with Zahner ranges, broilers and utensils. age features are admirable. 



168 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



MILK, CREAM, BUTTER, CHEESE, OLEOMAR- 
GARINE, BUTTERINE, ICE CREAM 



At the March (1914) meeting of the Chicago 
Stewards' association, H. McCormack, professor of 
chemical engineering at Armour Institute of Tech- 
nology, gave a talk on milk, cream, butter, cheese, 
oleomargarine, butterine, and ice cream, and told 
of some of the wonderful changes in dairying in- 
dustries since the invention of the Babcock milk 
tester by Professor Babcock of the University of 
"Wisconsin; and stated that while this invention 
has benefited the dairy industry millions of dol- 
lars, Professor Babcock had received no pecuniary 
benefit, but is still a salaried professor at the 

University of Wisconsin. 

* * * 

Before the invention of the Babcock tester, milk 
was sold by weight, without regard to the percent- 
age of butter fat. Now all milk bought by the 
creameries is on the butter fat test, which varies, 
according to the milk, all the way from 2%, to 9 
per cent. This encourages the dairyman to have 
his herd of cows of the kind that give milk richest 
in butter fat. 

Milk is composed of three main parts, butter 
fat, casein, and moisture. Most of the milk that 
comes to market has already been thru a separator, 
reduced to skim milk, and cream, then these con- 
stituents remixed to a constant butter fat content, 
as three and a half per cent, or the particular pro- 
portion determined by the different city ordi- 
nances. This, where the milk runs over three and 
a half per cent (if that is the standard), leaves 
extra cream for the creameries to make butter 
from, and gives them a butter output. 

The separation feature has good effect, taking 
the dirt out of the milk; so the milk that comes 
to market with a definite fixed percentage of but- 
ter fat is more likely to be pure milk than milk 
which has not been through a separator. Most of 
the creameries pasteurize milk, especially for the 
long shipments of sweet milk, and milk sold in 

bottles. 

* * * 

Condensed milk is milk from which much of the 
moisture lias been evaporated, and is in two forms, 
sweetened and unsweetened. In preparing this 
great care is taken in the heating process, so the 
milk will not have a cooked taste. 

* * * 

Milk powder is obtained by spraying milk into 
a heated chamber, drawing off the moisture, and 
arresting the powdered milk by means of baffle 
boards. Milk used for the production of milk 
powder must be as clean milk as milk used for any 
other purpose. Some manufacturers have over- 
looked this and have therefore had an unsatisfac- 



tory product. It should be particularly free from 
putrefactive bacteria, as the heat during drying 
is not sufficient to sterilize. Therefore when the 
milk powder is dissolved in water the bacteria 

grow and injure the product. 

* * * 

Professor McCormack devoted considerable time 
to his talk on Cheese, explaining the fermentive 
processes and how these processes are the result 
of certain kinds of bacteria. He told of the effect 
of the presence of different bacteria on finished 
cheeses, and how one kind is innoculated with an- 
other to obtain certain desired results; and that 
the flavor of cheese is due primarily to bacterial 
action during the ripening of the cheese. 

The U. S. department of agriculture has main- 
tained an experiment station at the University of 
Wisconsin for the past eight years, which has con- 
ducted many experiments on the processes, bac- 
terial and other, which are involved in the ripen- 
ing of a cheese. Many of their results have been 

of great value to the industry. 

* * * 

Butter consists of moisture, salt, fat and casein. 
Butter that has become rancid may be processed, 
and its sweetness restored. Professor McCormack 
told of an incident in a city store where he saw a 
sign "Renovated Butter," indicating that it was 
superior butter, to those not familiar with the fact 

that it was inferior or rancid butter made over. 

* * * 

He told of the methods of the manufacture of 
oleomargarine and butterine by the addition of 
fats other than butter fat, and said that these 
products, as generally made, are quite superior 
to eighty per cent of the butter that is marketed. 
He endorsed the care taken in the manufacture 
of oleomargarine and butterine that makes these 
products first class. It is the farmer vote largely 
that handicaps the greater use of these products 
by special tax and compulsory exhibition of an- 
nouncement cards in places where they are sold 
and in public dining rooms where they are served. 

In the chemist's test to determine between but- 
ter and butterine and oleomargarine, he has to 
rely largely on the absence of volatile fatty acid 
from products other than butter; but some smart 
people even add these to confuse the chemist. 

The quickest, and possibly the best way to test 
is by observing the crystalline structure under 

polarized light. 

* * * 

Much of the ice cream that is marketed will not 
melt. The public wants that kind. It must stand 
up. Ice cream made only from cream, flavoring 
material and sugar melts too soon. Even that 
made with cornstarch and gelatine is tabooed by 
the public, so Mr. Manufacturer uses the cheaper 
gums, as gum arabic and tragacanth, the latter 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



169 



so dense that two per cent of it mixed with water 
will make a jelly-like mass; and it is somewhat 
difficult for the chemist to detect if the gum in- 
gredient is gelatine, gum arabic or tragacanth. 

Considerable ice cream is made with skim milk 
with added butter fat, or other fat as from cot- 
tonseed oil, these fats mixed with the skim milk 
to an emulsion and then frozen. In the flavoring 
they use almost altogether the synthetic flavoring 
materials instead of the actual fruit flavors. 



Why Lettuce Loses Crispness and Beans Won't 

Pop 

A subscriber writes from Philadelphia : 
' ' Can you give me a good reason why lettuce, 
radishes and celery lose their crispness in the re- 
frigerator ? I have failed to find any satisfactory 
answer. Also what are the proper green vege- 
tables to keep in the refrigerator — uncooked of 
course, I mean? 

"Can you tell me how to pop navy beans? I 

heard they could be popped as pop corn. ' ' 

* * * 

The letter was submitted to a practical hotel 
steward, and this is his reply: 

"I have made inquiries as to the navy beans. 
So far found no one who has ever heard that 
they could be popped; and I do not believe that 
it is possible, as the construction of a bean is dif- 
ferent from corn. Corn must be thoroughly- dry 
and placed over quick heat to make it pop. In that 
condition the navy bean would burn up ; and if you 
moisten the bean and take the skin off there is 
nothing to hold it together in case it would pop. 
The idea must have originated from the thought 
of puffed rice and puffed wheat, not popped, but 
inflated; but even in that case I could not give 
you any satisfactory information. 

' ' As to keeping fresh vegetables, will say that 
the lettuce or any vegetable will lose its crisp- 
ness when taken out of a very cold refrigerator 
in the warm air. I have found that fresh vege- 
tables, such as lettuce, celery, and anything in 
that line that may be served, will keep best in a 
temperature of not less than 55 degrees, and when 
taken out of the refrigerator into the warm air, 
it is good to place a wet cloth and some small 
cracked ice upon the vegetables and keep it there 
until they are set upon the table. There are really 
no sorts of vegetables that would keep their fresh- 
ness long, and they are seldom of the same qual- 
ity when taken out of the refrigerator; usually 
very cold and dry, for the reason just explained." 



Many a case of ptomaine poisoning comes from 
eating canned foods that have laid for hours in 
the can after it has been opened. As a precau- 
tionary measure canned foods should be removed 
from the can so soon as opened. 



Is It Cole Slaw, Cold Slaw or Kohl Slaw? 

Editor The Hotel Monthly: 

I was interested in your little discussion in the 
August (1905) Hotel Monthly on Cole Slaw and 
Cold Slaw. While I have never discussed the 
name of the dish with chefs or stewards, when- 
ever and wherever I have seen the term used I have 
believed it wrong. To my mind there is nothing 
about the dish to warrant either of these terms, 
as a cold salad of cabbage has no more warrant 
for being described as "cold" than any other 
cold salad. The fact that all the authorities you 
quote used either cole or cold, shows simply how 
a wrong word once in use clings like a burdock to 
a boy's trousers, and that few authors inquire 
into the etymology of the terms they use. In this 
case there is ample apology for the English and 
French authors not questioning the term, for the 
origin of many culinary terms is so lost as to be 
irrevocable, and we take the often absurd names 
as we find them — at their face value, without doubt 
or inquiry; but I am surprised that some German 
author has not stumbled onto the idea as to where 
this ' ' cole " or " cold ' ' came from. 

Now, Mr. Editor, it you will look into the K's 
in your Standard Dictionary, you will find: 

Kohlrabi — a variety of cabbage (Brassica 
oleracea, var. caulo-rapa) , with an edible turnip- 
shaped stem; turnip-cabbage. 

This is not all the definition, but enough for 
our purpose. The term is pronounced in German 
ordinarily, about as if spelled colerawbee. 

INTow as to the ' ' slaw ' ' part of the term. You 
know Mark Twain, writing in his ' ' Tramps 
Abroad" of the intricacies, inconsistencies and 
curiosities of the German language, dwells par- 
ticularly on the dozen different meanings of zug 
and schlag, armed with which two words he says 
any tyro can carry on conversation in German. 
Whenever he gets stuck, all he needs to do is to 
heave in a schlag or zug, and if that doesn't lift 
him out, he should emphatically say allso, which 
universal pivot in the German takes the place of 
our ' ' well, ' ' and Mark gives that as a sovereign 
remedy for any German language trouble. 

Now ' ' slaw ' ' has its root in ' ' schlag, ' ' which 
the Dutch or Hollander makes slaa. One of the 
meanings of schlag is " to hit ' ' or hammer, to cut 
with a heavy knife. Thus kohl-schlag would be 
the natural term for cabbage cut in this manner, 
a literal translation of which would be "cabbage- 
cut. ' ' 

Our culinary language is full of corrupted words 
caused by the ignorance not only of French, Ger- 
man and English cooks and stewards of the spell- 
ing and pronunciation of their native language, 
but total ignorance of the other languages with 
which they come in contact through their fellow- 



170 



GLEAXIXGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



•workmen. Now, for instance, we will imagine a 
German chef and an American steward making up 
a bill of fare. They get down to where the cold 
things or salads come in. "Poot down kohlschlag, ' ' 
says Otto. ' - Cold slaw ! ' ' answers Brown, the 
steward. "What is it and how do you spell it?" 
' ' Dot is dis kebbige, " answers Otto. Brown knows 
it won't do to call it cut or sliced cabbage or cab- 
bage salad in cold type, so he spells : i ' C-o-l-e 
s-l-a-w — is that all right ? ' ' Otto, ignorant of Eng- 
lish spelling and judging by the sound, says: "Oh, 
I gess so; yes." Brown has learned the name of 
a new dish, not knowing whether it is French, 
German or Bohemian, and Otto rests calmly in the 
belief that kohl-schlag has been transplanted and 
translated to the American menu, and — presto — 
a new culinary term is born. Literature in every 
industrial field is full of such curious translations. 
Xow the celebrated authorities on "cold slaw" 
and ' ' cole slaw ' ' from Johnson and Webster down 
to Janet McKenzie Hill and Fellows can turn up 
their noses at the cabbage smell of the above, 
but if they can knock out kohl-schlag as effectu- 
ally as I have their term, I'll eat a peck of kohl- 
schlag and have a night-mare and dream again ! 

Henry J. Bohn. 

[In the letter accompanying the manuscript Mr. 
Bohn adds: "I might add that as Germans are 
great cabbage consumers prepared hot, the distinc- 
tion 'lalt (cold) selling' may have arisen — a cold 
cut-schlag — distinguished from warm or hot cab- 
bage dishes. ' ' — Ed.] 



Clean Out the Teapot Spouts 

An inspector for one of the big dining-car sys- 
tems said : ' ' Our silver always looks clean. It is 
so for the reason that we use sal soda in the water 
for washing the silver, and we finish it with a 
little dry polish applied with a wool cloth. . . . 
It requires constant watchfulness to have the tea 
and coffee pots properly cleaned. It is a matter 
so often neglected unless the washing is insisted 
upon after each service. I find the spouts are 
most often neglected. If you run a wire with a 
piece of cloth down the spouts of tea and coffee 
pots, even in some first-class hotels, it is apt to 
bring out a slimy sediment that has no business 
to be there. It is impossible to brew a good cup 
of tea or coffee unless the pots are clean and sweet 
on the inside. 



Butter Service 
Prom description of Bote! Adelphia, Philadel- 
phia: The butter service is a novelty. The but- 
ter is received in h;df-pouud blocks, scored into 
pats, and these puts are cut with hot knife along 
scoring lines when needed for service. Each pat 
has the letter A stamped on it. 



Special Bread-Cutting Board 

Near the dining room door (Hotel Bentley, Alex- 
andria, La.) is a bread-cutting department which 
is different from anything we have heretofore seen. 
It is in form of a bench on wdrich is the bread 
board. The bread is sliced and trimmed, and the 
board then pulled out (slide) and the trimmings 
scraped off into a receptacle which stands under- 
neath, and which is protected from the outside by 
a wire screen. Over the cutting bench is a shelf 
for storing the different kinds of bread for the cut- 
ter 's immediate use. 



Warming Oven-Hot Plate for Banquets 

A clever device of Chef Nothelfer (Hotel Sin- 
ton, Cincinnati) is a combination warming oven 
and hot plate for banquet service. The oven is 
built of galvanized iron and stands a little higher 
than the average table. It measures about three 
feet wide by eight feet long. Directly under its 
top is a steam coil for the hot plate table top, and 
for the warming oven. For use in this warmer 
the chef has about thirty pans built of four X 
tin, measuring about eighteen inches wide by 
twenty-six inches long by six inches deep. Each 
of these tins has a flange around the outside about 
one inch from the bottom, and they are so built 
that one tin sets into another, the flange forming 
the support. This gives a depth of five inches for 
the hot foods in each of the pans. The top pan of 
all is covered. When the food is dished from the 
main kitchen into these pans, they are piled one 
on the other and placed on a rubber-tired food- 
truck, wheeled to the elevator, and lifted to the 
serving pantry next to the banquet room, whence 
they are put into the warming oven. This oven is 
provided with sliding doors and is without shelves, 
so that the pans can be quickly put in and taken 
out. For the soup and other service there are long 
tables in the pantry where the dishes of the differ- 
ent courses are set for the waiters to pick them 
up quickly. The soup is dished into the plates on 
these tables. 



A cheerful disposition is a valuable asset. 



Don't hitch the small portion to the big price. 



Folderol in cooking is like the inside of a drum 
— nothing to it. 



Be sparing of spices. A very little in the con- 
diment line goes a long ways with the rational 
eater. 



Advice to the young steward: Master the 
economies before studying the extravagances in 
catering. 



The entire vegetable kingdom is calling upon 
the cooks to give it a better show in the com- 
petition with meats for human food. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



171 



MECHANICAL REFRIGERATION IN SMALL 
PLANTS 



Extracts from a paper read by Mr. Guy Bates, 

of the Dairy and Confectionery Refrigeration 
Co., before the Retail Confectioners' Pro- 
tective Association of New Tori: 

* * * Until the latter part of the last 
century, very little was known of any freezing 
agency, other than ice. In Germany, Gotefried 
Behrend was experimenting with cold air plants 
for breweries, about 1867, but the results of his 
investigations did not come into practice till the 
end of the century. At this time we began to 
realize the enormous waste and cost of ice in 
freezing and to seek some means of lessening 
it. Accordingly, we made a study of the proper- 
ties of ice and its relation to the body to be 
cooled, in order to replace it with some less ex- 
pensive medium. 

Now, the process of cooling is the transfer of 
heat from one body to another. When a warm 
plate is set on a piece of ice, the heat of the 
plate is absorbed by the ice. The ice melts and 
the plate grows cold. If we place a thermom- 
eter on the cake of ice, it may register 32 
degrees F. ; or on the hot plate, and it may show 
a temperature of 150 F. Both of the tempera- 
tures show a sensible heat, or the heat you can 
feel. But the heat which passes from the plate 
to the ice, causing it to melt, is the heat you 
cannot feel. This is called latent heat. A ther- 
mometer laid on a cake of ice will register 32 
degrees, and the thermometer placed in the 
water of melted ice will also register 32 de- 
grees F. Yet we know by experiment that we 
have given to the ice 142 heat units per pound, 
or it would not have melted. These heat units, 
called British Thermal Units, or B. T. Us. each 
represent the amount of heat required to raise 
one pound of water one degree F. Now, these 
142 B. T. Us. which the thermometer could not 
register represent the latent heat of liquefac- 
tion. Xow, if we wish to proceed further and 
turn this water into steam, we will have to add 
192 units of sensible heat before the water will 
reach the boiling point of 212 F., and then 966 
B. T. Us., in order to make steam. These 966 
B. T. Us. are in the latent heat of vaporization. 
All other fluids, like water, will absorb a certain 
amount of heat before they change from liquid 
to gas. This amount is normally fixed for each 
kind of fluid, and can only be changed by apply- 
ing pressure to the surface of the liquid. 

Now, turn back to the problem of refrigera- 
tion. We had to find a liquid which would 
change into vapor at such a low boiling point 
that it could absorb heat at the necessary tem- 
peratures. Experiments were made with ether, 



ethyl chloride, sulphur dioxide, carbonic acid, 
several mixed fluids, and ammonia. As it was 
found that ammonia turned into gas at 28 de- 
grees below zero F. at atmospheric pressure, 
and the amount of heat absorbed could be reg- 
ulated easily by low pressure, ammonia was 
chosen as the most effective refrigerating me- 
dium. Ammonia is a pungent gas, which is the 
product of the destructive distillation of coal, 
wood and animal matter. It dissolves readily 
in water, forming the household ammonia gen- 
erally used. The ammonia of refrigeration is 
anhydrous, or free from water. 

When the refrigerating medium was found, 
the next step was the invention of a system in 
which liquid ammonia could be changed into gas 
by absorbing the heat from the air. But be- 
cause ammonia is expensive and can not be al- 
lowed to escape, and also because a large amount 
of ammonia in the air is injurious to human 
life, some means of saving the gas is necessary. 
So we find two divisions to every refrigerating 
machine, the one to change the liquid to gas, the 
other to change the gas back to a liquid. 

Where ammonia is the refrigerant there are 

two systems. The absorption and the compres- 
sion. 

The compression system consists of a com- 
pressor of either horizontal or vertical type, a 
condenser where the compressed gas is liquefied, 
a receiver to hold the liquid until it is again 
expanded into a gas, and the expansion coils 

where the change from liquid to the gas takes 
place. 

The absorption system is built on the same 
general i^lan, except that instead of a compres- 
sor, a receiver partly filled with water draws 
the ammonia gas through the expansion coils. 
The affinity of water for ammonia is very great. 
When this water has absorbed all the ammonia 
possible, the strong ammonia water is pumped 
into a generator which is heated. The ammonia 
gas is driven out of the water by the heat, and 
the gas flows into the condenser, just as the 
compressed gas goes from the discharge of the 
compressor in the other system. 

Owing to the many disadvantages caused by 
the necessity of drawing off the water, and also 
because no absorption plant pays, on a small 
scale, we will omit further details, and go back 
to the compression plant. 

In the compression plant we find four parts: 
1, the expansion coils; 2, the compressor; 3, the 
condenser; 4, the receiver of liquid ammonia. 
The expansion coils are spoken of as the low 
pressure or back pressure side, while the con- 
denser and receiver are on the high pressure or 
head pressure side. 

It is in the expansion coils that the ammonia 



172 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 




"Ro • Z- -Oar-bag© • C£fR_,i<3aR_ATOi^ 



4-|yy^y7^^-^^^^v/^/^ V0 



Hrv^t.tj ■ To 10 

GARDE MANGER DEPARTMENT FOR HO- 
TEL FONTENELLE, Omaha, showing No. 18, 
vegetable refrigerator; No. 19, the garde manger 
refrigerator with four compartments, shelves and 
drawers under; No. 20, the fish and sea food re- 
frigerators, with pans, and shelves over; No. 23, 
the serving pantry refrigerator with shelves and 
with drawers under; No. 22, the oyster pantry with 
shelves over and bulk storage under. 

does all the work of cooling by passing through 
the expansion valve, and changing into vapor 
ex j landing through the coils under reduced pres- 
sure. In the direct expansion system, which we 
are discussing, the coils can be attached to the 
ceiling or walls of the room to be cooled. 

The compressor is a pump which draws the 
low pressure gas from the expansion coils and 
submits it to n pressure so great that the gas 
when cooled by w.'iter in the condenser, will be- 
come once more a liquid at the temperature of 
the water. The capacity of the compressor de- 
pends on the density of ammonia gas which can 
lie pumped (24 pounds by weight, per hour for 
one ton of refrigeration). 

The most generally accepted compressors are 
built with two single acting pistons. With the 
single acting machine the pressure on the stuf- 




THE GARBAGE REFRIGERATOR, Hotel Fon- 
tenelle, Omaha, showing wood rack over cement 
floor. The refrigerator coils are on the ceiling. The 
garbage cans are arranged around the room. The 
temperature can be brought as low as desired. 
(Jewett installation.) 










Elevjsiics 



*b • J6 • • Consomme* • Rjet^JoejaATOR-* 







Fl/wi oC Top 

CONSOMME REFRIGERATOR, the Fontenelle, 
Omaha, showing elevation, sectional plan, and plan 
of top. The consomme jars are of porcelain and 
with lift swing cover top. (Jewett installation.) 



fing box never gets above the pressure to which 
the gas is allowed to expand, about 27 pounds, 
so there is no danger of leakage. These com- 
pressors are driven by steam, gas, gasoline or 
oil engines, or electric motors. 

The condenser is a set of pipes in which the 
hot gas is cooled and changed again into liquid. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



173 




REFRIGERATION FOR HOTEL FONTEN ELL E, OMAHA, TH E GEN ERAL STORAGE: Note figure 
4, vestibule to storage for cheese, dairy products, miscellaneous, fruits and vegetables, each in sep- 
arate compartments, the vestibule conserving the cold. Note the butcher's room; the alcove from it to 
the fish and oyster box; and directly opening from the butcher's room, the vestibule to the fresh 
meats, smoked meats and poultry rooms. No. 15 is the baker's refrigerator. 



There are many different kinds, but for our pur- 
pose it is best to consider only the double pipe 
type. This consists of two pipes one inside the 
other. The water flows through the inner tube, 
while the ammonia gas flows in the opposite 
direction through the annular space between the 
inner and the outer pipe. The number of these 



pipes depends on the amount of work to be done 
in the condenser. 

The receiver for liquid ammonia is simply a 
strong cylinder fitted with inlet and discharge 
valves. 

This short sketch I have given you treats of 
the elements common to all refrigeration * * * 



174 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



Proper Inside Construction of Ice Boxes 

Paper read by H. M. Stewart, of the McCray Re- 
frigerator Co., Eendallville, Ind., before the 
Ohio State Hotel Association. 
The two most essential things in refrigerator 
construction are: first, the circulation of air in- 
side the box; and, second, the insulation of the 
walls. The first is perhaps the more important 
of the two, for unless the refrigerator or cooling 
room is so constructed as to insure a continuous 
circulation of cold dry air from the ice chamber 
or pipe bunker throughout every part of the re- 
frigerator, the air inside the box will soon be- 
come stagnant and stale and dairy products and 
supplies which are easily spoiled will quickly take 
up the odors from other foodstuffs stored in the 
box and become tainted. 

A refrigerator, too, without the proper cir- 
culation, has a tendency to become damp or to 
sweat, and as germ life multiplies very quickly 
in a damp atmosphere, foodstuffs stored in a 
poorly constructed refrigerator deteriorate very 
fast and the waste from spoilage is correspond- 
ingly greater. 

The proper circulation in a refrigerator can 
be obtained in one way and one way only, and 
that is by the construction and installation of 
the necessary cold and warm air flues, circula- 
tion partitions, etc., which to the ordinary me- 
chanic or local builder is an unknown art. 

Where mechanical refrigeration is used it has 
been the common practice to suspend the coils on 
the side walls of the refrigerator. While, of 
course, this lessens the first cost of installation, 
it is bound to be more expensive in the long run, 
as such an arrangement is almost sure to mean 
a damp and unsanitary refrigerator. This is 
especially true in a storage room or other box hav- 
ing large entrance doors to walk into, for when 
the refrigerator is entered the doors are usually 
allowed to stand open more or less, and the warm 
air entering the cooler rises to the top, and com- 
ing in contact with the cold air inside, condenses 
on the ceiling of the room, causing the refrigerator 
to become damp or to sweat. This is a sure sign 
of imperfect construction, as a properly made 
refrigerator will show no signs of dampness if 
given proper attention. 

It makes no difference whether a refrigerating 
machine or ice is used, the principle is the same; 
and unless the refrigerator or cooling room has 
the proper circulation , unsatisfactory results are 
bound to follow. 

Next in importance to the circulation is the 
insulation or construction of the walls. Different 
refrigerator builders, of course, advocate different 
wall constructions and different insulations. You 
would find on investigation, however, that there 



are only three or four refrigerator builders in the 
country who have made a specialty and a study 
of hotel refrigerators and who have adopted about 
a standard wall construction; and when a varia- 
tion from the standard insulation is advocated, 
about the only argument which can be used for its 
adoption is because the first cost of installing is 
less, which does not carry a great deal of weight 
when the durability and service of the equipment 
is considered. 

As before stated, three or four firms install 
practically all of the first-class hotel work in 
the country, and years of experience have demon, 
strated to them that the most satisfactory insula- 
tion for hotel work is mineral wool and in some 
cases pure cork board. For ordinary sectional 
construction the standard walls have been found 
to be approximated at five and one-half inches 
thick, consisting of three thicknesses of seven- 
eighths inch lumber and three inches of mineral 
wool in two courses, one of two-inch thickness and 
the other one-inch thickness, with about four thick- 
nesses of refrigerator paper. This construction 
has been found by many years ' experience to be as 
near a standard as it is possible to get. This wall 
construction for efficiency and economy of opera- 
tion has been proven by repeated tests under vary- 
ing conditions to be the best for hotel work. 

There is one thing in particular which may seem 
but a small matter to you, but which is of great 
importance, and that is, the arrangement of the 
drain pipe from the refrigerator. Without excep- 
tion, the refrigerator drain should terminate in an 
open funnel or drain pan, immediately outside the 
refrigerator and shotdd never be connected di- 
rectly with the soil pipe or sewer without this open 
or broken connection-. The connections must be 
broken in order to afford proper ventilation for the 
refrigerator. 

In the modern hotel the old method of con- 
centrating the storage facilities in two or three 
large storage boxes is being replaced by having a 
greater number of smaller refrigerators well ar- 
ranged and conveniently located throughout the 
store rooms, kitchens and pantries, each refrig- 
erator being constructed for the purpose of caring 
for different kinds of supplies, this not only elim- 
inating waste, and saving time of the employes, 
but increasing the efficiency of the service. 

The layout and arrangement of the refrigerator 
equipment of each individual hotel presents a dif- 
ferent problem each time, and in order to render 
the best service to our patrons we maintain a 
separate hotel department with practical hotel 
men in charge, who devote their whole time and 
energy to this class of work, and whose service we 
want you to feel free to avail yourselves of at any 
time. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



175 



A Cold Storage Question: Which Is Best for 

Hotels, the Direct Expansion or the 

Brine System ? 

A correspondent writes : ' ' We are contemplat- 
ing putting in some new cold storage boxes in our 
hotel. Some engineers have suggested that we 
put in what is known as the ' direct expansion sys- 
tem,' by which system we could do away with a 
brine tank; and I understand that this system is 
very much cheaper to install, and more economical 
to maintain than a circulating brine system. I 
also understand that there are two objections to 
the system of direct expansion, viz., the liability 
of ammonia leaks, and the difficulty of controlling 
the temperatures. 

"As I understand the matter, this direct expan- 
sion system is nothing new, but inasmuch as very 
few hotels or cold storage plants that I know 
of are using it, I am doubtful as to whether it 
would be wise for us to install this system here, 
especially as our boxes are numerous and small, 
which makes the regulation of temperature all 
the more difficult. * * * 

"I am pretty sure that a consulting engineer 
or a refrigerating engineer would tell us that it is 
perfectly feasible to put in this direct expansion 
system; however, I would like to know the experi- 
ence of some of the hotels with it. It is my im- 
pression that a large majority of the cold storage 
installations in hotels and institutions are of the 
brine circulating type, and there must be a reason 
for it. 

' ' Trusting you can give me some advice on the 

above. ' ' 

* * * 

An experienced man to whom the above letter 
was submitted, made this reply, in substance: 

The direct expansion is not practical for hotel 
use, for the reason that a leak may happen away; 
from the engine room, or at any point where 
the pipes are running; whereas, with the indirect, 
or brine circulating system, the accident of leaks 
is not liable to happen, only in the engine room. 

If they put in the direct expansion system 
they can control the temperature with thermo- 
stats in the ice boxes, but not otherwise. 

Another objection to direct expansion system 
is that if anything happens to the machinery 
the refrigeration immediately ceases; but with 
the other system there is a storage which over- 
comes this delay. 

The direct expansion system is cheaper to in- 
stall and cheaper to maintain, but these advan- 
tages are outweighed by the conveniences of the 
other. 

We would not recommend it at all to a hotel 
with numerous boxes located at different points. 



Fish Box Designed by Fred Hall 

From description of The Beaumont, Green Bay, 

Wis., April, 1913 

Mr. Hall called particular attention to the ice 
box the McCray Kefrigerator Co. made especially 
for him, in which the fish box is built in and 




drains without affecting the balance of the box. 
It had so many good points that we asked the Mc- 
Cray company for an illustration of it, which they 
have furnished. The fish section is shown to the 
left in the illustration. 



An Expert on Frozen Foods 

Miss Pennington, government food expert. (At 
the government exhibit international congress of 
refrigeration): "Buy fish hard frozen, and thaw 
in refrigerator at from 45 to 55 degrees. Buy 
poultry hard frozen and thaw in refrigerator. Big 
poultry, as turkeys, etc., should be given thirty-six 
to forty-eight hours to thaw; small poultry twenty- 
four hours. Never thaw in water. Peas, fruits 
and the like can be kept solidly frozen as you see 
in the exhibit here, and be as good at Christmas 
as when put into cold storage. Everything must 
be absolutely fresh when put into the freezer 
package. ' ' 



The ratio of value between meats and vege- 
tables is changing, to the advantage of the latter. 



Most of the kicks from patrons of country hotels 
are directed against the villainous way the vege- 
tables are cooked and served. Why not make a rep- 
uation for YOUE house for the general excellence 
of the vegetables served. It surely would be a 
great advertisement. 



176 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



Light on the Frozen Meat Question 

F. R. Huntington of Armour &> Co. 

Frozen meat has been the object of a great 
deal of criticism, some of it, no doubt, in per- 
fectly good faith, but the bulk of it inspired by- 
yellow journalism and opposing business interests. 
Meat frozen when perfectly fresh is not properly 
the subject of any criticism whatever, but, some- 
times, the small dealer or packer, with small 
freezer facilities or none at all, who does not make 
a business of freezing meat, will be long oh cer- 
tain fresh meat items; he holds onto them in the 
hope that he will be able to sell them, until finally 
they get so old that it is plain they cannot be 
marketed at that time without a great sacrifice. 
Eather than sacrifice the stock it is put into a 
freezer in the hope that later an opportunity will 
come along to sell it at a better price. The meat 
having gone just about the limit before going into 
the freezer, naturally begins to go bad immedi- 
ately after it is taken out and thawed. The gen- 
eral public coming into contact with these cases 
have assumed that the freezing was responsible 
for the condition. Numerous little cases like this 
occurring through the country have generated quite 
a Avidespread prejudice against frozen meat. 

There is a perfectly legitimate reason why some 
meat should be frozen. There are seasons of the 
year when certain grades of cattle come to mar- 
ket in large numbers. If the entire produce was 
dumped on to the market for immediate consump- 
tion nothing like proper value could be realized. 
And, furthermore, a little later in the year, when 
the same kind of cattle do not come to market at 
all, this grade of cuts would not be obtainable, 
and buyers would be forced to pay much higher 
prices in consequence. 

The large packers make a strict business prop- 
osition of freezing beef cuts. When cutting cat- 
tle in sufficient numbers to produce cuts in excess 
of current demand, the excess goes into the freezer 
every day absolutely fresh and is carried at a tem- 
perature around zero Fahrenheit. Whether the 
cuts remain in the freezer one week, or one year 
or ten years, makes not the slightest difference 
in the wholesomeness of the meat. The only thing 
that can happen is that when the meat has been 
carried an unusual length of time, say two years 
or more, there is some evaporation takes place in 
the outside part exposed to the air, leaving the 
fibre dry, without moisture. There is nothing un- 
healthful about this; the nutriment is all there, 
hut it would not be as appetizing, and in extreme 
eases where ^to<-k lias been in the freezer two to 
four years, it might be necessary to trim off the 

end of a rib or loin to the extent of an eighth to 
halt' :m Incli. The evaporation, however, is not ap- 
preciable for any period short of one year. 



The stories heard about the great length of time 
meat is carried in storage are strictly fables. 
Just look at it from a business standpoint; say 
we have one hundred thousand pounds of a cer- 
tain cut in the freezer, costing 15c per pound. 
The freezer charge is one-eighth of a cent a 
pound per month, interest 6 per cent on $15,000. 
In one year we have freezer charges $1,500, in- 
terest $900, shrinkage (about 1 per cent) $150, 
total $2,550, besides insurance. At the end of 
one year the cost to the owner has increased 2 1 / ^c 
per pound, which is quite sufficient to dispose of 
the idea entertained by some that meats are car- 
ried for years in freezers. Only in rare in- 
stances is meat ever carried more than one year 
and then on account of some slip-up or mistake 
in calculation. Ninety-nine per cent of all meat 
going into the freezer is marketed long before it 
has been there a year. Nothing short of two years 
produces any material deterioration of stock on 
account of the evaporation. Well authenticated 
cases have been brought to light of prehistoric 
animals in the frigid zone having been caught in 
an avalanche and buried in the snow, frozen, and 
afterwards covered by more snow and ice to the 
extent that evaporation was rendered impossible, 
and the carcass subsequently discovered, thousands, 
perhaps millions of years later, with the meat in 
perfectly good condition. 

To sum it all up, the sole reason for any preju- 
dice against 'frozen meat (aside from yellow 
newspaper bunk), is spoiled meat frozen by irre- 
sponsible dealers in an effort to get a longer price. 
Any frozen meat which is bad was bad before it 
was frozen — not because it was frozen. Any frozen 
meat offered for sale by a responsible packer with 
proper freezing equipment can be depended upon 
to be in perfect condition, wholesome and palat- 
able. 



The Right Kind of Boss 

A hotel chef, commenting on the change of 
atmosphere in the working departments, observed 
on following a change of management. "The 
new man is a boss, and the right kind of a boss. 
Everybody in the house recognizes it, even to the 
lowest employe, and the house runs smoothly. 
There are different kinds of bosses; the ugly tem- 
pered boss; the loud talking boss; the good na- 
tured, easy boss, and the quiet, gentlemanly, get- 
there boss. Our last boss was of the easy kind, 
and everything ran slack. Our new boss is of the 
quiet, systematic, key-us-all-up boss, and we like 
him." 



.Just plain common sense has banished mongrel 
French from the bills of fare. 



Lalior saving machinery puts a premium on 
brains to care for and operate the machines. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



177 




The cost of a dish is no indication of its nutri- 
tive value. 



U 



o 
e 
e 





o 
o 
4 


@=3 


o 



It is up to the hotelkeeper to provide wholesome 
food. 



Sell your accommodations according to market 
value. 



The big kitchens are sure enough food fac- 



tories. 



Economy begets wealth. Study the economical 
entree. 



Slow cooking should be supplemented with quick 
service. 



' ' Please the eye " is a good motto for the 
caterer. 



It's the overdoing it in the fancy dish line that 
nauseates the normal healthy appetite. 



The refrigeration exhibit at the International 
Congress of Eefrigeration demonstrated the won- 
derful development of cold storage in the last 
twenty years, and stirred the imagination as to the 
yet undreamed of possibilities in the revolution- 
izing of methods of food handling and marketing. 
Cold storage is yet in its infancy. No dreamer 
of the Jules Yerne type has as yet predicted the 
full development along this line for the coming 
century. 



FRONT 



w 



Fish Box Designed by James T. Clyde 
Inasmuch as different classes and sizes of fish 
are kept separate and easy to get at, the box may 
be used for ice refrigeration only, or for brine 
coils which are concealed in the bottom of each 
pan under the fish. The drawer may be removed, 
cleaned, refilled, and replaced in ten minutes. 

The accompanying illustrations give a general 
idea of the construction and methods of use. 

An important feature that does not show in the 
illustrations is the vent at the end of each drawer, 
which permits of the drip of the ice in the bottom 
of each drawer into a waste pipe at the rear and 
thence to the sewer ; so that any or all drawers 
can be opened and cleaned in very few minutes. 




178 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



Freeze Live Crabs and Lobsters 

Geo. B. McConkey, proprietor of McConkey 's, 
Toronto, has originated a new method of storage 
for soft shell crabs, lobsters, and frogs' legs, that 
may be copied to advantage by hotelkeepers. 

Mr. McConkey buys soft shell crabs in large 
quantities when they are in season and low priced. 
He imports them from Maryland. When they come 
to him alive he puts them in pails of water, then 
packs them in six dozen lots in tin pails, fills the 
pail with water, then puts them in cold storage, 
and freezes them solid. 

As he wants them, later on, weeks or months 
afterward, he takes them out of cold storage, runs 
cold water on them to thaw them out, and they 
are just as good for service as fresh received live 
crabs. He has 500 dozen in storage at the present 
time. 

He does the same with live lobsters; only, he 
says, you must give them lots of drink before the 
freezing; and when taken out of storage they must 
be cooked in water instead of steam, as, for some 
reason or other, which he cannot explain, steaming 
spoils them. It is the same way with frogs' legs; 
put them in water and freeze them for long pres- 
ervation. 



Fresh Berries All the Year for Pies and Puddings 

F. J. Kenning, traveling chef of the Northern 
Pacific dining car system: 

1 ' When I was employed by E. M. Statler in Buf- 
falo, we used to keep berries in cold storage, frozen 
solid, and they were available for pies and other 
culinary uses thruout the year. There was some 
loss from mold, which destroyed usually about an 
inch of berries on top of the package. 

' ' When I went with the Northern Pacific System 
I started to preserve berries after the manner we 
had been doing at the Statler; but I experimented 
and discovered a method of keeping them without 
losing from spoilage by mold. I took fifty-pound 
lard tubs, filled the tubs with berries, covered the 
top with about half an inch of granulated sugar, 
and put them into the freezer to stay until wanted, 
years after, if necessary. I found that the sweat 
which conies from the berries when they are freez- 
ing congealed the sugar into a candy and virtually 
made the package air proof, and prevented mold. 

"When we take the berries out of cold storage 
we lei them thaw out gradually for about twenty- 
four to thirty-six hours, and they are in just as 
good condition for culinary use as when fresh 
picked. This is tlic ease in particular with blue- 
berries, loganberries, blackberries and raspberries, 
all of which stand up good, and keep their color 
and flavor. With strawberries there is a slight 
6 irinkage, bul they keep their color and flavor. We 
have strawberry shortcake on our cards, occasion- 



ally, in dead of winter, and the patrons wonder 
where we get the fresh berries. 

This method of keeping berries in freezers may 
be adopted by hotels any place where they can get 
guaranteed cold storage; also the method is adapt- 
able for soda fountains. 

'We figure that by buying berries when they 
are plentiful and cheap and putting them into our 
own cold storage, that we not only effect a great 
saving in cost, but can serve foods out of season 
to the pleasure of our patrons, and, too, without 
going to the seeming great expense of this 
service. ' ' 



Cold Storage Charges 

A Chicago South Water street (provision) mer- 
chant, asked if he used mechanical refrigeration 
in his store, said: "No. For our ordinary pur- 
poses, the ice is sufficient. But very little of the 
goods we handle ever comes to the store. We use 
cold storage warehouses almost altogether. The 
goods are delivered direct to the warehouse, and 
Ave draw from the warehouse as needed and deliver 
direct to customer. The cost of the storage is % 
of a cent per pound per month. To this cost is 
added the interest on the value of the stored 
goods, insurance, etc. So far as storage charges 
go, however, one and a half cents a pound will 
pay to have the goods frozen solid for a year." 

A meat buyer: "Meats are carried a long 
time in cold storage; but it is not desirable to 
carry them too long, for there is an evaporation 
that spoils the outside for food. It leaves it 
stringy and has to be trimmed for domestic use. ' ' 

The Buying of Hotel Supplies 

Address by John Tcllman before the Illinois Com- 
mercial Hotel Association 

. . . Another contention we have is the cold stor- 
age system as conducted at present. Now, under- 
stand me, there is no doubt in the world but that 
cold storage is one of the greatest blessings. But, 
as at present conducted, it has been a means for 
market manipulation, of cornering the market and 
holding the products, when it is an injustice. And 
in order to succeed in their efforts the products 
are often held until the same deteriorate, and even 
become harmful as food, and then, as the season 
for new and seasonable products comes in, be com- 
pelled to dump the harmful goods on the market; 
instead of which they should be condemned and 
destroyed. 

I believe that most foods can be well preserved 
for a time in cold storage, and some even improved 
a little by a short aging in the cooler; in particular 
meats for two or three weeks; also poultry for a 
certain time; also fruits and vegetables may be 
kept for short time; thus we may have fine apples 
until June, and vegetables months after they are 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



179 



out of season. These features of cold storage are 
beneficial. But fish should not be kept very long, 
for they begin to lose quality the moment they are 
taken from their element. Eggs do not improve in 
cold storage. There never was a system invented 
•whereby eggs would keep their quality. After a 
time they grow rancid, and anybody can tell when 
an egg is not fresh. 

I believe that cold storage should be a federal 
and not a state regulation. For instance, there 
might be one law affecting cold storage in Mis- 
souri and a totally different one in Illinois, and 
cold storage houses in East St. Louis, just across 
the river, might demoralize the St. Louis market. 

. . . My policy is to buy the best. A fat tur- 
key is worth more than a lean one, for the frame 
in a fat turkey weighs no more than the frame 
in a poor turkey. A short loin is cheaper than a 
long one, as the waste is less; the same way with 
all meats and poultry, also fresh vegetables. A 
well filled can weighs more. You can afford to 
pay the difference. In buying the best you save 
shrinkage, which you must suffer with cheap cuts 
or light packages. 



Making Unclouded Ice from Raw Water 
We inspected the ice making plant installed in 
the Neil House (Columbus, Ohio) by the Arctic 
Ice Machine Co. Manager Harmon explained the 
installation and complimented it highly. The de- 
vice is of particular interest and value to hotel- 
keepers from the fact that it makes pure unclouded 
ice from raw water. The installation is similar 
to the ordinary ammonia-brine process for refrig- 
eration, and the fifteen-ton plant of the Neil House 
cools 19 boxes, in addition to a pull of 2% tons of 
ice. The farthest box, a showcase located at the 
entrance to the restaurant, is maintained at 32 
degrees. This showcase is of double glass, with 
glass partitions, forming separate compartments 
for meats, fish, and vegetables on display. The 
clear ice is produced by means of compressed air 
forced into the bottom of each of the freezing 
tanks, and continuously aerating the water so that 
at the end of thirty hours a 200-pound cake of ice, 
clear as crystal, is pulled from the tank. Ordinary 
filtered water is used. 



Custom makes slaves to etiquette in eating. 



Rushing the can in the kitchen has a demoraliz- 
ing effect. 



It is the waste of spoiled food that makes the 
unskilled cook expensive to employ. 



The "cuisine classique" pleases only people 
with pampered palates. 



Packing Meat for Individual Portions 

In the butcher shop (Northern Pacific Com- 
missary, Seattle) we noticed the great care taken 
in cutting and packing the meat for individual 
portions. Steaks are eighteen ounces, mutton 
chops two to the order, lamb chops three to the 
order, all uniform portions, and all paper wrapped. 
Preparation is made for 500 chicken pot pies a 
day. Bacon is cut with a Sterling slicer, the bacon 
left on the rind. 



Good for the Digestion 

The old Persian maxim : ' ' Eat slow and you 
will not overeat," when made a rule of life in this 
day and generation, does more for the comfort, 
health, and well-being of those who practice it 
than that of any other maxim than the Golden 
Rule. 

The seven words of this Persian maxim printed 
upon the frieze of the dining room, so that all 
who eat might read and take heed, should answer 
a three-fold purpose. First, and most important 
of all, to conserve the health of the diner, which 
means improvement of disposition and a happier 
life. Second, a greater appreciation of the food 
eaten, which means the more thorough enjoyment 
of this absolute necessity of life — eating. Third, 
it means economy, particularly in the American 
plan house, for there would not then be the waste 
which the present ' ' hurry and spoil ' ' methods en- 
tail. 

True, the meal hour would be prolonged. And 
it ought to be, to give opportunity for promoting 
the ' ' eat slow ' ' habit. 



Never-Ending Fight on Vermin 

' ' The world fights bugs as much as sin, ' ' re- 
marked a hotelkeeper who has been up against it 
in ridding an old house of vermin. ' ' I wish, ' ' he 
said, "there was some more cleanly and effective 
method of doing this work than is now known. 
I have tried the powders, and the liquids, and the 
fumes, and the traps, and most every device that 
has been conceived by man for extermination of 
household pests. And while I have, in a measure, 
succeeded, yet the fight against vermin is never 
ended. It seems to me that a great fortune awaits 
the genius who will devise and market some meth- 
od, other than at present known, that will do the 
work without muss or disagreeable odors as the 
result of the attempt. The great demand is for 
something to eradicate roaches, bed bugs, and 
ants. Rats and mice also might be put in the 
category. ' ' 



The chef who smokes in the kitchen sets a bad 
example for his assistants. 



Marketing Logically 

Quoting Miss Ellen Lindberg, manager Hotel 
Cloquet (40 rooms), Cloquet, Minn.: "I pay 
my butcher good prices. I cannot expect him to 
give me the best meats and then bargain. ' ' 



180 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



MAYONNAISE 

A subscriber criticises the Whitehead receipt 
for mayonnaise recently printed in the Hotel 
Monthly as being a slow and laborious method 
and not adapted for the average kitchen require- 
ment. He says: 

"I have tried the different ways and have met 
with best success by using as little as possible of 
lemon juice or vinegar to start — just enough to 
make the mixing in of oil possible and proper. 

"One great source of trouble to the cook in 
making mayonnaise is the fault of too little of egg 
yolk, or improper salting. Salt has a wonderful 
chemical effect on oil and especially on egg yolk. 
It is better to use too much than too little of 
either. The egg yolks are the foundation of a 
good mayonnaise that will not disintegrate or 
' break' as the cooks commonly call it. 

"You should gage the quantity and quality of 
mayonnaise by the quantity of egg yolks used — 
about six egg yolks to a quart of oil is little 
enough. 

' ' Salt is very important and an otherwise good 
mayonnaise would be spoiled by improper salt- 
ing. The lack of salt is what often causes the 
mayonnaise to 'break.' About one and one-half 
tablespoonfuls to a quart of oil is. right. 

' ' To make up a gallon of oil into mayonnaise, 
place in the mixing bowl the yolks of twenty-four 
eggs, six tablespoonfuls of salt, four tablespoon- 
fuls of English mustard (vary the latter accord- 
ing to quality), and red pepper. Some add flavor- 
ing; such as rubbing the inside of the mixing bowl 
with clove of garlic; adding grated nutmeg or 
something. A pure or good oil, though, is best 
without flavoring, beyond the use of lime or lemon 
or white wine vinegar. Lime and lemon juice is 
always permissible and desirable, but vinegar is 
commonly made to take its place. Use the best 
vinegar obtainable; white wine or cider vinegar 
are about the best. 

"With the ingredients above given, in the bowl, 
get your whip and begin to stir. You will find 
that it soon becomes a too solid mass to work. 
Then you add vinegar or lemon juice, just enough 
to loosen up the mixture and permit of mixing in 
the oil. You should keep the contents of the bowl 
as solid as you can and allow for the proper mix- 
ing of the oil; you thereby gain what is most 
Deeded in making. good mayonnaise in good time, 
plenty and the maximum of friction. 

"Should your bowl contain a soupy mixture, it 
requires all the more time and labor to mix in the 
oil. and also renders it impossible to obtain the 
best results. So by all means keep the mixture 
hard. Add generous quantities of oil as you pro- 
ceed, not drop by drop as Whitehead directs, but 
cup by cup. Be careful to keep the dressing prop- 



erly mixed and not go too fast. You can tell at 
once, if you know your business, just when it is 
stirred enough, but it is a knowledge you must 
acquire in order to make a successful mayonnaise. 
It has a peculiar finish and glassy appearance 
when properly finished. This, like bread making 
and some other things, must be acquired by experi- 
ence and are not to be learned in books. 

"Now, having whipped in all the oil you are 
going to use, add your vinegar gradually as you 
do the oil, until your dressing is of the proper 
consistency, leaving it quite thick. Oftentimes 
the cook makes his mayonnaise too thin. Care 
should be taken to have it thick enough to mold 
or 'mask' properly and give the desirable finish 
to the salad. By the above process the skilled man 
may turn a gallon of oil into mayonnaise in fif- 
teen or tw y enty minutes. 

"All oils are not alike and will not make up 
nor keep the same. It is very difficult to make a 
mayonnaise that will 'hold' some oils. In such 
cases it is best to mix a mock or cooked mayon- 
naise with the oil dressing in order that it may 
hold well. 

"A mock mayonnaise is something that every 
cook should know how to make. You can get all 
the salad dressing you want at very little cost 
by its use. It is quite as good as a pure oil dress- 
ing and, made in some of its ways, is oftentimes 
preferred by the diner who has not acquired the 
peculiar appetite needed to appreciate the pure 
olive oil dressing. 

"In many cases where you may be working on 
the low per capita basis, the cooked mayonnaise 
will save you a lot. You should always have some 
on hand in your cooler. This dressing, like the 
one of all oil, can be made in different ways. 
Made rich enough with eggs, cream and butter it 
is fine and more expensive than common oil. For 
ordinary and saving purposes, my method is to 
make a roux, as for a sauce, using the salad oil 
or drawn butter with flour. With this roux mix 
in the mustard, salt, pepper, and flavor; then mix 
in equal quantities of boiling vinegar and white 
stock, or plain boiling water to finish with; add 
the egg yolks, the latter to be properly mixed and 
'set' so that the whole will be about the consis- 
tency of the average Hollandaise sauce. Put this 
mixture away to cool in earthenware; then, when 
you want a mayonnaise dressing, you can use one- 
half of the cooked dressing, first stirring it until 
smooth, to one-half of the pure oil dressing; or 
even two-thirds of the cooked dressing to one-third 
of the oil dressing. You can thereby reduce the 
cost of your salad dressing by one-half or more, 
and by skillful work have a dressing that will never 
'break,' and that will pass almost anywhere out- 
side of the very best places. 

' ' In using eggs for making consomme always 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



181 



lay away the yolks, as the white of the egg only 
is quite as potent as the whole egg, and better in 
clearing stock. Be sure the yolks are free of fer- 
tilizer, that they may keep well. By these means 
you will likely have a stock of yolks for salad 
dressing and other uses. Chef. 



SOME SIMPLE LIFE FOODS 



Watercress Sandwich. 

Two slices of bread cut about half an inch thick. 
Spread with butter. Pile one slice one inch deep 
with watercress. Sprinkle salt on the cress. Place 
the other slice on top, butter side down. Press 
into sandwich. Bite into it and eat hearty. 

This is one of the most wholesome breakfast or 
supper dishes imaginable. Especially prescribed 
for those who need the complexion improved or 
blood purified. 

Instead of bread for the above recipe a shredded 
wheat biscuit may be used. Split into half. But- 
ter each half of the split side and make a water- 
cress sandwich. 

Boiled Onions. 

Take half a peck of onions. Peel; put into a 
stew-pan with cold water. Put on the fire and 
let boil till soft. Then take about a pint of milk; 
pour onto the onions and let simmer for two or 
three minutes. Season with salt. 

Make a full meal of this dish. The liquor is 
just as good as the onions. Eat it all. Use a little 
butter when eating, if you like butter; also any 
kind of bread. 

If you are very tired and nervous, let this be 
your supper. Go to bed and sleep, and awake re- 
freshed in the morning. 

Asparagus, Plain Boiled. 

Boil the asparagus until thoroughly cooked. Eat 
unsparingly of it, using salt as the only condi- 
ment. People who fear Bright 's disease will find 
this dish their salvation. 

Eaw Carrots. 

The Gladstone chew is a great accomplishment 
in the line of promoting good digestion. The habit 
is hard to acquire, especially with those who have 
been used to bolting their food. Here 's the pre- 
scription: Take each day for lunch one or more 
raw carrots. Pare or scrape the skin off. Cut 
into discs about a quarter of an inch thick. Sprin- 
kle with salt. Chew until all the juice is extracted. 
Don 't swallow the residue. 

The raw carrot, when fresh pulled and brittle, 
is a most relishable vegetable. It is rich in sugar 
and for hundreds of years has been known as a 
vegetable good for the blood. It is also fine for 
keeping the teeth white. 

Shredded Wheat With Bananas. 
Crush a shredded wheat biscuit into a deep bowl. 



Take a ripe banana; peel; cut into discs until the 
wheat is covered. Sprinkle salt over. Pour on 
about a gill of milk (not cream). CheAV well be- 
fore swallowing. Fine for breakfast for every- 
body, and particularly good for supper. 

ZWIEBACH WITH HONEY. 

Spread zwiebaeh with strained honey, and eat. 
Don't use the strained honey that you buy in 
the stores, unless absolutely sure that it is pure. 
Buy your honey in the comb, and strain it your- 
self. Then you are sure of pure honey. Much of 
the marketed strained honey has been doctored 
with alum, and may be yet, and this is poison. 

Half-and-Half and Zwiebach. 

Bowl of half milk and half cream. Several 
slices of zwiebach. Break the zwiebach into the 
half and half, one slice at a time, so as to eat 
while yet crisp. Sprinkle a little salt onto the 
zwiebach each time a slice is broken into the half 
and half. 

Adam 's Apple. 

Crush a shredded wheat intor a deep bowl. 

Cover it with four or five tablespoonfuls of stewed 

apple. Sweeten to taste. Use very little milk or 

cream. This combination of cereal and fruit taken 

as the last dish at breakfast, or the last dish at 

supper, is prescribed as one of the best agencies 

for correct regulation of the stomach. 

* * * 

The above are only a few suggestions in the 
line of getting away from the fancy foods that are 
so conducive to biliousness and other ailments 
that afflict both the rich and poor, from eating 
hifalutin named dishes, that are in reality nothing 
more than a variety of hash. 

The simple foods of our forefathers are be- 
coming recognized as the best nourishers and 
health givers for the present generation. It is a 
well-known fact that men and women who live 
longest and enjoy life to old age, are those who 
eschew the fancy foods and enjoy the God-given 
flavors of the individual cereals, fruits, vegetables 
and meats. 



The Keen-Eyed Carver 

An old saying is that a carver should have good 
eyesight. Two stories are told to illustrate this: 
One, that a carver can not work successfully un- 
less he can read fair sized print with the naked 
eye at the distance of the beef he is carving. 

The other : That he should be able to carve roast 
beef so thin that he can read fair sized print 
through the slice of beef he has carved! 



The can-opener is a mighty handy tool in kitch- 
ens and pantries nowadays. 



Lack of proper nourishment is lack of proper 
knowledge of what proper nourishment is. 



182 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



CORNED BEEF 



The editor's attention having been called to 
the ever increasing demand which is being made for 
corned beef, endeavored to ascertain a few facts 
regarding the different cuts of beef, process of 
curing, and such other information that would tend 
to enlighten some of our readers as to certain pos- 
sibilities of building up a reputation and causing 
comment to be made in favor of tasty dishes 
served in their dining rooms and cafes. After 
making inquiries at several of our leading hotels 
and restaurants, we paid a visit to the establish- 
ment of Irwin Brothers, Chicago, a firm enjoying 
the distinction of turning out a grade of corned 
beef second to none in the country. John Irwin 
took us into the mammoth cooling room and pro- 
ceeded to give the information we sought. He 
said: 

' ' You are aware of the fact that we supply a 
majority of the leading hotels and cafes of this 
town, as well as a great number within a radius 
of five hundred miles from here. Therefore, en- 
joying this reputation, it is very essential that we 
give the very best that the market will provide. 
We have experimented for a number of years to 
produce a grade of corned beef which would be in 
keeping with our reputation for supplying fresh 
meats, and are happy to say that we have mastered 
this subject, and are now prepared to fulfill every 
demand for delivery of a perfect grade of corned 
beef." 

Making a demonstration, Mr. Irwin laid par- 
ticular stress upon what is commonly known as 
brisket corned beef. ' ' This particular cut, ' ' he 
said, "is taken from the breast of the beef, and 
in order to insure a tender piece of meat, it must 
come from native corn fed cattle. What I mean 
by 'native' is such cattle as are fed and raised on 
the farms of our middle western states, such as 
Iowa, Indiana, Missouri, and of course our own 
state. Cattle coming from the western ranches or 
Texas plains, where they roam the prairies in a 
wild, uncultivated country, become very much hard- 
ened and naturally tough in meat, therefore we 
will not use anything but home grown meat in 
making our now famous corned beef." 

Mr. Irwin took us to their trimming and pick- 
ling rooms, where he showed how these briskets 
are prepared and the processes used in curing 
same. The brisket is cut from the lower or point 
end of the plate; the bone is entirely cut out and 
most of the fat trimmed off, thereby making it 
economical to use, us there is absolutely no waste 
after curing. When trimmed it is put into a large 
vat to soak and be thoroughly washed. After be- 
ing in this water six to eight hours it is transferred 
to another vat containing a light brine which is 



used to withdraw the blood from the meat; after 
going through this process it is again transferred 
to large wooden pickling vats containing a brine, 
the ingredients of which are a secret of their ex- 
pert corned beef maker, there to remain about 
twenty days, in which time it should be thoroughly 
cured and ready for use. 

Occasionally the brine does not penetrate a cer- 
tain spot of the meat, causing a dark spot to ap- 
pear, in which case the portion so affected is in- 
oculated with brine by means of an instrument 
especially made for that purpose, after which the 
dark part disappears and the meat will cut showing 
a dep red color throughout. 

The economy of serving corned beef is in the 
fact that there is absolutely no waste to it. It is 
very delicious whether served hot or cold, and all 
so-called rough pieces can be utilized in making 
a very tasty and palatable dish called "hash." 

' ' Our corned beef is regularly inspected by gov- 
ernment officials, ' ' said Mr. Irwin, ' ' to show that 
the pure food laws are strictly adhered to, and to 
insure against the use of preservatives of any de- 
scription, thereby assuring our customers of get- 
ting nothing but pure, wholesome grades of corned 
beef. 

"When served as a boiled dinner, or with cab- 
bage, there is nothing to compare with this kind 
of meat, provided it is cooked properly, and I wish 
to state right here that this is the essential part 
of serving this dish. Corned beef should always 
be put on the fire in cold water and allowed to boil 
at least five hours. It is advisable to put on the 
first thing in the morning, say at six o 'clock, which 
will enable you to have it ready for service by 
eleven o 'clock. Never allow corned beef to be par- 
tially cooked and then warmed up just before it is 
wanted, as this will lose the flavor and cause it to 
become hardened, giving it a very flat taste, 
thereby depriving your customer of that satisfac- 
tion he is looking forward to when he sits down at 
your table and places his order with the waiter. ' ' 

* * * 

Sirloin steaks: While in the cold room, we 
noticed some extra large and fine looking sirloin 
steaks. Asked who these were for, John Irwin 
said : ' ' These steaks are for one of Clyde 's feasts. 
There is nothing finer. The steaks are cut three 
and a quarter inches thick, and weigh nine and a 
half pounds. It takes about an hour to broil one 
of these steaks, and one steak is enough for eight 
people. 

' ' The steer these were cut from was killed seven 
weeks ago. He weighed alive 1,625 pounds, and 
dressed, a thousand pounds. That gives this spe- 
cial carcass a dressing percentage of 62 V> ac- 
counted as good. The ribs and loin constitute only 
26 per cent of the dressed weight." 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



183 



MEAT CUTS FOR PROFIT 



Extracts from a paper read by Maxwell H. Jones 
of Libby, McNeill cj- Libby before the Ohio Hotel 
Association (January, 1913) : 

There are now, therefore, special reasons for 
practicing economy in the use of meats, and the 
important question is how are you to practice 
economy more than you now are? This doubtless 
is the question that is puzzling most of you. It 
is of the most vital importance to you as hotel- 
keepers because of the large quantities of meat 
necessarily consumed in your business. I can 
merely offer the suggestions of a layman and put 
questions that you alone can answer, but before 
proceeding further I wish to repudiate all sugges- 
tion of criticism and apologize for my presump- 
tion. You all of course appreciate the fact that 
the tremendous increase in the number of Euro- 
pean plan hotels and a la carte service during the 
last few years has proportionately increased the 
demand for steaks, roasts and chops, letting the 
coarser parts of the carcass go a-begging, whereas 
the coarser meats were formerly largely consumed 
by American plan hotels. All meats that can be 
converted into steaks, roasts and chops are there- 
fore now at a premium. This is a cue : Find ways 
and means to use more coarse meats. Then, too, 
you all doubtless appreciate the fact that much 
waste and loss may occur because not sufficient 
scientific care is bestowed on all meats received 
at your hotels. The old adage, ' ' Eternal vigilance 
is the price of success, ' ' here applies with peculiar 
force. Do you enter your refrigerator at least 
once each day to see what shape and condition 
every article is in? Do you make it a point to 
have all the receptacles scrupulously clean, so as 
to keep the meats perfectly sweet and prevent any 
of them from becoming rancid or tainted? Do 
you actually use all the meats you receive and pay 
for? 

Do you use all your meats economically? Are 
they all used to the best advantage? Do you per- 
mit any of them to spoil through carelessness? 
Do they bring proper returns? Are your steaks 
and chops cared for, treated and cooked scien- 
tifically? Are they kept cold and dry without com- 
ing in contact with ice? Is the air excluded from 
them so far as practicable? Are they dusted with 
salt and placed on a hot broiler and exposed only 
long enough to be seared and then quickly turned 
over and seared on the other side, so as to seal the 
juice in the meat before further broiling, or are 
your steaks and chops laid on ice, permitting the 
water from the melting ice to permeate the meat, 
separate the fibers and carry away the globules of 
nutriment and flavor and then placed on the 
broiler, allowing the first side to remain exposed 
long enough to expand the fibers and force sub- 



stantially all the juice through the top surface and 
be lost on the broiler when the steak is turned 
over? Does your cook puncture your steaks and 
chops with a fork or other utensil so as to allow 
much of the juice to spurt out during the process 
of cooking and thus impair the nutriment and 
flavor? Do you serve steaks and chops econom- 
ically trimmed, or do you serve steaks with the 
tough ends attached, which are rarely eaten, when 
they might be cut off and converted into profitable 
meat dishes? Is your business such that you can 
serve pot roasts, lamb and mutton stews, meat 
pies, etc.? Have you figured to ascertain how lit- 
tle per capita these cost? Have you investigated 
to ascertain whether your cook makes these dishes 
as good as the cooks at other places do? Do you 
realize that these dishes made poorly reflect on 
your management and that a dish worth making 
is worth making well? Do you realize the full 
value of a good cook and compliment him and even 
reward him when he originates a special dish fit 
for kings and politicians from good, wholesome 
raw material that would otherwise go to waste? 
Do you realize that the average guest seldom knows 
what he intends to order when he seats himself 
at your table, and that a recommendation by a 
well-trained waiter of a special dish will often lead 
to his ordering it instead of a steak or a chop, not 
only then, but often afterwards, if good, and that 
he will recommend it to others, and that your hotel 
will profit more both in money and in reputation 
by serving original special dishes cooked to per- 
fection than by serving steaks and chops, on which 
the profit is little or nothing? Do you keep mut- 
ton and lamb continuously in view and serve them 
liberally when cheap? Do you realize that the 
shoulder can be roasted and made delicious? Do 
you insist on all the coarser meat that is to be used 
for special dishes being used before it becomes 
tainted, when to be used it must be spiced so 
highly as to destroy its natural flavor to conceal 
the taint? Do you realize that hamburg steak to 
be real good must be made of strictly fresh meat 
and is never good when made of stale meat? 



AN EXPERT ON MEATS 



From address of J. P. Maguire, of Armour $• 
Co. before the Kansas-Missouri-OJdahoma Hotel 
Association, December, 1913. 

. . . Now again, Mr. Hotel Keeper, you only use 
about thirty per cent of the beef animal, consist- 
ing of ribs, and loins — and approximately two of 
the latter to one of the former — and a small per- 
centage of other parts, such as tongues, livers, ox- 
tails, sweetbreads, etc., leaving seventy per cent 
to be gotten rid of elsewhere, perhaps, after we 
have carried it in stock a long time in a frozen con- 
dition, thereby depreciating its value; and still 



184 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



right at this moment you can buy a number one 
chuck steak in Kansas City at twelve and one-half 
cents, and boiling beef at ten cents. 

. . . Furthermore, you doubtless don't realize, 
but it is the truth, a great deal of bacon is used 
on account of its weight instead of its flavor. You 
all like a piece weighing about three to five pounds, 
which constitutes about six per cent of the weight 
of a hog. Isn 't that true ? When told that heavier 
pieces come from more matured hogs, what is your 
reply? Our patrons like their portions "thin,'' 
and ' ' thin ' ' they must be. Therefore we have got 
to get "thin" hogs and then store perhaps for 
months the balance, or about ninety per cent — all 
but the bacon — until we find an outlet. 

Now it would be just as easy for you gentlemen 
to get an apple that was flawless in every way but 
had only been growing four weeks, as it would be 
a perfect piece of bacon that would tip the scale 
at four pounds, for the hog from which it comes 
is neither matured by age nor feed. 

Shall the slaughtering of calves be stopped? 
Well, with feed as high and as scarce as it is now, 
what would you do for sustenance if we had nine 
million more of them to take care of this year or 
next? Wouldn't it be far better to cross breeds 
for the purpose of producing the best beef calf? 
Then, to take care of them as they should be and 
feed scientifically and see if at the end of the year 
you would not have an animal weighing two hun- 
dred pounds more on an average than it does now? 
A gain of fifty per cent, which would mean a great 
deal in making up the meat deficiency. 

Again right now the lighter animal weighing 
alive from six hundred to eight hundred pounds in 
prime condition will bring almost as much as prime 
steers on that account. Why, then, keep the latter 
until they are two or three years old, and scale 
twelve to sixteen hundred pounds before slaughter- 
ing? Which would mean a great big loin and rib 
from which you couldn't cut a thick steak for less 
than one dollar. 



MILK FED CHICKEN 



Sweetbreads and Milk-Fed Veal 

Chas. Wissman, provision dealer, New York: 
"I have specialized sweetbreads and veal for 
many years. I handle only choice goods. !f_ col- 
lect from a wide territory; also distribute widely. 
I will not handle veal unless it is over six weeks ' 
old and weighs 120 pounds upward, and it must 
be milkfed veal. Calves should not be bled be- 
fore killing. It is cruel, and, besides, the loss 
of blood affects the health of the animal." 



A sharp steel knife will prevent many a kick at 
the tough steak. 



Since milk-fed chicken has become so prominent 
on bills of fare, the following correspondence will 
doubtless interest many of our readers: 

"We frequently represent milk-fed chicken, on 
our dining car and restaurant menus, but there is 
some doubt in my mind as to whether the average 
person can tell the difference between milk-fed 
chicken and the fine fresh killed broiler. Isn't it 
a fact that the term ' Milk-fed chicken ' is used with 
the same freedom on menus as 'Vermont turkey' 
and 'Long Island duck'? In your opinion, is the 
supply of milk-fed chicken equal to the demands of 
dining cars, restaurants and hotels, in addition to 
the demands of private trade. 

"I should like to get as much information as 
possible on this subject: Where are the milk-fed 
chickens farmed ; what is the manner of treatment ; 
how are they fed; what grade of milk is served 
them, and at about what temperature? I am ad- 
vised that a large quantity of the milk-fed chicken 
served in hotels and restaurants is cold storage 
stock. Is this so, and what effect has cold storage 
on this kind of chicken ? ' ' 

For authoritative reply the letter was submitted 
to the poultry department of Armour & Co., who 
furnished the following information: 

"There are very few people outside of the poul- 
try business who can readily tell the difference be- 
tween a milk-fed and corn-fed chicken, and think 
the information expressed in the first paragraph of 
attached letter is nearly correct. Poultrymen de- 
termine by the color and texture of the skin; the 
milk-fed chicken being soft, smooth and whiter in 
appearance than the corn-fed. 

"In regard to the second paragraph: the chick* 
ens are farmed all over. They are fed in various 
ways; some use skimmed milk and oil meal; some 
use oil meal and white corn; some serve the feed 
luke-warm, while others serve it cold. 

' ' All the milk-fed chickens served in hotels and 
restaurants are cold storage stock, as it is frozen 
before being shipped to market. It is quite gen- 
erally conceded that freezing has a beneficial effect 
on all poultry, milk-fed included. ' ' 






A foul-mouthed chef handicaps the dining room 
service. Decent waitresses will not work where 
the verbal atmosphere of the kitchen is unclean. 



More About Milk Fed Chickens 

S. L. Knisell of Galen Hall, Atlantic City: 
"I am well aware that plenty of hotels and res- 
taurants use any term they think sounds effective to 
designate dishes listed on their bills of fare, and 
without any care to tell the truth. Putting it 
plainly: they lie about what they have for sale; 
they misrepresent their goods. The 'Vermont' tur- 
key, the 'Long Island' duck and the 'Philadelphia' 
capon are familiar in the list of geographical lies. 
I know of houses that regularly serve Gorgonzola 
cheese and call it Roquefort, while in another in- 






GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



185 



stance drum fish sometimes masquerades as sheeps- 
head. 

' ' But to return to milk-fed chickens : In the New 
Jersey poultry district chickens are 'put up' for 
about two weeks before they are killed. That is, 
they are confined in small coops so that they can- 
not get other than clean food and will not run their 
fat off. They are fed with corn meal and skimmed 
milk. To this is often added stale bread or other 
cheap left-over but clean foods, obtained from 
bakeries. This is fed hot or cold, depending upon 
the amount of care the farmer is willing to take. 
This Jersey poultry is much esteemed, is never 
1 strong' in odor, and brings top prices. 
"But, possibly, this is common knowledge. 
' ' I have seen chickens milk-fed on a large scale, 
and this is the method employed: Live chickens 
are bought that are as near to ' frame and feathers * 
as possible. They are put in wooden slat coops 
having wire mesh floors and an under floor of gal- 
vanized iron which is removable for cleaning. Eight 
birds in a coop. Each coop has a removable coop 
trough in front, and a container for water. The 
coops are placed on top of each other three or four 
deep, after the manner of the familiar sectional 
bookcase. As each coop is emptied it is dipped 
in hot milk of lime, dried and again filled with live 
poultry. I have seen eight thousand chickens in 
such quarters in one lot. They are fed liberally 
four or five times a day a mixture of corn meal, 
wheat flour, suet, graham flour, salt, powdered 
charcoal and buttermilk; or milk or skimmed milk 
is used if other supplies are not available. The 
food is prepared in a vat, the milk is heated suffi- 
ciently to melt the suet, and the mixture worked 
with a shovel until it is about the consistency of 
molasses. 

"The usual time for keeping chickens on this 
food is fourteen days, though this period is ex- 
ceeded at times when the demand for the products 
does not require the usual quota to be killed. 
Chickens so fed will increase from 10 to 15 per 
cent in weight, and the appearance of the second 
joint meat is often markedly changed in color and 
becomes almost like 'white meat.' A chicken so 
fed will improve and be much more tender than the 
hillside fowl not so treated. Of course some chick- 
ens are beyond hope of being improved — their day 
having gone by. 

"Fatteners of chickens after this method have 
a two-fold profit : weight and quality. 

"Where chickens are kept so closely together it 
is necessary to maintain circulation of air; usually 
this is accomplished with electric fans. 

' ' Someone is mistaken when they assert ' All the 
milk-fed chickens served in hotels and restaurants 
are cold storage stock.' My observation is quite 
contrary to that statement. I know some hotels 



that positively never serve any cold storage stock 
of any kind. It can be done, but of course they 
are particular people and ambitious to please their 
guests and achieve a reputation for quality.'' 



Habits of Oysters and Soft Shell Crabs 

"The oyster has a back-bone just like a rab- 
bit," said Esau L. Johnson of Hotel Johnson, 
Washington, D. C. (Mr. Johnson has been in the 
oyster business all his life, and so was his father 
before him. He can tell, by looking at an oyster, 
what part of the Chesapeake Bay it grew in, or 
if it is foreign to the Chesapeake beds. He knows 
the habits of the animal, and is familiar with 
oyster culture in all its phases.) 

' ' Did you ever see the back-bone of an oyster ? ' ' 
asked Mr. Johnson. 

" No ? Then I '11 show it to you. ' ' And he took 
his pen knife and dissected one. 

* ' You will see, ' ' said he, ' ' it begins at the neck, 
or gills, and stops at the stomach, just like the 
back-bone of other animals." 

And, sure enough, the back-bone was there. 

' ' The oyster feeds five hours at flood tide, and 
sleeps seven hours at ebb tide, ' ' he said. ' ' Often 
when feeding they catch little seabirds by the feet 
as the birds commence to feed (a great many rocks 
being dry at low tide). As the flood starts you 
could put a pencil in the mouth of any of the 
oysters; and, the little birds pitching on them, 
they close on the birds. 

' ' An oyster for the market must be kept very 
cold, but not frozen. If the oyster's heart is 
frozen, the heart will burst, and the oyster dies; 
but if not too cold, the oyster will live." 

"Soft shell crabs commence to shed when they 
are about the size of a nickel, ' ' said Mr. John- 
son, ' ' and that is the way they grow, — by shedding 
four or five times a summer, mostly on the full 
moon, coming out of the hard shell much larger 
each time than the time before. The light of the 
moon shining full on the water is supposed to 
cause them to shed their shells. ' ' 



Only a sharp steel knife will in any way atone 
for the tough steak. 



There never was a time when food economies 
should be more carefully studied than now. 



Many of the "fancy meats" on the market lists 
of today were classed among the discards thirty 
years ago. 



If hotel men operating hotels with poor cold 
storage facilities knew how much they lost through 
lack of good cold storage facilities, they would 
very soon supply the needed refrigeration. 

Millions of dollars' worth of good meat is 
wasted in hotels annually because of lack of skill 
in the cutting and carving. These are the fine 
arts of the kitchen. Give them best attention. 



1S6 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



SERVICE IN SAN FRANCISCO 

Rules Governing Waiters in the Palace and 
Fairmount Hotels 

Victor Reiter' s School of Instruction 

Copyright 1910 oy Victor Better, mattre d'hotel, 
Palace and Fairmont Hotels. 

Victor Reiter, the maitre d'hotel, entered the 
employ of the Palace Hotel nineteen years ago, 
coming to San Francisco from New York as an 
expert on service ; and his influence in dining room 
service on the Pacific Coast is marked, and extends 
over the continent. In fact, there are many skilled 
men today, working in New York, who got their 
training from Mr. Reiter. He has conducted a 
School of Service, and it is months after a new 
waiter is on the pay roll before he is graduated 
as a first class waiter, to be entrusted with the 
all around service of the standard the Palace and 
Fairmont Hotels demand. 

Said Mr. Reiter, ' ' Our waiters are mostly Euro- 
peans, men who have had experience as butlers, 
etc., especially those employed for the up-stairs 
service. You may be surprised to hear it, but our 
guests are accustomed to better service than they 
receive in New York. We are in position to give 
better service than in the East, for the reason that 
waiters here are paid $2.00 a day exclusive of their 
tips. It takes the average New York waiter who 
comes here some months of training before he fills 

all our requirements. 

# * * 

As illustrative of the pains taken by Mr. Reiter 
to give correct service we reproduce, with his per- 
mission, the rules compiled by him for the main 
dining room, the banquet, the afternoon tea, and 
room service. These rules are copyrighted by Mr. 
Reiter, as they are a part of his School of In- 
struction. 

Room service rules 

1. When serving guests in rooms, do not place 
trays or dishes of any kind on the furniture. 

2. When taking an order over the telephone be 
sure of getting the right room number, as a mis- 
take would cause a great deal of trouble and delay. 

3. Before filling order show it to the captain. 

4. After an order has been served, check it off 
by making a circle around the room number. The 
captain will then know the waiter is ready for an- 
other order. 

5. When taking an order which is to be served 
the following day or down stairs, be careful to 
have it written plainly on a blank, with room num- 
ber, name of guest, number of guests, where to be 
served, and at what time. Send it immediately to 
the one in charge of the dining room mentioned. 

6. Every waiter is responsible for the return of 
trays and ware taken by him to the rooms. Upon 



their return same must be checked off on return 
list. 

7. Report to the captain all trays that have not 
been returned, mark same on black board, wdth re- 
marks, if any, before going off watch. 

8. As we are often short of service tables it is 
strictly against the rules to leave any in the rooms 
when not in use. 

9. Waiters on night watch must, between 11 and 
12 p. m., pass through all the corridors and re- 
move any tables, bottles or ware of any kind that 
might have been left there. 

10. Never neglect to call at the proper time to 
remove the trays from rooms. 

11. Always leave guest's room in order. 

12. If guest requests mail, laundry, newspapers 
or packages, have these orders attended to at once 
and sent up by bell boys. 

13. When receiving orders from guests wishing 
to be called in the morning, telephone such orders 
at once to the clerk in the main office. 

14. All complaints regarding food or service 
must immediately be reported to the captain and 
maitre d'hotel. 

Time required for cooking steak, chops, etc. 

Porterhouse steak for two 30 minutes 

Extra porterhouse steak for four 50 

Small sirloin or tenderloin for one .... 15 

Sirloin or tenderloin for two 20 

Extra sirloin or Chateaubriand 35 

Mutton chops (two per order) 15 

English mutton chops (one per order). 25 

Veal chops (any style to order) 20 

Pork chops (any style to order) 25 

Broiled, boiled or baked fish 20 

Broiled chicken 30 

Broiled club sausage 20 

Hash, soft 10 

Hash, browned 20 

Squab chicken en casserole 40 

Spring chicken en casserole 60 

Roast saddle of lamb 60 

In order to give satisfactory service it is abso- 
lutely necessary that each private stand waiter 
must read the Main Dining Eoom Rules. These 
rules will be explained to anyone not understanding 
them. 

PALACE HOTEL COMPANY, 
Per Victor Reiter, Maitre d'hotel. 
* * * 

Main dining-room rules 

1. When coming on watch sign your name 
in the time book. Neglecting to do so means loss 
of pay. 

2. Particular attention should be paid to personal 
cleanliness. 

3. Gambling is strictly prohibited anywhere in 
the hotel. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



187 



4. Employes are not allowed to eat anywhere 
outside the Helps' Dining Boom. 

5. Make as little noise as possible when hand- 
ling dishes, silverware, etc. 

6. Handle with care all furniture, candlesticks, 
and ware. 

7. Do not damage walls, woodwork, etc. 

8. Never use chairs or furniture to stand on — 
use step ladder. 

9. Never use table napkins for service — use 
special towels furnished for that purpose. 

10. See that all soiled linen goes into the linen 
box or basket. 

11. Never lay clean linen on a chair. 

12. Tables given as turns must always be reset 
by the waiter who has waited on the last party. 

13. Every waiter is held directly responsible for 
his work and all complaints in his station. 

14. Never leave your place of duty or go off 
watch before asking the one in charge. 

15. When a chair has been turned up or the sign 
"RESERVED" placed on a table in your sta- 
tion, see the one in charge about it immediately. 

16. When an order has been given to be served 
at a certain time, be sure that it is never a moment 
later than the time mentioned — rather a few min- 
utes sooner. 

17. During meals, each waiter must assist his sta- 
tion partner, and always help one another in gen- 
eral. 

18. Have no bread or silver ware on the table 
in advance, except when table is reserved. 

19. At all times have only the required silver- 
ware on the table. 

20. To avoid mistakes, every new waiter, with- 
out exception, immediately after having taken an 
order, show the same to the captain before serving. 

21. When guests enter the dining room, always 
conduct them to a seat, should the one in charge 
not be close by. 

22. Pay particular attention to the seating of 
guests. 

23. You can never be too careful when taking 
an order; a great deal of trouble can be avoided 
by taking it properly. 

24. When taking an order always recommend 
relishes, special dishes, and enquire whether cock- 
tails, wines, etc., are wanted. 

25. Transferring orders must be done in the 
pantry or kitchen, outside of the dining room. 

26. Before turning the wine check over to the 
wine man or bus, be sure that it calls for what 
has been ordered. 

27. Cocktails and appetizers (apperitifs) must 
always be on the table before any food is served. 
Never keep guests waiting for them. Waiter or 
his partner must get them immediately, if the 
wine man is busy. 

28. For the main dining room and Laurel Court 
get all plain drinks and high balls through the 
wine man from the restaurant cupboard. 

29. Get all mixed drinks and beer on draught 
from the bar. 

30. Pay special attention to all bottled goods; 
handle every bottle with care. - Wines containing 



sediment must not be shaken in the least; also be- 
ing careful as to their right temperature. 

31. Before removing the capsule, show the bot- 
tle with label exposed, to the host. 

32. Never tear the capsule, but cut the top off 
carefully before pulling the cork. 

33. When a guest has refused to partake of a 
certain wine you are serving, remove that glass 
from the table; he will then be spared the trouble 
of refusing again. 

34. Always remove all empty bottles from the 
guest 's table, and take them directly to the pantry. 

35. Return to the captain or wine man all wines 
or mineral waters left by the guests to be kept 
for them. 

36. See that the guests are provided at all times 
with ice water, bread, butter, etc. 

37. Always give silver knife with caviar or ar- 
tichokes. 

38. Serve hot bread, rolls or toasted crackers 
in a service napkin. Use no covers. 

39. Always brush your table clean before serv- 
ing dessert, even if only finger bowls are to be 
used. If table cloth is spotted, spread a clean 
napkin over it. 

40. When serving cracked crab, artichokes, as- 
paragus, new corn or other articles where guests 
use their fingers, a finger bowl must always follow 
and the guest's napkin changed. 

41. Waiters w T anting to finish their parties can 
do so, but must be on watch again at their regular 
time. 

42. Never transfer an order when once started 
without the permission of the one in charge. 

43. When collecting checks or returning change 
always use a cash tray. 

44. Do not keep guests waiting for their checks. 

45. When an order has been given in advance 
with the guest's name, room number or address, do 
not present the check for payment, but have it 
O. K. 'd by the one in charge as soon as the party 
has left the dining room. 

46. Each waiter must take his own charged 
checks to the office as soon as they are signed. 
Always see that the initials, name, room number 
or address is written plainly. Should a guest 
leave the hotel before the check is turned in the 
waiter who served the party would be subject to 
pay for the same. 

47. All articles found, newspapers included, must 
immediately be handed to the captain. 

48. Always have your station in order before 
going off watch. 

49. All complaints must be reported to the 
maitre d 'hotel. 

50. When leaving the hotel all parcels must be 
opened on demand of timekeeper or any other 
authorized party. 



With white bait serve thin graham bread sand- 
wiches (order in bread pantry). 

With roast domestic duck serve apple sauce. 

With wild duck, serve currant jelly in sauce 
bowl, fried hominy on a napkin on a small platter, 
and lime on a side dish. 



188 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



Serve currant jelly with all broiled or roasted 
game, also with saddle of lamb. 

Serve bread sauce with roasted grouse, pheasant 
and prairie chicken. 

* * * 

Afternoon tea 

1. Always use, as much as possible, the regular 
tea service china ware. 

2. To prevent delay, when an order has been 
given in advance, inquire immediately of each 
guest whether tea, coffee or chocolate is wanted. 

3. When a guest wishes a second helping of tea 
always get a clean cup. 

4. With every high-ball give a clean glass. 

5. Waiters must carry their own dirty dishes 
behind the screen. 

6. The tea and short watch waiters must all be 
on duty again at 3:00 p. m. No excuse will be ac- 
cepted for tardiness. These same watches must 
remain on duty until after dinner. 

7. In order to give satisfactory service every 
waiter and bus boy must read the Main Dining 
Eoom rules. 

By order 

Victor Eeiter, Maitre d 'hotel. 



Main dining-room 

1. Serve all chafing dish orders in the same way 
as the large vol-au-vents. Place the plates on the 
guest's table, then remove the dish from the stand 
and pass it around to each, and if some is left in 
the dish it should be passed a second and even a 
third time. 

2. Return to my office original copies of orders 
that were taken in advance, after they have been 
served. 

3. Number 45 on the Main Dining Room rules 
must be strictly observed. 

4. The wine-room and wine-busses will not be 
allowed to get any wine or drinks unless they are 
provided with the regular wine card filled out by 
the check writer. 

5. When taking orders waiters are requested to 
write them directly on the regular check books, 
but when taking an order for another waiter they 
are allowed to use writing pads. 

6. Fill all finger bowls in the pantry. 

7. Oysters, fish, bananas, or anything else when 
fried in butter, should be served directly on the 
platter, without a napkin. For anything fried in 
lard use a napkin. 

8. When setting up tables for lunch, place five 
rolls on the small tables and seven on the large 
ones. 

9. At all times, and especially at lunch time, give 
your kitchen check to the check writer as soon as 
possible, so as to have it ready to present imme- 
diately after the finger-bowls. (For exceptions see 
paragraph 45 of the General Rules.) 

10. After guests have been served, leave the 
platter on the table within their reach, so they can 
help themselves, should the waiter be otherwise 
engaged. 

11. When black coffee has been ordered suggest 
that it can be served in the court; use any table 
there. 



12. Use small cups for tea and large ones for 
coffee. 

13. Serve mush, also scrambled eggs, in vege- 
table dish. 

14. Hot cakes and waffles should be served on a 
large plate with a large "hot" plate extra for 
service. 

15. Give a hot plate with coffee, tea or choco- 
late and rolls. 

16. Keep your water bottles filled. 

^ 17. Always serve with caviar chopped onions on 
side dish and four small pieces of thin cut dry 
toast. 

18. Serve in mush-bowls individually — 

Canned fruit, 
All stewed fruit, 
Baked apples, 
Sliced bananas, 
Sliced oranges, 
Apple dumpling, 
Peach Melba, 
Berries, 
Dry cereals. 

19. Serve shredded wheat biscuits on a platter 
in a service napkin, with an extra mush-bowl for 
service. 

20. Serve on small plate — 

Biscuit glace, 
Biscuit Tortoni, 
Charlotte Eusse, 
Babas and Savarins. 

Special notice to busses 

21. Be careful when removing dirty dishes from 
the service-tables not to remove platter containing 
eatables^ unless told to by the waiter, as guests 
may desire another helping. 

In order to give satisfactory service, every waiter 
and bus boy must read the Main Dining Eoom 
rules. 

By order of 

Yictor Eeiter, Maitre d 'hotel. 

* * # 

The banquet tables are of ingenious construc- 
tion. The table tops are in sections, and the legs all 
have their tops pierced with pegs extending half 
an inch or so from the leg on both sides ; and these 
legs fit into sockets in the table top as a key fits 
into the keyhole, and the turning of the leg in the 

socket locks it in. 

* # * 

At each checker's stand there is a board for 
keeping track of the waiters' names and numbers, 
and a diagram showing location of tables and the 
number of the waiter assigned to each particular 
table. The waiter's number (in the Palace and 
Fairmont Hotels), remains the same all the time 
he is employed; but it is up to the captain to 
change the tables, so that the waiter may not have 
the same table all the time. 

At the private waiters' stand there is a bulletin 
which gives the bin numbers of the wines most 
called for; this is for convenience of the w r aiters. 

The private waiter 's table measures thirty-six by 
eighteen inches and is set up in units. Thus, a 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



.ISO 



Waiters' Turn List 



BREAKFAST 



TIME 

ON & OFF 



(oiO- pO 



(s.'bO- 



NAME 



tfCUfyA&t 



$f& 



QW/jLJ 



ROOM 





ROOM 




ROOM 





ROOM 





ROOM 



f90 



\ 

Unique method of keeping track of waiters employed for Rooms Service in the Palace and Fairmont 

Hotels, San Francisco. 



table for two diners would be thirty-six by thirty- 
six inches, by placing the two units together. All 
tables for private waiter service are set up in the 
kitchen and taken up complete in the service ele- 
vator. 

Dumb waiter service is not favored in the Palace 
or Fairmont Hotels. They believe that the best 
service is the way they do it; for it is more under 
the control of the maitre d 'hotel and less liable 

to accident or delay. 

* * # 

We observed the novel method of keeping track 
of the private waiters. The captain has a book 
ruled similar to the illustration herewith. The 
ruling shows on the left hand page "Time on and 
off ' ' in the first column, waiter 's * ' name ' ' in the 
second column, and the columns for the "assign- 
ments to rooms ' ' extending across the folio page ; 
thus, we illustrate the waiters ' turn list for break- 
fast: The illustration shows that Jacquet went on 
duty at 6:30 and off duty at 9:30. He served or- 
ders in rooms 856, 320, 416 and 325. When a 
waiter is assigned, the room number is entered in 
the first vacant column opposite his name. When 
the order is served a ring is made around that 
number, and when the meal is finished and the 
table returned, a line is drawn across the room 
number figures, thus indicating that the service for 
that particular room is complete, and the table and 
tableware is returned. The next entry shows that 
Miles came to work at 6:30; that he has com- 
pleted services in four rooms and has just been as- 
signed to room 890, but has not yet started on the 
service elevator with his table. 



The prevailing crime of wastefulness is ram- 
pant in a large number of American hotels. The 
good food wasted by prodigal patrons and by 
careless employes is a crying shame. 



Hypocrisy in Service 

One of the greatest lessons of The Master was 
that addressed to hypocrites who cleaned the out- 
side of the cup, and left the inside polluted. 

The lesson can be taken to heart in many hotels 
where the cleansing is done for outward show. 

The writer once saw some beautifully clean tea 
and coffee pots in a hotel pantry; that is, clean 
so far as the exterior was concerned. But, upon 
examining the inside, there was dregs of a solution 
in which the pots had been dipped ; this solution 
dirty, and of the kind to not only affect injuriously 
the health of those who drank of the beverages 
brewed in them, but also to spoil the taste of the 
beverages. 

The pantryman had shirked his work. He had 
made the outside of the cup clean, and left the 
inside vile. 

It illustrated hypocrisy in service. 

The hotel manager must needs have the senses 
of sight, smell, taste, and touch highly developed 
to discover the shirkers and bluffers in his employ. 



Some of the best lessons in catering are learned 
from the comebacks. 



Catering is the science of feeding rationally 
and economically human beings of discriminating 
tastes. 



In catering the object is to please the palates 
of those for whom you cater, rather than your 
own. Find out what the people like. 



A noted French cook is quoted in cable dis- 
patches as bewailing the lack of appreciation of 
French cookery. 1 1 People are in too much of. a 
hurry to consider what they eat, ' ' he says. Maybe 
the real reason is, that people nowadays are appre- 
ciating the natural taste of foods, rather than the 
creations of hash-like mixtures masked with a 
classic sauce. 



190 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



A Spanish-Mexican Barbecue 

Saturday, April 16, 1910, was Early California 
day. Special cars took the H. M. M. B. A. excur- 
sionists to the grounds of the Vaquero Club, or- 
ganized by a few Los Angeles men and women as 
a riding club. Its object is "to promote good fel- 
lowship and good horsemanship, and to perpetuate 
the early California day and the Vaquero days 
when the hand of welcome was extended to the 
Americans who crossed the plains to the Golden 
State. "... The entertainers were in Spanish, 
Mexican and cowboy garb. The entertainment con- 
sisted mainly of feats of horsemanship, broncho 
busting, spearing the ring, rough riding and expert 
rope tossing. 

. . . Then came the Spanish-Mexican barbe- 
cue: the meat cooked in three pits, one for the 
beef, another for the mutton and a third for the 
bulls' heads. The cooking of the tamales, chilis, 
beans, tortilla bread and other components of the 
menu was done in the open air in full view of the 
visitors. Chef Joe Eomero is an authority on 
Spanish and Mexican cookery and has prepared most 
of the great feasts of this kind in Southern Cali- 
fornia during the last twenty -five years. 

The bulls' head course was served from the last 
of the barbecue pits to be uncovered. They are a 
great delicacy. Said Chef Eomero: "At the bull 
fights, when the bull is killed, his head is cooked 
and eaten, and is the greatest delicacy known to 
the Spaniard and Mexican. ' ' The bulls ' heads in 
Romero's barbecue pit were cooked so tender that 
the meat just fell from the bones. Six heads were 
cooked for this particular barbecue. This was 
the menu: 

MENUDO 

Carne tatemada — (barbecue beef). 

Borrego rellena — (barbecue lamb, Spanish dress- 
ing). 

Frijole del pais- — (beans Spanish). 

Carne con chile — (meat with chile). 

Cabesa tademada — (bull heads). 

Tamales Calientes — (hot tamales). 

Fri pas de leche. 

Sarza de chile verde — (green chile sauce). 

Sarza chile Colorado — (red chile). 

Ensaladas. 

Lechugas. 

Berros. 

Ensaladas de papas a la moda del pais. 

Tata huila beve leche con pinole — (Pinole and 
milk). 

Puchitas — (Mexican nic nacs). 

Agua apollinaris. 



A steward who understands buying and the cater- 
ing economies better than h<> docs English gram- 
mar, said, speaking of his marketing: "There 
ain't nothing in bargain stuff." 



A Genuine Atlanta Barbecue 

A notable catering event was the H. M. M. B. A. 
barbecue in Atlanta, at the Cold Springs Cue Club 
grounds: the preparing and' serving of the feast 
directed by H. C. Stockdell. Tables were laid in 
an open pavilion. The cooking was done under a 
shingle roofed structure open on all sides, located 
under the trees only a few steps from the pavilion ; 
and the unctuous smell from the steaming pots and 
roasting carcasses permeated the dining room, giv- 
ing zest to appetite. A description of the pre- 
paring and serving of this barbecue will surely in- 
terest our readers. 

The fire covered the bottom of a brick lined pit 
fifty feet long, by four feet wide, by eighteen 
inches deep. It was constantly replenished with 
live coals from hickory and oak wood bonfires near 
at hand. The cooking is very slow. 

For this barbecue, twenty-four carcasses were 
cooked at one time (about equally divided between 
sheep and hogs, each carcass weighing about forty 
pounds). The carcasses are dressed, and each is 
kept flat by two sapling sticks; one across the 
breast fastened near the knee joints; the other 
across the middle of the split open carcass. 

Two steel rods, each about seven feet long by half 
an inch in diameter, skewer each carcass length- 
wise. And these rod's, supporting the carcasses, 
are placed crosswise of the pit, so that the car- 
casses are suspended about eighteen inches over 
the fire. 

The cooking began at four o'clock in the morn- 
ing, and two negroes were kept busy for nine hours 
turning and basting. The turning is done with a 
man on each side taking the rods as handles and 
turning the carcasses over, one after the other, for 
the length of the pit, and basting according to 
judgment. 

The basting liquor is made of sliced lemons, 
vinegar and sweet milk — either boil the milk and 
add the vinegar, or boil the vinegar and add the 
milk — the quantities of the ingredients governed 
according to the taste of the cook. The basting 
is mostly done toward the end of the cooking. 

For serving: The carcasses are brought to a 
bench at one end of the pit and the cooks chop 
them up with cleavers into portion pieces, which 
are put in tin pans. Over each filled pan is 
strained a little of the basting liquor; and then 
the pans and contents are placed on rods over the 
fire to keep warm until ready to serve. 

The meat is brought to table in the pans and 
dished onto china plates, mutton or pork as the 
guest desires. And the healthy appetite welcomes 
as fine a dish of meat as was ever set before a 
king! 

Meanwhile there is another savory dish — the 
Brunswick Stew — that is cooked in a smaller pa- 
vilion on the far side of the barbecue pit. This 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



191 



Brunswick Stew is the chef d'oeuvre of the feast, 
the capsheaf of good eating. Mr. Stockdell, who 
originated these Atlanta barbecues, and who has 
superintended their preparation since the first one 
was given in 1891 (having served 225,000 meals 
on the club grounds since that time), kindly gave 
us the receipt for its making: 

Two twenty-gallon kettles filled with rich soup 
stock made from 100 lbs. of chickens, cooked well 
done. 

Remove the bones.; run the meat thru a sausage 
grinder; then put it back into the stock with 2 doz. 
three lb. cans of tomatoes ; 2 doz. three lb. cans of 
corn ; 5 gal. of milk, and 10 lbs. of butter. 

Start the cooking at five o 'clock in the morning ; 
stir constantly for about eight hours, or until ready 
to serve. Season to taste with salt and pepper. 
Dish up in tin pans and serve. 

' * If you want this stew for the family, ' ' said 
Mr. Stockdell, "take one chicken, one can of to- 
matoes, one can of corn, milk, butter. If the to- 
matoes have too much acid, so as to curdle the 
milk, you can avoid the curdling by adding a pinch 
or two of soda. I cannot give you directions how 
to secure just the right taste in seasoning. That 
is left solely to the genius and judgment of the 
cook." 

There are other kettles for the basting sauce. 

The relishes consisted of sliced Bermuda onions, 
green peppers and quartered tomatoes. Water and 
(near) beer sufficed for the beverages. 

After the feast a dish of the kidneys was passed 
around as the final delectable mouthful. 



The Quick Service at Norris 

Correspondence from Yellowstone National Parle, 
August, 1912 

More people are fed in a given time at Norris 
Lunch Station than at any other place in the park. 
It is one meal a day only and runs from 11:30 to 
2:30. The bill of fare is the same every day. And 
it is as good eating as there is in the park. The 
day we were there 340 people were served by 15 
waitresses. We were told that some days more 
than 500 are served. General Manager Everett 
invited us behind the scenes to see how they do it: 

The system is down to a fine point. The kitchen 
is small, but compact. Three people were appar- 
ently doing all the work of carving and dishing up 
and garnishing. 

The dining room tables are eight-seat. There 
is a waitress for each table. She keeps it ready 
set for each sitting vith relishes, breads, salads 
and cold meats. 

The lunches are served in courses. So soon as 
guests are seated the waitress goes to the kitchen 
for the soup. She is given a tureen holding eight 
portions. This is placed on an aluminum tray 
with eight hot soup plates. She takes this to her 



station in the dining room and dishes from the 
tureen into the soup plates. The tureens are re- 
turned to the kitchen, and she calls for eight din- 
ners (or for as many as may be seated at her 
table). Meanwhile the carver and disher-up are 
busily filling plates with the meat and vegetables 
and decorating with the bit of garnish. The plates 
are placed on trays, inspected, and served. 

The urns are in the dining room and the bever- 
ages are served quickly to order. The dessert is 
also to order, vvith choice of pudding or pie. 

Patrons enter the dining room from the lobby, 
tickets taken up at the door, and they leave the 
dining room by side entrance to the coach landing. 
It takes less than half an hour to a sitting in- 
cluding all the work of clearing the tables and re- 
setting. 

In the kitchen there are abundant facilities for 
hot plates. We enquired of one of the kitchen men 
if there was much come-back. "Not enuf to feed 
one bear, ' ' he replied. 



Table d'Hote-a la Carte Card 

In Hotel Maryland (Milwaukee) the dinner 
menu and the a. la carte bill are printed on the 
same-sized card and list exactly the same dishes 
each day. The only difference between them is 
that the table d'hote dinner card is headed "Sev- 
enty-five Cents, ' ' and can be ordered from without 
restriction; while the a. la carte card has every 
item priced separated, so the diner can order from 
it and pay for only what he orders. 

Said Mr. Hadfield: "With the a. la carte card 
there is no waste. The person who orders from it 
is careful to select only according to appetite or 
purse; and the checks from the a la carte card 
average much less than the seventy-five cents 
charged for dinner from the unrestricted menu. 
But I make more profit from the a la carte checks 
than from the table d'hote meals. I have given 
this matter close study and figured it out that the 
person who orders from the unrestricted card is 
very apt to order more than he needs; and if you 
foot up the items he orders, as priced on the a la 
carte bill, it will average much more than seventy- 
five cents. But the rational eater can (and does), 
from the a la carte bill, order a satisfying dinner 
that usually costs him less than if he ordered from 
the unrestricted card. ' ' 



Bad cooking means waste at table. 
Cultivate the art of salad making. 



The better the food the less the waste. 



Much pure food is spoiled in vile kitchens. 



Acquire the "know how" in your business. 
Try ever so hard to stop the waste of good food. 



192 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



DUAL PLAN: A COMPARISON 



Extracts from a Paper Bead by Geo. 0. Taylor 

of Hotel Euffner, Charleston, Before the West 

Virginia Hotel-keepers' Association. 

[At the time Mr. Taylor delivered this address 
he conducted the Euffner on the dual plan. Since 
that time he has changed it to European plan 
only.] 

* * * The subject of supplies you all 
should be familiar with, as the most of you have 
been in business long enough to know what to 
buy and how to # buy. 

As to the dual plan, I know very little about 
it. Only during the past year have I engaged 
in it. The dual plan was first introduced into 
West Virginia by Mr. Gazley at the "Waldo, 
Clarksburg. Before its introduction in this state 
we hotel keepers had been living a quiet and 
peaceful life, giving the poor traveling man as 
little as we could and charging him all we 
could get. The next one to try the dual plan 
was A. C. Lawrence at the Hotel Kanawha, in 
this city; next L. E. Smith followed in the foot- 
steps of Lawrence; the next one was myself, 
and then "Dick" O'Neal in the Frederic at Hun- 
tington. The only wise one in the bunch was 
E. B. Carney at the Hotel Windsor at Wheeling, 
when he cut out the American plan and went on 
the European plan exclusively. 

To me the dual plan is a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. 
Hyde business. As the Irishman says, it is 
"nayther haer nur thair, " and reminds me of 
the story of an old nigger mammy who said, 
"Massa John, I am gwine to get divorcement." 
' ' Why Angelina ! Why are you going to get a 
divorce?" "Massa John, I'se jus' natchully los' 
my taste fur dat man." And that is the way 
with me — I have naturally lost my taste for the 
hotel business on the dual plan; it must be one or 
the other. 

Now, take a house count of 102 people, 59 
on the American plan and 43 on the European 
plan. The total house count would make you 
a profit on either plan: but divided you are 
losing money on the American plan and not 
milking enough on the European to make up the 
loss on the American plan. The rooms American 
plan average you for room and board $2.84; 
on the European plan rooms alone $1.6.3. The 
cob! per capita American plan for the raw ma- 
terial on the house count given is 57 cents; the 
average price, 75 cents per meal, leaves you 18 
cents for your cooks, waiters, rent, insurance, 
light, water, etc. Is there anything in it? On 
the European plan per capita per meal is 28 
cents, receipts 62 cents, showing a profit of fifty 



per cent for your fixed charges. Now put it 
all on the European plan and the per cent will 
be more. 

Mr. Taylor then presented figures showing 





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GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



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four days' actual business at the Euffner on the 
dual plan, separating the American from the Eu- 
ropean plan figures. 

[To make his remarks on this point more clear 
we have put them in tabulated form, separating 
the different items, so as to be more readily seen. 
See illustrations.] 

Note the tabulation of the American plan ex- 
hibit for November 26: Forty-two in the house 
overnight, 12 left before breakfast, no arrivals 
before breakfast, only 30 for breakfast; 5 left 
before dinner, 7 arrived before dinner, only 32 
for dinner; 8 left before supper, 24 arrived be- 
fore supper, 48 for supper: a total of 119 meals 

served. The issues cost $64.94 119 divided 

into 64.94 shows a quotient of 55 cents per capita 

for feeding Note: The figures 119 meals 

served instead of 110 (actual summing up of the 
three meals) mean that nine meals are added for 
day boarders. This nine extra appears in the 
illustration in the * ' total meals ' ' footings for all 

of the days. 

* * * 

Now note the European plan exhibit: On the 
26th, 39 people in the room overnight. The rooms 
averaged $1.62; the issues cost $19; the number 
of people served in the restaurant 65; the res- 
taurant receipts $51.90. 

The total of four days shows issues $106.28; 
304 people received; receipts $240.45; per capita 

on cost 35 cents; per capita on receipts 79 cents. 

* * * 

Take a loin of beef weighing 50 pounds, 
costing 12 1 / 4 cents per pound, $6.25; cut it into 
steaks for the American plan and you have 
twenty sirloin steaks, twelve tenderloin and 
twenty-four round steaks; or a forty-nine-pound 
loin, costing $6.13, cuts 11% pounds bone, 4 
pounds tenderloin, 15 pounds round, 5% pounds 
sirloin, 9 pounds helps' meat, and 3 pounds suet. 

Mr. Taylor next dissected bills of fare of the 
Kanawha and Euffner Hotels, taking cards from 



which guests had ordered, and counted the cost 
of the raw material to supply actual orders as 
checked off from these bills of fare. One of 
these (an exhibit from the Kanawha) was: 

Blue point cocktail, cost 3c; salted almonds, 
2c. ; green sea turtle soup, 3c. ; celery, 3c. ; olives, 
pin money pickles, cucumbers, 5c; boiled Phila- 
delphia capon, 5c; fresh lobster, Newberg, in 
pattie, 8c ; peach meringue au maraschino, 3c ; 
New York cider, lc ; cardinal punch, champagne 
wafers, 2c; mashed potatoes, cauliflower in cream, 
5c ; baked young turkey stuffed, cranberry 
sauce, asparagus tips on toast, 8c ; brussel 
sprouts, 5c ; English plum pudding, 5c ; lemon 
eclairs, 2c; bisque ice cream, 5c; roquefort 
cheese, 2c; cafe noir, 2c This makes a total 
of 69c, and adding 8c for the service, makes 
a total of 77c 

Another in these (an exhibit from the Euff- 
ner) was: Caviar on toast 6c; Mo jack Bay 
oysters, 4c; planked white fish, brown butter, 
5c; sliced cucumbers, 5c; prime ribs of beef 
au jus, 10c; green peas, 2c; roast young tur- 
key with dressing, cranberry sauce, 8c ; stuffed 
young pig, apple sauce, 5c ; browned sweet 
potatoes, 3c ; Thanksgiving punch, 2c ; fried 
rabbit, country style, cream gravy, 4c ; lobster 
mayonnaise, 12c ; steamed plum pudding, 4c ; 
hot mince pie, 3c ; nesselrode ice cream, 4c ; 
charlotte russe, 4c; roquefort cheese, 2c; tea, 
3c This figures up 86c, and the service, 8c, 
makes a total of 94c, at the lowest possible cost. 

Mr. Taylor also read off several orders from 
breakfast and supper bills of fare, showing the 
same extravagance of the guest and the wasteful- 
ness and loss for the hotel. 

Mr. Taylor also took up the matter of shrink- 
age in supplies between purchasing in the market 
and serving on the table. For illustration he 
took a turkey; weighed it alive; killed it and 
drained out the blood and weighed it again; 
took off its feathers and weighed it again; cut 



194 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



off its head and feet and weighed it again; then 
dressed it and weighed it again, and then figured 
up what the meat cost per pound. 

Loss on fat turkey in dressing, dry picked: 

Live weight, 14 lbs. 13 oz. 

Weight after bleeding, 14 lbs. 4 oz. ; loss, 3 4-5 
per cent. 

Weight after picking, 13 lbs. 6 oz. ; loss, 9% 
per cent. 

Weight after cutting head and feet, 12 lbs. 6 
oz. ; loss IQV2 per cent. 

Weight after full dressed, 10 lbs. 11 oz. ; loss 
27 6-7 per cent. 

Weight after freezing sixty days, 10 lbs. 4 oz. ; 
loss 30 4-5 per cent. 

Live weight 14 lbs. 13 oz., at 12 cents per 
pound, cost $1.78; full dressed, ready for the 
oven, cost about 17 cents per pound. 

Now, gentlemen, you can test out what it is 
costing you even on canned fruit for dessert. 
Two of the best hotel men in the country did 
these things, and one amassed a fortune of over 
a million dollars by his close attention to the 
little details and economies in the kitchen. 

Do not be afraid to go in the kitchen. Watch 
the back door and not push the bar so much, 
and you will come out better at the end of the 
year. 



For world-wide importance there is no business 
that takes precedence of the feeding business. 



The Essence of Hospitality 

The essence of hospitality is to break bread 
and drink wine in fellowship. The pleasure of 
business is largely in buyer and seller eating and 
drinking together as friends. The enjoyment of 
life depends in great measure on the pleasures 
of the table; the relishing day by day, from in- 
fancy to old age, of the nutritious foods and 
drinks that Mother Nature provides for our ra- 
tional use. There is a whole lot in life besides 
eating and drinking; but, without fuel in the body, 
life itself is impossible. In the great scheme of 
creation, nutrition is uppermost. And, in the 
highest civilizations, from the hut of the peasant 
to the palace of the king, there comes with the 
daily meal a thankfulness for the sustenance and 
the enjoyment it brings. 



"Or" on Menu Means "Prevent Waste" 

That little word "or" sandwiched in the table 
d'hote and American plan menus, does not mean 
that the hotelkecper is Btingy, but that the diner is 
expected to order without entailing waste of good 
food. When the word ' ' or ' ' appears on the menu 
as affording a choice of dishes, the portions served 
arc supposed to be larger than obtained without 
fiis rest ii<t ion or limitation. It has been demon- 
strated in many hotels that patrons can lie served 
better meals, and more economically, when there 
is a limitation put upon the number of dishes that 
may be ordered for a stated price per meal. 



Introduction of machinery into the kitchens has 
cut down the scullery work one-half in the last 
ten years. 



The brainiest people use the simplest language. 
Let your bill of fare reflect brains. Print it in 
the simplest language. 



Every steward and chef should understand how 
to provide the balanced ration ; which means, how 
to properly compile a table d'hote menu. 



Carving, the old time gentleman's art, should 
be mastered by everyone aspiring to the position 
of steward. It takes a smart man to become a 
skillful carver. 

In a well ordered hotel neither the clerk, nor 
the cook, nor any employe is permitted to smoke 
or chew tobacco while on duty. Gum chewing 
also is tabooed. 



A steward who believes that the best work can 
be done Avith the least noise, said : "I am par- 
ticular to have silence in the kitchen, so that the 
caller can be heard and the answer can be heard 
distinctly. The noisy kitchen is prolific of mis- 
takes between the waiters and the cooks. ' ' 



The management of a hotel that once a year or 
oftener pays the expenses of its steward, head- 
waiter and chef, for a tour of inspection of the 
service of other hotels, with the object of better- 
ing the home service invariably accomplishes this 
end. 



A prominent chef who, by invitation, addressed 
the Chicago Stewards' Club, advocated equipping 
kitchens with more labor saving devices. ' ' It cuts 
down the hands and expedites the work" he said. 
1 ( It is better for the proprietor, the cooks, and the 
patrons, when unskilled labor in the kitchen is re- 
duced to the minimum. ' ' 



1 ' Keep veal off the bill of fare, ' ' said Mr. 
Mars, of Kansas City, at the Missouri-Kansas- 
Oklahoma convention. He voiced the most likely 
solution of the high price of beef problem. Farm- 
ers won 't kill calves if there is no market for veal. 
Let the calves grow into beef, . and make beef 
more plentiful. Then there won't be any neces- 
sity for importing beef from Argentine. 



Strange how delicacies are born. Many of the 
popular foods of today were scarcely known a 
few years ago. On the Pacific coast, for instance, 
the sanddab, now a most popular delicacy in the 
fish line, was, less than thirty years ago, looked 
upon as a vermin fish, unfit for human food. The 
tomato, now of practically universal consumption, 
was almost unknown to our grandparents. The 
great big baked potato, which Titus has made 
t anions on the Northern Pacific, was used for hog 
feed up to ten years ago. And so it is with many 
other things now flooding the markets that a few 
years ago were not even dreamed of as likely food 
staples. 






GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



19.1 



Home Made Egg Candling Device 

In the kitchen of the Tulane, we noticed one of 
the cleverest home-made devices for improving 
the egg cookery service that we have yet seen. It 
is the invention of Steward Arthur L. Barker. On 
a post directly over the egg boiler he has fastened 




a gallon tomato can with a hole about three inches 
in diameter in the exposed end, and a space cut 
out from the side of the can large enough to ad- 
mit an incandescent bulb, the flap of tin bent up- 
ward to shade the bulb. Suspended alongside the 
can is an incandescent light. When a waiter gets 
an order for boiled eggs, he inserts the bulb in the 
can at the side aperture, turns on the light, picks 
an egg from a basket to the right of the egg boiler, 
holds it in front of the round hole in the end of 
the can, and candles it with the aid of the incan- 
descent light behind the hole. If the egg is not 
good, it is passed to a basket to the left of the 
boiler ; if it is good, it goes into the boiler. The 
accompanying rough drawing will, perhaps, give 
a better idea of this unique egg-candling device. 



Garde Manger Work Table in Hotel Rome, 

The most ingenious article of kitchen equipment 
is the work table for the garde manger. This is 
built as shown (end view) in the accompanying 
crude illustration, the explanation of which can, 
perhaps, be best made with a key of figures: 

" 1 ' ' is where the cook works. 

"2" where the waiter comes to fill his tray. 

The table is built to expedite the work of both 
cook and waiter. The main table is partitioned 
off in the center with dead board " 3, ' ' so that the 
cook's work table, "4," to the right, and the 
waiters' tray rest, "5," to the left, are separated 
with dead board partition. 




Under the cook's table is a drawer, "6. ,: 

"7" is an open space, front and ends, with 
only supporting post's for the shelf above. 

The shelf, ' ' 8, " extends a short distance out 
over the cook's work table, and is the common 
slide for the cook to pass what the waiter asks 
for out to him, as cold meats, oysters, salads, etc. 
The space between this and the top shelf, "9," is 
all open except for the supports. 

The top shelf is used by the cook for his gar- 
nishings, fixings, etc., and is shielded from the 
waiter by the dead board partition ' ' 10. ' ' In this 
way the waiter can only take such things as the 
cook passes to him, and the cook has complete con- 
trol of his own work and service. 

"11" is a swill pail, kept under the table for 
the use of the cook. 



How Fabacher's Creole Gumbo Soup Is Made 

In the center of Fabacher's (New Orleans) 
kitchen is a group of big kettles, and from the 
largest of them, a forty-gallon vessel, came an 
appetizing odor that brought from the writer a 
few leading questions. Chef Munz said that in 
this kettle he was making the famous Creole 
Gumbo Soup, for whicli the house is known, and 
that he made a big kettleful every day. This 
soup he starts with a roux foundation of ham, 
bacon, tomatoes, and flour. The ingredients con- 
sist principally of: 

4 gallons of oysters. 

3 dozen crabs. 

1 gallon of shrimps. 

2 gallons of tomatoes. 

4 gallons of okra. 

3 gallons of chicken necks and wings. 

10 ham bones, a quantity of rice and some other 
articles that we forget. 

He said there is no beef used in it. 



196 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



CHEF SEYL'S SECRET 



The Palmer House, Chicago, is noted for the 
general excellence of its cuisine, and, in particu- 
lar, for the superior service in the way of vege- 
tables. One can always depend upon what he 
orders at the Palmer. It will come to table like 
he had it in that hotel before, and he will always 
enjoy it, provided he is capable of enjoying prop- 
erly cooked foods. 

The convention of the Vegetable Growers of 
America in Chicago last month prompted us to 
interview Joseph Seyl, chef of the Palmer House, 
who has held this position more than forty years, 
and to learn from him the secret of the uniform 
quality of the Palmer House cuisine. 

Mr. Seyl is seventy-five years of age. He loves 
his work. He is on duty every day, and super- 
vises the big kitchen of the hotel with the same 
activity and spirit that has always characterized 
him. 

"What is the secret 1 ?" he answered to our en- 
quiry. "It is paying attention to the smallest 
thing. We cannot please continuously, except all 
the work of the kitchen is done conscientiously. 
The vegetables receive equal attention with the 
meats. Our success is in great measure due to so 
few changes among the employes. We have vege- 
table girls who have been employed here a long 
time. They know their duties thoroly, and the 
work is done right. It is not good policy to have 
many changes among the employes. 

"Vegetables are scarce. They tell me it is due 
to dry season and other causes. The vegetable 
growers naturally want to produce the finest 
crops, but they are handicapped by weather, in- 
sect pests and other drawbacks that they have to 
contend with. This year we have very poor tur- 
nips, and not much cabbage. In fact, everything 
seems short. 

"We sell a great many vegetables, in particular 
potatoes, cabbage, spinach, string beans, sweet 
potatoes, peas, asparagus and cauliflower. There 
is not much call for turnips, carrots, parsnips, 
oyster plant, egg plant. 

"Yes, people eat altogether too much meat. It 
would be better for them if they ate more vege- 
tables. There is no good excuse for eating meal 
three times a day. Everybody eats vegetables; 
rybody likes them, and we should see that they 
'jfl them in the best possible manner. 

"Yes, vegetable dinners are popular; but they 
should be served in a different way from what is 
now customary. They should be entirely sepa- 
rate, each kind of vegetable from the other, when 
served at table. I like the use of the large platter 
with several compartments; that keeps the vege- 
tables properly separated." 



Mr. Seyl, notwithstanding his age, is hearty, 
active, clear-eyed, and his cheeks have the glow 
of health. We asked him regarding his own food 
and habits of eating. He said: "I am moderate 
in my eating. I eat very little meat and never 
more than once a day. For breakfast I usually 
have one small rasher of bacon and one egg. I am 
fond of soup, rice, potatoes, and most vege- 
tables." 



Increasing the business of a country hotel 

Chas. G. Moore, The Windermere, Chicago: — 
When motoring to Lake Geneva, the other day, 
needed repairs to the machine caused my wife 
and I to stop over night at the Woodstock Hotel 
in Woodstock, 111. The room to which we w r ere 
assigned was inexpensively furnished, but very 
clean. When we entered the dining room for 
supper the waitress called off steak, ham and 
eggs, and the usual country hotel selection when 
offered without printed menu. We ordered steak. 
It came to table in very appetizing way, the 
meat of extra good quality and cooked to per- 
fection. We were asked during the meal if we 
required more of this or that which had been 
ordered. For breakfast the same selection was 
offered. 

We were so pleased with the cuisine that, on 
our return journey, we stopped for another meal ; 
and again the same selection was offered. This 
prompted me to get acquainted with the pro- 
prietor. I asked her how she could afford to 
serve such good meals for fifty cents, and why 
the menu was always the same 1 ? She replied that 
she had an arrangement with a neighboring' 
butcher to supply her with cuts of a certain size, 
kind, and quality; that he carried them for her 
at call ; that she carried a minimum of supplies 
in her larder; and that by selling good meals, she 
brought compliments and trade. Her house is 
nearly always full. The same menu, served to 
transients, seemed to give general satisfaction. 

I went out into her kitchen. Everything was 
spotlessly clean. She prepares the meals to order, 
and does not confine to regular meal hours. It 
is this catering to accommodate the traveling 
public that is bringing to the Woodstock Hotel 
more business than to the average country hotel 
similarly located. The proprietor's name is Mrs. 
Caldwell. 



The chef who smokes in the kitchen sets a 
bad example for his assistants. 

The loquacious employe wastes the time of 
himself and his fellow employes. 

It is the waste of spoiled food that makes 
the unskilled cook expensive to employ. 



GLEANINGS FROM THE HOTEL MONTHLY 



197 



TO POPULARIZE VEGETABLES 



Address read before the Vegetable Growers' 
Association of America. 

The growers of vegetables should be very much 
interested in the crusade to popularize vegetables 
on hotel and restaurant bills of fare, and in the 
efforts to obtain a more careful preparation and 
more appetizing service of vegetables in public 
dining rooms. 

There is no other influence so potent for popu- 
larizing vegetables as that of the caterer who 
serves them at table for a price. He puts vege- 
tables in competition with meat dishes. He, by 
giving particular attention to vegetables, can 
greatly increase their sale in public dining rooms ; 
and, indirectly, their consumption in the homes of 
the people; since the hotel and restaurant cook- 
ing, especially of the more appetizing and tasty 
dishes, is copied in the homes. 

Heretofore, vegetables served in the public din- 
ing rooms have, as a rule, been neglected. Their 
preparation has been entrusted to the lower 
classes of kitchen help, and the skilled cooks 
have devoted their chief attention to meats. 

The present high prices of meats, and, for that 
matter, of most foods, has necessitated a wider 
selection and a more general use of the humbler 
vegetables. And the wholesome and nutritious 
vegetables have only to be properly introduced 
to consumers to give them the welcome reception 
they are entitled to. 

In Chicago, at the present time, nearly every 
public dining room of consequence lists on its 
bill of fare a "vegetable dinner." This is a big 
step toward popularizing vegetables, but is not 
altogether satisfactory, because the manner of 
serving gives the idea, most generally, of a vege- 
table hash. 

"What is needed is for the vegetables to be pre- 
pared separately; to be served separately, and 
to permit the enjoyment of the peculiar flavor 
of each separate vegetable. 

Hazen J. Titus, superintendent of the North- 
ern Pacific dining car system, has done wonders 
with great big potatoes, which, only a few years 
ago, were served to hogs. These he uses hundreds 
of tons of every year, serving them in appetiz- 
ing manner on the dining cars as an advertise- 
ment. Several other big dining car systems have 
followed suit, specializing baked potatoes. These 
are in direct competition with meats. 

There is equal opportunity for the specializing 
of squashes of various kinds, carrots, parsnips, 
peas, beans, lettuce, onions; in fact, the entire 
gamut of the vegetable kingdom. 

Several years ago I had occasion to search for 
a cook book devoted to vegetables, and was unable 



to find one in print. It occurred to me that such 
a book could be most valuable in varying the 
menu; steering people away from the excess of 
meats, and substitute, in great measure, the vege- 
tables that make for good health. So I asked an 
expert on vegetable preparation to write a book 
on the subject. He did so, and this book today 
is doing a great missionary work in hotels and 
restaurants. It is hoped to extend this influence 
more directly to families, who are now only in- 
directly benefited from it. 

The vegetable grower is not a vegetarian, any 
more than the cattle raiser is, nor does he preach 
vegetarianism. He enjoys meats, as do practi- 
cally all robust, full-blooded people; but this is 
no reason why he, or any one, should live largely 
on meats when the soil is so prolific of nutritious 
vegetable foods. 



A first-class workman is handicapped with make- 
shift tools. 



The honest employe is not afraid of a check- 
ing system. 



A dish of good meat is often spoiled with a 
poor sauce. 



The dish of hifalutin' name seldom satisfies the 
hearty eater. 



Feature more of the nourishing foods and less 
of the delicacies. 



Cold is of equal importance with heat in modern 
kitchen economics. 



A satisfactory mechanical cold storage plant is 
a good investment. 

Only by eye-service can kitchen and dining room 
waste be minimized. 



The mouthy employe is out of place in a good 
hotel, front or back. 

Mongrel French has almost entirely disappeared 
from the menu cards. 



The loquacious employe wastes the time of him- 
self and his fellow employes. 



No first class hotel will tolerate an employe 
who is scurrilous in his speech. 



The main object of a checking system is to 
eliminate the grafter and the thief. 



The real cost of high living 

EXTEAVAGANCE 



A tour of observation of other hotels in other 
cities once in a while is good for the manager, 
clerk, steward, headwaiter and chef. 



198 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



Afternoon tea, Reiter 188 

A la, down with the 20 

A la, a roast for 167 

A la carte sirloin, to cut 14 

A la carte — table d'hote card 191 

A la carte tenderloin, to cut 10 

American plan report sheet, Taylor. 192 
Astor Hotel kitchen, New York 133 

Baby spring lamb (Illustration) .... 57 

Baby spring lamp, test of 58 

Bacon, cutting 42 

Bacon, Irish, Westphalia, Canada, 43 
Bacon strip, standard, made from 

barrow hog (illustration) 43 

Bacon tests 43 

Barbecue, a genuine Atlanta 190 

Barbecue, a Spanish-American . . . . 190 

Bass, black 92 

Beaver, roast 60 

Beef 6 

Beef a la mode; prepared for pot 

roast (illustration) 77 

Beef, boiled 33 

Beef brains 68 

Beef brisket, boned, (illustration).. . 34 

Beef carcass (diagram) 6,30 

Beef carcass in market cuts; in small 

cuts (tables) 6 

Beef, carving roast 79 

Beef, clod of, from shoulder (illus.) . 35 

Beef, corned, pickle for 35 

Beef cuts 9 

Beef dried 34 

Beef fore-quarters ; hind-quarters; 

in small cuts 7 

Beef, half hind shank of (illus.) 33 

Beef, hams of 37 

Beef hearts 34 

Beef kidneys 67 

Beef lips 34 

Beef loin, color markings in 8 

Beef loin, to cut up 8 

Beef rib prepared for roasting (illus.) 31 

Beef, roast 29 

Beef round, test on, 110 lbs 28 

Beef shanks 32 

Beef shank, from fore-quarter (illus.) 33 

Beef sirloin, larded 76 

Beef sweetbreads 67 

Beef tenderloin (illustrated) 11 

Beef tenderloin, larded 76 

Beef tongues 34 

Beef, top and bottom and kernel 

pieces of round 36 

Being purified, officially 150 

Berkshire English chop, the 56 

Berkshire mutton chop, garnished 

(illustration) 56 

Berries, fresh, for pies and puddings 

all year 178 

Big mouth black bass (illustration) . 92 
Biltmore Hotel, New York, kitchen. 120 
Black bass, big mouth; small mouth 

(illustrations) 92 

Black sea bass (illustration) 92 

Blackhawk, Davenport, kitchen. . .142 

Blackstone, Chicago, kitchen 145 

Blocked and tied horseshoe part of 

ham for roasting (illustration).. . . 90 
Blocking leg of lamb for carving 

(illustration) 88 

Bluefish (illustration) 95 



INDEX 



Blue smelt (illustration) 97 

Boiled beef 33 

Boiled dinner, Southern 42 

Boiled down cook book idea 160 

Boned beef brisket (illustration). . . . 34 

Boned beef computations 37 

Boned fowl; filling 101 

Boned sirloin strip (illustration). ... 15 
Boned and stuffed squab (illus.) .... 73 
Boned and tied back of ham for 

roasting (illus.) 90 

Boned and tied fresh ham (illus.).. . 41 
Boned and tied shoulder of veal 

(illustration) 65 

Boned turkey prepared for boiling 

(illustration) 101 

Boned turkey, slice of (illustration) . 101 
Boneless loin butt (illustration) .... 24 

Boneless sirloin butt 23 

Boning a loin strip 13; (illustration) 14 
Boning sirloin strip, finishing process 

(illustration) 15 

Boss, the right kind of 176 

Boston pork butt (illustration) 38 

Bottom piece of beef round (illus.).. 36 
Brains, calves, beef, sheep, pigs .... 68 
Braised beef short loin (illustration) 76 
Bread cutting board, Hotel Bentley . 170 

Break joint, the, in lamb 58 

Breast of game 75 

Breast of guinea hen trimmed for 

cooking (illustration) 74 

Breast of lamb, cooked, boned and 

pressed (illustration) 88 

Breast or supreme of chicken(illus.) . 73 
Breast of veal, ready for cooking . . 65 

Breslauer steak 22 

Brigand's feast, the 27 

Brine system, or direct expansion. .175 
Brisket, boned beef (illustration) ... 34 
Brisket from sheep carcass (illus.) . . 52 
Broiler chicken, best weight for. . . . 73 

Brook trout 94 

Busses, notice to, Reiter 188 

Butcher the rib, to 29 

Butcher shop, the William Penn.. . . 159 

Butcher a spring lamb, to 57 

Butchering a sheep 50 

Butchering the veal carcass 62 

Butchering a yearling lamb 59 

Butt, boneless sirloin 23 

Butt, loin 13 

Butt, steak, oblong, triangle (illus.) . 25 

Butt, steak piece (illustration) 24 

Butt, trimmed from sheep loin (illus.)55 

Butt, trimmings from loin 25 

Butter, Prof. McCormack on 168 

Butter service, Hotel Adelphia 170 

Butterine, Prof. McCormack on. . . . 168 

Butterfish (illustration) 98 

Button, the, in beef loins 8 

Buying of hotel supplies, Tellman. .178 

Calves' brains 68 

Calf's foot, to bone , .. .. 66 

Calf's foot jelly 67 

Calf's foot jelly, foundation of 66 

Calf's head, to bone 66 

Calf's head and feet (illustration).. . 66 



Calf's livers 68 

Calf's sweetbreads 67 

California crab (illustration) 99 

California hams 45 

Cans, garbage, how filled 110 

Capon 70 

Capon, carving roast 86 

Capon, planked boned leg of (illus.) . 69 

Carcass, beef 30 

Carcass, beef (diagram) 6, 30 

Carcass, beef in market cuts (table) 6 
Carcass beef in small cuts (table) ... 6 

Carcass, mutton (diagram) 49 

Carcass, pork (diagram) 38 

Carcass, sheep (diagram) 49-50 

Carcass, test on live, 1250 pounds. . 28 

Carcass, veal (diagram) 61 

Carp ; 99 

Carver, the keen-eyed 181 

Carving chicken fricassee (illus.) ... 87 

Carving guinea fowl 87 

Carving mutton 90 

Carving roast beef (illustrated) 79 

Carving roast capon (illustrated) ... 86 
Carving chicken, garde manger dept. 69 
Carving roast duck 84; (illustration) 85 

Carving roast goose (illus.) 82, 83 

Carving roast hams 89 

Carving roast pig 89 

Carving roast pork 88 

Carving roast spring chicken (illus.) 85 

Carving roast turkey 80 

Carving roast veal 88 

Carving spring lamb 87 

Carving whole Virginia ham (illus.) . 89 

Catfish (illustrated) 97 

Channel catfish (illustration) 97 

Charges, cold storage 178 

Chateau Laurier, Ottawa, kitchen. . 138 

Chateaubriand steak 23 

Chateaubriand tenderloin (illus.) ... 23 

Cheek meat 41 

Cheese, Prof. McCormack on 168 

China washing department, Daven- 
port Hotel, Spokane (illus.) 132 

Chicken, best weight for broiler .... 72 
Chicken, best weight for roasting. . . 72 
Chicken, breast of spring trimmed 

for supreme of chicken (illus.) 73 

Chicken breast (trimmed for cold) 

(illustration) 69 

Chicken, to carve, garde manger 69 
Chicken fricassee, carving (illus.) ... 87 

Chicken giblets 73 

Chicken, milk-fed 184 

Chicken, milk-fed roasting 72 

Chicken, prepared for roasting (illus.) 72 
Chinook salmon as purchased (illus.) 93 

Chopped steak 22 

Chops, Berkshire, English 56 

Chops, Devonshire, English 56 

Chops, French 53 

Chops, French, covered; uncovered. 52 

Chops, lamb 55 

Chops, larded veal (illustration) — 78 

Chops, pork, to butcher 40 

Chops, pork, loin end, rib end 40 

Chops, steaks, etc., time required for 

cooking 186 

Chops, veal 64 

Cisco (illustration) 98 

Chuck roll (illustrated) 12 

Chuck tenderloin 12 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



199 



Clod of beef from shoulder (illus.) . . 35 

Closed loin 10 

Club sirloin for four 16 

Club steak, sirloin cut double for 

(illustration) 16 

Codfish; fresh, as purchased(illus) 93, 94 

Coffee making, Vienna way 123 

Cold storage charges 178 

Cold storage hens 69 

Cold storage question, direct expan- 
sion or brine system, which? 175 

Cold storage supplies 75 

Cole slaw, cold slaw, or kohl slaw.. . 169 

Color markings in beef loin 8 

Completed and model trimmed rack 

(illustration) 54 

Computations, boned beef 37 

Consomme refrigeration, Fontenelle.172 

Cook book idea, a boiled down 160 

Cooks' table, Davenport Hotel 128 

Copley-Plaza, Boston, kitchen of. . .127 

Corned beef 35, 182 

Corned beef pickle, formula for ... . 35 

Corned beef, smoked 101 

Country hotel, increasing business of. 196 

Country sausage, to make 39 

Covered lamp chop (illustration) ... 55 

Crabs and lobsters, freeze live 178 

Crabs, soft shell, and oysters, habits. 185 

Crappies (illustration) 96 

Cream, Prof. McCormack on. ..... 168 

Creole gumbo soup, Fabacher's. . . .195 

Croutons, to make (illustration) .... 75 

Curtain steak 12 

Cut, money 12 

Cuts, beef; loin 9 

Cuts, standard mutton 49 

Cutting the short ribs 30 

Dasheens (illustrated) 100 

Davenport Hotel, Spokane, kitchen. 128 
Delicatessen store, Hotel Sherman. 151 

Deutscher ochsen maul salat 34 

Devonshire English Chop, the 56 

Digestion, good for the 179 

Dining room rules, Reiter 186 

Dining room service, Reiter 188 

Dinner,intermezzo, Hotel Wisconsin 166 
Direct expansion or brine system, 

cold storage 175 

Diseased marrow, to detect 33 

Dishes, explanation of 104-109 

Dishes, suggestions for,mentioned in 
this book: Beef, 104; Chicken, 
109; Lamb,107 and 109; Mutton, 
107; Pork, 106; Veal, 106 and 108 

Dried beef 34 

Dual plan, a comparison, Taylor. . .192 

Ducks 71 

Duck, carving roast 84 

Ducks, Long Island spring 72 

Duck, prepared for roasting (illus.) 71 

Duck, Rhode Island 72 

Duck, trimmed breast of mallard. . . 75 
Dungeness or California crab (illus.) 99 

Earning power, increase the 151 

Economies, speaking of 112 

Eels (illustration) 98 

Egg candling device, home made. . .195 

Eggs, care of 75 

Electric wagon, Davenport Hotel, 

Spokane (illustration) 132 

English, advantage of listing in ... . 20 



English chop, Berkshire, Devonshire 56 

English mutton chop 55 

English mutton chop, Berkshire cut; 

Devonshire cut (illustration) 56 

English mutton chop with kidney 

(illustration) 56 

Epigrames made from pressed lamb 

breast 88 

Espagnole, foundation of 66 

Essence of hospitality, the 194 

European plan report sheet, Taylor. 193 

Explanation of dishes 104-109 

Extra prime tenderloin 11 

Fall or yearling lambs 58 

Famous places to eat 109 

Fifty-fifty 48 

Figures in the restaurant buisness.. .111 

Filet mignon (illustrated) 10 

Filet mignon, larded 76 

Finnan haddie (illustration) 94 

Fish 91 

Fish box designed by J. T. Clyde. . . 177 
Fish box designed by Fred Hall .... 175 

Fish cleaning, tools for 91 

Fixing prices, a system for 13 

Flank steak (illustration) 19 

Flat fricandeau of veal (illustration) 77 
Floor service pantry, William Penn. 158 

Flounder (illustration) 95 

Food preservation 60 

Foods, some simple life 181 

Four-quarters of beef in small cuts 

(table) 7 

Fores, sheep 50 

Fores veal, table ■ 62 

Fort Pitt, Pittsburg, kitchen plan. .151 

Fowl, boned 101 

Freeze live crabs and lobsters 178 

French chop 53 

French chops, covered; uncovered.. 52 
Fresh berries for pies and puddings 

all year 178 

Fresh cod fish as purchased (illus.).. 94 
Fresh ham, boned and tied (illus.) . . 41 

Fresh ham steak (illus.) 41 

Fresh mackerel (illustration) 97 

Fresh pork shanks (illustration) .... 40 
Fresh pork shoulder (illustration).. . 39 
Fresh pork shoulder boned and tied 

for roasting (illustration) 39 

Fresh pork spareribs, half sheets 

(illustration) 40 

Fricandeau or flat piece of veal(illus.) 63 
Fricandeau or noix of veal (illus.) ... 77 
Fricandeau of veal; larded (illus.). . 77 
Fricassee, carving chicken(illus.) ... 87 

Frozen foods, an expert on 175 

Frozen meat question, light on, 

Huntington 176 

Full loin, test on 27 

Full loin test, Hotel Sherman 14 

Full mutton rack (illustration) 53 

Game, 74; breasts of 75 

Game and poultry, larded 74 

Garbage barrel barometer 138 

Garbage cans, kitchen, how filled. . . 110 
Garbage refrigerator, Fontenelle. . . . 172 
Garde manger department, Hotel 
Blackha\vk,144; Davenport Hotel, 
(illus.), 132; Fontenelle, 172; Stat- 
ler-Detroit (illus), 114; William 
Penn 157 



Garde manger refrigeration 101 

Garde manger refrigerator plan, 

Hotel Statler, Detroit 118 

Garde manger work table 195 

Geese 71 

Giblets, chicken 73 

Good for the digestion 179 

Goose, carving roast 82 

Goose, roasting, as purchased (illus.) 71 

Grease, kitchen 110 

Green turtle, live 102 

Grindstones 90 

Guina fowl, carving 87 

Guinea hens; prepared for roasting 

(illustration) 74 

Guttered scrap table, McAlpin. . .114 

Habits of oysters and soft shell crabs. 185 

Haddock (illustration) 94 

Half hind shank of beef (illustration) 33 
Half sirloin; split crosswise (illus.).. 18 
Halibut, 92; as purchased (illus.).. . 93 

Hanging tenderloin 12 

Ham; back, boned, rolled and tied 

(illustration) 41, 44 

Ham, beef 37 

Ham, boned and tied (illustration).. 41 

Ham, to cure 46 

Ham, diagram for cutting ; 43 

Ham, different kinds of 45-46 

Ham, first end slice of (illustration) 44 

Ham, fixed for roasting 90 

Ham, fresh 41 

Ham for the garde manger 46 

Ham hash 44 

Ham hocks, 39; (illustration) 44 

Ham, horseshoe cut of (illustration) 44 

Ham, horseshoe slice of (illus.) 44 

Ham, roast, carving 89 

Ham steak, 45; fresh, (illustration).. 41 
Ham steak, full section & horseshoe 

section cut (illustration) 45 

Ham, Virginia, carving 89 

Hamburger steak 22' 

Hearts, beef 34 

Heifer rib 29 

Help's meat, mutton for 50 

Hens; cold storage 69 

Hens, dressed (illustration) 69 

Hind-quarters beef small cuts (table) 7 

Hinds sheep 50 

Hinds veal (table) 62 

Hocks, ham 39 

Hog, test on, 165 lbs 38 

Horseshoe slice of ham (illus.) 43 

Hospitality, the essence of 194 

Hot plate warming oven, banquets. 170 

Hot sandwiches 90 

Hotel cut loin 25 

Hotel supplies, buying of, Tellman. 178 
Huntington on frozen meat question 176 
Hypocrisy in service 189 

Ice boxes,proper inside construction. 174 

Ice cream, Prof. McCormack on 168 

Ice, unclouded, from raw water. . . . 179 

Increase the earning power 151 

Intermezzo dinner, the 166 

Irish hams 45 

Italian cured hams 45 

Jelly, calf's foot; foundation of. . .66,67 

Joint, the break, in lamp 58 

Jones on meat cuts for profit 183 



200 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



Judging loins and ribs 8 

Jumbo whitefish (illustration) 91 

Keeping track of things, Rogers.. 144 
Kentucky burgoo and barbecue. ... 37 
Kernel of beef round (illustration) . . 36 
Kernel or noix of veal (illustration) . 63 

Kernel of veal (illustrated) 77 

Kidney for English mutton chop. . . 56 

Kidneys, beef; mutton; veal 67 

Kingfish (illustration) 96 

Kitchen garbage cans, how filled. . .110 

Kitchen grease 110 

Kitchen and garde manger depart- 
ment, Statler-Detroit (illus.) ... .114 
Kitchen, Hotel Astor, New York. . . 133 
Kitchen problems solved by machin- 
ery 119 

Kitchen, The Blackstone, Chicago. . 145 
Kitchen of Davenport Hotel, (illus) 128 
Kitchen, the Fort Pitt, Pittsburgh. . 151 
Kitchen, Muehlebach, Kansas City. 123 
Kitchen of Hotel Statler, Cleveland 

(illustration) 135 

Kitchen, Hotel Statler, Detroit 114 

Kitchen, the Wm. Penn, Pittsburg. 155 

Kitchen, Woodruff Inn, Joliet 149 

Kitchen plans, Biltmore, New York.120 

Kitchen plan, the Blackhawk 142 

Kitchen plan, Chateau Laurier 138 

Kitchen plan, the Lamar, Salina. . .157 
Kitchen plan, Statler, Cleveland. . . 136 
Kitchen plan, Hotel Statler, Detroit.116 

Kitchen plan, Hotel Utah 140 

Kitchen views, the William Penn. . . 156 
Knisell, Mr., takes issue with Mr. 

Rivers 112 

Kohl slaw, cold slaw, cole slaw 169 

Knuckles and neck of veal 65 

Lach Schinken 46 

Lake trout (illustration) 94 

Lamar, Salina, Kans., kitchen plan. 167 
Lamb, blocking leg of, for carving 

(illustration) 88 

Lamb, carving spring 87 

Lamb chop; covered (illustration) . . 55 

Lamb, to judge spring 58 

Lamb racks 52 

Lamb, rack of; larded 78 

Lamb rack with model shoulder 

trim (illustration) . . 53 

Lamb steak (illustration) 59 

Lamb sweetbreads 67 

Lamb, test for buying 58 

Lamb, yearling or fall 58 

Lamb, yearling, model cuts of (illus.) 57 

Larded beef sirloin; tenderloin 76 

Larded filet mignon 76 

Larded fricandeau of veal (illus.) ... 77 

Larded game and poultry 78 

Larded half loin of mutton (illus.) . . 78 

Larded kernel of veal (illustration) . 77 

Larded loin of mutton or lamb 78 

Larded loin of veal (illustration) ... 77 

Larded noisettes of veal 77 

Larded poultry and game 78 

Larded rack of lamb (illustrated). . . 78 

Larded rack of veal (illustrated).. . . 78 

Larded sirloin of beef (illustration).. 76 

Larded sweetbreads 78 

Larded tenderloin of beef (illus.) ... 76 

Larded tenderloin mignon (illus.).. . 7fi 

Larded veal chop (illustrated) 78 



Larded whole loin of mutton (illus.) 78 

Lean pork butt (illustration) 39 

Leg from sheep carcass (illustration) 51 

Leg of veal, 62; (test) 64 

Leg of veal, untrimmed, hotel cut 

(illustration) 63 

Lettuce, why loses crispness and 

beans won't pop 169 

Lips, beef 34 

Listing in English, advantage of. . . . 20 

Live crabs and lobsters, freeze 178 

Live green turtle 102 

Livers, calves', sheeps', lambs' 68 

Loaf, veal 66 

Lobsters 101 

Lobsters and crabs, freeze live 178 

Lobster, male and female (illus.) . . . 102 

Log cabin combination, veal 67 

Loin, beef, to cut up 8 

Loin butt, 13; boneless (illus.) .... 24 
Loin butt, trimmings from (illus.) . . 25 

Loin, closed 10 

Loin cut (illustrated) 9 

Loin cut of sheep (illustration) 52 

Loin end steak, small plain 23 

Loin, hotel cut 25 

Loin, long 10 

Loin of mutton 54 

Loin of mutton or lamb, larded. ... 78 
Loin of mutton, larded, whole, half. 78 

Loin, open 10 

Loin, pin bone (table) 25 

Loin, pork, standard 40 

Loin and rib, judging 8 

Loin, St. Nicholas (illustration) .... 26 

Loin, short, the 25 

Loin, smoked pork 40 

Loin, steer (illustrated) 8 

Loin, test on full 28 

Loin test, Hotel Sherman 14 

Loin, test on pin bone 27 

Loin of veal, 64; larded 77 

Loin, whole (table) 25 

Long Island spring ducks 72 

Long loin, the 10 

Machine for chopping meats and 

vegetables Ill 

Mackerel, fresh; Spanish (illus.) ... 97 
Mallard duck, trimmed breast of 

(illus.) 75 

Markets cuts, carcass beef in (table) 6 
Market trimmed lamb rack with 

faulty shoulder trim 53 

Marketing logically 179 

Marrow, 22; diseased, to detect 33 

Marrow sticks 33 

Marrow, veal spinal 67 

Mayonnaise 180 

Maskalonge 97 

Measure for short rib cut, thumb 

(illustration) 30 

Meat cuts for profit, M. M. Jones. . 183 

Meat, an expert on, Maguirc 183 

Meat, packing for individual por.179 
Meat, purchasers should be judge of 7 

Meat slicer, champion 137 

Meat, tag for, Hotel McAlpin .114 

Meat trimmings, limited market for 10 
Mechanical refrigeration for small 

plants 171 

Milk fed roasting chicken (illus.) ... 72 
Milk-fed chicken 184 



Milk, cream, butter, cheese, oleo- 
margarine, butterine, ice cream, 

Prof. McCormack on 168 

Milk-fed veal and sweetbreads 184 

Milk pig (illustration) 46 

Minute sauce 17 

Minute sirloin entree 18 

Model cuts of yearling lamb (illus.) 58 

Money cut 12 

Muehlebach Hotel, kitchen of 123 

Murdock cut mutton 49 

Mutton 49 

Mutton bones 60 

Mutton carcass (diagram) 49 

Mutton carving 90 

Mutton chop, English, kidney(illus.) 56 
Mutton chops, various kinds of. . .55-56 

Mutton for helps' meat 50 

Mutton, to judge quality of 49 

Mutton kidneys 67 

Mutton, loin of 54 

Mutton, loin of half, larded (illus.) . 78 
Mutton rack, 52; to cut (illus.) .... 53 
Mutton rack, trimming a (illus.) ... 54 

Mutton, standard cuts 49 

Mutton, ways of serving 50 

Neck and knuckles of veal 65 

Neck of veal, untrimmed (illus.).. . . 62 

Noisettes of veal, larded 77 

Noix of veal (illustration) 63, 77 

Norris, quick service at 191 

Oblong butt steak (illustration) .... 25 

Ocean pan fish 98 

Oleomargarine, Prof. McCormack on 168 

Open loin 10 

"Or" on menus, prevent waste. . . .194 

Oxtails 34 

Oyster counter, Statler, Detroit. . .118 
Oysters, to open; from end, from 

side (illustration) 100 

Oysters and soft shell crabs,habits.l85 

Packing meat for individual portionsl79 

Panfish, ocean 98 

Pan racks, new style, William Penn . 157 
Pantries, Davenport, Spokane (Illus.) 130 
Pantry, floor service, Wm. Penn.. . .158 
Pantries and waiter service, Astor. 133 

Peanut ham 45 

Perch 95 

Pickerel (illustration) 95 

Pickle for corned beef, formula for. . 35 

Picnic hams 45 

Pig, 20-30 lbs., as prepared (illus.). . 47 

Pigs brains 68 

Pig, carving roast 89 

Pigs' feet 47 

Pigs' livers 68 

Pigs, roasting 46 

Pig shanks or knuckles 39 

Pigs' snouts and tails 48 

Pike 94 

Pin-bone loin (table) 25 

Tin-bone short loin (table) 25; (illus.) 26 

Plain or loin end steak, small 23 

Plan, garde manger refrigerator, 

Statler, Detroit 118 

Plan, grill kitchen, Hotel Biltmore. .122 
Plan, kitchen, the Biltmore, N. Y. .120 

Plan, kitchen, the Blackhawk 142 

Plan, kitchen, the Blackstone 145 

Plan, kitchen, Chateau Laurier. .. 138 
Plan, kitchen, Copley-Plaza, Boston. 127 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



201 



Plan, kitchen, Davenport, Spokane. 129 
Plan, kitchen, Fort Pitt, Pittsburg.. 151 
Plan, kitchen, the Lamar, Salina. . . 167 
Plan, kitchen, Muehlebach Hotel.. . 124 
Plan, kitchen, Statler, Cleveland. . .136 

Plan, kitchen, Statler, Detroit 116 

Plan, kitchen, Hotel Utah 140 

Plan, kitchen, Wlliara Penn 155 

Plan, kitchen, Woodruff Inn, Joliet.149 
Plan, oyster counter, Statler Detroitl 18 
Plan, refrigerator, Statler, Detroit. .119 

Planked boned leg of capon 69 

Planked whitefish (illustration) 91 

Platter of carved roast pork, with 

garnish (illustration) 89 

Plymouth rock capon, as purchased 

(illustration) 70 

Poisoning, ptomaine 110 

Pompano (illustration) ..-...' 98 

Porgie (illustration) 98 

Pork 38 

Pork, carving roast 88 

Pork butt, lean (illustration) 39 

Pork carcass (diagram) 38 

Pork chops, to butcher 40 

Pork chops, loin end, rib end (illus.) 40 

Pork loins; smoked 40 

Pork loin, standard (illus.) 41 

Pork, roast, carving 88 

Pork, salt 42 

Pork shanks or knuckles 39 

Pork shoulder; boned and tied for 

roasting (Illus.) 39 

Pork tenderloins; standard cut; 

French cut (illustration) 42 

Porterhouse steak, 20; (illustration) 21 
Porterhouse steak not suited to sin- 
gle portion 21 

Pot roast, beef a la mode prepared 76 
Pot sinks, new style, Wm. Penn. . . . 155 

Poultry 69 

Poultry and game, larded 78 

Praeger hams 46 

Pressed lamb breast, epigrames 88 

Prices, a system for fixing 13 

Profit, meat cuts for, M. M. Jones. . 183 

Prosciutti hams 45 

Ptomaine poisoning 110 

Purified, officially, being 150 

Quinnat salmon as purchased (illus.) 93 

Quick service at Norris 191 

Quick work 60 

Rack, complete model trimmed 54 

Rack, cut from sheep carcass, 

trimmed (illus.) 51 

Rack of lamb, 52; larded (illus.) ... 78 
Rack, mutton, 52; (illustration) .... 53 

Rack of veal, 64; (illustrated) 78 

Rack of veal, larded 78 

Redsnapper (illustrated) 98 

Refrigeration, 110; Fontenelle 173 

Refrigeration, garde manger 101 

Refrigeration for small plants, me- 
chanical 171 

Refrigerator management, Biltmore.121 
Refrigerator plan, Statler, Detroit. .119 
Refrigerator, vegetable (illustration) 103 
Regular English mutton chop, 
strapped or belted (illustration) . . 56 

Regular roll (illustration) 31 

Reindeer hams 46 



Reiter's school of service 186 

Report sheets, American and Euro- 
pean plan, Taylor 193 

Rhode Island ducks 72 

Rib of beef prepared for roasting 

(illustration) 31 

Rib, to butcher the 29 

Rib, cutting the short 30 

Rib, heifer 29 

Rib and loin, judging 8 

Rib roast (illustrated) 7 

Rib, short 32 

Rib steak (illustration) 19 

Rib, steer 29 

Rib, test on 36 pounds : . . 28 

Rice, wild 78 

Rivers reply to Mr. Knisell 112 

Roast beaver 50 

Roast beef 29 

Roast beef carving 79 

Roast beef test, carve 80 

Roast duck carving 84 

Roast goose carving 82 

Roast hams, carving 89 

Roast pig, carving 89 

Roast pork, carving 88 

Roast, rib (illustrated) 7 

Roast spring chicken carving 85 

Roast spring lamb, platter of (illus.) 88 
Roast turkey carving (illus.) . . 80, 81, 82 

Roast veal carving 88 

Roasting chickens, best weight for. . 73 

Roasting pigs 46 

Roasting a spring lamb 57 

Rock bass (illustration) • 92 

Roe, shad (illustration) 95 

Roll, chuck, illustrated 12 

Rolls, regular and Spencer 30 

Room service, method of keeping 

track of, Reiter 189 

Room service rules, Reiter 186 

Roosters 69 

Round steak 23 

Rules, dining room, Reiter 186 

Rules, room service, Reiter's 186 

Rump steak (illustration) 23 

Saddle cut mutton. 49 

St. Nicholas loin (illustration). 26 

Salisbury steak 22 

Salmon; Chinook; Quinnat, as pur- 
chased (illustration) 93 

Salt pork 42 

Sandwiches, hot 90 

San Francisco, service in 186 

Sanger or sand pike (illustration).. . 94 

Sauce a la minute 17 

Sausage, country, to make 39 

Scales, every kitchen should have. . 14 
Scrap table, guttered, McAlpin. . . .144 

Sea perch, white, (illustration) 98 

Service, butter, -Hotel McAlpin 170 

Service, dining room, Reiter 188 

Service, the high cost of 167 

Service, hypocrisy in 189 

Service pantry, floor, Wm. Penn 158 

Service in San Francisco 186 

Seyl's secret, chef 196 

Shad (illustration) 95 

Shad, Knisell on 112 

Shad roe (illustration) 95 

Shanks, beef 32 

Sheep brains 68 



Sheep, to butcher a 50 

Sheep carcass (diagram) 49 

Sheep carcass, shoulder of, boned 

and tied (illustration) 51 

Sheep carcass in small cuts,50; trim- 
med rack cut from (illustration) 51 

Sheep, fores; hinds 50 

Sheep livers 68 

Sheep loin, butt trimmed from 

(illustration) 55 

Sheep, test of, 90 lbs 53 

Sheep's trotters 60 

Sheepshead (fish) (illustration) 99 

Short loin, the 25 

Short ribs 32 

Short rib cuts, thumb measure for. . 30 
Short ribs tied for European plan 

service (illustration) 32 

Shoulder clod (beef) 37 

Shoulder, fresh pork, boned and 
tied for roasting (illustration) .... 39 

Shoulder hams 45 

Shoulder, pork 39 

Shoulder of sheep carcass, boned and 

tied (illustration) 51 

Shoulder of veal; boned and tied 

(illustration) ; test of 65 

Shoulder of veal, untrimmed, hotel 

cut (illustration) 63 

Side of salt pork (illustration) 42 

Silver cabinet, Davenport (illus.) . .131 

Silver smelt (illustration) 97 

Silver washing department, Daven- 
port Hotel.(illustration) 131 

Silverware, care of, Astor Hotel. ... 133 

Simple life foods, some 181 

Sirloin a la minute 17 

Sirloin of beef, larded 76 

Sirloin butt, boneless 23 

Sirloin, to cut a la carte 14 

Sirloin cut double for club steak 

(illustration) 16 

Sirloin, half 18 

Sirloin, priced on different menus. . . 16 

Sirloin steak for Clyde's feasts 182 

Sirloin steak (illustration) 15 

Sirloin steak, method of severing 

(illustration) 13 

Sirloin strip; boning; boned; (illus- 
trations) 13, 14 

Sirloin, T-bone 19 

Sirloin, three-minute (illustration) . . 19 
Sirloin for two, three, four, to cut. 16 

Skinned ham 45 

Small mouth black bass (illus.) 92 

Small plain or loin end steak 23 

Small tenderloin (illustrated) 10 

Smelt, blue, silver (illustration) .... 97 

Smithfield Virginia ham 45 

Smoked corned beef 101 

Smoked tongue 34 

Smoked pork loins 40 

Soaking tanks for dishwashing .... 137 
Soft shell crabs and oysters.habits. 185 
Sole; a domestic species of (illus.) . . 96 

Southern boiled dinner 42 

Spanish mackerel (illustration) 97 

Spareribs; fresh pork, half sheets 

(illustration) 40 

Speckled brook trout (illustration). . 94 
Spencer roll & regular rolls (illus) 30,31 

Spinal marrow or spinal cord 22 

Split English mutton chop (illus.). . 56 



202 



THE HOTEL BUTCHER, GARDE MANGER AND CARVER 



Split sirloin steak a la minute 

(illustration) 17 

Spouts, clean out the teapot 170 

Spring chicken 72 

Spring chicken, carving roast 85 

Spring chicken prepared for broiling 

(illustration) 72 

Spring lamb; to butcher 57 

Spring lamb, carving 87 

Spring lamb, to judge 58 

Sprouts 110 

Squab, boned and stuffed (illus.) ... 73 
Squab, prepared for broiling (illus.) 73 

Squab, why not popular 74 

Standard pork loin (illustration).. . . 41 
Statler, Cleveland, kitchen (illus.) . . 135 

Statler, Detroit, kitchens 114 

Steak a la tartare 23 

Steak, Breslauer 22 

Steak, Chateaubriand 23 

Steak, chopped 22 

Steaks, chops, etc., time required for 

cooking 186 

Steak, flank (illustration) 19 

Steak, fresh ham (illustration) 41 

Steak, ham, full cut section of (illus.) 45 
Steak, ham, horseshoe cut of (illus.) 45 

Steak, hamburger 22 

Steak, lamb (illustration) 59 

Steak, to mark off for cutting 17 

Steak, method of severing sirloin 

(illustration) 13 

Steak, porterhouse (illustration).. 20, 21 
Steak, porterhouse, not suited to 

single portion 21 

Steak problem, how I solved 9 

Steak, rib, (illustration) 19 

Steak, round (illustration) 23 

Steak, rump (illustration) 23 

Steak, Salisbury 22 

Steak, sirloin (illustration) 15 

Steak, T-bone (illustration) 19 

Steak, tenderloin (illustrated) 12 

Steak, veal 64 

Striped sea bass (Illustration) 92 

Steer loin, a (illustrated) 8 

Steer ribs 29 

Stewards department in theMcAlpin 144 

Stuffing, veal 65 

Suggestions for dishes mentioned in 
this book: Beef, 104; Chicken, 
109; Lamb, 107 and 109; Mut- 
ton, 107; Pork, 106; Veal, 106 & 108 
Supreme, or breast of chicken (illus.) 73 

Sunfish (illustration) 96, 97 

Sweetbreads, beef; calves; lamb. . . 67 

Sweetbreads, larded 78 

Sweetbreads and milk fed veal 184 

Swordfish 99 

Swordfish, Knisell on 112 

Table d'hote— a la carte card, 

Maryland 191 

Tag for meats, Hotel McAlpin 144 

T-bone sirloin 19 

T-bone steak (illustration) 19 

Tea brewed in pitcher 165 

Teapot spouts, clean out the 170 

Temperature 68 

Tenderloin, beef (illustrated ) 11 

Tenderloin of beef, larded (illus.). . . 76 

Tenderloin butt (illustrated) 12 

Tenderloin, chuck 12 



Tenderloin, to cut a la carte 11 

Tenderloin, the different grades. ... 11 

Tenderloin, hanging 12 

Tenderloin, pork; French cut (Illus.) 42 

Tenderloin, pork, standard cut 42 

Tenderloin, small (illustrated) 10 

Tenderloin steak (illustrated) 12 

Tenderloin tips, beef (illustrated). ..11 

Test on baby spring lamb 58 

Test, bacon 43 

Test on beef butt, 27 lbs. (illus.) ... 27 

Test on beef round, 110 lbs 28 

Test for buying lamb 58 

Test on full loin, 66 lbs 27 

Test on full loin, 75 lbs.; 80 lbs.; 

84 lbs 28 

Test on hog, 165 lbs 38 

Test on fresh ham, 10Ji lbs 41 

Test on hams, 14 lbs.; 14 ^ lbs 45 

Test on live carcass, 1250 lbs 28 

Test on pin bone butt, 38y 2 lbs. ... 28 

Test on pin-bone loin, 27 lbs 27 

Test on pin-bone short loin, 42 li lbs. 28 

Test on pork shoulder, 10^ lbs 39 

Test on rib, 36 lbs 28 

Test, roast beef, to carve 80 

Test on sheep, 90 lbs 53 

Test on veal, half carcass, 62 lbs — 62 

Test of yearling lamb 41 lbs 59 

Three-minute sirloin (illus.) 18, 19 

Thumb measure for short rib cut 

(illustration) 30 

Tied short ribs for European plan 

service (illustration) 32 

Time required for cooking steaks, 

chops, etc 186 

Tongues, beef; smoked; veal 34 

Tools for cleaning fish 91 

Top piece of beef round (illus.) 36 

Triangle butt steak (illustration) ... 25 
Trimmed rack from sheep carcass, 

cut from (illus.) 51 

Trimmings, limited market for meat 10 

Trimmings from loin butt 25 

Tripe 68 

Trout, brook; lake; speckled brook 

(illustrations) 94 

Turkey 70 

Turkey, boned for boiling 101 

Turkey, carving 80 

Turkey, prepared for roasting (illus.) 70 
Turkey, slice of boned (illustration) 101 

Turtle, live green 102 

Two-minute sirloin (illustration) ... 18 

Unclouded ice from raw water 179 

Uncovered lamb chop (illustration) 55 
Utah Hotel, Salt Lake City, kitchen.140 

Veal 61 

Veal bones 66 

Veal, boned and tied shoulder of 

(illustration) 65 

Veal, breast of; ready for cooking 

(illustration) 65 

Veal breast, untrimmed (illustration) 63 
Veal carcass, butchering the (dia- 
gram) 61 

Veal carcass in small cut (table). . . . 62 

Veal carcass, three grades. . . 61 

Veal, carving roast 88 

Veal chop (illustration) 64 

Veal chop, larded (illustrated) 78 



Veal fores (table) 62 

Veal, fricandeau of 63 

Veal, fricandeau of (illustration).. . . 77 

Veal hinds (table) 62 

Veal, kernels or noix of (illus.) 63 

Veal kidneys 67 

Veal knuckles and neck 65 

Veal, larded loin of (illustration) ... 77 

Veal leg 62 

Veal, leg of, test 64 

Veal, leg of, untrimmed, hotel cut 

(illustration) 63 

Veal loaf 66 

Veal, loin of 64 

Veal, loin of larded 77 

Veal, loin of, untrimmed (illus.) .... 64 
Veal, neck of, untrimmed (illus.) ... 62 

Veal, noix of (illustration) 77 

Veal, noisettes of, larded 77 

Veal, rack of 64 

Veal, rack of, larded (illustrated) ... 78 
Veal rack, trimmed (illustration) ... 64 

Veal, shoulder of 65 

Veal, shoulder of, untrimmed, hotel 

cut (illustration) 63 

Veal spinal marrow 67 

Veal steak (illustration) 64 

Veal stuffings 65 

Veal, test on half carcass 62 

Veal tongues 34 

Vegetable refrigerator (illustration) . 103 

Vegetables in the kitchen 103 

Vegetables, to popularize 197 

Vermin, never ending fight on 179 

Virginia ham 45 

Virginia ham, carving the 89 

Waiters, information for 134 

Waiter service, Astor Hotel 133 

Waldorf-Astoria kitchen, in the. . . . 127 
Walleyed or yellow pike (illus.) .... 94 
Warming oven hot plate for ban- 
quets 170 

Weakfish (illustration) 96 

Weighing scale, every kitchen should 

have 14 

Westphalia ham 45 

Whitefish; (jumbo); (illustrations) . . 91 
Whitefish, planked (illustration).. . . 91 

White sea perch (illus f ration) 98 

Whole loin, the (table) 25 

Wiener schnitzels 62 

Wild rice 78 

William Penn Hotel, Pittsburgh, 

kitchen 155 

Woodruff Inn, Joliet, kitchen plan.. 149 
Wounds, treatment of 90 

Yearling or fall lambs 58 

Yearling lamb (diagram) 59 

Yearling lamb, model cuts of (illus.) 58 

Yellow perch (illustration) 95 

Young chicken prepared for roasting 
(illustration) 72 




The Hotel Monthly Handbooks 

Also other technical books, forming a selected library of the 
standard works of reference for the hotel and catering trades 



I rectite so many letters of inquiry regarding culinary and 
other books of instructive value for hotel and catering trades 
that I hare prepared this catalog for the purpose of answering 
in concise manner a large number of these requests for informa- 
tion. The books herein described are the ones that hare secured 
recognition from fitness and service they hare rendered to those 
tcho hare consulted their pages. Taken as a whole, the list 
of books herewith described forms a fairly complete hotel ~ 
library. 

A Selection of Dishes ami the Chefs Reminder: 
The hook that has met with the largest sale arid is in most 
demaud from managers, stewards and cooks is "A Selection 
of Dishes and the Chefs Reminder."' by Chas. Fellows. 
This book is in vest pocket form, the leaf ; '-_- by c 1 ; inches. 
220 padres, and is the most complete and serviceable pocket 
reference book to culinary matters that has ever been 
published. It is not a cook book, in the general sense of 
the word, but is full of ideas and suggestions regarding bill- 
of-fare dishes. Chapters are devoted to entrees of all kinds. 
salads, soups, consommes, fish and their sauce- ;es in 

general, garnishes, fancy potatoes, miscellaneous recipes, 
hiuts to cooks and stewards, suggestions for break Fas 
lunch and supper dishes, chafing dish cookery, rueuus. and 
a pronouncing glossary of culinary terms. Hundreds of the 
dishes listed are given with their bill-of-fare names only, 
as the cooks understand the basic work in preparing the 
dishes, and the sauces and garnishes are treated separately, 
with information as to their component parts. Thousands 
of men who possess a copy of this book say it is their greatest 
help. The book is printed on bond paper and bound in 
flexible leather cover. Price. $1. 

The Culinary Handbook, by Chas Fellows, is an 
elaboration of his "Selection of Dishes and Chefs Reminder." 
and presents in concise form information regarding the 
preparation and service of nearly 4,00C different bill-of-fare 
dishes: also civesrnuch information of encyclopedic uature re- 
garding foods of all kinds. Quick reference to every dish de- 
scribed is facilitated with an index of 39 columns arranged in 
alphabetical order, and cross indexed, so that no matter what 
one is looking for. all he has to do is to find the initial letter 
and under it. in alphabetical order, for second, third and fourth 
letters, etc.. the article wanted, with pace on which i: is 
found. Referring, for instance, to a sauce of any particular 
kind: Find the word Sauce in the index, and under it will 
be found in alphabetical order 149 different sauces: and under 
Salads. 71 different kinds, exclusive of the variations in 
making. Under head of Sausage there are 4 "■> different 
kinds described, with directions for making as well as cook- 
ing and serving. In fact, the sau>age information in this 
book is more complete than in any other published. The 
book contains 190 paces, the leaf 6 by inches, the paper 
a strong white bond, bound in stout leather cover. Trice - 

Felloes" Menu Maker is the only book devoted to this 
branch of the catering business, and is the last of the suc- 
cessful ready reference books compiled by Chas. Fellows, 
author of "' V Selection of Dishes and the Chefs Reminder,*' 
and "The Culinary Handbook." In this book Mr. Fellows 
has compiled in concise form thousands of succestions for 
da'ly chances on the biUs-of-fare. both American and Euro- 
pean plan, for breakfast, luncheon and dinner cards, and so 
arranged as to give popular chances from day to day to 
give acceptable variety. These chances include soups. 
fish, boOdes, entrees, roasts, and specials. In their presenta- 
tion he starts with typical bi!ls-offare. and the changes are 
such as might be made in these bills from day to dav . Also 
he has presented a chapter entitled "Suggestions for Specials 
for the Day." in which the dishes are priced, and underlined 
with brief information regarding their composition. Also. 
he submits several sample menus for business lunches. 



banquets, and small party dinners, and one very serviceable 
feature of the book is a Ust of the most popular disbe- 
soups, fish, boiled meats, roasts and entrees. The book is 
supplemented «ith 110 pages of sample menus and bills- 
re. several of them photographic reproductions^ and 
representing the cards of hotels and restaurants of both first 
and seeoud class, lunch rooms, transportation catering 
menus, club menus, wiue list, caterer's Ust. and se - 
illustrations of glass, china and silverwares and banquet 
scenes. The book is thoroughly indexed. It is printed on 
a fine quality of paper, the \ - y 9 inches, and the cover 

of cold cloth. Price $2. 

The Lunch Room. b> Paul Richards, is the newest of 
the culinary books and bids fair to become one of the most 
popular ever produced. In writing this book Mr. Richards 
covered all bra-aches of the busiuess. In its i - s be 
found lunch room plaus: illustrations of equipmeut; chapters 
on management, salesmanship and bookkeeping - igg ~:ions 
for bills-of-fare: reproduction of articles from technical 
journals relating to lunch room, aud about 2.000 recipes 
for lunch room dishes. It is a complete guide to making 
and marketing lunch room foods and hex - - The book 
is of particular value, not alone to those who operate lunch 
rooms, but to hotelkeepers who may consider the advis- 
ability of putting in a lunch room in connection with their 
business: a departure that has become ver> general since 
so r. .ntry hotels are ehanciuc to modified American 

or European plan, the lunch room being the stepping stone 
to the change. The book is printed on fine quality of paper 
and strongly bound. Price $2 

Paul Richards' Pastry Book is the title in brief of "Paul 
Richards' Rook of Breads. Cakes. P - - lees a..d Sweet- 
meats. Especially Adapted for Hotel and C _ Pur- 
poses." The author is known as one of the most skillful 
all around bakers, pastry cooks and confectioners in America. 
and has demonstrated the quality of his work in leading 
hotels, both east and west. In writing this book he took 
particular pains to have the recipes reliable and worded 
in such simple fashion that all who read them may readily 
understand and w ork from them. The book is in sev en 
parts. Part 1 is devoted to fruit jellies and preserves; 
jams, jellies, compotes and syrups: preserved crushed fruits 
for sherbets and ices: preserving pie fruits: s 
decrees: colors. Part 11. pastry and pie mak - - - 
fillings: pastry creams, patty cases, tar - 
icings: P irt 111. cake baking: Part IV, puddings and sauces: 
Part V. ice creams, ices, punches, etc; Par; VI, br- 
rolls, buns, etc.: Part "\ 11. candj making iscc'.'.ai 
recipes: bread economies in hotel: caterer's price list. 
recipes are readily found with the columns i \ 
and cross index in the back of the book, this index forming 
in itself a complete d ir e cto ry, so to speak, of br 

9 Had -*ugar foods. The book is printed O) S eh linen 
ledger paper, the pa- inches. 168 pages, hand sewed. 
strongly bound in buff leather. Price. ?c. 

••Pastr> for the Restaurant." by Paul Richa - 
V collection of recipes compiled especially for hotels of the 
European plan, in particular, portion pieces to sell for a 
price. French pastry i< featured. The I rae- 
ticallv ev er> pastry and dessert dish that can consistently 
be placed on an i la carte bill of fare les breads, r s 
cakes, pies, puddings, jams, ices and spe - The book 
is indexed and SB indexed, affordr . J reference. 
It is in vest pocket form, printed on bond paper, bound iu 
flexible leather, price $1.00. 

The Book of Sauces, b> C. Herman Senn. author of Prac- 
tical Gastronomy and the Twentieth C.enturv I 
Book. Mr. Senn has compiled something like five hundred 
recipes for sauces of all kinds, meat, poultry, game. fish, 
vegetable and fruits, and put into one volume more informa- 
tion reszardinc sauces and how to make and use them than 



THE HOTEL. MONTHLY HANDBOOK SERIES AND OTHER TECHNICAL, BOORS 



has ever before been printed within the covers of a single 
book. Mr. Senn is a world-famous culinary author, and 
this book of sauces, the latest of his productions, will serve 
to standardize sauce making the world over. The book is 
put up in compact form for carrying in the pocket. It is 
128 pages, indexed and cross indexed so as to be most useful 
for ready reference. It is printed on bond paper, bound in 
flexible leather. Price $1. 

The Vest Pocket Pastry Book, by John E. Meister, 
easily leads all other pastry books in number of copies printed 
and sold. This little book, measuring only 3 by 63^ inches, 
and weighing only 3 ounces, contains 500 recipes, including 
57 for hot puddings, pudding sauces, etc.; 77 for cold pud- 
dings, side dishes, jellies, etc.; 90 for ice creams, water ices, 
punches, etc.; 68 for pastes, patties, pies, tarts, etc.; 77 for 
cake; 17 for icings, colorings, sugars, etc.; 60 for bread, rolls, 
yeast raised cakes, griddle cakes, etc.; as well as 55 miscel- 
laneous recipes. Mr. Meister wrote this book at the request 
of the editor of the Hotel Monthly, who had heard his work 
highly complimented by his employers, who said they 
believed him to have no superior as a first-class workman. 
The recipes, while given in few words, yet are easily under- 
standable, and have helped thousands of bakers to improve 
their work. The book is cleverly indexed so that any 
recipe can be found in a few seconds. This book is printed 
on bond paper; bound in flexible leather. Price $1. 

The Vest Pocket Vegetable Book, by Ghas. G. Moore, 
has done more to popularize the cooking and serving of 
vegetables in hotels and restaurants than any other book 
ever published. It was written with this idea. The author 
took particular pains to make this little volume a classic 
and his masterpiece, and he succeeded remarkably well. 
Into 120 pages he has condensed more information regarding 
the history, cultivation, nutritive qualities, and approved 
forms of cooking and serving vegetables than can be found 
in any other book, no matter how large; and it has been 
demonstrated to be a book without mistakes. Recipes 
for soups, sauces, garnish ings and salads supplement the 
general recipes. There are 78 ways of preparing potatoes, 
19 of mushrooms, 19 of onions, 15 of cabbage, etc., 27 of 
beans, 15 of rice, 25 of tomatoes, and others in number in 
proportion to their importance. The vegetables are given 
with their English names and the French and German 
translations. The recipes are indexed with 15 columns, 
alphabetically arranged. The book is printed on bond 
paper, the leaf 3 by 63^ inches, and strongly bound in 
flexible leather. Price $1. 

The Fish and Oyster Book, by Leon Kientz, for many 
years chef of Rector's (the noted sea foods restaurant in 
Chicago), is a handy vest pocket volume, the leaf measuring 
3 by 0> l /2 inches. In this book Mr. Kientz tells in concise 
manner how to cook practically every kind of fish that is 
brought to the American market; and not only explains the 
method of cooking, but also the making of the sauces and 
the manner of service. Every recipe is given with its bill- 
of-fare name in English and its translation into the French. 
The recipes include also such dishes as frogs' legs, all kinds 
of shell (ish, snails, terrapin, and the fish forcemeats. Also 
there is an appendix with specimen fish and oyster house 
luncheon and dinner menus, with and without wines. The 
book is 150 pages, indexed, printed on bond paper, bound 
in flexible leather. Price $1. 

Vachon's Economical Soups and Entrees, by Joseph 
Vachon, was written in response to a demand for a book 
that would tell how to prepare savory dishes from inexpen- 
sive materials at small cost; and, in particular, how to use 
up leftovers; by which is meant good cooked foods not served 
at a previous meal, and which have not in any way lost their 
marketable value in the sense of deterioration of quality, 
but which can be served in hotel or restaurant in the same 
appetizing manner that leftovers are served in well-to-do 
families. Mr. VacDOTI was selected to write t his book because 
of liis reputation as an economical chef. He was for many 
years employed as chef in the Transit House in the Union 
Stock Yards, a house widely known for its good table, and the 
hearty, wholesome foods served there on the American plan 
with meals at ."() cents. In this book he has given recipes 
in particular for meat entrees of the savory order, stews, 
pies and Croquettes, hash, salads, and fried meals. The 

soups include creams, broths, bouillons, chowders, purees, 
pepper-pots, and the like. It is two books in one, separately 



indexed, printed on bond paper, the leaf is 3 by 7 inches, 
bound in flexible leather. Price $1. 

Tellman's Practical Hotel Steward (second edition, 
revised and enlarged, and adapted for American and Euro- 
pean plan): The duties of the modern hotel steward are 
concisely set forth in "The Practical Hotel Steward," by 
John Tellman, for many years of the Planters' and Jefferson 
Hotels in St. Louis. Mr. Tellman is a thoroughly practical 
man, known as a good organizer, an executive, a master of 
his calling. He is a man more of action than of words; a 
logical thinker, with the ability to express himself clearly. 
The short, pithy sentences in his book and the large amount 
of information boiled down into small space has made it 
of particular value, not alone for stewards, but managers. 
The book contains lists for kitchen equipment for different 
sized houses, market lists, chapters on managing the help 
buying, the care of meats, bills-of-fare, banquets, carving and 
party catering; also an exhaustive chapter on "wines of the 
world" and a chapter on wine room bookkeeping. In his 
preface Mr. Tellmann writes: "This book is written from 
the standpoint of one who has had years of practical expe- 
rience, and reflects what, in his judgment, are the best meth- 
ods for a steward to follow. The author does not claim to be 
infallible, or that his methods are better than those of many 
others; but he believes them to contain the elements of 
success." The new edition contains articles on accounting 
that are of special value. Price $2.00. 

Tellman's Pocket Prices Reference Book, ruled to 
show the brand, minimum and maximum price, size packages 
and quantity purchased of about a thousand articles the 
steward usually buys, including foods, beverages, and equip- 
ment; these all indexed. It also contains tables to show 
house count, per capita, and average cost of the various 
articles for comparative use. Book is pocket size, printed 
on bond paper, bound in leather. Price $1.00. 

Clifford M. Lewis' "American Plan Check System" 

is the only book of its kind, and is destined to serve a very 
useful purpose in stopping waste and increasing profits. The 
system has demonstrated its effectiveness in hotels con- 
ducted by Mr. Lewis during the last seven years. It has 
brought about a great saving, both in store room issues and 
dining room service, and provided not only a check between 
dining room and kitchen, but also between front office and 
dining room. The book is illustrated with 20 full page 
illustrations, including forms of checks for different require- 
ments, waiters' record sheets, bills of fare with illustrations 
of tally of orders and totals of each dish served, and rulings 
for extra, cash, and complimentary meal tickets and for 
service checks. The text matter explains very thoroughly 
the workings of the system. Price $1.00. 

Applegreen's Bar Book, by John Applegreen, formerly 
of Kinsley's, Chicago, and Holland House, New York, is a 
standard work on high class mixed drinks. The recipes 
oecupy 56 pages of the book, and include 53 cocktails, 15 
sours, 21 punches, 24 fizzes, 11 rickeys, 4 Collinses, 10 
toddies, 6 coolers, 39 hot drinks, 14 highballs, 19 party 
drinks, 11 juleps and smashes, 14 temperance drinks, 6 
daisies, 7 frappes, and 50 miscellaneous drinks, including ap- 
petizers, bracers, headache mixtures, flips, invigoratora, 
brain dusters, and the like. The book is useful for the 
hotel, club, or home, and illustrated with suggestions for 
buffet glassware. It is indexed, printed on linen paper, 
bound in flexible leather. Price $1.00. 

Drinks, by Jacques Straub, wine steward of The Black- 
stone, Chicago, is the latest in hand books for the buffet. 
It contains 700 recipes for alcoholic and non-alcoholic 
beverages, including 400 cocktails. The author has pre- 
faced the recipes with a chapter on "The, Therapeutic Values 
of Wines"; also illustrates appropriate glassware. The 
book is adapted for the hotel, club, home and wherever 
wholesome mixed drinks are served. It is 96 pages, printed 
on bond paper, bound in flexible leather. Price $1.00. 

The American Waiter, by John B. Goins, is the only 
published book that treats intelligently of the waiter's work 
from bus boy to head waiter, for both hotel and restaurant 
requirements. The author has just completed Part 2 of 
this book, the new part devoted largely to European plan 
service, and, combined with Part 1, which is devoted largely 
to American plan service, has rounded out a manual which is 
very valuable to those who would give table service of the 



THE HOTEL MONTHLY HANDBOOK SERIES AND OTHER TECHNICAL BOOKS 



kind suited for the average hotel. Interspersed in the book 
are chapters on the care of table wares, salad making, table 
setting, carving, dishing up, handling of sea foods, building 
of banquet tables, and many other useful items of infor- 
mation. The book, profusely illustrated, is vest pocket 
size, printed on bond paper, bound in flexible leather. 
Price $1.00. 

The Frank E. Miller Monthly Wages Table Book 
for 28, 30, and 31-day months is in form of three wax en- 
graved sheets bound into a leather cover. The tables are 
from $10 to $100 a month. Price, on bond paper, 75 cents; 
on linen $1.00. 

Preston's Calculator is the old standard, based on J^ 
days at so much per day, or week, or month of thirty days, 
or fraction thereof. The tables range upward from 50 cents 
to $10 per da\ ; from $2.50 to $50 per week; and from $5 
to $150 per month. Price 50 cents. 

The Rankin Calculating Tables, 10 cents. 

Clarenbach System of Hotel Accounting. 
The Pattison Loose Leaf and Card System for Hotel 
Front Office Bookkeeping. 

The only published and copyrighted books on hotel ac- 
counting are those by Ernst Clarenbach and Wm. C. Pattison. 

Mr. Clarenbach's book is intended mainly for the country 
hotel of American plan, and is a rounded system of book- 
keeping for this kind of hotel, taking in the front office ac- 
counting, the steward's books and private office and in- 
ventory books, together with requisition forms, and a 
system of accounting for the bar and wine room and the 
cigar reserve stock and cigar stand. Mr. Clarenbach's 
system is also adaptable for hotels of European plan by 
slight changes easily made. 

Mr. Pattison's book deals almost entirely with the front 
office accounting, and in particular for hotels of European 
plan of any size, and is virtually an exposition of the concise 
and thoroughly practical system installed by him in the Fort 
Pitt Hotel, of Pittsburgh, of which he is assistant manager. 
Mr. Pattison, in addition to taking care of the transient 
accounts from the cashier to the private office, systematizes 
the work of the room clerk, the cashier, the mail clerk, pack- 
age clerk, and auditor, and in this he has produced a reliable 
and satisfactory system that works to a charm. Both 
books contain information that many a hotel man would 
pay hundreds of dollars to possess, if he knew the methods 
there explained could be adapted to advantage to his par- 
ticular hotel. Bookkeeping is but little understood by the 
average hotelkeeper, and these books have already done a 
great missionary work in promoting systems of accounting 
and for keeping track of things. The Clarenbach book sells 
for $3.00 and the Pattison book is also $3.00. 

Hospitality, by John McGovern. Price $1.00. 

The Hotel Butcher, Garde Manger & Carver. Price $2. 

The Whitehead Cook Books. 

The cook books that have done more toward improving the 
cooking in country hotels throughout America in the last thirty 
years than all others together are those written by Jessup White- 
head. They were first published in serial form in the columns 
of the Daily National Hotel Reporter of Chicago. Mr. White- 
head was a remarkable man. In addition to being an all- 
round cook he was a well read man, and could express himself 
in clear\, simple English better than the average college graduate. 
He traveled far and wide, and got his cooking experience under 
every possible condition to fit him for the writing of cook books. 
He worked in hotels great and small, first-class and second-class, 
on steamships, in logging camps, in summer hotels, for hunting 
and fishing parties, and for explorers; and he learned all the 
tricks of cooking with and without the customary utensils; 
and he gained an experience so large and varied, especially in 
the line of making the best of what was to hand, that his name 
has been authority in the culinary world ever since he began 
to write his books. He made it a rule not to print any recipe 
unless he had first tried it and proved its reliability. When he 
had so proved a recipe for any subject that recipe was filed 
away to go into his book, and it got there; and the recipe in the 
book is so plain as to detail that one who is not a cook can work 
from it and produce a satisfactory dish. 

Whitehead's American Pastry Cook: Mr. Whitehead 
was trained as a pastry cook and baker in his younger days, 
and his first book was "The American Pastry Cook." The 



quantities of the recipes are calculated on the average 
orders of about fifty persons choosing from a bill-of-fare. 
This book also contains chapters on salads and cold meat 
dishes. In his introduction to the book Mr. Whitehead says: 
"In many of the more important matters, such as puff paste, 
bread and rolls, cakes, ices, creams, and pie mixtures, and 
in cold meat dishes, corned beef management and salads, 
the standard of one pound or quart used will be found to 
make the recipes equally useful for private families, and the 
trouble of dividing the larger quantities in other cases will 
probably be fully repaid by the simple conciseness of the 
directions, the absence of all technical jargon, and the pro- 
fessional knowledge of the art of cookery imparted in every 
page. The book is unique also in having all the articles 
directed to be made graded in regard to cost, to meet the 
requirements both of those who do cooking for pleasure and 
those who are concerned in cooking for profit." Price $2. 

Whitehead's Hotel Meat Cooking: His next book was 
"Hotel Meat Cooking," comprising hotel and restaurant 
fish and oyster cooking; how to cut meats; and soups, entrees 
and bills-of-fare. Several thousand copies of this book 
have been printed and sold, and thousands of hotelkeepers 
and caterers acknowledge a great measure of their success 
due to the influence of this book, which teaches the careful 
handling of foods, the economical use of foods, the necessity 
of cleanliness in all departments of the kitchen, and presents 
many suggestions for bill-of-fare dishes that can be made 
from leftovers and served at a profit' also suggestions for 
using up all parts of the carcass that are good for food. The 
book is interspersed with anecdotes and snappy little 
editorials scintillating with wit and wisdom. Price $2. 

Whitehead's The Steward's Handbook: Mr. White- 
head's third book was written for stewards and called "The 
Steward's Handbook." For many years it was the only 
book in print that instructed in the steward's duties and 
outlined the management of the back part of the house; and 
today there is no other book that occupies the peculiar field 
that this one does. Several pages are devoted to illustrations 
of requisition blanks, market sheets, storeroom issue book, 
storeroom stock book, and sample menus and bills-of-fare. 
It tells of the head waiter's duties, of club and party catering, 
and of catering extraordinary. Also there is a profusely il- 
lustrated chapter on napkin folding; 250 pages of the book 
are devoted to "Whitehead's Dictionary of Dishes and 
Culinary Terms and Specialties," and this dictionary of 
dishes is today one of the most serviceable works of reference 
for caterers in the world. Price $3. 

Whitehead's Cooking for Profit: The most prolific 
of the Whitehead cook books is his "Cooking for Profit." 
This book filled a long-felt want for the small hotel, restau- 
rant and lunch room, and the boarding house. The author, 
when writing it, put himself in the position of the man or 
woman who had "to count the cost" very carefully in all 
matters of table supply, both meat and pastry; the manage- 
ment of food on hand; also to see that nothing is wasted. 
170 pages of this book comprise a diary of the author during 
eight weeks employed at a small summer hotel; and he tells 
in language from the heart the trials and tribulations of 
landlord and cook in providing three meals a day under ad- 
verse conditions; as supplies not arriving on time, trouble 
with the help, with boarders, adverse weather conditions, 
and the ingenious devices adopted from necessity for storing 
and preserving meats, vegetables, fruits, and dairy foods. 
Occasionally the pages are illumined with broad smiles, as 
when there has been a lucky haul of fish, or the social parties 
are successful, or when business is rushing and everybody 
happy. The author gets down to hard pan when he itemizes 
how meals are prepared for fourteen, or sixteen, or twenty 
cents per capita. It is not like reading a cook book; it is 
more interesting, more like a faithful portrayal of human 
nature between the kitchen and the dining room. We have 
heard prominent stewards, as, for instance, George Fulwell 
when he was at the Bates House, in Indianapolis, say that 
he got more good out of Whitehead's Cooking for Profit than 
from any other book in his big libr ary. Price $3.00. 

Whitehead's Family Cook Book is composed of recipes 
contributed to the Chicago Herald. Like his other books, 
this family book has the merit of re liability. Price $1.50. 

Ranhofer's Epicurean: The king of cook books is "The 
Epicurean," by Charles Ranhofer, of Delmonico's. This 



THE HOTEL MONTHLY HAXDBOOK SERIES ^..VI> OTHER TECHNICAL BOOKS 



book is 1.200 pages, and -weighs about ten pounds. It is 
the most extensive, the most complete, the most readable, the 
most attractive, and the best all-around cook book that has 
ever been published. The first chapter is devoted to table 
service, with instruction in menu-making and the care and 
service of "wines, the decoration of the table, the fixing of 
the sideboard, complete dining room instructions for the 
service of course dinners. French and Russian service is 
explained. There are lists of china, glass, and silver, etc.; 
a table of supplies in which the French and English names 
are eiven, and a market fist. Then follows 144 pages of 
menus for breakfasts, luncheons, dinners, buffet or standing 
suppers, collations, hunting parties, garden parties, dancing 
parties, etc. All dishes in these menus are numbered to con- 
form with recipes for them in the body of the book. There 
is a chapter on elementary methods, in which even the 
drudgery work in the kitchen is explained, and all the work 
done by apprentices in the early stages of hotel kitchen 
work. The chapter on kitchen utensils is very full, every 
utensd illustrated. Then come the recipes: 200 soups, 251 
sauces, 133 garnishes, 191 side dishes, 101 shell fish, 21S fish, 
165 beef. 165 veal, 75 mutton, 109 lamb, 4S pork. 224 poultry, 
163 game, 198 miscellaneous entrees, 267 salads, 172 veg- 
etables, 100 eggs, 37 farinaceous foods, 233 sweet entrees, 
170 cakes, 17 breads, 1S9 ices and iced drinks, 90 con- 
fectionery, and several illustrations of centerpieces. There 
is an exhaustive chapter on wines, several recipes for mixed 
drinks, and 64 pages devoted to a collection of Delmonico 
menus. The index occupies 44 double-column pages. There 
are more than S00 illustrations. A most excellent feature 
of The Epicurean is that every recipe in it appears under a 
good honest English name, alongside of which is the trans- 
lation of it into French. The book is marketed in two bind- 
inss, the cloth (which is very good and the most popular), 
; hal f Russ : a $10. 

Franco-American Cookery Book: The high-class cooks 
of America have great respect for the Franco-American 
Cookery Book, by Felix Deliee, of New York. The feature 
that particularly pleases in this book is that it contains a 
menu for every day in the year, 365 in all; the dishes for 
each menu appropriate for the season, and the recipes for 
the dishes printed in large, clear type immediately following 
each menu. Another good feature is that the dishes are 
given their English name; consequently are more under- 
standable than those of the hifalutin books that indicate a 
dish that cannot be made except under a French name. 
There are several illustrations and a complete index. The 
recipes are based on sufficient for eight persons, and may be 
reduced or increased at will. Price S3. 50. 

The International Cook Book, by Filippini, published 
in 1907 for $4. SO, is now issued at the popular price of one 
dollar. The International is a book of 1.000 pages, and mod- 
eled somewhat after the Franco-American, previously 
described, in which the menus are given and recipes for the 
dishes that follow the menus. There are separate break- 
fast, luncheon and dinner menus for 365 days. It contains 
187 recipes for beef dishes, 22 for breads, rolls, etc., 8 for 
butter, 23 for cereals, 603 for desserts in general, 406 eggs, 
5S0 Gsh, 49 game, 23 hors d'ceuvres, 91 lamb, 79 mutton, 58 
pork, 168 poultry, etc., 64 salads, 12 sandwiches, 91 sauces, 
405 soups, 95 veal, and 339 recipes for vegetables. A sup- 
plementary chapter in this book contains more recipes from 
foreign countries acquired by Mr. Filippini in his travels. 
The new edition of 1,059 pages is printed from the same 
plates exactly as the more expensive edition. Price $1.00. 

A Guide to Modern Cookery, by A. Escoffier, of the 
Carlton Hotel. London, is the newest of the modern cook 
books. Mr. F.^coffier ranks very high in his profession and 
has gained fame from his mastery of the culinary art. His 
book is ■ ges, 2.973 recipes; is printed in large clear 

type, and reflects only that which is first-class. It is in- 
dexed both for recipe number and pace number. Price $4.00. 

The Waldorf Cook Book. Price $2.50. 

.1 .<>.! Vulu*-«*. by Edwin A. Locke, A.M., M.D., instructor 
in medicine, Harvard medical school. The best book for the 
steward or caterer who would school himself on food values. 
The content s i m hide Introductory chapter of 24 pages, follow- 
ed with four t able*: 1. Equivalents of weights and measures; 
2. Prepared foods, edible portion; 3, Alcoholic beverages; 4, 
Average chemical composition of American foods; these sup- 
plemented with a comprehensive index. Price $1.25. 



Food, What It Is and Does, by Edith Greer. Profusely 
illustrated. Price $1.25. 

The Something Different Dish, by Marion H. Neil. 
A collection of recipes for out-of-the-ordinary dishes. 40 
illustrations. Price 50 cents. 

Clubs and Their Management, by Francis W. Pixley, 
of London, England. An exposition of club management 
and accounting as generally obtains in Europe. Price $2.50. 

Dainty Dishes, by Adolphe Meyer, the noted New York 
chef and caterer, is devoted to hors d'ceuvres and savories 
(hot and cold'i, fish and shellfish, entrees, vegetables, eggs 
and cheese dishes. A very handy book for the high-class 
chef who would be informed on the newer dainties. Price $1. 

The American Salad Book, by De Loup, is the most 
important woik of this kind in print. It covers salads of 
all kinds — meat, fish, vegetable, flower and fruit — condi- 
ments, dressings and sauces. Price 81.00. 

Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing Dish Dainties, by 

Janet McKenzie Hill, of the Boston Cooking School, is a 
valuable book, particularly from its illustrations, showing 
the appearance of the dishes ready for service and daintily 
garnished. The book is a classic of its kind; and while 
written for family use, has found quite a large sale with 
hotels, restaurants, clubs and caterers. Price $1.50. 

The Book of Entrees (illustrated), by Janet McKenzie 
Hill. Price $1.50. 

Recipes and Menus for Fifty, as used in the school of 
domestic science of the Boston Y.W.C. A. Price $1.50. 

Recherche Luncheon and Dinner Sweets, Senn, $1.25. 

Meals Without Meat, or Meatless Fare Cookery , Senn, 

price 50 cts. 

Baker's Bread, by Paul Richards, author of "Paul 
Richards' Pastry Book." is a handy volume of 114 pages, 
every page containing reliable information upon the subject 
treated. Hundreds of recipes are given, including for buns 
and rusks, coffee cakes, doughnuts, muffins and griddle 
cakes; hearth baked, French, home-made, rye, Vienna and 
special breads; individual breads and rolls; zwiebach and 
stollen; yeasts and their use; also a valuable chapter on 
flours, especially as regards testing and storage. The leaf 
is 5 by ~V 2 inches, bound in cloth. Price $1.00. 

Ice Cream and Cakes, by an American, is a popular 
book. It contains nearly 500 recipes. Price$ 1.50. 

Huling's American Candy Maker is generally acknowl- 
edged to be the best book of its kind. The author is a 
practical candy maker, who has the ability to express him- 
self clearly to workmen, so that his instructions can be 
easily followed. 325 pages, 7 by 5 inches. Price $5. 

The Art of Baking and Ornamental Confectionery, 

by Herman Hueg, printed in one book in the English and 
German languages, is a standard and popular work. It 
contains several illustrations of designs for cakes, borders, 
pyramids and centerpieces. Price $2.50. 

Hueg'g Art of Baking, Condensed, is a small paper- 
covered book that sells for 50 cents. 

Carving and Serving, by Mrs. Lincoln. Price 75 cents. 

Seurre's Practical Cookery Guide. Price $2.00. 



Canning, Preserving and Pickling, by Marion H. Neil. 
Includes canning fruits and vegetables, jellies, jams, pre- 
serves and conserves; pickling; chutneys, catsups and 
relishes, beverages, vinegars and syrups. Twelve illustra- 
tions made from photographs. Price $1.15. 

Preserving and Picklinp: by Gesine Lemcke. PriceS 1. 



Universal Dictionary of Menus: One of the most 
serviceable books for translations. It is printed in Switzer- 
land and imported by the Hotel Monthly. Contains the 
French, English and German translations of bill-of-fare 
dishes in parallel columns. Is particularly serviceable for 
preparing bills-of-fare. Price 75 cents. 

Remco's Manual of Apartment House Service is of 

value to hotelkeepers for the information it gives regarding 
the back part of the house, in particular the engineers' and 
firemen's departments; and elevator men's janitors, 
porters' and housemen's work. Also contains rules for the 
help, methods of getting rid of vermin, etc. Price $1.00. 



THE HOTEL MO.MHLT HAXDBOOK SERIES A\D OTHER TECHXICAL ROOKS 



Up-to-Date Waitress, by Janet McK. Hill. Price $1.50. 



A Guide to Hotel Housekeeping, by Mary E. Palmer. 
Price SI. 00. 



The Chinese-Japanese Cook Book, by Sarah Bosse 
and Onoto Watanna. a collection of Chinese and Japanese 
dishes of the kind to appeal to Western palates; all of 
them authentic. Chop suey featured. Price 50 cents. 

Institution Recipes, by Emma Smedley. Intended 
primarily for use in schools, colleges, hospitals, and other 
institutions. Price SI. 25. 



The New England Cook Book, by Helen S. Wright. 
A compilation of famous New England dishes. Price $1.50. 

Fillippini's One Hundred Ways of Cooking Eggs. 
Price 50 cents. 



The American Cook Book, by Janet McKenzie Hill. 
Price S1.00. 

The Blue Grass Cook Book. A collection of Kentucky 
dishes typical of those by colored co oks. Price SI. 50. 

Quotations for Occasions has its selections subdivided 
under a hundred or more heads so that the right one for the 
right course or subject can be quickly found. Price $1.50. 



The Grocers' Encyclopedia, the most complete and 
best illustrated work on foods ever produced. 750 pages, 
8x11 inches. An invaluable book of reference for the 
manager, steward and chef. Price $10.00. 



Fancy Drinks and Popular Beverages, by William 
Schmidt, a famous New York barman known as 'The 
Only William." presents 500 recipes of the kind prepared 
only in first-class places. Price, paper cover, 50 cents. 



Jerry Thomas' Bartender's Guide. Price 50 cents in 
paper, 75 cents in cloth cover. 



Modern American Drinks, by Kappeler. Price $1.00. 



The Wine Steward's Manual, a series of essays on 
wines and their handling. Price $1.00. 



The Dispenser's Formulary or Soda Water Guide. 

A practical handbook for soda fountain operators, consisting 
of over 2.000 tested formulas for soda fountain products, 
with complete information on fountain service, fountain 
standards, ice cream standards, and formulas, and luncheon- 
ette service, including an appendix of manufacturers' 
formulas, together with descriptive information of their 
fountain apparatus, sundries and supplies. Price $1.50. 

Senn's Culinary Books: C. Herman Senn, the foremost 
chef of Europe, is the author of twenty or more culinary books, 
■many of which have found quite a sale in the United States, 
and ten of them are handled regularly by the Hotel Monthly 
Book Department. 

Senn's Menu Book and Practical Gastronomy is 

the most popular culinary reference book published in 
Europe. It presents the bill of fare names of dishes in the 
French language, together with concise explanation in the 
English language. Many of the bill of fare names also are 
in the English. Several pages are devoted to sample menus, 
several to a culinary dictionary with pronunciation feature, 
and much information as to when foods are in season. 
Book is 320 pages. Price $2.00. 

The Art of the Table is devoted in the main to how to 
wait on table, how to fold serviettes, and how to carve. The 
chapter devoted to '"waiting" covers the waiters work very 
thoroughly, including the service of wines, the making of 
popular beverages and the care of the table wares. The 
chapter on carving and serviette folding are illustrated. 
Price $1.00. 

Recherche Hors d"Oeu\res and Sandwiches fills a 
long-felt want in suggestions for appetizers other than liquid. 
Price 60 cents. 

Potato Cookery. 300 recipes. Price 75 cents. 

Senn's Book of Salads is devoted to green and other 
vegetables, fish, poultry and game, meat and fruit salads. 
Price 50 cents. 



Senn's New Century Cook Book is over 1.000 pages. 
An all-around cook book. Profusely illustrated Price? 

Recherche Entrees. Illustrated with many photographs 
of made dishes. Price $1.25. 

Senn's Cooking in Stoneware. Price 50 cents. 

Senn's Eggs and Omelets. Price 75 cents. 

Senn's Cookery for Invalids and the Convalescent. 

Price 50 cents. 

Senn's Chafing Dish & Casserole Cookery. Price $1.21 

Foreign Books: The most important books printed in other 
than the E 1 :'..•' language that find a market in America are: 

Amerikanische Gerichte. by Alfred Fries, grill room 
chef of the Congress Hotel. Chicago. This book is entirely 
in German. Its principal mission is to give recipes for the 
newer dishes called for in high class places. Price $1.50. 

German National Cookery for American Kitchens, 
by Davadis, printed altogether in German. Also this book 
translated into English.) Each book sells for $1.25. 

Guide du Maitre d'Hotel. in French, a book for stewards 
and head waiters. Price $1.00. 

Genuine German Cooking and Baking, by Lena 
Meier, the recipes printed in German and English in parallel 
columns. Price $2.50. 

The John Willy Hotel Directory of the United 
States and Canada lists about 14.000 hotels, giving so far 
as obtainable, the plan and rate per day. This directory 
is published in April of each year. Price 50 cents. 

Hotel Monthly Back Numbers: The only reference 
library of hotel technical information is that to be found in 
the back numbers of The Hotel Monthly, dating from 1S93 
to the present time. The complete set of these books is 
not obtainable, but fourteen or more of the volumes are on 
sale. Bound up a year to the book. Price SI. 50 each. 



All books listed in this cata- 
log are forwarded by mail or 
express, charges prepaid, 
upon receipt of price. 

Remittance may be made 
in Post Ofhce Money Order, 
Express Monev Order, Bank 
Draft or Currency. 

Letters with currency en- 
closed should be registered. 

Address all orders, and 
make all money orders pay- 
able to 

JOHN WILLY 

443 S. Dearborn St., Chicago, 111. 



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ONE DOLLAR 

will bring 

The Hotel Monthly 

to you for 

ONE YEAR 



The Hotel Monthly is the leading 
technical journal of the hotel, 
restaurant and catering trades. 

Send 10 cents for sample copy or one 
dollar for one year's subscription. 

If back numbers are desired they 
can be procured in yearly volumes 
at $1.50 per volume. 



JOHN WILLY, Publisher 

443 South Dearborn Street, Chicago 







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